Just got home from a wonderful 10 day trip to Switzerland. We flew in and out of Geneva because the price was so much better than Zurich. It was no problem and the train station in Geneva is one floor down from the airport. We bought 15 day Swiss passes and were so glad we did….no rushing to get into an overcrowded train station to ask questions and wait in line….and there was ALWAYS a line. Only once did we need an additional ticket in the alps for our train ride and the machine did not work and we were instructed to tell the ticket checker when they came through to scan. We also were made aware that if you had a Swiss pass and got the 25% discount that there was no way to account for it if you bought the ticket online……do not understand that at all, as smart as the Swiss are…..which forces you to wait in the long train office lines or pay full price without using your Swiss pass discount! The Delta planes were crowded…..did not think they would be in September but each one was full….every seat! Wish Schiphol airport in Amsterdam could handle international traffic as well as Atlanta does…..they have so few agents sitting at the customs desks and don’t seem to care at all if you have 30 minutes only to get to your next gate in an unfamiliar airport. We barely made it after an almost 90 minute layover.
We trained to Wengen and stayed at Hotel Falken……would not do that again. It is VERY tired. It is also a steep uphill climb from the train station and was tiring after a day of hiking….we are 72 yeas old and walk 3 miles a day for years so we were ready…..and still it was a pull. Our room had a beautiful balcony view and we ate in the dining room each morning….the dining crew had to get your coffee for you (!) and you waited for the hot food to be cooked and replenished. A Rick Steves travel group was there and I was surprised. We chose to eat one morning at the Hotel Silberhorn in Wengen and its breakfast buffet was outstanding….like they were actually trying to make it special where the Falken crew had given up. You do spend more to be nestled in the alps and I get that…just be hospitable and offer extra care if you are going to run a hotel. Loved having the Coop nearby to buy hiking snacks and the main Street of Wengen was a delight. We were there for the Cow Parades and loved it….2 or 3 got frisky and ended up rushing the sidewalk and our filming had to stop for us to run. It’s always such fun to see. We also lucked up on the Chasteilet, Wengen’s yearly cheese festival with an Alphorn concert of 6 horns and a market to purchase the cheese. We brought home 2 huge blocks of raclette! Everyone was so friendly and accommodating. We had gorgeous weather except for 1 day where we trained to see Murren…..not much in the mist and rain…..and spent time in Interlaken enjoying a nice early dinner at the Hotel Victoria patio. The hikes, Luzern and more news to come!
Posted by
Last Frontier aka Alaska 🏔️
3560 posts
Great start! Can I request you add some space between paragraphs? Easier for old eyes to read.
Posted by
OP
Franklin, TN, USA
920 posts
My husband and I were surprised, even in September, at the crowds. We planned our schedule in Wengen to hikes everyday and saw so many more people than we did 3 years ago. I know that travel revenge has been noticed after Covid but to us it seemed unusually crowded. We scheduled the Saturday we were in the Alps to go to Grindelwald First…..WOW……..people EVERYWHERE. It was a constant line, even on and off the gondola and but the time you get to the top and are ready to hike you are exhausted from fighting the crowds. Maybe on a weekday things would have been better. Everyone was kind but just so many people all over the place. The Kleine Scheidegg hike from Mannlichen to Wengen continues to be our favorite though we once again took the hike that parallels the train tracks and it was way too steep. Got to figure out the one that evens out the last few miles. Our “raclette” meal on the balcony at Oberland Hotel in Lauterbrunnen was disappointing to my husband because he wanted raclette and they no longer serve it….though my carrot soup was wonderful. We always find the wash house in downtown Lauterbrunnen to be easy to use and people there so helpful. We seemed to spend more time in Interlaken this trip….loved sitting on a bench on the huge grassy field watching the paragliders come in and enjoyed a wonderful late afternoon sandwich in the Hotel Victoria. We also enjoyed wonderful gelato at Azzurra. The visit to Ladarach chocolate did not disappoint.
We spent one day taking a boat ride on Lake Brienz to Hotel Geissbach and ate on the patio of the hotel…..probably the highlight of our trip. Great service and food, incredible day and view! I would say this is a must if you are in this region. The boat ride, the lake, Geissbach Falls, the meal, the hotel……so relaxing and enjoyable.
I must put in a good word for Hotel Taverne in Interlaken. We had dinner there one night…..delicious meal and great atmosphere…..and the kind manager found my eyeglass case that had fallen out of my backpack and kept them for me to pick up the next day…….wonderful young man!
There is also a nice Victorinox store on the Main Street of Lauterbrunnen where you can get great help with any items you want to buy and take home.
On to Lucerne tomorrow!
The trains continue to delight…..so timely, always so easy, so steady…….I did study the SBB app before going and that helped tremendously! I was hoping for a little more room to spread out on our longer rides but the train was so crowded as well.
Posted by
Forest Grove, OR
11775 posts
Jane, Good to get your trip report. We are still in Lauterbrunnen, having arrive Sept 18. Crowds are starting to feel a little less onerous this week, although with many Swiss schools now on autumn holiday, I expect we’ll see things pick up. As you know, many of the crowd issues are in the stations, both train and cable car, and out on the trails it thins out as so many visitors don’t go very far from the transport.
We went to the Schilthorn for the first time in years as it was included in our pass. What a construction zone all of the stations are! Almost no one went up early when we did (9:30-ish) but by 11:30 the cable cars were delivering full loads. I continue to believe that getting out as early as possible is the best crowd-avoidance technique.
It’s been rainy on-and-off (absolute deluge overnight last night) so Interlaken has been a bit busy with shoppers. I think there area a lot of disappointed people with the marginal weather. Luckily it looks like the weekend will be better.
Posted by
OP
Franklin, TN, USA
920 posts
Laurel…take a boat and go enjoy lunch at Hotel Geissbach! A great day!!
Posted by
Forest Grove, OR
11775 posts
Jane, we like to walk to Giessbach, take the funicular up, and have lunch at the hotel , then return by boat. Hoping to fit that in in the coming days.
Posted by
OP
Franklin, TN, USA
920 posts
I had forgotten how much I love Lucerne and how beautiful it is. We stayed in Hotel Der Alpes, right on the river overlooking the chapel bridge…..our room had a patio and it was a delightful place to enjoy people watching. We ate at Mill’ Feuille, out on the patio and that was nice….good food. We were planning a day at Stoos Ridge the next day but were too tired and enjoyed walking around the city instead. TWO HANDS was recommended for breakfast so we ate there and were glad we did…..great food and service. We made sure to go by au Cachet and meet Susie and buy chocolates from her…..just so so good. We happened upon Cheese Barmettler and not only bought cheese and jams but ate a hot cheese pie…..SO GOOD. Dieter Keller Antiquitaten antique store was a treat to shop in. We celebrated 50 years of marriage on the balcony eating an incredible dinner meal at Hotel Balances. Julia was a wonderful waiter and took such good care of us. We caught the train the next day, headed to Geneva and stayed at Nash Hotel near the airport to get ready for our flight. Our only complaint were the jets lined up at JFK as we tried to leave there on time Friday night back to Nashville. It also seemed obvious to us that Amsterdam and CDG still cannot process customs traffic well…..they need to get more agents in the booths to hurry the lines along for people needing to catch connecting flights. So glad we were there in September with only 1 rainy day!
Posted by
Hustonville, KY
30 posts
I love your report. We will be there next year about the same dates. Do you recall the company you took the boat ride with on Lake Brienz? Was it a package type tour or on your own. it sounds like something we would enjoy. Our first trip to Switzerland.
Janet
Posted by
Chicago
3125 posts
Hi Jane!! Great trip report! Sorry to hear about the Sept. crowds. We were so lucky in Sept. 2021. My brother-in-law still talks about how it felt like we were the only ones there.
I know you’re going to the Netherlands next. Any plans for a return to Switzerland? :-)