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Stockholm, Copenhagen, and in between - Oct 5-20

Hi all - I am just back from a trip that started in Stockholm, wended southwest onto the west coast of Sweden, across Denmark almost to its west coast, and then finished in Copenhagen.

It was mostly places I have been before, with a couple of new ones thrown in. Lodging ranged from a private room in a hostel to a room that I got for half price that I could not have otherwise treated myself to.

Transportation was planes, trains, and automobiles (and a few ferries), along with a few city buses.

I flew Air France from CDG via Amsterdam to Stockholm. I had pre-purchased my Arlanda Express ticket into town from the airport, so hopped on a train just as it arrived.

Arriving in Stockholm, I walked the seven minutes from the central station to the Generator Hostel, where I stayed on my previous trip to Stockholm in August 2019. I paid 115€ a night for a private single. Having stayed in this hostel before, I knew it was clean and simple and comfortable and well placed for the train station. I would have loved to stay somewhere with more charm, but I was saving my lodging money for a couple of nicer places later in the trip.

I had four nights in Stockholm - there were some nice bright days and some rather rainy days. Plus some real wind. I hadn't thought to being gloves or a hat, nor my most rainproof jacket (I had a combination of a puffer vest with hood and light rain jacket with hood that I can wear together).

On my previous visit to Stockholm, I had visited the Vasa Museum and Skansen and gone out on a ferry for the day to the archipelago, so didn't need to do these this time.

You will think I am crazy, but living in France I get tired of French pastries. (!!!!) So I looooove cinnamon buns in Scandinavia, and I am pretty sure I had a cinnamon bun every single day of my trip. While in Stockholm, I went every morning to one of the Fabrique bakeries for breakfast. I have been addicted to their buns and their ambiance since going to one in London a few years ago. Yum yum yum.

Otherwise in Stockholm, I:
-- went to a concert at the concert hall. I looked online before my trip and found a quintet that was playing music from one Swedish composer and two French (one of whom had spent a lot of time in Sweden). It was a Sunday afternoon concert and was fun to experience both the building and the music.

-- finally visited the inside of the Stadshus by doing the guided tour. I had visited the outside and admired the architecture and its beautiful site, but it was a treat to see the inside, although the tour whisked us through earlier than I would have liked. Still, it was fun.

-- visited the Moderna Museet and saw their special exhibit on German Expressionism. I am not a modern art fan but can do this era, and my friend wanted to take me there. We didn't look at much of the permanent collection. And we had the fun of taking the ferry back to Gamla Stan as it would have been longer waiting for the bus.

-- had a fika with this friend at Socker Sucker which was fabulous.

-- had dinners with one friend T a hip Lebanese restaurant (it was a Saturday night and most of the other clients looked like they were headed to a night clubbing afterwards), but the food was delicious, Almaza

-- seafood from the west coast at Glupsk, where we ate crab rolls.

-- I had one exceedingly expensive dinner at a Japanese izakaya, Miyakodori. The quality was good, but since I wasn't in the mood to go all out, I should have chosen another place.

Otherwise - wandering the streets, taking photos, etc.

Posted by
10104 posts

Oh - and I went to check out the historic main library in Stockholm, but it turns out it is closed for renovations until 2027. And yes one day I went to check out the Hotel Esplanade since I was in its neighborhood and due to I think it was CWSocial's posts.

While sitting there taking a break in the courtyard, I noticed a small sign that said that this location actually used to be the locYion of the US Embassy, and also within the courtyard was a business at which Raoul Wallenberg worked - and that it was there that Wallenberg was put into contact with the US Embassy and thus started on his mission of rescuing Hungarian Jews, for which he was made a Righteous Among the Nations. Anyway the fact that this very courtyard that I had only stopped by because of my Forum friends actually was linked to so much history that is important to me kind of blew my mind ! I wished then that I had figured out and made time to follow the Wallenberg trail that they have set up. Now I know what I want to do next time.

Anyway, my last morning proved quite rainy and windy, and after checking out of the hostel and stashing my bags in a locker at the train station, I went to buy a more serious rain jacket.

Then went back to the train station and hopped on my nearly five-hour train from Stockholm to Lund. I didn't pony up for first class, but I did spend the extra money for second class "calm," and it felt pretty much like first class. This was the loveliest train ride I have been on in years. The train was modern and clean, I didn't have anybody right next to me, the autumn scenery outside was pleasant, and it was nice being inside and cozy warm when it was so gray and wet outside.

I arrived in Lund and had planned to stash my bags at the station and see a bit of the town, but the lockers were either full or not functioning (there were a lot of lockers out of order at Stockholm Central, too), and I didn't feel like adding NannyBag or whatever to my phone, so I just went back to the station and bought the ticket for the trip on to Helsingborg.

I got into Helsingborg maybe about 5:30 pm or so and walked about five minutes to my hotel, the Vault Hotel. I booked this through Booking.com and paid again about €115, but this was a much nicer room and included breakfast. The hotel, as the name indicates, used to be a bank, and is well sited on the far end of the square that features the town hall.

This was a one-night stay to position myself for moving on to the Swedish countryside the next day. I wandered around a bit and found some dinner. there were a lot of nice-looking restaurants, but most looked desperately empty. It was very weird. But I finally found a (Lebanese ? Turkish?) place that had lots of clients and served good food.

The next morning after enjoying the breakfast buffet, I caught a city bus up to an area in the north of town where the car rentals where. I figured it would be a bit of a haul to get to Sixt from where the bus dropped me off, but it literally dropped me right there, about a 30-second walk. I couldn't believe how easy it was !

I had paid practically nothing for a three-day rental even in adding some insurance, and had reserved the next-to- cheapest size of car, manual. When I got there, the guy gave me an Audi SUV, automatic !!! It was an absolute pleasure to drive.

Posted by
5314 posts

Wow, Kim, that is so interesting about the earlier location of the US Embassy - which would seem to explain the iron entry gates to the courtyard - and its connection to Wallenberg and his mission to rescue Hungarian Jews. As I blasted in and out of the hotel each day, I completely missed seeing that sign. I'm glad that you mentioned it so that I can seek it out next time I visit Stockholm.

I look forward to reading the rest of your report and taking notes for that next visit!

Posted by
4727 posts

Waiting for the next installments! But, after a 5 day trip a few years ago, I have seen none of the things you did in Stockholm this trip - so, like CW, I am adding to my “next time” list!

Posted by
6914 posts

Thanks for the report, it sounds like a nice trip. I'm looking forward to the next parts!

so interesting about the earlier location of the US Embassy - which
would seem to explain the iron entry gates to the courtyard

No, those gates have been there since the house was built. They can be seen in this old photo of the building: https://digitalastadsmuseet.stockholm.se/fotoweb/archives/5021-Historiska-fotografier/Skiss/1018/C_1872_0_0S.jpg.info#c=%2Ffotoweb%2Farchives%2F5021-Historiska-fotografier%2F%3Fq%3Dstrandv%25C3%25A4gen%25207

Posted by
10104 posts

Badger, thanks so much for finding that photo and sharing it ! Very cool !

Sorry all - work has been busy and then this weekend, my husband had us hosting. I will get back to my trip report soon !! (But a couple of letters have also gone out on my Bluetooth keyboard which means I need to pull out the laptop to enter the next sections !!)