Day 1.
Up early to catch the train from CPH Central to Malmo/Stockholm. I had purchased my ticket CPH-Malmo-Stockholm months in advance but probably didn’t need to. The train between CPH and Malmo is really a commuter train and many people were purchasing their tickets from kiosks in the station moments before departure. Because I was worried, I arrived at the station far in advance and actually got an earlier train than the one I was scheduled for (just asked a ticked agent and she hurried me aboard). Trains to Malmo ran approx every 20 minutes. Because I had a reserved seat from Malmo-Stockholm, I had to wait for the train in Malmo. The station there had a supermarket and many cafes, so it was fun to wander. All in all, a seamless process - scenery, comfortable seats, quiet car, dining car.
Taxi to The Bank Hotel - lovely place, fabulous location just a block or so from the HoHo bus, the boat departure and near the Palace and Gamla Stan. Immaculate (though small) rooms and wonderful European breakfast, including omelettes, pastries, fruits, cheese, cereals.
Wandered around to get my bearings and had dinner at the Operabaren (the Opera Bar), nearby. Delicious quenelles, wine and Princess cake.
Day 2
Because it was early in the season, the harbor cruises were limited but I did the Stromma Archipelago Tour with guide to get a sense of the city (which is on 17 islands!) and because it was a gorgeous, sunny day. The guide was informative and entertaining and I enjoyed sitting down. Then, off the boat to the Old Town (Gamla Stan) and the Royal Palace, which was just steps away. There are several museums in the palace complex and I enjoyed them all. (Hint - there are elevators in the main palace - you just have to ask and wait for someone to take you up and down - otherwise, there are a lot of stairs).Excellent guided tour brought the palace to life. Dinner at Restaurant Tradition, near the Palace - lovely place, wanted to sample ‘real’ Swedish cuisine and tried had herring three ways and Swedish meatballs - better than Ikea!
Day 3
The Nordiska (Nordic Heritage) Museum - loved it! A companion to the Historiska Museum, it picks up around 1500 and continues to the present. Everything from the Vikings, religion, clothing, emigration, social structures, etc. Excellent section on climate change and how it is effecting the Arctic. I was there for hours. Very good cafe for lunch.
Also visited - nearby - the Spirits Museum (about wine and liquor, not ghosts - very basic and skippable) and the Museum off Wrecks, surprisingly interesting - info on shipwrecks from long ago, as well as the recent tragedy of the Baltic ferry.
Day 4
To Nordiska and then a, a 20 minute walk to Prince Eugen's Waldemarsudde. Beautiful mansion, set in a parkland, overlooking the water, filled with art, sculptures and furniture and a special exhibit on flowers in art - light filled, airy and delightful. Lunch in the garden provided a lovely day - and it was a sunny!
Day 5
I know that the Vasa Museum is supposed to be a highlight but it wasn’t for me - a museum that holds the remains of a ship sunk hundreds of years ago, so I quickly paid my respects ts and headed back to central Stockholm. Hallwyl House was next , a magnificent home from the 19th century.filled with art, porcelain and antique furniture. Perfect for me. Then, a final dinner at Wedholms Fisk, a short walk from the the hotel, for seafood - white asparagus, cod with shrimp and pineapple flambé with coconut sorbet- . Yes, it was expensive but, after all, this was my last night - and - tomorrow is airplane food!
Final Thoughts
I purchased the 5 day City Card and found that it was accepted for everything, including the Hop On Hop Off, which served as my primary transport to the various sites. It made everything easy.
There are 80 museums in Stockholm and I barely touched the surface. Surely have to go back…