Please sign in to post.

Spring Escape to Paris & London

It’s been half a year at home and DH and I needed to go somewhere! Fall trip together was to uncharted territory in Puglia and Basilicata with lots of driving, so this time chose two old friends requiring no driving: Paris and London. Late April in this part of Europe can be wet, but we lucked out on the weather, and missed the summer tourist crush in both places.

Delta has plenty of nonstops to Paris, but the 10PM, maybe-I’ll-sleep-flight, is an Airbus, with the dreaded three seats on both sides. (Trust me, nobody wants to be my third roommate on an overnight flight!) To get a two seater, we bumped up to Premium Plus, which Delta advertises as more room and more recline, but felt about the same as regular Comfort. (I know, first world problem; but we’re long limbed and spending the kids’ inheritance now.) I don’t think the footrests are worth the extra several hundred bucks, and it’s nothing even close to the First Class Suites I got an envious peak at while boarding. Overnight flights are all a little slice of hell, but whether it was skipping all the meals and movies, or the drugs and eye mask, I was grateful to wake up in Paris.

We arrived on a Monday, so bought Navajo Decouverte passes this time. Finding the counter in Terminal 2 took several tries, but the friendly agent trimmed and taped the little headshots I printed at home, and headed us toward the taxis in minutes. Glad I didn’t prebook a driver, because the baggage claim to taxi process took longer than I would have predicted.

We got our money’s worth on the passes during a week in Paris, but I do love the view from a taxi. Used the Bonjour RATP app for the metro and GoogleMaps for walking. T-Mobile is our service provider, so we can burn through data in Europe without keeping count. Paris busses remain elusive. Exactly once, in many visits, I spotted Bus 69 in a location where I could board it, and that was not on this trip.

Staying at my favorite Hotel de Lutece on Ile Saint Louis. Pretty, well-designed rooms, a tiny lift, and a helpful front desk. I enjoy having a room over the street here. It’s a little noisy sometimes, but it’s happy people noise, not jarring bar music and traffic noise. A good boulangerie across the street, a grocery next door, plenty of small restaurants on Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, and Bertillion ice cream around the corner. We checked in about 4PM, walked as far as the nearest sidewalk cafe, on the corner facing the bridge leading to Notre Dame, and soaked up the sun and wine until time to cross the street to the Saint Regis cafe for food and wine. And these were our enjoyable accomplishments on arrival day.

[I’ve told the Lutece that I hope I’ll still be coming here when I’m really old, because everything I need is within a short walk. I’ll just skip the Metro, and they can load me on taxis.]

Posted by
995 posts

I love food tours in Europe, and in Paris there are many choices. Tuesday’s Secret Food Tour of the Marais was disappointing. Our guide Stephane was friendly, enthusiastic, and very accommodating of my big mistake in booking an afternoon ticket that necessitated our leaving the tour 30 minutes early. Most of the food was very good, but an odd combination for a food tour, especially one in Paris.

Started with an excellent croissant at a renowned bakery; then one macaron and two small gourmet chocolate squares at the second stop. At the next boulangerie, with beautiful tarts and desserts in the window, we got two slices of bread. Our “secret” dish was a gloppy, poutine-like mess with a small glass of wine at a barebones upstairs vegan restaurant. At the Marché des Enfants Rouges open market, the falafel shop was closed, but our guide thoughtfully made us a go bag with three tiny cheese slices and some bread. That was where we had to leave. Maybe there was more wine? Maybe there was a final dessert? Not sure, but not impressive for nearly 100 euro a person.

We left the food tour early to catch the 2PM train from Paris-Saint-Lazare to Vernon. Planned to taxi from the station to Giverny, but the little open tram was waiting and ready to pull out. Blue skies and not many visitors in the garden at 3:30, almost none when we left at 5:30. Tulips and peonies in full bloom. We were here before in late October and saw a totally different color palette. The waterlilies bloom in fall, but late spring is a riot of colors and flowers, a beautiful season to visit Giverny. Late afternoon was perfect timing. Very simple to prebook tickets online and take the train from Paris. Easy directions on the Giverny website. Once in little Vernon, you can take a rental bike, the tram, a taxi, or maybe a shuttle bus. Really no need for an expensive door-to-door tour from Paris.

Tonight’s big buckets of moules, more than we could finish, and baskets of frites at La Chaumiere, at the river end of our street, made up for any disappointment in this morning’s food tour.

Wednesday morning walk to lovely, green Place des Vosges and baguettes at a sidewalk table, then to the Invalides Metro station to catch the RER (Line C) train to Versailles for the equestrian show at Académie Équestre de Versailles.

Note here: I really dislike crowded venues and have a limited attention span for the wretched excess of most palaces. I visited Versailles’s interior, once, in winter, with very few people. I’m glad I saw it, but don’t need to see it again. But horse shows are something else, and worth special trips to find magnificent ones in Spain, Germany, Austria, and Slovenia.

I didn’t know exactly what to expect at Versailles, but this was one of my all-time favorite travel experiences! Unlike the military precision of the Vienna Lipizzaners, this French version more resembles dressage plus ballet. The young women, the equerries, train in fencing, dance, singing, and traditional Japanese archery in addition to their equestrian skills, and they perform to Baroque music with precision and gentleness. They are young professionals, living the dream of training and caring for a small group of beautiful horses, with an opportunity to ride before an audience once or twice a week.

It’s really difficult to describe the creativity and beauty of it all, but on YouTube you can see short clips of them performing. No photos allowed, but we were invited to visit the royal stables afterward to see the magnificent blonde Lusitanos and quarter horses. A spectacular experience! The stables are directly across the street from the palace, the big building on the left if your back is to the palace, 10-15 minute walk from the train station.

Posted by
995 posts

Rented a golf cart afterward to drive through the gardens at Versailles, a pleasant way to cover that vast acreage in an hour or so. There is a set route, and you can stop whenever you want. If you get off the planned path, the cart won’t go another foot until you back up and get back on the route. After visiting Giverny the day before, I was surprised to see no flowers at all in the gardens.

Back on our Ille Saint Louis street for a lovely four course dinner with decadent desserts at tiny L’lilot Vache on the corner.

Thursday morning we met our ParisWalks tour at the Tuileries metro. Paris during the Occupation and Liberation was the theme, and our guide was a knowledgeable, enthusiastic historian. Focused on the area around Place Vendome and the Ritz where the Nazi elite camped out during the occupation, this is more a walking history lesson than a string of sights. Our guide, a Brit who has lived in Paris for twenty years, shared strong opinions about Petain, the Vichy government, and the collaborators who sent their Jewish neighbors to their deaths. As with the other ParisWalks I’ve done, this was a small group with a top-notch guide for a deep dive into a specific slice of history.

After two and a half hours of walking and standing, we were ready to sit and eat under the trees in the Tuileries, with much better fish and chips than expected. This was followed by a long sit at the round pond watching children launching sailboats with wooden sticks, and a short sit watching the blue irises bloom in the gardens. Walked right in to the Musee de l’Orangerie mid afternoon to see Monet’s waterlilies. There was a line, but when the line guard asked if I had a reserved ticket and I didn’t, she pointed me to the ticket counter, and I bought my tickets and walked straight in, bypassing the waiting line. Go figure!

Friday morning we were at the enormous Hotel des Invalides to see the Army Museum and the marble rotunda holding Napoleon’s tomb. The museum is a well organized, if short, walk through WW1 and WW2, with many glass cases of military uniforms, plenty of newsreel footage, especially about DeGaulle, and a conspicuous absence of any mention of Petain or the Vichy government. Since Paris fell to Germany less than six weeks after they rolled into France, there was not a lot of battle footage to show. One of the most interesting exhibits was a signpost, in German, pointing to renamed streets and buildings in the center of Paris during the occupation.

The Rue Cler is only a few minutes’ walk from the museum. We picked one of the sunny outdoor cafes for lunch, then shopped the street for perfect strawberries and lemon tarts to take back to our hotel, and Paris soccer shirts for grandsons.

That evening I reserved tickets for the 8PM concert at Sainte-Chapelle. The venue is a jewel box, and on a late spring evening, still light enough to illuminate many of the windows. Six strings and a harpsichordist played a rousing hour of greatest Baroque hits. If you’re not a musician, you’ll still recognize most of these and enjoy the lively music. If you are a musician, you’ll probably be puzzled by the second and third reappearance of the flashy opening of Vivaldi’s Spring. There was no printed program, but the music was a crowd pleasing romp through some of the most familiar Baroque repertoire, lasting exactly one hour.

Posted by
995 posts

Saturday is our last day in Paris, another day of beautiful weather. Out by metro to the 16th arr. to the Musee Marmottan to see the world’s largest permanent collection of Monet and Berte Morisot.
The basement gallery is filled with with large canvases, colorful waterlilies and irises. Also a temporary exhibit right now themed The Theatre of Emotion, with expressive portraits from the Middle Ages to the present. .

The museum is housed in an elegant townhouse in a neighborhood of fine homes circling a park filled with flowers and sunbathers today. Feels many miles from tourist central Paris. Enjoyed a very good but not expensive lunch at Bo Zinc, a neighborhood brasserie not far from the Ranelagh Metro station.

Back to the 2nd arr. to find the covered gallery Passages Vivienne. Sunny Saturdays are busy with shoppers in this part of town, and sidewalks were crowded. Eventually found the pretty but very pricey gallery; a little window-licking but no purchases. A taxi ride home through the Louvre courtyard and along the Seine. Two last decadent ice cream cones from Bertillion, where we’ve stopped often. Tried lots of flavors this week, all intense and delicious, but my faves were the chocolate noir and the pear. One last dinner at the Saint Regis, and back to the hotel to pack.

One final fashion note: the footwear choice of the moment for Parisiennes young and chic - pristine, solid white, old school tennis shoes, think Stan Smith white Adidas! They’re everywhere!

We’ve had a great week in Paris, doing exactly what we wanted, but Sunday, May 1, is a major holiday, a good day to be leaving on Eurostar. At Gare Nord we cleared both French and British immigration, so stepped off the train at St. Pancras in London and directly into a new black hybrid taxi to the Kensington Marriott.

Usually stay at apartments in London but couldn’t find the right one this time. Those years of road warrior business travel pay off with guaranteed upgrades at Marriotts, and access to the concierge lounge is a great perk for breakfasts, drinks, and light dinners before theatre nights. This Marriott was a few minutes’ walk from the Earls Court tube which is on both the Circle and District lines, direct links to many of the placers visitors are headed. It’s also on Cromwell Rd bus lines, but those were less useful except to the VA/Science/Natural History museum block.

We planned our exit from Paris for a relaxed morning, but gaining an hour with the time change, arrived in London in time for a mid afternoon Sunday roast lunch. Hawksmoor Knightsbridge was completely filled when we arrived for our 3PM reservation. Our server told us they serve 300 lunches each Sunday. This is an expensive steak restaurant, but their Sunday roast is delicious and a great value. They also make a wonderful Caesar salad sprinkled with tiny fried Sicilian anchovies. Our server talked us into sharing a sticky toffee pudding, then insisted it was on him.

Posted by
995 posts

Monday morning we topped up our Oyster cards at Earls Court and were in Covent Garden in minutes. Their Monday antiques show is just big enough, and I found an old bear with almost all his fur loved off. Didn’t buy any Chanel or LV in Paris, and like this much better. Discovered my favorite Covent Garden home design shop didn’t survive Covid. Lunch at the Wagamama on Bedford street and a taxi to the Underground War Rooms to stay as long as we want in the Churchill Museum. Skipped the audioguide tour of the bunkers, which we’ve done many times, and focused on the films and exhibits in the museum this time. We had a timed reservation for 2PM, but there was not a single person in queue outside when we arrived.

Took a long walk through St. James Park, past the flocks of waterfowl and spring flowers, then back for a short hotel break before our play tonight. Life of Pi, based on the novel by Yann Martel, is wildly creative when transported to the stage. Not surprising it won five Oliviers, including Best New Play. A life-size Bengal tiger licks his paws, storm waves crash over a freighter, sea turtles swim underwater in front of you, and all disbelief is suspended. One of the most spectacular productions I’ve ever seen.

Tuesday was museum day, just not together . For me, the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibit at the Natural History Museum, followed by a few favorite rooms at the National Gallery. For him, the Imperial War Museum, where we spent hours on our last visit, but both the WW1 and WW2 exhibits were completely redesigned during the covid shutdown, and there’s a new Holocaust section.

Met up for mid-afternoon lunch at the Covent Garden Dishoom for fiery Indian food. Their focus is Indian street food from different regions, all unfamiliar to us. So we gave our server free rein to plan our meal, and had a wonderful, spicy combination of his favorites. If you have timid taste buds [we don’t] Dishoom might not work for you, but it was a memorable meal.

Tonight’s play is Six, the musical about the wives of Henry VIII - divorced, beheaded, dead - is high energy with a creative twist to the herstory. All six wives had strong voices, and the onstage back up rock musicians (all women!) made for a fun and loud production.

Wednesday is late start morning and shopping day, because we need gifts, especially for our dog sitters! I usually have my best luck at two favorite museum gift shops. But the National Portrait Gallery is closed for renovations until 2023, and St Martin’s-in-the-Field’s shop is a shadow of its former size. One of the shopworkers told me “We’ll go back to normal size when the tourists come back.” Liberty’s was charming and expensive, but got lucky on Oxford Street at John Lewis about an hour after I was completely over shopping.

Our lunch was upstairs at Chandos pub on St. Martin’s Lane across from Trafalgar Square. Fish and chips were very, very good in this small traditional pub. Tonight’s play is Neil Gaimon’s The Ocean at the End of the Lane. This was written as a story for children, but parts were terrifying. A creative, well-acted drama, very intense.

Posted by
995 posts

Thursday is our last full day. I’m intrigued by all the new changes at the Imperial War Museum, where Bob spent most of Tuesday, so back we go. Not nearly enough time to read all the exhibits, but will return next trip. Our time was cut short because we’re scheduled for a LondonWalks about the Blitz at 2:30. Taxi got us to our meeting place with a few minutes to spare, so we ate our Pret lunch in a tiny park across from the St. Paul tube stop.

Met our well-prepared Blue Badge Guide and started our walk in the area around St.Paul’s cathedral. Since the Blitz damage has long since been renovated and revitalized, this was another walking history lesson with interesting stops in Postman’s Park and the area around the Museum of London. Passed a memorial to John Wesley and a plaque marking his Aldersgate experience. An interesting tour for WW2 buffs, and it ran long.
We hoped to find a place for tea not too far away, and our guide recommended Brigit B’s on St. Martin’s Lane. A taxi got us there before the 5PM ending of tea service, but they were already sold out. We’re not far from the Bedford St Wagamama’s so had an early, relaxed dinner there before catching a taxi to Cinderella.

Cinderella must be nearing the end of its run by now. In this Andrew Lloyd Weber version, she’s a Goth girl, the outcast in her pretty little French village. The stepmother is, of course, played with over-the-top camp, and the ditzy stepsisters get the best lines. Cinderella has a lovely voice - she’s sung leads in Les Mis - and the best song, but I was hoping for an edgier production. If you’ve seen/heard a lot of ALW musicals, it was about as expected. It has been wonderful to be back in the room with live theatre again, and 3/4 of our nights were exceptional.

Flying home from Heathrow tomorrow, so tested at a pharmacy at Earls Court this morning before heading out. We timed the third booster to peak for this day. Paris required masks on all public transport, but London is the wild, wild, West, and we have joined right in. Almost no masking on tubes or in theaters. A friend who’s flying home from Greece posted last night on FB that she’s praying they will test neg. I’m wishing and hoping the same, though it doesn’t seem fair to pray for it since we really haven’t done our part to insure it this trip. But we are both NEGATIVE and are now welcome to go home!

Postscript:
Don’t know if it was that last glorious day in London, or the one crowded tube ride leaving Covent Garden after Cinderella, or the airport, or the maskless flight home…but Bob tested positive on Tuesday, and since we share a living space, I inevitably joined him on Thursday. (I had 24 hours of slight sinus congestion, and would never have tested if he hadn’t been pos.) His symptoms lasted only 48 hrs.

Bottom line: I’m sure that maxing out our vaccines and boosters had plenty to do with us having such mild symptoms, even if it didn’t protect us 100%. And going forward, I’m planning the next trip with even more optimism! I still know I could get stuck somewhere, and it could be expensive and boring, but I’m ready to keep traveling.

Posted by
1518 posts

Best Review I've read on RS! Since I have been to London and Paris a few times, you helped me visualize your trip and I long to experience it again using the wonderful and useful information you provided. Thanks!

Posted by
14976 posts

Thanks for an enlightening and detailed trip report. The WW1 section of Army Museum was expanded for the centennial in 2014, much more on display than prior to 2014.

The Museum holds a special exhibit from May to July, one of the advantages of being in Paris in the summer. The last special exhibit I saw there had the topic "Napoleon as Strategist" in 2018 (?). At the hotel watching the French news, I saw this special exhibit being reported, ie, "something to do while in Paris" sort of thing, well, better get to it.

The year before the special exhibit focused on France and the war of 1870.

Posted by
627 posts

As always, a stellar report. I get excited every time you post one, Ruth. Thank you!

Posted by
4256 posts

What a lovely trip. I have booked London for next April and we are going to go to Paris after (our Covid trip that didn’t happen) anyway, your recommended hotel is already booked for the dates I am looking at - May 1 for 7 nights. Ugh. It just sounds so perfect. Can you recommend an alternative?

Posted by
995 posts

Barbara, it’s a small hotel, but I’m surprised it’s booked that far out. Maybe it’s too far out? Did you contact them directly? They have a sister hotel on the same street but I’m not certain of the name. I know they have a generous free cancellation policy, so rooms may open and disappear frequently. Keep trying.

Another source is the webpage for Paris Walks: https://www.paris-walks.com/favourite-hotel_m.html. I’ve had such good experiences with their walks, I trust their opinions.

Posted by
2679 posts

Great report and tons of useful information! Thank you for posting!

Posted by
3561 posts

Throughly enjoyed your report and wholeheartedly agree with you about Hotel de Lutece! Love that whole little island. We ate at 3 different restaurants on that island, but not the same ones as you alas.

Posted by
4256 posts

Yes, i checked their website directly. All booked. But i will keep looking. In the meantime Hotel Saint-Louis en L’Isle is available and i will book this hotel. It has a generous cancellation policy. My only decision is should we stay 7 nights or longer. It will be our first trip to Paris and we are going alone, no family or friends. We missed our 40th Anniversary due to covid so this is a make up. I might have to push it to 10 nights cause I don’t know when we would be able to return, so many other places to see.

Posted by
920 posts

Great report Ruth…..like you our favorite place to stay in Paris is Hotel Lutece……we love being on the Isle and in the center of Paris….so easy to get everywhere……quiet street though the rooms are small but we make that adjustment ……..everything you need is so close by! They owed us a breakfast one morning and their dining room was full so they walked us over to their sister hotel a few buildings away and we had a delicious hot breakfast…..love that there is someone at their desk 24-7!

Posted by
165 posts

Loved your trip report. Made notes for my next trip to these two wonderful
Cities, hopefully next year. I was thinking of staying in a hotel in St Germain area but now considering Ike Saint Louis. Any thoughts on this? We are traveling with a 12 year old ame plan on DDay beaches before heading to London. Thanks

Posted by
995 posts

Gladys,
After clocking a lot of years of traveling, I don't obsess too much any more about finding THE perfect hotel. There are probably plenty that will make me happy. St Germain is one of the areas I don't know well, but it always looks leafy and green with lots of neighborhood activity. One advantage I think St Louis might have with a 12yo is its small size and lack of traffic. I would be comfortable letting my 12 & 14yo grandsons wander on their own on the pedestrian street of the Lutece. (They've travelled a lot and look older than they are, but there's such a quiet, safe feel to the area.)

Normandy is on our list for the grandsons. I have bookmarked an interesting thread titled Family Visit to D Day Beaches. We've always stayed in Bayeux, but someone in the conversation mentions a family beach resort on Utah Beach that I want to look into when we take them: La Sapiniere in Vierville Sur Mer.

We've taken each of our grandsons to London and liked having apartments near Covent Garden. Lots of nearby activity and easy tube connections.

Posted by
995 posts

Tom,
The problem with most Delta transatlantic flights out of ATL for me is that they land in Europe about 1-2 AM Atlanta body time, with no chance of my ever falling asleep, and a guaranteed miserable first day on the ground. For that reason, I'm always looking for a direct flight leaving as late as possible. That late CDG flight is perfect timing but lousy seating.

Posted by
14976 posts

Flying out SFO to Paris or Frankfurt non-stop is almost the same with the arrival time between 10 and 11 am, which means you're arriving when it is between one and two AM on the West Coast, taking into account the nine hour difference.

Posted by
995 posts

Fred, that sounds even worse that flying out of ATL!

Posted by
14725 posts

Ruth, what a wonderful trip! Thank you so much for taking the time to post!

I'll bet you had Chris for your WWII Paris Walks tour! He is awesome. Next time do his Knights Templar walk (or better yet, arrange a private walk of this one!). You did one of my other favorite London walks with the Blitz although my experiences with both of them are all pre-Covid.

Sorry you wound up testing positive after you returned home but glad neither of you were terribly ill with it.

Posted by
14976 posts

@ Ruth....Flights from SFO to Paris and Frankfurt depart between 13:30 and 16:00 within that time span. It's a schedule 11 hour flight, my experience has mostly been (yes, a couple of exceptions too) you arrive ca. 15 to max 30 mins prior to the scheduled landing. This means you 're touching down between 9:45 to 10:15 am. By the time I've cleared Passport Control , picked up my luggage, it could be 11 am or close to noon, all depends on your luck and "their" efficiency on that day. On a "bad" day, you could be waiting for 30 mins or more in front of baggage claim waiting for the first piece to be thrown out. That happened distinctly once to me at CDG.

Bottom line: Given the nine hour difference between the West Coast and the time in France and Germany, I'm starting off my arrival day when it is 2-3 AM on the West Coast. I've never flown out of ATL to the continent, only out of SFO and once from LAX...all non-stop.

Posted by
10599 posts

Yes, travel from the west coast to Europe is brutal. Especially for those of us that struggle to sleep on a plane. It’s just what we go through to get there. When we arrive we just power through the day and go to bed around 9:00 or 10:00. By the next day we are good to go.