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Spain - Mostly Extremadura - 1-24 October 24

On this trip, other than Madrid, we stayed at Paradors and had a rental car. We started in Toledo and then stayed in Gredos, Oropesa, Jarandilla de la Vera, Plasencia, Trujillo, Cáceres, Guadalupe, Mérida, and Almagro. Other than in Mérida we found free parking near the hotels if it wasn’t free at the hotel. In Cáceres, because the hotel is within a pedestrian only UNESCO Heritage site, parking was further away.

Temperatures were mostly in the low to mid-sixties during the day and into the fifties at night. There were a few days when it rained, but only one that affected what we planned to do.

The only times cash was needed was when we bought cookies at a convent in Toledo, the Monastery in Guadalupe, and at laundromats in Plasencia and Almagro. There was one legitimate occasion when the Internet went down at the cafeteria by our hotel in Madrid, so we paid in cash rather than wait for it to come back online. It was online the next day. While I did use cash for many small purchases it was by choice. All credit card purchases were contactless. The hotels gave the USD or Euro option without having to decline the DCC. With a couple exceptions all other places automatically charged in Euros.

I used one ATM machine in Toledo to take out a small quantity of Euros to top up what I had remaining from a previous trip. Throughout the trip I did notice some ATMs had a contactless option, but I have no idea if it worked with U.S. credit cards.

With the rental car I purchased fuel from manned stations. I honestly didn’t notice any unmanned stations. At most stations attendants pumped the gas for you and you paid inside. There are rural locations where fuel stations are few and far between, so for those considering renting a car, ensure you have enough fuel to get you to the next town or two. During one stretch on this trip I drove for almost an hour without seeing a station.

Outside of the main tourist destinations it was difficult to find a restaurant to get food between 4:00pm and 8:30pm. Many restaurants were closed on Mondays while others were closed on Tuesdays. Due to the region we visited pork and paprika featured prominently on menus.

Having been to Toledo numerous times we just walked around the town and didn’t go into any of the standard tourist sites. It was a place to get over jet lag. Between Toledo and Gredos were stops at Guadamur, Arenas de San Pedro, and Mombeltrán to see castles. Gredos is up in the mountains and a nice place for hikers. There are no towns of any size nearby.

After Gredos there were stops at the Marbles Temple on the Valdecañas Reservoir and Belvis de Monroy castle en route to Oropesa. In Oropesa we had a room that looked out at the town castle; the only real site to visit in town. Between Oropesa and Jarandilla de la Vera were stops at Madrigal de la Vera to see a Roman bridge, Devil’s waterfall, Valverde de la Vera (on Spain’s prettiest village list), and Villanueva de la Vera (some architecturally nice buildings). From Jarandilla we visited nearby San Jerónimo de Yuste Monastery, and the villages of Cuacos de Yuste and Garganta la Olla.

Between Jarandilla and Plasencia were stops to visit the castle and abandoned town at Granadilla and Hervás to see the medieval bridge and Jewish quarter. In Plasencia we visited the cathedral and walked along a portion of the old town walls. From there was a day trip over to Monsanto Portugal to see the landscape and some filming locations used in House of the Dragon. Returning from there were stops in Coria and Galisteo to see another medieval bridge, castle, and walk along more medieval town walls. Unlike most walled towns, the walls at Galisteo were built river river stones rather than the blocks.

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Continued

En route to Trujillo was a stop in Monfragüe National Park. In Trujillo were visits to the
Iglesia San Martín de Tours, the castle, Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor, and the Pizarro family house. The house wasn’t worth even the small admission price. Trujillo’s main plaza was a nice place to people watch.

Between Trujillo and Cáceres was a stop at Los Barruecos National Monument to see the landscape and visit a couple filming locations used in The Game of Thrones. In Cáceres, the historic center was nice to wander. Having seen a number of churches and not being museum people, we went into the couple that were free to enter on the day we were there; Iglesia de Santiago el Mayor and the museum of Cáceres. The historic center looked nice lit up at night and after walking around, it was nice to sit and have a drink in the main plaza and watch time slowly go by. While most museums in town seemed to have a 2.5€ admission fee, if one went into all of them, those fees would add up.

The only reason to visit Guadalupe is to see the Royal monastery of Santa Maria of Guadalupe. That’s the only thing to do in town. Our room had a balcony overlooking the monastery so we had picnic dinners both nights we were there. The town plaza is nice, but small.

Going to Mérida there was a short stop to see Medellín castle. While we had been to Mérida on a couple previous trips, we hadn’t been there since 1994. We visited the standard tourist stops, theater, amphitheater, Temple of Diana, Portico of the Municipal Forum of Augusta Emerita, a couple aqueducts, and the Roman Circus. The theater and amphitheater had an admission of 13€. It was also the only place to check nationality to receive reduced admission that is for EU residents only. The town itself was very lively with plenty of people walking around at all hours. While 8:30 is the typical beginning of dinner time, many restaurants in Mérida didn’t open until 9:00-9:30. On our last evening there there was a procession honoring Saint Eulália Virgin and Martyr that went right past the Parador. Like for Semana Santa it took 60 individuals to carry the float carrying the statue of the Saint.

The trip started winding down with a couple nights in Almagro, another village on Spain’s prettiest villages list, however that is determined. Other than the main plaza there was little else to the town. Like all our Spain trips, the last two nights were spent in Madrid. Returning to Madrid we stopped once again to see the windmills at Consuegra.

If you want to visit locations with few English speaking tourists, head to Extremadura.

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884 posts

I always love reading your trip reports! They always make me want to go. Thanks for posting.

Posted by
393 posts

Nice report and so nice to read one about a road less travelled. What sights or activities did you most enjoy and why? Look forward to hearing about those.

Brings me back to visits with friends who lived in Jerte - and who had a finca (orchard; cherry trees) in the hills, there - as well as our visits to Merida and Caceres, on our way from Andalusia to Jerte. Stunning Roman history in Merida, the usual sights that you mention, as well as the 2000 year old bridge we crossed.

We also had a lovely day trip over the mountains from Jerte to Hervas and it’s Barrio Hebreo. The marker about the neighborhood, the Inquisition and 1492 will remain with me forever.

On another, earlier summertime trip to Jerte we went to Los Pilones and dipped into the pools. Way cool.

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4180 posts

Nice report I will bookmark, Extremadura is definitely still a hidden gem for most foreigners who visit Spain.

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7146 posts

@fred - We enjoyed the entire trip. There are few wow sites in Extremadura. The cities are small and the villages don’t take a lot of time to see. We enjoy castles and visit some on every trip even if it’s only to see them from the exterior. Convents and monasteries are nice, but a couple on each trip are sufficient.

On this trip we would have enjoyed spending more time in Gredos, Monfragüe National Park and Los Barruecos National Monument, but threatening weather prevented us from exploring them further.

While we had been to Trujillo decades ago, we were surprised how much we enjoyed it. We also liked Cáceres and enjoyed it more at night when it was lit up. Walking around small villages is nice, but we cut some from the trip. It would have taken longer to drive to them than it would have taken to visit them, so it wouldn’t have been the best use of our time.

On the trip we spent 2-3 nights at most Paradors, but some of the towns they are located only merit one night; Oropesa, Almagro, Jarandilla de la Vera, and Guadalupe. The issue then becomes having to pack and unpack more frequently.

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I mentioned in another post that we are looking to head to this area so your report was very informative. A couple of questions I was think of using Caceres as a home base and drive to some of the areas around there, is that feasible? Also do you have any recommendations on hotels you loved.