TOLEDO (Hotel Isabel): I was glad we decided to do a couple of overnights here, as the town empties in the evening and outside the cathedral is particularly stunning in the moonlight. Roaming and taking in the beauty of the city was the highlight, as was seeing El Greco's "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz." We also enjoyed visiting the Mezquieta Del Cristo de La Luz and the Monastery of San Juan de Los Reyes. Both days we had lunch at Almacen 51. Simple and delicious.
The Hotel Isabel is well-located. The room was very small, but had a fantastic view. The breakfast was not my favorite. The rooftop terrace was lovely.
MADRID (Only You Atocha): I had some trepidation about Madrid after reading so many mixed reviews on the forum, but we loved it. Highlights were the Prado, Retiro Park, and the Caixa Forum. We so enjoyed how Prado boulevard is closed down on Sundays for strolling. We were there during the National Day of Spain and had fun watching a parade. We toured the Royal Palace but didn't love it. I walk through those kinds of places and just think about how all the money could be put to better use elsewhere. Our favorite restaurant in Madrid was the small Matilda's Cafe Barrio de Las Letras. So, so good.
Missteps: 1. Stopped for lunch in San Lorenzo before heading to El Escorial (BTW, San Lorenzo is lovely). It was a Saturday and it took so long to find a table without a reservation that we ended up at El Escorial without enough time to do it justice. We forged ahead, but then had issues with the audio guides, as the battery power was weak after being used all day. Suffice it to say, we could have used a marriage counselor by the end of the day. 2. Got on the wrong train to Segovia. It would have got us there, but it was going to take much, much longer than the intended train. We decided to roll with it, but something happened on the tracks and the train was evacuated. Buses were going to eventually be brought around to transport us, but the time frame was unknown. We declined a cab driver's offer to charge 100 euros to get us there. We returned to Madrid and never made it to Segovia. 3. While waiting in line for the nun cookies (fun experience), I realized I left my wallet at a restaurant. We were exhausted at this point, but miraculously were suddenly able to sprint back. Someone had turned it in, so all was well. 4. Stupidly purchased the hotel's overpriced rooftop buffet breakfast one morning. I wanted to punch myself. 5. We had such good experiences at Barcelona's Ingles Cortes cafeteria, we headed to Madrid's. Extremely overpriced and crowded. We left, so not really a misstep, but a heads-up.
Only You Atocha: The location was perfect for us, since we arrived and departed from the Atocha train station. Great room, much nicer than we are used to.
RONDA (Hotel Soho Boutique Palacio San Gabriel): Ronda is just as beautiful as everyone says. We had dinner at Almocabar, which our cab driver recommended. Our most expensive meal of the trip, but it was delicious. The bartender and server were so kind, patient and warm. They, as much as the food, made the experience memorable. If you go, have the strawberry gazpacho over melon and ice cream for dessert. NO WORDS. We enjoyed a Spanish guitar performance at the Ronda Guitar House.
Hotel Soho Boutique Palacio San Gabriel: Owner so kind. Small room, good location. Would stay there again.