Please sign in to post.

Spain - central Andalucia - May 2026

Upon arrival in Málaga we needed to register with the EES and had mixed results. There were plenty of registration kiosks and we walked right up to them; no line. The process only takes a few minutes when everything works as it should. My information was accepted, but the fingerprint reader couldn’t read my wife’s prints over three attempts so she was directed to an agent while I was able to use the e-gates. Since there was no line at either we got through immigration at the same time. When departing Málaga my wife had to go to the manned immigration booth while I used the e-gates. There were plenty of gates, no line, and I was through in a couple minutes.

While the rental car agency did not ask to see our IDPs, the agent asked if we had them. He stated that if stopped by the police and we didn’t have one the fine could be €200-€300. Our intermediate SUV rental car had a built in navigation system that was already set to English, so we used it almost exclusively. The vehicle we were given was a Renault Symbioz hybrid.

For the 21 days we had the rental car we spent €122.63/$151in fuel, used 77.02liters/20.3 gallons, and drove 1654km/993 miles. The total equivalent miles per gallon was 48.91.

I used a Deutsche Bank atm once; more to ensure I had sufficient cash for future trips than actually needing cash. The contactless pad worked with my card, so there was no need to insert it. Most places accepted credit cards, but some cash was needed. For example, at two establishments the wireless signal was too weak for the transaction to complete or the readers were legitimately acting up, the bus up to Almodóvar castle, one restroom, self-service laundry, small town admissions, and the city buses in Motril. Total cash needed for 22 days in country was €74. An additional €20 was used, but a card could have been used.

During the trip, where possible, I filled up the rental car at Carrefour stores since the fuel was €.06 per liter less than other stations. One station had a manned booth for payment. For another, my card wasn’t accepted at the pump using the contactless pad, but was when I inserted it.

On this trip we stayed almost exclusively at Parador hotels in Málaga, Ronda, Antequera, Córdoba, Jaén, Úbeda, Cazorla, Lorca, and Mojácar. The only non Parador hotel was in Motril.

During the entire trip there were only two days with some rain. The temperatures ranged between 40 degrees at night in the mountains to the mid-70s during the day. On most days the high temperature was in the upper 60s.

As our flight arrived in Málaga in the early evening, we spent the night at the Parador a few miles from the airport. It worked out well since we were only spending one night there and it was easy to get to. In the morning we departed for Ronda.

Ronda - Since we had visited Ronda a few times previously, we only walked down into the gorge and along the promenade that skirts the gorge. On our full day there we took a day trip to Setenil de las Bodegas and it was full of tourists, many of whom had no awareness of their surroundings with regard to others who wanted to take photos just like they did. Afterwards, we intended to visit Olvera, but about 2 miles from it the road was closed for repair work due to all the rain and floods over the past couple months. As there were no easy alternative routes we just went back to Ronda. While there were plenty of tourists in Ronda it wasn’t overwhelming. For those visiting with a rental car, the main street through town, by the 1793 constructed New Bridge, is a camera enforced restricted driving zone. If staying at a hotel in that area remember to provide your with your vehicle’s license plate number to avoid getting a ticket.

Posted by
8587 posts

part 2

Antequera - Arrived on a holiday so some things, including the dolmens and stores, were closed. We walked around town, then up to the Alcazaba and church. The Alcazaba was smaller than many I’ve visited, but the views from the towers were outstanding.
We returned to the dolmens the next day. Tickets and parking were free. Of the three dolmens, the largest (Menga) was closed for emergency repair work. It took longer to walk to two of the dolmens (Menga and VIera) than it took to see them. The third dolmen is a couple miles from the other two and its entrance is right at the parking area. We were going to walk El Torcal, but the road up to the visitor center was closed. Worse was the fog and a visibility of only about 200 yards. After a picnic dinner we walked around town and had the unique experience of having a glass of wine in the town bullring. The bar placed tables in the ring itself.
En route from Antequera to Córdoba we stopped at Laguna de Fuente de Piedra to see the flamingos. We were lucky that a couple dozen were in a pond near the parking lot and hundreds of others in the large lagoon. The other stop was at Castillo Almodovar del Rio. It was very well restored and used as a filming location in The Game of Thrones.

Córdoba - Another town we had visited a few other times. Since the Parador was a few miles from the main part of town, we used the public bus rather than try to find parking to go into town. Like Ronda, Córdoba was bustling with tourists in the historic center.

Although we had previously visited the Mezquita on three occasions, we decided to visit it again. There were no manned ticket booths; tickets were bought at a kiosk. We walked right up, no line, bought our tickets at 3:20 for a 3:30 entrance. It could not have been much easier.

The city’s patio festival (contest) began the day after our arrival and we visited 23 patios during our stay. Some were more impressive than others, but it was obvious the owners took pride in their patios. Many owners were present to answer questions or simply engage in conversation.

After Córdoba we saw very few U.S. tourists until we returned to Málaga. In some towns we only came across Spanish tourists.
Between Córdoba and Jaén we stopped in the village of Zuheros that is on Spain’s prettiest villages list. It is situated near the foot of a mountain with a countryside full of olive trees. While there we visited the very small castle and a local museum.

Jaén - Our hotel was located beside Castillo Santa Catalina, so upon checking in we visited it. Fortunately for us entrance was free the day we visited it. While we enjoyed the castle it wasn’t one of our favorites. The city has no wow sites, but the San Francisco market was nice to walk through and its architecturally beautiful cathedral was worth visiting.

Posted by
8587 posts

part 3 - final

Baeza - We stopped in Baeza en route to Úbeda and was somewhat disappointed. Although it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, I fail to see why. There were a few nice buildings, but nothing like in Cáceres. The main plaza was a huge construction zone and there was construction taking place in other locations too. If passing by it’s worth a short visit, but I would not go out of my way just to see it.

Úbeda - Being a UNESCO World Heritage site, driving in the historic center is restricted during certain hours and on certain days, so we parked nearby, a short walk from our hotel. The town itself isn’t overly large and the historic center is fairly flat and easy to walk around. There are some very architecturally attractive building facades. This town was the middle of the trip and it was also the first time we had rain, so it was a perfect opportunity to do laundry.

Wanting to do an olive oil tasting type tour we stopped in at the Centro de Interpretación Olivar y Aceite. Reservations for a formal tasting needed to be made online, but the employee gave us a summary of what is provided in the tour, a small cup for tasting, and we were allowed to taste as many as 42 brands of early harvest olive oil. The unofficial tasting was free. Spoiler alert, after about 6 or 7 they all get mixed together.

The town’s Crosses of May celebration was taking place while there. We came across about half the decorated crosses while walking around.

On our final day in Úbeda we took a day trip to Baños de la Encina. It’s another of Spain’s prettiest villages. While there we toured the 10th century Castle of Burgalimar, Baroque chapel of Jesús del Llano, and went by the village’s windmill. Both the castle and chapel are visited by guided tour only with the chapel only accepting cash.

Cazorla - After Úbeda we headed into the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park for our stay at the Cazorla Parador. En route we stopped off in the village of Cazorla to view its castle, the ruins of Santa María church, and take a short river walk. From our hotel in the mountains we took a couple walks, each being a couple miles.

Transiting down to the coast we stopped to see Mojácar, another village on Spain’s prettiest villages list. The town is up on a hill and very little is level. It is cute, but due to its location on the Costa de Almería it is overrun with tourists this time of year.

Further inland we visited Fort Bravo in Tabernas. It’s an old movie set used as a filming location for many 1960s spaghetti westerns. Parts of The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly were filmed there as were scenes from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Continuing along the coast we spent a couple nights in Motril. Other than the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Head that’s up on a hill on the one end of town, there’s little else of interest in the town, especially on a Sunday when everything is closed.

Our final two nights in Spain were spent in Málaga at the Parador by the castle. During our time in the city we visited the castle, Picasso museum, Picasso birth house, Roman theatre, Atarazanas Market, Calle Larios, and Plaza de la Constitución. Having seen far too many churches on this trip we just walked by the cathedral. We also stopped at the small Érmita de Zamarrilla because of the legend about a fugitive who hid under the robes of the Virgin of Zamarrilla to escape the Guardia Civil, later pinning a white flower to her chest with a dagger, which turned crimson.

For whatever reason the castle was free when we visited it. There wasn’t anybody in the ticket booth. We also got lucky with the Picasso locations. Because it was international museum day, both museums were free to enter. We were unimpressed with both Picasso museums and felt the Barcelona museum was much better.

Posted by
6122 posts

Thanks for all the details! Especially for some of the smaller towns we don’t read much about. Waiting for Part 2.

Posted by
8587 posts

Parts two and three are already there, but as replies. Each part is marked and underlined.