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Southern Spain Trip - Feb/March 2026

I’ll preface this trip report by saying I’ve had more required changes before a trip started than I’ve ever experienced! Flexibility has been key!

The major train collision occurred north of Cordoba the month before the trip. I immediately changed my RT Madrid flights to RT to Malaga to hopefully minimize transportation issues. Ironically, the storm flooding a few weeks later caused the trains to not run north from Malaga. So that route became a bus, instead. This was something I could work through, but receiving multiple emails of delayed trains, cancelled trains and the cancelled Cordoba evening illumination outdoor show began to make me wander if I’d made the right choice to return to Spain this year.

Last year I came to several of these cities and wrote this trip report “A Widow’s Trip - Southern Spain - February Trip Report”. My goal this year was to return to Cadiz where I hadn’t returned and to have a final February trip in southern Spain before switching to different plans for 2027.

I stay at my airport hotel when I have an early flight to sleep as long as possible for an early flight. I was ready for my three flights the next morning beginning at 6:45am. Upon arriving at Malaga through Minneapolis & Amsterdam, I took the easy metro from the Malaga airport to downtown Malaga. I love easy transportation from the airport after jet lag, and it’s inexpensive.

Malaga: I returned to the Soho Boutique Colon Hotel. It’s the hotel my husband & I stayed at two years ago so I thought it would be nice as a beginning for this trip & nice memories. Lucciano’s Gelato at the end of my block is still excellent! I walked around the center streets, past the view of the castle but mainly to the free botanical garden that borders the main street to both be in the sun & also to steady my body. The last flight had severe turbulence for an hour with an ending punctuation mark of the hardest landing on the tarmac I’ve experienced, so I was feeling a little loopy.

My first full day in Spain began with an excellent hotel breakfast - nice variety, and a refreshing walk over to the waterfront harbor. The parrots were happily squawking in the trees and on the sidewalk. I saw a large banner for a festival in Malaga during my last days of this trip. That sealed the choice that I wouldn’t try to change my flight to leave from Madrid.

I took a taxi to the bus station to spend three days in Cordoba. I could have taken the metro again & walked to the station except it was extremely crowded at this stop going back that direction, so I decided to spend a few “kindness Euros”. It was very few; less than €5 for the taxi!

The bus to Cordoba (no trains running that route) was provided as an extra one for that route, and we didn’t make any stops along the way. It stopped at the station across the street from the Cordoba train station.

Cordoba: For my three days in Cordoba I stayed at the beautiful H10 Palacio Colomera at Plaza de las Tendillas again. I paid for the upgrade again to be facing the plaza with a balcony room. I like evening noise when I’m traveling solo. Select a different side of the hotel if you want a quiet room. Their breakfast is excellent, my room was large with very high ceilings & a modern bathroom, and they have a rooftop lounging area, plus a plunge pool on the 1st floor. (I’m still amazed at the very reasonable price for such a nice hotel - much nicer than I usually pick.)

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I didn’t have a map - just walked all over from memory. The city is beautiful and distinctive. I purchased two evening illumination outdoor shows at the Alcazar, but they were refunded because it’s closed for renovations.

My second day, I walked over to Palacio de Viana since the patios were gorgeous last year. I came to Spain a few weeks later than my 2025 dates, but the flowers weren’t blooming as much, yet. Afterwards I met up with GuruWalks for a walking tour. He gave us a nice tour. After a Starbucks €10 lunch (surprisingly not busy - ha!), I went over to the Mezquita for my timed entrance. I wanted to sketch the arches this time, so I brought my small book. The weather was perfectly warm & sunny, so I sat in the courtyard afterwards in the sunshine and sketched. This day, February 28, is the “Day of Andalucia” holiday, so a lot of locals were here enjoying this day.

Last year I went to the Hammam bath for the kessa scrub, massage & baths. It felt heavenly! So my last day in Cordoba was returning to the Hammam for a massage & baths at Hammam Al Andalus. The experience was similar to last year - very nice main pool & excellent massage! The small intimate room with the two hot baths has some changes that to me detracted from the sanctuary experience last year. The tiny droplets from a fountain has increased flow now becoming a noisy fountain, and they added piped in low speaking which was very distracting. For some reason a large cube similar to a Chinese lantern with illuminated children’s storybook illustrations was floating in each of those two baths. I returned to the main bath to get back the calm atmosphere. The massage was excellent! I would still recommend this place.

I had tickets to the evening illumination outdoor show at the Alcazar, but they sent me an email that it was closed for renovations. I did walk past the lower street that borders the Alcazar and could peek in a few spots, seeing the special garden with flowers blooming that I enjoyed last year. Be sure to go through it if you’re in Cordoba - preferably when they open in the morning for the best garden experience.

Before dinner, I stood in the plaza near the benches and sketched a small section of my beautiful hotel & added a couple of the patio rooftop umbrellas peeking out the top. Sketches provide a chance to catch a special architectural feature or the way a palm tree has grown in ways that aren’t noticed when I am photographing.

Dinner - three tapas & a drink. I gave the waiter carte blanche to choose all of it - just requested something traditional & local and no anchovies. Wow, this was a perfect tastebud dinner; he chose wisely! A very talented younger guitarist was playing beautiful music outside the Mezquita that set the tone for a relaxing walk afterwards down to the Roman bridge to enjoy the view with the historical monuments illuminated.

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Cadiz:. The last time I was in Cadiz, my husband & I had a memorable week in 2024 enjoying the Carnaval Cadiz. This was the only city that I didn’t return to last year, so it was a priority this time. I expected some emotional “remember walking here or eating here” which I feel personally is good to face. My hotel this time happened to be located a block from my favorite gelato shop in Spain! (Very thankful because the gelato in Cordoba was lacking.). Cadiz’ cute “Verde Pistachio” serves their gelato from a pistachio-colored VW camper retrofitted & placed into their shop. My Aurea Casa Palacio Sagasta Hotel felt very familiar as I walked up to it and realized that I had taken a photo of it in 2024 because the exterior is so striking. At one time it was the British Embassy building. I’m amazed that for less than $150/ night I could stay in a lovely hotel with thick, luxurious robes and special touches that aren’t a part of my normal hotel stays.

My planned activities for Cadiz besides hanging out at Verde Pistachio were a walking tour with Guruwalks, and I wanted to go into Museo de Cadiz. After checking into the hotel, I walked over to Verde Pistachio, and they were closed! Hmm, closed on Mondays. I walked over to Ciocclato at the Plaza San Juan de Dios to have a gelato at my husband’s favorite one and look up at our penthouse apartment in the building with the phoenix on top - nice memories. Then for three hours, I walked non-stop through familiar streets, along two sides of the promenade - (Cadiz juts out) and soaked up so many memories. I felt like I was being wrapped up in a warm, cozy blanket. (Smile) As James Earl Jones said in the “Field of Dreams,” …it'll be as if they'd dipped themselves in magic waters. The memories will be so thick, they'll have to brush them away from their faces." So instead of any tears, it was such a happy day!

The next day, the 2-hr Guruwalks tour was excellent. He gave five of us plenty of information without overloading us, plus shared some interesting facts - James Bond movie “Havana film sites”, historic & food info. And it’s always interesting to learn about something I’ve been seeing “but not seeing” such as the streets in the oldest part of the old center being paved with ballast rocks transported by the different ships that made commercial routes along the Atlantic Ocean. At his recommendation, I went through the free entry Roman Teatro afterwards. Museo de Cadiz is excellent and surprisingly no cost for a ticket!

My treat after all of the walking on Day 2 was heading to Verde Pistachio. Yes, it’s still a delicious “yes” if you’re in Cadiz. The waterfront promenade I saved for early evening this day is the beautiful b&w tile garden - my favorite.

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Jerez de la Frontera: I decided to spend one night here as a chance to see it while I would be on the train line. My husband & I took a day trip two years ago from Cadiz to see the horse show. I just picked it as a place to relax 1-night mid trip & enjoy a gorgeous hotel. The Maria Luisa Hotel was amazing!! Wow, what a gorgeous upscale place. My bathroom included a long counter with two marble sinks, a large shower & an elegant old clawfoot bathtub with chrome feet - a fun evening soak for this kickback agenda day,

As I was out exploring, the hotel staff left me a few taste goodies & a bottle of Jerez sherry. I didn’t want to go to one of the bogetas while in Jerez, so this was a chance to try it relaxing in my room with the balcony door open, hearing the sounds of birds in the hotel’s garden terrace below. This hotel has to be the nicest one I have stayed at in Europe for its beauty including art work in my room, the staff & the amazing breakfast. I slept so well with my balcony door open - no noise. For a mid-trip place to just relax, this was absolutely perfect!

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Sevilla: I love Sevilla where there’s so much to do, and the city is so pretty! This will be my third year in a row at Sevilla to enjoy its features & activities & 4th time here. I purchased reservations ahead of time for the Alcazar & royal rooms, two of the evening illumination shows in its garden, the flamenco museum, a massage, and a city bike tour. But first priority- walking back to Plaza de la Espana to see the rowboats & replay the 2024 video a few times of my husband’s voice humorously describing the chaotic rowing scene - such a treasure! That was one of our favorite areas in Sevilla for the beauty, people watching & spontaneous activity, such as the flamenco dancing. Last year I was in tears. This year I just felt gratitude that he could have such a fantastic time on trips together that last year. …and I did smile that this video still applies! Several people in the rowboats don’t know which direction to face or how to row.

For Sevilla, I picked a different hotel this time for fresh new memories for four days. The photos & reviews for Casa del Poeta looked excellent on Booking, and it is in a different location from the two places we’ve stayed previously. The entry & hallway into the courtyard are both very artistic- a very nice start! I was greeted warmly, given a welcome drink - I chose coffee, and he shared info including that a guitarist will be performing each evening in the gorgeous courtyard at 7:30pm. Excellent! I love classical Spanish guitar! The guitarist that first evening, along with the soft glow of a few lamps in the courtyard painted a setting that could have been years ago. It reminded me of some Spanish paintings I’ve seen in the art museums in Malaga. The music selections were a few I heard performed during Paco Seco’s intimate concert in Ronda in 2017 (& on CD’s I purchased there), plus some improvised selections. This is a special feature of this hotel that I really appreciate! I opened my 2nd floor window to the courtyard the next evening & just listened from my room with my eyes closed.

The weather turned so cold on the second day that I was really worried about being able to stay warm enough to enjoy the illumination outdoor show, but I didn’t want to miss it! Some humorous creativity & I kept warm (except hands & toes) to thoroughly enjoy an hour of walking through the Alcazar gardens for the show. My secret? Start with a 32 degree shirt, add a thick pashmina (inexpensive purchased here) tied in a crossover halter top style, add my cotton nightie, add a turtleneck sweater vest, add a cotton scarf, and finish with my lightweight rain jacket! Tucking in my nightie added a little insulation for my bottom, too - LOL! Now if they had asked for my passport inside my money belt underneath all of this, it could have been quite a reveal! Anyway, it worked; the solution addressed the issue with just a €10 pashmina.

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Day 3 began with the hotel breakfast. It’s expensive, but I wanted a decent breakfast to be ready for the 3 1/2 hr city bike tour with SeeByBike. Breakfast was a little sad because the table for 2, although set very nicely, had a coffee cup & a stemmed juice cup that were both turned over at the place setting across from me. It was just a reminder that those would stay turned over untouched because my husband is gone. It wasn’t a widow unexpected “gotcha” - just a visual reminder observation during an otherwise nice breakfast.

My husband & I did the SeeByBike in 2017 & enjoyed it. This time our itinerary looped through a few less places - mainly because some have become too crowded to try to bring a group of tourists on bikes through some narrow, busy lanes. Our guide was very engaging & humorous while helping us morph into Spanish time at stops. This one was again an excellent bike tour, and I have no hesitation recommending it. It’s a popular activity now; they had two groups of English-speaking tourists leaving at the same time.

I walked over to Rosalia’s gelato shop in the Alfalfa neighborhood to try their top-rated gelato later in the day. I picked a couple of non-typical flavors & would give it a “have one if you happen to be there” rating. As I walked into the neighborhood small plaza with a small children’s playground & restaurants, I realized one of the restaurants was part of my husband & my food tour in 2024. And walking back using my wandering method, I walked right by the Ines Rosales shop - the last stop on that food tour. I went back to my hotel to relax & sketch on the rooftop lounging area with perfect views to sketch. But as I relaxed on a full lounger, I couldn’t shake the sad “gray cloud” of missing my husband with all of the reminders that happened today, so I closed the book. My travel sketches bring back special memories afterwards so no need to add a sad one.

But, an hour later the guitarist would be in the hotel courtyard again - a very good way to end the day! A lady played this time in a beautiful side room instead of the courtyard (warmer in the room). She played beautifully - a salve over sad emotions! And a bonus - a woman in the room was traveling by herself, and she had the RS guidebook and knows about our forum. We had a nice conversation, and I told her to get a ticket for tomorrow’s illumination show. : )

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Day 4 - I relaxed this morning with coffee in my room, some breakfast bars & caught up with writing this journal. Reflecting on yesterday, having only one sad day over a 2-week trip at cities where we stayed two years ago - I’d consider that tremendous! The trip overall has been very good with very special memories that I wanted, some new activities, and a relaxing time without “must do’s”. Today’s agenda was just the Museo of Flamenco & later my 2nd reservation for the illumination show tonight.

I planned to have a late breakfast at BrunchIt again, but their line was much too long. Instead a carb overload breakfast arrived at a cafe outdoor table: Spanish omelette is a thick potato omelette & this one was served inside two pieces of homemade thick bread with an excellent, real cappuccino (comment - there’s too many nice hotels with self-serve subpar coffee machines).

The Museo del Flamenco was closed a few hours because of technical problems, so I walked over to nearby Casa del Pilato to use up some time. I’ve walked by here previously but never went inside. It’s worth it for the expansive use & variety of tile, plus a gorgeous garden! I didn’t do the additional tour upstairs.

The Museo del Flamenco is fun with lots of large video rooms, paintings, info, etc. plus while you’re looking at the art, there’s the fierce accompanying sounds of a live flamenco show on a middle level of the museum. That carb coma breakfast didn’t affect me here - LOL! The music & loud, fast footwork made the paintings & sculptures on the upper floor come alive! It really added to the whole experience of the museum pieces! As I was leaving, one of the flamenco ladies came out of her dressing room warming up her castanets. I asked permission to take her photo which pleased her. A nice finale with her professional pose!

I also wandered a bit afterwards, and tried another gelato shop. Maria Limone is a definite two thumbs up. It’s fairly close to the cathedral. I skipped my second illumination evening show because it was rainy, and I didn’t feel like dealing with wet clothes & shoes, moving locations the next morning.

I talked to a couple at breakfast the next morning from Connecticut after I saw them looking a few times at their city map a little confused. They were grateful for my assistance - didn’t know about Plaza de Espana or the illumination show. When I showed them photos, they were very thankful!

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Malaga:. I took a taxi to the bus station for the 3-hr bus to Malaga. Then I took a quick taxi from the Malaga bus station to the Soho Boutique Equitativa Hotel. It’s a sister hotel to the one I stayed at on my arrival night, and I also stayed at this one last year during the Malaga Carnaval.

Malaga was my last city for two nights, mainly to be queued up to return to the airport. Since I stayed here the last two years, my plans were just to enjoy activities that wouldn’t be triple repeats. I had reservations ahead of time to the Museo Carmen Thyssen, and the crystal glass museum would be new. Also, there’s a festival event. When I looked it up after I arrived, it’s the Malaga Film Festival!

Malaga Film Festival: I walked the red carpet! Seriously, it’s quite a length down Calle Lario, and people are walking on it. “For the film festival this year, Jean is wearing a blue & white flowered top with flared Spanish-style 3/4 sleeves. Her designer choice this year is Chicos. Navy pants and navy cut-out leather flats made in Turkey accentuate the navy theme. She’s carrying a navy ORI purse & wearing hoop earrings from a shop in Malaga to complete the ensemble.” LOL!

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Reservations:
I made all of my hotel reservations through Booking.com, except the H10 Palacio at Cordoba. The Genius discount, the discount of paying immediately and making the reservations months ahead while the exchange rate wasn’t as bad, all helped to make them less expensive than current rates. I do still bring a print out of the reservation & also the proof that I’ve paid ahead. None of the hotels were incorrect on whether I’d already paid. (A few have in previous years - hence the proof I bring.)

Transportation:
Malaga airport to hotel: metro & very short walk
Malaga-to-Cordoba: 2-hr bus (train not running)
Cordoba-to-Cadiz: 3-hr train
Cadiz-to-Jerez de la Frontera: 30-min train
JdlF-to-Sevilla: 1-hr train
Sevilla-to-Malaga: 3-hr bus (train not running to Malaga)
Malaga hotel to airport: 3:30am taxi

Favorites:
Sevilla will always be my favorite of Spain in this area! Cadiz & Malaga are tied for second. Estepona is that charming little special waterfront relaxing spot (didn’t go this year) and Cordoba has the iconic sites - a favorite city to get over jet lag.

Packing:
I packed lighter than I did last year. There were no issues except my funny story mentioned earlier. Optimistically, I packed for good weather. Clothes dried overnight when sink-washed. If I experienced the rain & damp we had in Cadiz two years ago, I might have needed a little shopping. In 2024 & 2025, I brought my Columbia fleece & a rain jacket. This time I just brought my rain jacket.

Packed & worn on plane: 2 pants, 2 long sleeve tops, 1 3/4 sleeve top, and two 32 degrees tops layer. Lightweight Columbia raincoat, tennis shoes & leather flats. Everything was fine except I needed something warmer for the first illumination show in Sevilla - temps that day were ten degrees colder than the other days.

Weather:
I monitored the weather closely the month before this trip, seeing the heavy rainstorm & flooding. During my trip, I had rain overnight at Cadiz and a light drizzle as I was leaving. The forecast for Sevilla showed zero rain, but as I was having breakfast at a cafe, it started to pour. Luckily my hotel had umbrellas because I had a ticket for the Alcazar that morning. And there was another rain dump an afternoon at Sevilla & a damp evening. Looking at each city’s forecast for the week each morning, they all had some rainy days forecasted. Cadiz’s arrival day also had 25mph winds, but it didn’t stop me from thoroughly enjoying that day.

Crowds:
Coming to Sevilla three years in a row, I noticed some increase in crowds each year. This year it was very noticeable. Prices seem higher, also, in Sevilla specifically.

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Summary of southern Spain:
My husband & I came in February 2024 because he liked a break in the winter from the Idaho snow or the gray skies of Seattle. I returned in February 2025 as a new widow. This year felt like I was putting a bow on southern Spain. Other than his joking idea of watching me wrestle a monkey for my purse at Gibraltar (I passed on that idea!), I’ve been able to complete everything hoped for during these three visits. It was such a privilege to return to places with fresh memories (Cadiz was particularly special this year), and also to make new memories. I learned more about myself & travel and how that is changing looking ahead. I might return to a city here or there in Europe that we visited, but I won’t redo an itinerary that we enjoyed together. Some memories are too special to disturb.

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What a beautiful report. Bookmarking for our trip next year. Thank you for the details, and for sharing some sweet memories with us!

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Hi Jean, Thanks for mentioning the light show at the Alcazar gardens. I just got tickets for the last day, this Sunday.

You had mentioned the light show in Seville before and I thought you were talking about the mushroom. :-) We got tickets for that one too.

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Always enjoy your trip reports Jean, it's like being there with you.

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Lovely trip report, Jean. I love how you bring your sketch book along with you and capture details in your drawings. Andalucía is beautiful.

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Thanks Jean, I'm taking notes. We just booked a 7 day cruise for October from Rome to Barcelona which will be sandwiched between time in Rome and somewhere in Spain. So far, Zaragoza, Girona and Tarragona have caught our eyes because they're close to Barcelona. But maybe we need to look at some of your stops. Or maybe plan another trip. The problem with Trip Reports are that they add to my list...

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Another wonderful trip report! Thank you for all these detailed notes, so helpful and yes as Allan mentioned, it definitely adds to the list.