We just got back from a lovely 2-week trip through southern Germany. First, many thanks to Russ and all the others who provided so much valuable advice. I thought I should post some details of our trip so that it might help others who might be planning something similar. Apologies if it’s too much info, but hopefully it will help some travelers.
We were a party of 4, all seniors ranging from 68 to 81. All reasonably fit and open to walking and wanting to see as much as possible – we did an average of 16000 steps/5 miles daily, and also climbed an average of 12 floors each day – with a max of 26000 steps/8.5 miles during a day in Munich. We did all our travel by train, except from Gengenbach (Black Forest) to Rothenburg ob der Tauber and on to Munich – we rented a car at Offenburg (no car rentals in Gengenbach), since there were no convenient trains.
Itinerary
Day1: Fly London to Frankfurt, arrive around 11 am. Train to Boppard from airport, arrive around 2:40 PM (bought a QDL train ticket, 73 euros for 4 of us). Evening in Koblenz (old town, Deutsche Eck) and walk around Boppard
Day 2: Boppard to Cochem by train (using the VRM guest pass), then by bus to Beilstein from Cochem. Strangely very hard to find info on travel to Beilstein. At the DB info at Cochem station they were unaware of any Beilstein clos by, wanted me to go to Beilstein in Grefienstein (which is the Beilstein in the app). The tourist office pointed us to the bus. Cochem was nice, but Beilstein was absolutely beautiful.
Day 3 Boppard to St Goar by train. Quick walk around the town (really not that special, the world’s largest cuckoo clock a little disappointing). Ferry across the Rhine St Goarhausen, then train to Rudesheim. Very beautiful although touristy. Took the chair lift up to the Germania monument, beautiful views. Walk down if possible. K-D river cruise back to St Goar, with a 2 hour stop in Bacharach – lovely.
Day 4 Train Boppard to Hatzenport, then bus to Burg Elz. Lots of flooded towns on the way. Burg Elz definitely worth a visit.
Day 5 Train Boppard to Gengenbach (QDL ticket). Evening train to/from Haslach – very pretty
Day 6 Train to Triberg and Freiberg
Day 7 Titisee, Schluchsee and Donaueschengen
Day 8 Schiltach, Durbach. Definitely the prettiest towns in the Black Forest
Day 9 Train Gengenbach to Offenburg, pickup rental car and drive to Heidelberg, 2-3 hour stop, (university was disappointing, town is nice), then drive to Rothenburg. Absolutely beautiful town. Did the Nightwatchman tour, very entertaining.
Day 10. Walk Rothenburg including on the wall. Afternoon drive to Munich.
Day 11 Train to Mittenwald (stunning), back to Garmsich and up to Zugspitze. Garmsich nothing special but the ride up to Eibsee (lake) very beautiful. Did not go all the way to the top. Bayern ticket
Day 12 Day trip train to Salzburg. Bayern ticket
Day 13 Munich – walk the old town, English Garden, Karlsplatz, beer gardens.
Day 14 Train to Dachau, guided tour of the camp. MVV day group ticket M+1 zones.
Day 15 Morning walk Au-Haidhausen. Afternoon flight Munch to London.