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Solo trip to London and Paris

This was a solo trip with 1 week in London followed by 1 week in Paris. The goal of this trip was to rediscover some favorites and find some new ones.

Long story short, I had a blast.

London March 24-31

After arriving into Heathrow Airport Terminal 3 just before 10am, I made my way through the e-Gates at immigration and on to the Piccadilly Line to Gloucester Road Station using my phone to tap in and out. I was at my hotel by 11:30.

The Bailey's Hotel is in a great location across from the Gloucester Rd Station with the Circle, District and Piccadilly Lines and nearby bus stops for several different routes. Many takeaway shops, a couple of pubs and a few grocery stores are within a few minutes walk.

I had booked a classic double room at a rate of £169/nt without breakfast. The quiet and comfortable room was a good size for one person, but would have been too cozy for a couple. The room came with a Nespresso coffee maker, refrigerator and AC. Plenty of hot water in the walk-in shower with nice towels and bed linens. Coffee, tea, milk pods, cookies and bottled water were replenished daily. Staff at the hotel were always pleasant and helpful.

Prebooked

  • Westminster Abbey and Queen's Galleries
  • The Goya to Impressionism exhibit at the Courtauld Gallery
  • Around the World in 90 minutes tour at the British Museum
  • The Sky Garden
  • 2 Musicals - Six and Hamilton
  • London Walks' Hampstead Village & Heath Walking Tour

Highlights
The weather was delightful the week of my stay. Flowers and trees were blooming and only about 3 drops of rain the entire week. So some plans were tossed aside to take advantage of the many parks and gardens. I spent time wandering around Bloomsbury, Mayfair, Hyde Park & Kensington Gardens, the South Bank, Hampstead and St. James’s Park which quickly became my favorite and required multiple visits.

I hadn't been inside Westminster Abbey in years. The Verger tour was excellent and easy to book onsite within minutes of my 9:30 admission. The view of the nave from the Queen's Galleries was worth the climb, but next time I would take the elevator. Later in the week I attended Evensong. With the downloadable program and tv monitors it felt a bit too megachurch experience for me. Maybe sitting in a better location where I could see everything directly would have felt different.

I absolutely loved everything about the musical Hamilton-the set, the music, the choreography, the story telling. I was in the 1st row of the Royal Circle/1st balcony at the Victoria Palace Theatre and my view was excellent.

The British Museum tour was a good way to see the highlights of the museum, some a revisit and some new to me. We had a group of 20 and the guide kept us moving using headsets so you could always hear him among the crowds. The museum was very popular with school groups on the day of my visit.

After enjoying a ride on a vintage Routemaster bus as part of the Route 19 Heritage Day, Saturday was devoted to a meander along the South Bank of the Thames with views of London old and new. The weather was spectacular and I believe I was joined by half of London. I started at Westminster Bridge and ended just short of Tower Bridge with several stops including Southwark Cathedral, Winchester Palace and a couple pubs.

London Walks’ Hampstead Village & Heath Walk was the start of my Sunday in the country. Excellent guide and interesting walk with beautiful views. We were a group of over 25 even with a couple of no-shows. When our 2 hour walk stretched to an extra 45 minutes, I ubered to The Spaniards Inn arriving just in time for my lunch reservation. Afterwards I toured Kenwood House and then walked back to Hampstead through the Heath. Once in town, I stopped for a drink at the packed Holly Bush and then returned to St. John’s at Hampstead Church for Evensong before heading back to the city.

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680 posts

Favorite meals

Dishoom at Covent Garden. I booked a pre-theater reservation for 5:30 and was seated closer to 6. The food was fabulous, especially the Black Daal and I'm not usually a lentil fan. I now see why it is so popular with many posters on the forum. Dishoom was the best for both food and service of the 2 Indian restaurants I tried during my week.

The Ship's Tavern has a beautiful dining room, friendly service and good food, but on the pricey side.

Victoria House Coffee and Food in Bloomsbury near the British Museum had wonderful service and great breakfast choices, reservations needed.

Huffkins Oxford Street Cafe at John Lewis was a perfect midday break for a savory cheese scone with tomato chutney.

Favorite Pubs
The Blackfriar and The Anchor

Cash or Card
Many places only accepted cards. The only cash I used during my week in London was at a Laundromat near Earl's Court, £6 to wash, £1 per 9 minutes of dry and the collection plate at St. John's

I paid my London Walks tour by card, but the guide was worried his contactless reader wouldn't work. Most of the group paid with cash.

Eurostar London to Paris

I took the Piccadilly Line from my hotel to King's Cross Station and walked the few minutes to St. Pancras Station to check-in for my 11:30am Eurostar train to Paris. Thanks to Denny's January post about a flash sale, I was able to book a standard seat for only £35. Security and Passport Control for UK and France moved along. The waiting area was a bit crowded due to a delay with the Brussels bound train, but not unbearable and the train ride was quiet and comfortable. Shortly after the train came out of the tunnel in France, I received a notification from the Citymapper app “Welcome to Paris, Jean”.

Paris March 31-April 7

On arrival at Gare du Nord, I stopped at one of the machines and loaded the weekly pass onto my Navigo Découverte card before boarding the metro. The weekly pass is one of the best deals in Paris. And I like having the physical card instead of pulling out my phone to tap in.

The Hotel du Jeu du Paume
is a lovely hotel on the Ile Saint-Louis. It's less than a 15 minute walk from the RER B station at St. Michel-Notre Dame or Metro line 4 at Cité. Metro line 7 at Pont Marie and several handy bus routes are less than a 5 minute walk. The island has several cafes and restaurants and shops and a bridge away from the right or left banks as well as Notre Dame.

I stayed here 2 years ago and loved it. By booking early I was able to get the classic single room for €188/night without breakfast. The room is quiet and comfortable with an almost queen size bed and walk-in shower. The room has a kettle, fridge, robe & slippers with nice linens and towels. The staff is friendly and helpful and everyday I was greeted by the sweet hotel dog, Lemon, except on the weekend when he went to his country house in Normandy. What a life Lemon has!

Prebooked

  • Sainte-Chapelle
  • Evening Concert at Sainte-Chapelle
  • The Pantheon & Panorama
  • Hotel de la Marine
  • Notre Dame
  • Musee d'Orsay

Passion Monuments Subscription

I purchased the solo subscription for €45 the first year. There's even greater savings with the duo subscription. The pass offers free unlimited admission to several sites in Paris and throughout France, including cut the line/skip the line at various sites. It also gives discounts on select cultural events. With the pass I saved €30 on my concert ticket and was admitted free at Sainte-Chapelle, Arc de Triomphe, the Pantheon with Panorama and Hotel de la Marine.

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680 posts

Highlights
Again, absolutely gorgeous weather for strolling through the Squares and Gardens including Luxembourg and the Tuileries with so much in bloom. One day was spent in the 17e around the Batignolles area.

I made 3 visits to Notre Dame, the first was to see the magnificent restored cathedral, all bright and shining. Next was to attend the Veneration of the Crown. And my favorite visit, Sunday Vespers. A relatively short service that is mostly sung.

I made a sunlit morning visit to Sainte-Chapelle. My pass allowed me to jump the security line on so I was one of the first inside the empty chapel. Later, I enjoyed an evening concert with the windows gleaming at the start of the concert and darkened by the end. The atmosphere inside the chapel with the dim “candlelights” and the music was enchanting.

I had not been to The Pantheon in many years, so it was nice to revisit. I had never been to the Panorama before. The views were spectacular, the 206 steps not so much. Then it was back down and to the crypt. So much history everywhere. And poor Voltaire, his remains here and there.

Last day in Paris was a Sunday, my lazy day. After checking out of my hotel, I headed directly to the 5th floor of the Musee d'Orsay to revisit their fantastic Impressionists collection. Then a relaxing lunch at Le Recamier and a bit of shopping. Then a final visit to Notre Dame to attend Vespers. This was followed by some oysters and wine before reclaiming my stored bag and taking the RER B line to Roissypole.

Overnight at CDG

I booked my last night at the Novotel CDG at the airport. A 2 minute walk from the RER station and a short CDG Val train ride to Terminal 2 for my flight the next morning. Comfortable, quiet and a nice breakfast.

Favorite meals

Hestia, open less than a year, is a fabulous restaurant on one of the tackiest streets in Paris. Service was outstanding. Dinner began with a dish of olives and 2 amuse bouches and ended with mignardises. Everything in between was delicious and the dining room was lively.

Bistrot Paul Bert’s Boeuf au Poivre comes with a beautifully spiced sauce just made for dipping frites. I noticed everyone around me joined the clean platte club.

Huguette taught me that I like oysters. A few Utah Beach oysters along with crusty bread and a glass of wine make a perfect meal. They always treat me well.

Le Recamier’s terrace is a lovely place for lunch with a Spritz St. Germaine on a sunny afternoon.

Cash or card
Mostly card with the exception of some sandwich places including Le Petit Vendome and a purchase at the Edgar Quintet market. However, many more places also accepted cash than in London.

Departure
I was connecting through London Heathrow on my return. Upon checking my bag at CDG the BA agent asked if I had my ETA, which, of course, is not needed for transiting London. My 2 hour connection with transfer from Terminal 5 to Terminal 3 was relatively painless. I even had time to swing by the lounge before boarding my American Airlines flight home.

Thank you to all the posters who made suggestions or posted their experiences to help me plan my trip. I really appreciate the kindness and wisdom of the forum members.

Posted by
9578 posts

Jeanm, lovely trip report! I'm sorry we didn't get a chance to meet up in London, which would have been so fun! Your trip really sounds wonderful. I'm hoping to get back to both places as a solo in the near future. I loved traveling with the kids, but there's nothing like a solo trip, especially in Paris!

Posted by
585 posts

Hestia, open less than a year, is a fabulous restaurant on one of the tackiest streets in Paris.

I read this sentence and before looking it up, already knew exactly which street you were talking about! It's quite surprising to me to see a restaurant of this caliber on that street, but a great find!

Posted by
4572 posts

Lovely trip you had. I too need to get back to Paris and London. It’s so easy to take the train how can you not visit both.

Posted by
667 posts

So many tips and recommendations, another wonderful trip report. I’m bookmarking and I thank you for writing it for us, a great resource.

Posted by
1811 posts

Bookmarking. I am thinking of spending a few days in Paris after I attend workshops in Berlin, and I want to stay on Isle St. Louis. That's where my family and I stayed before, and I thought it was a brilliant location.

A comment you made seemed very poetic to me, inspiring rhyming haiku:

Alas, poor Voltaire.
His remains are here and there.
Though he'd savoir faire.

(Had to edit it, because I realized I'd mixed up the haiku count.)

Posted by
6472 posts

Jeanm
, I'm bookmarking this report , thanks so much, it's well-written and in a great format. One question regarding your Paris hotel- you name one hotel you stayed in, then named another hotel under pre-booking. I'm missing something here, pls explain to my muddled brain.
I'm so happy you had great weather, so I'm assuming you recommend this time of year. We are going next spring, so are debating mid-April or early May.
Thanks again for including so much practicals and valuable info.
Where next?

Posted by
1049 posts

That’s a great hotel price for a Nespresso and a fridge. Bookmarking Bailey’s for future consideration.

Posted by
2227 posts

I'm so enjoying your trip report of my 2 favorite cities. I will bookmark this for future trips. Thank you. I was going to try to go this year, but I may have to have a hip replacement. I was hoping to travel after last years knee replacement, but it seems that may have been the final straw for that hip. Lucky me.

Posted by
1289 posts

What a great, well researched Trip Report, thank you! Have bookmarked especially for the excellent hotels, sounds like good prices with those extras including fridges, and the many recommended places to eat. You've enticed me to move Paris back up the list (other destinations had bumped it down). Thanks again!

Posted by
680 posts

Mardee
Thanks. Yes, it would have been fun to meet up. After reading your trip report, I think we were at the British Museum around the same time! And while I love traveling with my husband, friends and family, solo travel is such a luxury. You can be totally selfish the entire trip.

Andrew
Yes, I had my doubts. The manager laughed when I asked him why Rue de la Huchette. He and his partner, the former head chef from a Michelin starred restaurant, told me thi timing was perfect for them and they new they could make it work. And he seems to be right. Surprisingly, most of my fellow diners that night were French.

Barbara
Thank you, The Eurostar has certainly made getting between the 2 cities so much easier.

Luv2Travel
I'm glad it's helpful, thanks.

BB
Yes, Ile Saint-Louis is a great location. And your Haiku is so clever! Thank you.

Pat
Sorry for the confusion on hotels. When I booked the Hotel du Jeu de Paume the single room with a walk-in shower was not available for all 7 nights, only rooms with bathtubs. And, being 5’2”, I hate getting in and out of tall European tubs. So I decided to book 6 nights with the shower and stay at the airport my last night. Which was actually nice since I didn't have to rush the morning of my flight home.

Regarding April or May, I wasn't expecting the weather to be so nice. My original packing list included more sweaters and my down vest. The day before I left, I pulled out the vest and swapped 2 sweaters for tees. There’s no predicting the weather. In September 2023 we were in London with 90 degrees.

Where next? Husband mentioned Panama Canal the other day.

Golden Girl

Yes, I thought I got a great deal. It required advance purchase, but the savings was significant and really worked to my advantage with the dollar falling.

Laurie Beth

Oh, fingers crossed everything works out for you and you get to travel soon. Thanks.

Sandancisco
Thanks, Paris is hard to resist and this was the best London trip I've ever had.

Posted by
3815 posts

Lovely report!
I’m envious that Lemon has a country house in Normandy. ;))

Posted by
3321 posts

Thanks jeanm for a great trip report! I'll be using a few of your London suggestions for June trip.

Posted by
15707 posts

What a wonderful time you had! Both excellent locations for a solo traveler. There is so much to see and do and yes, when you are solo you can be completely selfish and just go to what you are wanting to see!

I'm with Andrew on the street for one of your favorite meals. Surprising...maybe they will turn the street around. It's certainly in a great location.

Thanks for taking the time to post!

Posted by
274 posts

Wonderful trip report and very well written. Makes me want to hop on a plane right away!

Posted by
3078 posts

Loved reading your report! I will toast it with a St. Germaine spritz ;-)

Also, the Kenwood House is gem, so I'm psyched that you found some good dining nearby, not easy to do.

Posted by
2227 posts

I forgot to add that Six and Hamilton are my current favorite musicals. I'm hoping this means I'm not really an old fogey.

Posted by
10828 posts

One question regarding your Paris hotel- you name one hotel you stayed in, then named another hotel under pre-booking. I'm missing something here, pls explain to my muddled brain.

Pat - the second "hotel" she mentioned in the list of things she pre-booked was the Hotel de la Marine, which is a site you can visit, a magnificent building on the place de la Concorde ( and the former headquarters of the French Navy, thus its being named Marine).

The word "hotel" in French doesn't just mean, like we think of, an establishment with rooms where you pay to stay overnight. Hotel in this sense means the separate building, so the Hotel de la Marine is The Navy Building.. It's quite spectacular

https://www.hotel-de-la-marine.paris/en

Posted by
680 posts

SJ
Yes, that beautiful dog has the best life!

Horsewoofie
Glad I could help. Enjoy your trip!

Pam
Thank you. I remember going to Rue de la Huchette in my early 20s for cheap eats. I hope Hestia continues to be a success, better food and service than some Michelin restaurants I've dined at.

MapLady
Thank you, I'm with you on the plane to Paris!

avirosemail
Thanks, I was lucky to get a table at The Spaniards Inn. I was there on Mothering Sunday and restaurants were starting to be booked up in mid January.

Laurie Beth
Well, if you're an old fogey, then I guess I am, too. I just loved Hamilton.

Kim
Thanks for catching that. Pat's question went completely over my head.

And yes, the Hotel de la Marine is gorgeous with a wonderful view of the Place de la Concorde from the loggia.

Posted by
211 posts

Oh did I enjoy reading this! So many things, but especially Lemon The Dog (I had a Lemon The Cat!) and "poor Voltaire, his remains here and there" lol.

Posted by
680 posts

Hannah

Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed my report. And you had Lemon the cat, how adorable!

Posted by
145 posts

Welcome home! Sounds like a lovely trip. Our Paris trips overlapped, and yes, the weather was so nice. I loved Luxemborgh gardens. Great job on the Passions Monuments subscription.

Posted by
680 posts

pbscd

Thanks, I'm glad you were able to enjoy the beautiful weather and Luxembourg Gardens, also. We really were lucky, weren't we?

And, yes, the Passion Monuments Subscription was definitely worth it. I'm surprised it's not mentioned on the forum.

Posted by
702 posts

Jean, thank you so much for sharing your trip experiences and suggestions. I am starting to learn about how to best travel to Paris. I saved the Passion Monuments subscription info in particular. There will be three of us going together, so the duo price looks very appealing. We will be there for a week hopefully, so the places you listed will also be on our list. I would thoroughly enjoy a service or concert in Notre Dame. I could see us going back there multiple times, too. So glad you had an enjoyable trip! Thanks again.

Posted by
680 posts

Mustlovedogs

Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful. The Passion Monuments subscription was a real bargain for me, especially with the huge savings on my concert ticket at Sainte-Chapelle.

For staying a week in Paris, another great deal is the all zone weekly pass for bus and metro. Currently €31.60 per person for unlimited travel from Monday to Sunday. It even includes Versailles and CDG airport. Enjoy your planning!

The wealth of information shared on this forum is amazing, isn't it?

Posted by
1 posts

How does the Passion Membership work for pre-booking tickets? I tried to figure it out through their website, but am still confused.

Posted by
680 posts

Kennedyotoole,

Just start the booking process for tickets. When you get to the page with all the ticket options, it will either list the Passion Monuments option or you will need to click the arrow under "free visit to the monument" for a drop down of how the free admission is booked.

For example with Sainte-Chapelle you'll see that holders of Passion Monuments need to select "I already have a ticket".

Arc de Triomphe website tells you no need to reserve, just present your pass directly at the monument. Go to the security line, not the ticket line.

For the Pantheon, you choose the option for Pantheon and Panorama.

Hope this helps you

Posted by
192 posts

OK....since we're staying in the 6th I'll be making reservations at Hestia.

Posted by
680 posts

gparvin

Please, don't just take my word for it. Do a Google search for Hestia Paris reviews and see what others have to say before you book.