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Solo trip July 2019 - North Holland, South Holland, Flanders, Brussels.

Tuesday, July 2, 2019: My flight from Detroit to Amsterdam left at 10:47pm. Wednesday, July 3, 2019: Took the bus from Schiphol airport to Leidsplein. From there my hostel was 500 yards away. I dropped my stuff off just before 3 pm local time and began to walk on Leidsegracht and then on various streets. I ate a recipe containing brown rice from a place called “Wok to Walk”. I ate that same thing 3 more times in Amsterdam, I had Chicken and yellow rice in an argentine restaurant called “La Estancia” on Reguliersdwarsstraat 86, in Amsterdam, and I had fried rice with chicken once at a Chinese restaurant in Antwerp. The rest of my food, I bought from grocery stores.

July 4, 2019: Went to the Anne Frank house in Amsterdam. The place has nicely been turned into a museum. The rooms Anne Frank and 7 others hid in were behind the building her father had had a business selling spices and pickle and jelly making supplies. You enter through modern glass doors where the business or an adjacent building was. They have a coat check desk. The original furniture or replicas is not present, as her father wanted the museum to look. I don’t think this is the most important holocaust or nazi era genocide related site. For that you will need to go to the remains of a concentration or death camp or maybe the site of a mass shooting. After the Anne Frank house I went to the Portuguese synagogue. The Portuguese synagogue in Amsterdam was completed in 1675. The sanctuary has never been updated with electricity or heating. The rooms surrounding the sanctuary building, containing offices, a smaller chapel, and storage rooms, have been subtly been updated with heat and electricity. Every Friday and/or when they have classical chamber music concerts in the sanctuary, the room is illuminated by hundreds of candles.

Then I went to the Jewish museum. After the Jewish museum I ate the stir fry recipe with brown rice. Then I went to the royal palace. I showed up at 4pm and I wish I had shown up at 3:45 or 3:30. The palace closes at 5pm. I had the audio guide. Then I went bodies world just because it was there and all the highbrow normal museums - except for the major art museums, but I had tickets to 2 of them for the next day - closed at 5pm. Bodies world had a blood pressure cuff – I tried it and took it off when it got too tight and the number read “200” and I suspect my blood pressure is too high and I don’t know what to do about it yet.

On Friday, July 5th, I went to the Reijksmuseum and the Van Gogh museum. The Reijksmuseum is an art museum not bigger than the Detroit Institute of Art; a large percent of the place (half to 2/3?) is old Dutch paintings; The other works include models of ships, old firearms, old Delftware porcelain, an Asian wing I missed, a floor for modern works I missed, few old musical instruments, other random sculpture and silver objects, and so on.

I am not necessarily a fan of Van Gogh and blurry impressionist paintings and I went to the Van Gogh museum just to say I saw it. There was one Van Gogh land scape painting that seemed to take place in the late evening, in stormy weather and part of the clouds vaguely resembled fists. That is not the official description. It is just my personal judgment.

I had bought tickets for both places in advance. Tickets for the Van Gogh have a given time. You can’t enter sooner than 15 minutes in advance. You can’t get in without already having a ticket in hand when you arrive. The Reijksmuseum tickets have no given entrance time. You could buy them at the last minute but the guidebooks strongly suggest getting them online in advance to avoid extremely long lines. I showed up before 9 am so I would get in when they opened. 20 people were in line in front of me. The place was half or less as crowded as the Uffizi in Florence, Italy.

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On Saturday, July 6, 2019 I took the train to Haarlem. There was a farmers market in the town square right next to the town hall – card tables under white tents, vendors selling produce, some other foods, towels, socks, and possibly other stuff. I wasn’t there for this market. It was just there. I bought some dates and peanuts, even though some opinions say peanuts are not healthy. I ate a few of the date while sitting on a bench across the road from a canal, while waiting for the Frans Hals museum ot open at 11am. I bought combo tickets for the Frans Hals museum, and the Teylers museum, from the tourist information office in the town hall. That is something the guide books suggest. The Frans Hals (1582 - August 1666) was a Dutch painter who painted mostly or all portraits, individuals or group portraits. The museum is named after Frans Hals. It has some Frans Hals paintings and stuff by other artists. The place entertained me for about 2-1/2 hours.

Then I went to the Teylers museum. Normally I wouldn’t visit science related museums, but part of the building is from 1778; guidebook writers recommend this place. One room has old Rembrandt prints, two rooms have old Dutch paintings, other rooms are old with wood and glass cases stuffed full of fossils, minerals, and scientific instruments and early gadgets I didn’t travel to the Netherlands to see. The English audio guide was quite good and essential.

I walked past the De Adriaan windmill. It is a reconstruction built in 2002. The original windmill burned down in 1932. It took me some effort to find it. I just had the paper map I bought at the tourist information office for fifty Euro cents. My cell had quit working the same day of my flight to Amsterdam. I got my phone fixed after returning to Michigan. I took the phone to the cell phone store. I had to go to a second store to buy a new power cable and to a 3rd store to buy a new battery. But I don’t get disoriented or lost easily, because I am not spatially dyslexic, because of genetic accident. Plenty of people are as good as me at directions and finding places.

Haarlem on the Saturday I was there, at least early in the day and on the streets I walked on, had a nice, quiet ambience compared to Amsterdam.

Sunday, July 7, 2019:
I went to the Rembrandt house in Amsterdam. Saw two demonstrations inside the house – a demonstration of how he carved drawings into sheets of metal, applied ink to the metal, put it and paper in a hand operated press and made copies. The other demonstration was how painters used to mix powdered pigments with oil to make paints.

Then I took a narrated boat ride on the canals. It was an open boat instead of the kind with a glass roof – I thought the view would be better in an open boat, but at the beginning 3 women friends at one end of the boat were smoking. Many smokers are the most obnoxious, bad mannered people, just not caring that their smoke goes everywhere and everybody around them will smell the fumes; non-smokers do not care what the source of the smoke is – tobacco, marijuana, what difference should it make? A smoke stench is still a smoke stench no matter what the source is.

Then Saw the Willet Holthuysen museum – a house where a rich family used to live that has been turned into a museum.

Then I ate the chicken and yellow rice in an Argentine restaurant (La Estancia at Reguliersdwarsstraat 86). I found the place by accident.

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Monday, July 8, 2019:
Took the train to The Hague. Checked into my hostel, put my stuff in their luggage storage room. Went to the tourist information office. I found out they had a tour of parts of the Ridderzal – originally castle that has been turned into part of the Binnenhof (the Dutch parliament buildings), at 4pm. I went to the Panorama Mesdag and then came back for the tour. Later I bought an small alarm clock and radio, powered by 2 AA batteries, to compensate for my cell phone not working.

Tuesday, July 9, 2019:
Went to the Mauritshuis, another art museum. It entertained me for 3 hours. They had gathered all their Rembrandt paintings into a two-room exhibition. Then went to “Escher in Het Palace”, a museum about the Dutch artist M.C. Escher. Copies of many of his drawings are on display. The building is or was otherwise known as the Lange Voorhout Palace.

Then I went to the Bredius collection, a rather small art museum in a house. They should combine this collection with it with the Mauritshuis, or at least have them jointly administered and/or they should just sell one joint ticket for both museums. Abraham Bredius was a director of the Mauritshuis. I wish I had seen the Prince V gallery.

Then I took the tram to the pier at Scheveningen. I rode the Ferris wheel at the end of the pier. It cost 9 Euros. Then walked past the International Peace Palace. Then took the tram back to the hostel.

The Ferris wheel rotated 5 times. Half the view was just the ocean. The other half was the pier, the beach, and the strip with shopping, restaurants, and at least one hotel.

Wednesday, July 10, 2019:
Took the tram to Delft. Got off at the stop near the Prinsenhof. First went to the tourist information office to see if they had a guided tour. They had a tour starting at 12, noon. I went to the Jan Vermeer center – a small museum dedicated to the painter Jan Vermeer. They have copies of all 37 known Vermeer paintings on display. Then I returned to the tourist information office for the tour. First there was a narrated boat tour on the canals, but this time the boat had a glass roof and I didn’t smell any cigarette (or marijuana) smoke. The boat passed by the synagogue, later I walked past it. It was completed in 1862. It was a reformed temple. I looked up some information. 12 Jews returned to Delft just after World War II. The building was renovated in 2002. Currently it is used as a Jewish Cultural Center (whatever that means), with occasional services being held.

After the narrated boat ride was the walking part of the tour (it would be possible to buy tickets for just the boat tour only, from the booth where the boat tour begins and ends). Then I went to the windmill – they let visitors climb ladders inside up to near the top and they let visitors walk onto the balcony of the windmill. There is no given price. They have donation boxes, and a little store on the ground level. Then went to the Prinsenhof museum. That is the place where William of Orange or William the silent was assassinated. Also they had an exhibit on Dutch masters of the music industry (concert organizers), which I barley glanced at. It was raining for most of the day.

After the Prinsenhof, I walked past the synagogue, went around looking for food, bought a prepared recipe from a grocery store, tried eating it outside with my fingers outside a church on a bench, then got on the tram at the nearest stop, near outside the train station instead of by the Prinsenhof.

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Thursday, July 11, 2019:
Today it was time to check out of my hostel in The Hague and move on to Antwerp. I bought a ticket that cost me ten euros, from a machine in the train station, but on the train I had to pay an extra 18 euros. The conductor said something about having the wrong ticket. I guess that’s the last time I buy train tickets from a machine if there is an employee at a ticket counter I can buy my ticket from.

I stayed in another hostel. I wish I had chosen a hotel room. The other people were fine. The layout and amenities were poor. I’ll review my logging places later.

After dropping my stuff off at the hostel, I went to the Rubens House, an art museum dedicated to Peter Paul Rubens, a painter who lived from June 1577 – May 1640. The building was his house and studio. Then I went to the museum Mayer van den Berg, another small art museum containing the artworks collected by Mayer van den Berg. Then I walked into the botanical gardens – it is a small place. The outdoor area was open until 8pm. I missed the cactus house, which closed at 5:45. I walked along a street in the Jewish neighborhood. I don’t rationally know why this should be so special. I bought a package of salt free rice cakes in a little kosher store just to see if the lady at cash register knew Yiddish. She did but she was not impressed with me. I am a stranger to her, I am a man, I am non-observant, and so on.

Then I rode the Ferris wheel, owned and/or operated by (the) Antwerp Zoo, outside the entrance to the zoo, between the Zoo entrance and the train station. I skipped seeing the Zoo.

Friday, July 12, 2019:
I joined a “Free” walking tour of parts of the middle of Antwerp. Whenever you join a “free” tour, you have to thank the guide and give him or her 11 to 20 Euros, at the end, so you will not seem like a freeloading, poor-mannered embarrassment, so people will not think all Americans are like you, or worse, and so on.

Then went to the Plantin-Moretus house, a museum about the Plantin-Moretus printing house, containing the two oldest known hand-operated printing presses, many early printed books, and so on. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005. Then walked to the Museum aan de Stroom, just to see the rooftop observation area – the rest of the place closes at 5pm. I skipped seeing the museum on this trip.

Saturday, July 13, 2019:
I went to the breakfast in the basement of the hostel, but ate my own food. Met a guy who was not older than me but could have been 10 or more years younger. He is from Oregon. He is a car mechanic, but every so often he quits his job and goes to Europe for about 2-1/2 months, returns and looks for another job.

The first place I went to was the Snyders-Rockox house museum. It was originally two separate houses right next to each other. They give you a tablet computer you can point at a painting to get information about it; you have so tell the staff you want the English version. The next place I went was the Red Star Line emigration museum. The building is the place emigrants got on Red Star Line boats, to come to the USA or Canada. Then I went to Antwerp’s the China town and had the some restaurant food.

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Sunday, July 14, 2014, 2019:
I took the train to Brussels. My first museums after dropping my stuff off in a locker in my hotel were the Old Masters museum, and the Fin de Siecle museum. The Royal museum of Fine art has 3 collections – you get the option of buying tickets to just one, two, or all three. That evening I walked past the Mannequin Pis statue, characters from a comic series painted on the wall of a building, walked on some of the crowded paths lined with souvenir stores, Belgian junk food stores, bars, and so on. There are enough places that sell Belgian waffles, Belgian fried potatoes (I understand that in Belgium you are not supposed to call them French fries), Belgian chocolate, Belgian beer, mussels, and so on. Like in the Netherlands, if you think wheat is bad for you, there is not much food restaurant food that seems like it should be healthy enough.

Monday, July 15, 2019:
Took the train to Ghent. Following the advice in Rick Steve’s Belgium guidebook, after getting off the train at Sint Peters station, I took the tram to Kornmarkt. That is where Rick starts his self-guided walking tour. But I wanted to go to the tourist information office to see if they had a map and/or a guided tour. So I walked around until I figured out where the office was. I tried asking but this might not have helped. If I had knew what I know now, I would have stayed on the tram longer and gotten off at the stop by the Gravensteen Castle, which is across the street and from and right near the tourist information office. This would have been a good place to start walking if there had been no guided tour.

I signed up for and joined an English guided tour led by a knowledgeable lady who seemed to be 70 to 80 years old. Before the tour I went to the Ghent Design Museum. I would have been as happy if I had skipped it. Displays included chairs, furniture, experiments in new building materials including a horribly revolting display consisting of growing fungus on rolls of toilet paper supported by bamboo rods, and a horrifying constantly playing recording of a cow’s heart. The guide thoroughly explained the Ghent Alterpiece (also called Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, or Het Lam Gods), showing us the copy of it – I don’t pay attention to any religion now, if that makes you feel better, if you are thinking that a church is the last place a nice Jewish boy should visit.

After the tour I went to the Gravensteen, a Castle, paid the entrance fee, and got the English audio guide. I didn’t quite have enough time before they closed. I wish I had showed up in Ghent earlier, found the tourist information office just after they opened, signed up for the tour, and seen the Castle before the tour and instead of the design museum. The current castle was completed in 1180, last restored in 1893-1903.

Tuesday, July 16, 2019:
Today it was time go to the train station in Brussels, buy a ticket to the airport, and catch my flights home. My first flight left at 11:05am, the time the plane was supposed to leave.

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So happy to see you have successfully completed another adventure, Mike L.!!!
I liked the detail in your report.