Solo in Copenhagen and Stockholm (May 2026)--My Trip Report

TRANSPORTATION TO AND FROM THE CAPITAL CITIES: Because I was traveling with luggage, I booked first-class tickets for the train journey between Copenhagen and Stockholm. As the direct trains between the two cities are temporarily suspended, there was a train change in Malmo, Sweden. The train journey was about 5.5 hours long. It did start to feel a little long by the fourth hour, but I still think it was a better option than flying. One thing I found surprising was that my tickets were never checked on either long-distance train.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION WITHIN THE CITIES: I found the public transportation in both cities to be more confusing than that of London and Vienna. I used the Citymapper app for both cities.

In Copenhagen, I found the signage inside the stations to be a little confusing. For example, signs for the M3 and M4 would show arrows pointing straight ahead and then also down. So, there were times when I was like, do I keep walking, or do I go down the escalator. And then for my day trips, I had to take the metro and then a train, which involved exiting the metro station to walk to and enter the train station. I did get the hang of it after a while. I just didn’t have that immediate “this is easier than I was expecting” feeling like I had in London and Vienna.

In Stockholm, I only took the metro once and then gave up, opting for a taxi back to the train station when it was time to head back to Copenhagen. When I arrived in Stockholm, the walk from the train station to the metro was so long and involved multiple levels. Again, I found the signage a little confusing. And when I made it to the metro stop nearest my hotel, Kungsträdgården, I apparently did not exit the closet exit to my hotel and ended up walking longer than expected. I’m sure if I had used it a few more times, I would have gotten the hang of it. Again, it was missing that feeling of “this is pretty easy.”

So, my best advice is to allow yourself more time than usual to navigate the stations.

CITY CARDS: I purchased the city cards for both cities, not because I expected them to save me a lot of money, but because I thought they would be convenient and eliminate the need to purchase tickets in advance.

I had the 96-hour Discover Card for each of my two stays in Copenhagen and the 4-day Go City card for Stockholm.

https://copenhagencard.com/

https://gocity.com/en/stockholm

The Copenhagen card included public transportation within the city area, which included transportation to all my day trips. The Stockholm card included no public transportation.

Both cards were easy to purchase. I downloaded the apps on my phone and purchased that way and the QR codes you just need to show from your phone.

One thing that surprised me was that neither card worked quite the way I expected. Based on the marketing, I assumed the cards would replace the need for tickets at most attractions. In reality, many attractions still required me to exchange the QR code for a ticket or stand in line to have the QR code scanned before receiving admission. So, they were not quite as convenient as I had expected. Fortunately, the lines were generally short, so it was not a major inconvenience.

I would definitely get the Copenhagen Card again because of the included public transportation, which I used extensively. However, I would probably skip the Stockholm card on a future trip because I did not get enough value from it to justify the cost.

WEATHER/EARLY SUNRISE TIME: I still can't believe how lucky I have been with the weather on my trips. I keep waiting for that one trip where my luck runs out and I have horrible weather. This was not that trip.

The weather was fantastic! It was a little cool, with temperatures in the 50s, when I arrived in Copenhagen, which is exactly how I like it. Then, when I moved on to Stockholm, it started to warm up, with temperatures mostly in the 60s and 70s for the rest of the trip. I did have one day of light drizzle in Copenhagen, but not enough to break out the raincoat or umbrella.

The best part of this trip was the super early sunrise time. I am someone who likes to get out early and walk before the crowds. With sunrise around 4:00 a.m., Scandinavia in May is pretty much perfect for that. I was often out walking by 3:30 a.m. to take some sunrise pictures. I think the latest I was ever out was 5 a.m. So, I often had 8,000 steps before returning to the hotel for breakfast.

The one downside was that I probably overdid it a bit. I often logged 27,000 steps a day, much of it on cobblestone streets. By the end of the trip, my feet were definitely letting me know about it. It is hard for me to sit and rest when the weather is nice. If it is pleasant outside, I want to be out walking.

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP: I have started using the PhotoPills app when I travel. I like it because it provides the exact times for sunrise and sunset, as well as the blue and golden hours. It offers many other features too; I just have not had time to explore everything it can do.

https://www.photopills.com/

WHAT I DID IN COPENHAGEN: Arrival day, Sunday, May 17: As my room was not ready yet, I dropped off my luggage and went walking. My plan for this day was to head north of the hotel to see the Kastellet military fortress, St. Alban’s Church, AKA the English Church, Amalienborg Palace (covered with the city card and a nice bathroom stop), Nyhavn to see the colorful buildings, the first of many visits during the trip, and a walk around Christianshavn to see the Church of Our Saviour, which was covered in scaffolding.

Monday, May 18: As many sights are closed on Mondays, I thought this would be a good day for one of my planned day trips. So, after walking and breakfast, I headed to Hillerod to see Frederiksborg Castle. What a great setting for this castle surrounded by water. I enjoyed walking around the lake, seeing the castle from different angles, and exploring both the exterior and interior. No crowds and the castle and transportation were coved by the city card. I also went to Tivoli Gardens (covered by the city card) and was surprised to see it so crowded on a Monday afternoon. But, perhaps that was because many things are closed on Mondays.

Tuesday, May 19: This was my Roskilde day trip. All sights and transportation covered by the city card. I planned to visit the cathedral first, but there was a large group of kids lined up outside, so I headed to the harbor first. It was nice to just walk around and take some photos of the boats. I then headed to the Viking Ship Museum, which was a pleasant surprise. I really enjoyed it. There’s a short 15-minute film you should definitely watch that will make you appreciate the ships once you see them. I found it to be very interesting and ended up buying a book at the giftshop to read more about the ships later. Then I walked around the exhibits outside a bit and eventually headed back to the cathedral. I was warned when I entered that they were doing some work on the organ. The cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and holds the tombs of many kings and queens. I always feel a little uncomfortable in churches. I grew up going to Catholic schools and church was always a place to pray. So, I do feel a little weird taking pictures inside of churches.

Wednesday, May 20: This day I started over at the Christiansborg Palace, then headed to the nearby Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek museum, Danish Architecture Center, City Hall, and National Museum of Denmark. I’m not a huge museum person and probably would not have visited all of these if they had not been covered by the city card. However, the drizzle made it a good day to spend some time indoors.

Wednesday, May 27: Rosenborg Castle and gardens. Even though the castle is covered by the city card, you cannot reserve a timeslot. I did not want to risk getting there at opening and have them say come back and 1 p.m. So, I purchased a ticket with the earliest time. I also went to the nearby Botanical Garden, Museum of Natural History and Statens Museum for Kunst (SMK). The Natural History museum had an exhibit on the Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Some really great photos! I included a picture of the winning photo in my photos. The SMK had an interesting exhibit on tapasteries by Anna Thommesen.

Thursday, May 28: This was my day trip to Helsingor to see Kronborg Castle, AKA Hamlet’s Castle. This was my least favorite day trip. The castle itself was fine, but the overall experience just never clicked for me. I got there later than I had planned because there was some issue with the trains being cancelled and the city was busier than I had expected. There were a bunch of annoying older kids sword fighting all around the castle. Just not the relaxing day I was hoping for.

Friday, May 29: After my walk and breakfast, I headed to Dyrehaven (deer park) in search of the 2,000 deer. I did not see anywhere close to 2,000 deer, but I saw plenty and enjoyed getting out into nature for a few hours. After that, I went to both Lego stores (Legos were invented in Billund, Denmark), Tivoli Gardens for a second time (I had a new free entry with my second city pass) and Christiansborg Palace to see the Royal Stables. The stables do not open until the afternoon and so were not open when I first visited the Palace. I knew this ahead of time and had strategically planned my city pass use to visit the different parts of the Palace with each pass.

One thing I did not do was the canal tour, even though it was covered by the city card. I am not a fan of canal tours. The boats sit too low in the water, everyone is squished together, and I find it difficult to take photos from them.

Overall, my favorite Copenhagen experiences were the early-morning walks through the city while it was still asleep, along with the day trips to Hillerød and Roskilde.

WHAT I DID IN STOCKHOLM: Arrival day, Thursday, May 20: After arriving late afternoon in Stockholm, I headed over to the old town, Gamla Stan, and was surprised to find it not crowded at all.

Friday, May 21: Today I spent the day on the island of Djurgården. Looking back, I probably should have taken the tram at least one way instead of walking both ways while also walking all over the island. When I arrived at Skansen, I was a little nervous when I saw all the groups of small kids, but the place is huge and was not crowded once everyone entered and spread out. This was really a great place to walk around. I loved it! Next, I walked over to Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde and finished the day at the Vasa Museum. This is my kind of museum—not too much to see. By the time I walked back to the hotel, my feet and I were tired.

Saturday, May 22: I decided I needed a break from walking and the only way that was going to happen was if I was in a situation where I couldn’t walk. So, I decided the night before to sign up for the Stromma 2.5 hour guided tour of the Archipelago. I was disappointed when I arrived 45-minutes early and there were already about 50 people in line. It’s very unusual that I am not first in line, so I didn’t like this. Oh well. It was nice to get off my feet and enjoy some nice scenery.

Sunday, May 23: I had pre-ordered tickets for the city hall tour, the only way to see the inside. This was really a well-done tour and I highly recommend it. It was 45-minutes, so not too long. Some interesting history with the Nobel Prize Banquet and some very nice rooms. Tickets go on sale one week ahead of time. Be sure to check the schedule before purchasing, because some rooms are not available for viewing on certain days. Last night I remembered that most museums are closed here on Mondays too, so today was my last chance if I wanted to visit any. So, after the city hall tour, I made my way to the Hallwyl House, National Museum, and Swedish History Museum. The Swedish History Museum was definitely my least favorite. I had read about this museum having a nice giftshop, my main reason for visiting, but I was not impressed. My favorite museum giftshops are all in London.

Monday, May 24: Today I toured the Royal Palace and decided to hang around for the changing of the guard. I was quickly remineded why I prefer to skip these crowded events. I was there early enough and found a good spot on an end in the front row. Of course, as more people arrive, everyone starts to cram in and squish together. Once the ceremony started, I had this jerk behind me who kept poking me telling me to move over, he couldn’t see. I finally turned around and said, “I’m sorry, but I was here before you. I am not moving.” I got a nice “F-off” in response. After this fun experience, I headed over to my two favorite islands—Skeppsholmen and Kastellholmen—to walk around.

Overall, my favorite Stockholm experiences were the early-morning walks, along with Skansen and the city hall tour.

FOOD: Those who have read my previous trip reports know I am not big on food, so I really have no recommendations other than the outdoor food market near my Copenhagen hotel--Broens Street Food. This is where I had the second-best burger of my life at Gasoline Grill. The top prize still goes to a place in Vienna--Addicted To Rock. I’m not a fan of the smørrebrød and quickly missed the Spanish ham and cheese sandwiches from my Spain trip. I thought the food at the museums was a little on the fancy side, which I’m sure normal people appreciate, but I was craving a ham and cheese toastie. One thing I noticed is that Doritos seem to be more popular than potato chips. I saw Doritos everywhere.

CASH OR CARD: I always seem to be the unlucky one who needs cash. And this was true on this trip too. The pharmacy at the Malmo train station wanted cash for my vitamin water. The cashier said something in Swedish that I could not understand. So, I’m not sure if that was because the credit card machine was down or the small size of the purchase. I’m always prepared with cash and was able to buy my vitamin water. Also at the Malmo train station, the credit card reader for the toilets was not working, but the attendant waved be through before I had a chance to take out some cash.

SOLO TRAVEL: I highly recommend both cities for solo travelers. Both cities are very walkable and I felt completely safe out and about in the early morning. And these are cities where people don’t bother you. No one is trying to give you something for “free” or asking you for money or to patronize their restaurant. Really, a very pleasant experience.

FINAL THOUGHTS: I enjoyed both Copenhagen and Stockholm and am glad I took this trip. However, I am still more of a nature traveler than a city traveler. Give me the mountains of Switzerland, the scenery of Scotland, or the coastlines of Ireland, and I am a happy traveler. That said, both cities offered some great photo opportunities and did not feel too city-like because of their waterfront locations. The water, islands, and early-morning walks gave them a very different feel from many other European capitals.

NEXT UP: My next trip will be my very first Rick Steves tour, the My Way Alpine Tour, in September. I’m really looking forward to this one.

I also had five nights in Quebec City at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac booked for July, but after spending an extra $3,000 on the business-class upgrades, I decided my travel fund needed a bit of a break. Quebec City will just have to wait for another year.

Thanks for sharing this report. I especially enjoyed looking at your photos - nicely done! You captured the beauty of the location so well, and the fact that you were out really early gives them such a peaceful, quiet feeling. It must have been lovely to experience!

Such lovely pictures. I have been to Copenhagen and enjoyed it much more than I expected. Thanks for the trip back.

Carrie, thanks for sharing your trip report and your beautiful photos. Your information on both the City Cards and the transportation systems are especially helpful.

Carrie, thanks for taking the time to write up your report. Your two-city headline caught my eye as I am, apparently, your opposite, in being quite a city traveler. I've visited Stockholm (loved it!) but not Copenhagen (except the airport.) I love a city where I can spend a week. With all that you did in your 4 nights, including your day trips, Copenhagen sounds like a candidate.

I appreciate all the practical tips, which will jump start my research!

ETA: going through your Copenhagen days more carefully, I was reminded that you spent 8 nughts there. Perfect for planning my city stay style!

Carrie, I loved reading your trip report. It made me feel like I was again in Copenhagen and Stockholm. So glad to hear you had a great time despite you not being a city person. And wow, your photos are amazing! The sunset in Stockholm is something special!

I didn't know about the app with sunset and sunrise (I just check my Weather Underground for times) so I need to check that one out.

What a great trip report!!! Thank you!

Thank you so much for the detailed trip report! I really enjoyed reading it and hearing about these two cities that are on my radar. Lucky you for getting such great weather! How were the prices?

Hi Carrie, Thanks for posting your trip report. I really enjoy reading your detailed trip reports. I relate to a lot about your style of travel- early morning person, not a city person but have really enjoyed some cities (Dublin, York), like it cool when I travel, have to have the aisle seat on a flight, etc so I always get a lot out of your trip reports. Copenhagen is on the possible list so I will be bookmarking this report.