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Slow Travel in Cadaques, Spain...a Magnificent Place

Recently returned from 10 days in Costa Brava with Cadaques as our home base and we did not stray far from this great track of planet earth. Our goal was to recharge rather than do breakneck sightseeing..and we were rewarded tenfold. We landed in Barcelona and drove to a Peratallada, a small town with medieval streets and any photographer's dream, for lunch at El Pati. We had a lovely lunch on their expansive patio and wandered through town taking pictures and exploring its streets. Then onto to Cadaques...

Cadaques
Once you leave the Spanish autostrada, you take a winding road over hills to Cadaques (a little over 2 hours from Barcelona airport - on the way back). Similar to driving in Ireland or stretches of the PCH in the States. Cadaques, although developed, has not suffered the same fate as other coastal towns in Spain including its neighbor, Roses. It is a charming town with a gorgeous old town and seaside bars, shops and restaurants. The area is a hiking paradise filled with GR trails that hug the coast and go inland. You will stop every 10 feet to take yet another stunning photograph. This was our main agenda item each day to hike and explore. We had plans to rent a boat which was simple enough but never got around to it. We will certainly return and do this. We ate the freshest seafood every day (restaurants and our VRBO - hobby chef as part of our travel group),had really affordable great Spanish and French wines and met some lovely people. In a word...PERFECT.

a few Cadaques Restaraunt/Bar/Shops Recs:

1. *Es Grec *: in old town - get the plankton rice (Wow), grilled octopus and squid. It was awesome.

*2. Compartir *: this is restaurant run by chefs from El Bulli fame. We did the tasting menu, it was pricey but delicious and an experience.

  1. Martim Bar - front and center in town and on the Med. have a snack and cold beer and stare at the Med
  2. Anita Nit Cafe - get ready to be entertained by the owner and his family. We had a great time and the food was great. Do NOT skip dessert - homemade by the owner's wife.

5.Quer - go for you all your baked goods (bread, pastry), chocolate and jams. Fantastic!

6.Blau Bar - great outdoor lunch spot - another view of the town and the Med.

  1. Cataline Iturria and Galleria Iturria - art gallery and jewelry, clothes (across from Es Grec)

Side trips

Port Lligat - we walked to this lovely harbor and home of Dali's summer house. Terrific walk - quaint church and a great open-air bar, Es Raco de Dani which served fresh catch of the day - cuddlefish and octopus.

Collioure, France - a 75-minute ride from Cadaques got us into France and into this cool seaside town for market day (Sunday). Similar to Cadaques in charm although much larger in size, it is a great side trip and the market did not disappoint. We had a great seaside lunch (apologies cannot recall the name), wandered through their old town and around the port and had afternoon outdoor cocktails at La Voile (Boat sails on their top deck) with stunning Med views.

Cadaques and Costa Brava is a great place to visit and in our permanent rotation. GO! We spent a lot of time figuring out how we could move here ...avoid August (per the locals!).

Posted by
11294 posts

Thanks for taking the time to post this. It's always great to read reports about places "less traveled" - by Americans at any rate!

Posted by
1124 posts

I love this! We spent five days in Llafranc a year and a half ago and adored the Costa Brava. We had planned to visit Cadaques, but once we parked our car in Llafranc we didn’t move it. 😊

Posted by
6447 posts

This sounds heavenly. I'm assuming a car (vs. train) would pretty much be a requirement?

Posted by
86 posts

Jules - I did not see a train station in Cadaques but I believe you can get a bus from Figures or Girona to Cadaques. Those two towns/cities have train access from Barcelona. Once we were in Cadaques, we really walked everywhere, no car was needed unless you wanted to get out of town.

Posted by
28065 posts

Yes, the route is Barcelona-Girona-Figueres by train, then hop on a bus to Cadques. The wrinkle is that Figueres has two train stations, and the fast trains go to Figueres Vilafant. The bus station is right at the other station ("Figueres"), which is used by the regional trains. That wasn't a problem for me when I did my day-trip to Cadaques, because I was staying in Girona and it didn't cost me too much time to take the slower train to Figueres.

There's bus service linking the two train stations in Figueres, but it is keyed to the arrival time of trains at Figueres Vilafant and is rather infrequent. If the train is late, too bad for you. The distance to the center (near the Dali Theatre and Museum) from Vilafant is walkable--perhaps about a mile--and there are taxis in that area.

Posted by
17418 posts

Shhhhh. ... . Let’s keep this one quiet.

Or at least let me talk about the terrible Tramuntana, the wind that nearly knocked me down when we hiked to the lighthouse 2 weeks ago (not the Cap de Creus lighthouse with the bar; this one was in the opposite direction).

Or how cold that sparkling clear Mediterranean water is (but we swam anyway).

I am sure I can come up with more negativity but I’ll have to give it some serious thought. While I enjoy poring over my photos with happy thoughts of Pulpo Gallega and other delights.

Posted by
681 posts

I was just agreeing with Lola's post. It sounds absolutely wonderful and want to get there before it is too crowded.