As the bus pulls in to Siracusa, I feel at home. I know how to get to my hotel (always a comforting thing, I have stayed there before), and wait for the navetta, which will take me near there for one euro, rather than the €15 taxi fare.
And then I remember, the grumpy navetta drivers. You would think they had the hardest driving job in Italy! Perhaps it's driving in circles all day, but most of the drivers would not be welcome on a RS tour!
I get off the navetta and walk a couple of blocks to my B&B, Via Della Giudecca, where I have stayed happily before. To my surprise, my "room" is a split-level apartment with a kitchen, dining area, living area, half bath on the lower level; and a loft bedroom and huge bath upstairs. It feels decadent to have so much space! It's great to have an area to work on the conference presentation I will give in Catania in a few days; but I am seduced by Ortigia, and go out rambling through the ancient, narrow streets of the old Jewish neighborhood. After Ferdinand expelled the Jews in 1492, this area was largely deserted. The church across the street from my B&B was built over the site of the synagogue, which can be seen on certain days of the week with a guide (hard hats provided).
While I am waiting for the navetta, I notice real estate listings for Ortigia in an office window across the street. I think about living here. But it's far from Roma.