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Sign, Sign, Everywhere a Sign. Australia Trip Report

This is the Australia portion of my New Zealand and Australia trip reports. The New Zealand report can be found here: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/new-zealand-trip-report

Day 1

Our flight from Auckland to Sydney was relatively short—about 3 /12 hours. It would have been a smooth trip if Sydney airport wasn’t such a disaster. Multiple large flights land all at once (I’ve read this is SOP), and everyone is crowded into the border control area with little direction as to how to navigate it, other than one employee angrily screaming at the line of people about the epassport lanes. It wasn’t clear to us, or to most others it seemed, if the epassport lanes were for anyone or just for Australian nationals. The employee did not seem approachable, so, when we got the opportunity, DH left the line to ask someone and it turned out that, yes, we could use the much shorter epassport lineup.

We took the train to Sydney harbour and walked uphill to our hotel, Rendezvous Hotel in “The Rocks” neighbourhood. I had booked a one-bedroom suite with a view, and it did not disappoint! The apartment was old and rather shabby, but it was spacious, and it had a stunning view of Sydney Harbour, the Opera House, and even, if we stood on the balcony, the Harbour Bridge.

We headed back down the hill to find lunch, and, as the weather was pleasant, chose to sit outdoors at Le Foote, a French restaurant on George Street. We were hungry, so I had steak frites and DH had duck. Everything was delicious.

We walked around a bit and looked at the Sunday market that was happening in the neighbourhood. We were fascinated with the large white ibises we saw, and we were soon to find that they were everywhere in Sydney, like pigeons or magpies in other places, but much larger.

We picked up a few groceries at the corner store, admiring all the different flavours of chocolate bars, crisps, and jerky on offer. We were tired from our travels by then, so we had a light bite for supper in our suite and relaxed until bedtime. Just before bed, I was going to step out onto the balcony to have another look at the view, but something the size of a large mouse, but with more legs, moved right where I was about to step. I quickly closed the door. In the dark, I hadn’t seen exactly what it was, but my theory is that it was a cockamouse (the part cockroach, part mouse, made famous on the tv show, “How I Met Your Mother.”)

Day 2

We decided to visit the Blue Mountains the next day, since the weather was so fine (not a given in a New South Wales winter.) Being near the harbour, we had easy access to the train, although we did need to make a transfer, which wasn’t difficult.

A horde of people got off the train with us in Katoomba. However, I had done my research, knew we needed to go into the booking office to buy passes for the Explorer Bus and Scenic World, and I happened to spot it immediately to the right as we exited the station. We ended up being first in what turned out to be a long lineup for the booking office.

Passes in hand, we headed up the street to the nearest bus stop. We were heading for the Three Sisters lookout, and we decided to get off the bus one stop early for what was supposed to be a scenic walk. While there were a couple of spots with decent views, I think we would have had to follow a narrow path farther down the mountainside for better views. We did spot a hapless Buzz Lightyear lying in the dirt, though. It was a real buzzkill.

When we reached the scenic lookout, it was busy. In fact, everything in Australia was far busier than New Zealand had been, even though it was winter. But we enjoyed the spectacular views of the Three Sisters and the surrounding mountains.

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We then hopped on the bus to the “back” entrance to Scenic World, where The Scenic Skyway, a giant cablecar, takes visitors past a stunning cliff bisected by Katoomba Falls, an impressive >200 foot waterfall that bounces off the cliffside in a couple of spots. We then took the Scenic Cableway, a steep cablecar ride, down to an elevated walkway through the rainforest in the valley. It was a lovely walk, but, here, we encountered the first of many, many warning signs we saw in Australia, where, apparently, danger lurks everywhere. This one warned us not to touch anything, because it might be toxic. After walking the loop, we rode the scenic railway back up the cliff. Indiana Jones music played on the loudspeaker during the trip, and, suddenly, the funicular tilted at a sharp angle so that we were facing downwards and almost tipping out of our seats. Fun!

We decided to head out of Scenic World after this, but we had a bit of a wait in the parking lot for the explorer bus, which we took to the village of Leura, leaving the crowds of Katoomba and Scenic World behind. Leura has a cute main street lined with shops and cafes, and we found a fun little place called the WayzGoose Diner for a late lunch. This was a BLT, chips, and a milkshake sort of place, and that really hit the spot. After lunch, we were thrilled to spot a cockatoo across the street, begging at the ice cream shop. Little did we know that this was just the first of many, many cockatoos we’d see in Australia. In fact, there were several more at the Leura station, where we caught the train back to Sydney.

Day 3

The next morning, after breakfast in our suite, we set out for the harbour for our booked tour of the Sydney Opera House. On the way, I noticed a plaque in the walkway and stopped to read it. A ferry ticket-taker noticed me looking, and she pointed out Barry Humphries’ (Dame Edna’s) plaque. There were many more plaques on this “Writers’ Walk,” and I stopped to look at each one. Those honoured included Germaine Greer, Rudyard Kipling, James Michener, and Mark Twain. The walk to the Opera House wasn’t far, but between looking at the views of the harbour and the plaques, it took us a while. Fortunately, we had left ourselves plenty of time.

The tour of the opera house was fascinating, and the interior is as spectacular as the outside (but with a completely different aesthetic than European opera houses). We learned of the shabby way the Danish architect was treated, and we learned that none of the venues inside the opera house are large enough for the really big productions.

Our tour ticket included lunch at one of the on-site restaurants, and we chose Midden, because it has an Indigenous chef and foods. Our tickets allowed us to choose from a limited menu, and I chose the Crispy Skin Humpty Doo Barramundi, while DH chose the Blue Gum Smoked Miso Eggplant. We also opted to add on the Indigenous Australian Grazing Plate, which included “NSW regional cheeses, wild thyme hummus, smoked kangaroo, emu, tandoori crocodile, olives, pickled vegetables, marinated artichoke, roasted macadamia nuts, quandong paste, [and] Tasmanian mountain pepper leaf flat bread.” Everything was scrumptious, so scrumptious, in fact, that a seagull couldn’t resist trying to get a taste, knocking over my drink in the process. That wasn’t the first time I’d been attacked by a bird, and it wouldn’t be the last time that would happen this trip, either. Just call me Tippi.

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