These 12 days from one end of Sicily to the other depended on public transportation with a couple of private transfer/tours. Our focus was on art, architecture, history, and scenery (and food!). Every day was a revelation of beauty and the resilience of people through the centuries. We traveled in early April, and saw gorgeous wild flowers throughout our trip in the hills and towns; we also had lovely weather most of the time... there were only two days when it showered briefly, and one half day of serious rain. We did and saw much more than is in this trip report; these are the highlights. I booked all of our hotels and b&bs on booking.com, looking at location and reviews, and all worked out well. Our nights were:
3 nights Trapani
3 nights Palermo
2 nights Agrigento
4 nights Siracusa (Ortigia)
2 nights Rome (sister had not been to Rome before, so...)
Trapani & Erice: We flew into Rome from the US with AA and then took a direct, separately booked one-hour Alitalia flight from FCO to Trapani four hours later. Trapani was our base for a couple of amazing day trips. The first was a lovely day in Erice. We took a taxi (arranged by hotel) to the foot of the "cable car" (actually a gondola which runs continuously), then up and over amazing scenery to Erice. Yes, we could have taken a bus from our hotel to the gondola, but for approx 10 euros for the taxi we saved about an hour in transportation each way and it was worth it. Erice is beautiful! I especially loved wandering around the ancient castle/temple ruins at the top of town. How stunning to walk in a place where a goddess was worshipped some 2500 years ago; it was a place of worship for Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantine Christians, Muslims, then more Christians... and now it is a peaceful, yet still powerful place from which to look out over the walls and down to the sea coast. I also meandered through various ceramic shops and bought two beautiful pieces. We had a delicious lunch at Osteria de Pentolaccia (homemade pasta with basil, fish, zucchini, and pistachio). I can't overstate how glorious the views were from Erice down to the sea coast. Do try to go there on a sunny day. When we took the gondola back down from Erice to Trapani, we found several taxis waiting, including the great guy who had driven us earlier.