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Sicily Trip Report

Sicily, it will be warm, they said. Treat yourself to a professional pedicure, you'll be wearing sandals, they said!

Night 1, Catania. Palazzo Bruca, 63 E. Thought a palazzo would be fun, however really didn't "feel like" a palazzo. Room was very small, very clean. Staff so helpful and actually asked how we planned to get to Siracusa and then offered a better plan. I wasn't aware that fairly close to the palazzo and the cathedral is a bus stop for Interbus, saved a lot of walking. We felt Catania was a little too "gritty" for us, though we liked the cathedral and enjoyed the fish market. We did the RS walking tour and were frustrated that so many of the baroque churches were closed. We ate at Osteria Antica. Food was wonderful and service fairly attentive. We struggled with the Italian menu which I think frustrated the staff.
It was about 65 degrees, about 40 degrees warmer than MN. However, we saved our "hot weather" clothes for the warmer days we knew were coming. . .
If I were to change my itinerary, I would have gone directly to Siracusa from Catania airport on the Intercity bus.

Nights 2 and 3, Siracusa. We stayed in Ortiga at Hotel Gutkowski, 90 euro, wonderful breakfast. We'd been excited that this hotel was right on the water. Turned out that a seawall blocks any view. The staff was very helpful. Spotless room and bathroom. Loved Ortiga and walked all over, by afternoon the 2nd day, my knee was very painful and I was grateful for the cane loaned by forum member, Nancy and the forum recommendations for Voltaren. My husband visited the "castle" and I went to the puppet museum, we both enjoyed our chosen activity. We ate the first night at Osteria da Mariano. Husband was thrilled with quantity and price. I thought the food was fine and staff was quite friendly and pleasant. The second night we ate at Osteria la Gazza Ladra. Really enjoyed, good food, tiny, family owned restaurant.

Night 4. Took the train to Noto. Again, thank you Nancy for the cane! An added benefit was that people seemed to be more careful about bumping me. Loved beautiful Noto. We had gelato with brioche at Caffe Costanzo. We looked at options for getting back to Siracusa to pick up a car, and considered train which was faster or bus, which was closer. They left at the same time. We decided train, and I hobbled down to the train station where we found out our train was cancelled due to a strike. Never heard anything about a possible strike and locals hadn't heard about it either, and commented that it must have been a "regional strike". We had a great time talking to other travelers waiting for the next train. Picked up a car at Avis (arranged thru Autoeurope) in Ortiga, in spite of the very high prices, quite possibly the most pleasant car rental experience, ever. We drove to Ragusa Ibla. Our typically reliable maps.me, struggled with the switchback roads, and by the time we got there husband and I were barely talking. ;) He parked on a random street and sent me off to find Terraza di Sogni (81 euro/night). What a GREAT place! Upon arrival, our host suggested I relax on the terrace while he and my husband looked for a parking spot. Another spotless room and bath. Breakfast is fantastic and the hostess/inn manager, identified all the regional goodies and served coffee. In spite of the chilly, windy weather, we really enjoyed breakfast on their fantastic terrace where we also enjoyed sunsets, while wrapped in a blanket (at this point, Minnesota is now about 20 degrees warmer than Sicily ). We ate at Il Barocco, actually both nights. Pleasant service, good food, great wine selection.

Night 5, Day trip to Modica and Scicli. Tried the chocolate and bought a bunch. Walked around Modica's old town a bit. Drove to Scicli. So cute, but disappointed that cathedral was closed. Went back to Ragusa and did RS walking tour. He doesn't do this lovely town justice and we wished we had another day to explore Ragusa and the region.

Posted by
88 posts

Thank you for taking time to write this with details on lodging and dining. I'm sorry so many Churches were closed, they are so beautiful and unique in their own way. I also found the Sicilian people to be very kind, helpful and generous. Looking forward to reading more.

Posted by
1045 posts

You say you would skip Catania and gone straight to Siracusa. Yes, you say that now. Only because you had been to Catania. That is what travel is. Learning, liking, not liking. You cannot say unless you have experienced.
If you had bypassed Catania and gone to Siracusa you would never have known. Part of that unknown is that you maybe could have liked it. But you would not have known.
If you want all good, you need a tour. Even the, maybe not so much. Maybe too skewed the other direction.
Every day, every place cannot be premium.
Sometimes you need to go to a real place. Just to see that the “Euro” experience is not all a big disneyland pie in the sky gelato and romance dream.
Que sera, sera.

Posted by
6447 posts

@Treemoss, it sounds like I was unclear. We were also in Catania at the end of our trip. At one point in my itinerary design, I had Catania first in the itinerary. Then I discovered we would miss the Allied Landings museum because its closed Mondays. When I realized that, I dropped a day of Catania at the beginning and added a day at the end to go to the museum, which is excellent and we were so glad I rearranged the itinerary so we could visit it.

In terms of the itinerary design, when I made the change, I should have started our trip by taking the bus from the Catania airport directly to Siracusa. Then, we would have ended with a couple days in Catania and it would have eliminated one of our hotel changes. Siracusa is close enough to Catania that I wanted people to know they can go directly there by bus upon arrival. I usually am good at designing my itineraries and it was just silly that I didn't catch it.

The Allied Landings museum is quite good, and it seems few people go. When we were there it seemed to be mostly older folks, likely vets that were visiting. My husband wished they would provide more English translations, but he was still pleased with the visit

I would disagree that a formal tour would help in terms of weeding out places and including the best sites. I like the RS guidebooks, but I'd never rely on what he and his writers think in terms of the best cities and "attractions". Just recently I saw pictures of a beautiful church in Palermo that wasn't on our radar. I mean, exceptionally beautiful. I looked in the RS guide and he apparently missed it too.

I would also point out that sometimes my husband and i are less than thrilled with a town/city in terms of the vibe, feel or aesthetics, but still glad to visit. In addition to Catania, for us, Trapani would be in the category. Yet, it was a good town to stay in because there are excellent day trips from it and we also liked the restaurants.

@Diveloonie, no idea why so many churches were closed. The cathedral and the smaller church adjacent to it were open. Many of the ones on the RS walking tour were closed. We did notice on the last day of our trip when we were back in Catania that a few of the churches on Via Etna that had been closed when we had visited a few weeks earlier, were open.

Usually, I check websites for museums, churches and other "attractions" for hours and days, but I've quit doing that for churches. It seemed the church websites were just too unreliable to bother.

Posted by
344 posts

Thank you for your trip report. I'm just beginning to do research on visiting Sicily and I appreciate the time you took to describe your experience. If it makes you feel any better, I just rented a car in Connecticut, visiting my family for a week and the car rental was very expensive. My flight from San Diego was double what it usually is. I feel as if I paid first class price for a coach seat, but still glad I went and I'm sure you feel the same way about your Avis rental. Thanks again!