Many of you know that I have a huge interest in the Jewish history in Germany and these 3 cities are where it all began. They are called the SHUM cities because the Hebrew letters that begin the names of each city are Shin for Shpira, Waw for Warmaisa, & Mem for Magenza.
Beginning in the 900's Jewish communities began along the Rhine in the cathedral cities, first in Mainz, then Worms, the Speyer. The schools of learning they set up in these cities predate any university in Europe and Jewish scholars traveled great distances to learn here. They forged a close bond between the cities and formed an alliance in the 1200's where all Jews in each city fell under the same laws. During the crusades, the communities suffered immensely with forced baptisms and many deaths. Some books will tell you that the entire community of 1000, committed suicide in Mainz rather than be raped or forcibly baptized, but other books say the number was far less, more in the 100's, but still horrid. The Black Death caused more massacres and these 3 communities almost ceased to exist, with the remnants mainly moving on to Frankfurt which became the major center of Jewish life in Germany until the 1800's.
Mainz - Mainz is the oldest SHUM city with the first community dating back to about 900, though the Romans in this entire area surely had Jewish people living with them as did the Franks who settled here in the 400-500's.
The Jewish remnants here are hard to find. The medieval cemetery was destroyed centuries ago. You can visit the former location of the Jewish Ghetto, where 1 of the banks has a large, glass image in front of it depicting the Synagogue that was once here. While in Mainz, head over to the new Synagogue which is an architectural delight. You can't get in, but admiring from the outside is still worth it.
The Archbishops had a unique relationship with the Jews. They were a good source of tax money, they were scholars, they brought in trade, and they were good for making loans.
I have been to the Mainz Dom and Worms Dom many times and am always impressed by their massive, Romanesque architecture. The Dom in Mainz impresses me the most as it is more decorative and it has 2 choir areas, one at each end with the octagonal tower reminiscent of Charlemagnes cathedral in Aachen. Just beautifully decorated, with lots of dark wood and the largest baptismal font I have ever seen.
Worms - The Jewish lane in Worms is the only one that has kept its' medieval look with all of the houses still intact. It follows the old city walls in a picturesqe curve, with the rebuilt Synagogue half-way down the lane. Behind it is the Rashi House that has the Jewish Musuem and also the Mikvah. Sadly, the Mikavah has been closed for some much needed restoration as it had become dangerous. Both the Rashi House and Synagogue are open Tues-Sun. from 10:00-12:30 and 13:30 to 16:30, 1.50€
The cemetery in Worms, Holy Sands, is the oldest Jewish cemetery in Europe and well worth a visit. Do stay on the paths as they do not want you to walk amongst the graves. Men need to wear a hat. It is closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays.
https://www.worms.de/juedisches-museum-EN/
I like Worms and for anyone doing Luther tours this year, it makes sense to stop here.
Speyer - This was my 1st visit here and I was excited to see not only the Jewish museum and mikvah, but also the Dom. While waiting for the museum to open, I visited the Dom. Though the largest of the 3 and once the largest church in Europe, I found it less impressive inside. Perhaps due to the windows or the organ? All I know was that I found little that I wanted to photograph which is unusual for me.
The Jewish museum is located on the Jewish Alley, and was interesting, with half the text in English. The mikvah though was worth the trip here. The ruins of the Synagogue are amazing too.
http://www.speyer.de/sv_speyer/en/Tourism/Tourist%20attractions/Jewish%20Heritage/