Short London Trip, April 27-30

Friday, April 28

We walked to Breadline, a charmingly charmless favorite traditional cafe near Trafalgar Square for breakfast. It’s a small spot where well-dressed office workers say things like “senior management have lost the plot” while some guys in reflective vests at the next table enjoy a break. A bacon and egg sandwich and cup of tea brought my partner right back to London office days.

We headed for Liberty to arrive at opening time in hopes of avoiding the crowds we saw the day before. They have a whimsical selection of housewares, some made in England, which we appreciate using back in Houston. I love the ambiance but wouldn’t go there without the intention of shopping.

After dropping off our newfound treasures, we met up with our university student nephew in time to make our booking at the new-ish F1 Arcade. We found it flashy yet also nice in a certain F1 way. Friends told us we needed more than one round of three races, so we booked two time slots with a break for lunch, which turned out to be just right. As we were leaving, the place was packed…it was qualifying and apparently a lot of workers in the area timed their lunch to coincide.

The F1 Arcade is right behind St. Paul’s, so I wanted to visit the (again) new-ish Reflection Garden next door. We took a few pictures of the dome reflected in the pool with greenery obscuring the road between the garden and the cathedral. The curious wanderer book came in handy again as a reference for the City of London. We then sent our nephew off to whatever delights 19 year olds get up to these days and made our way back to Citadines for another cup of tea and to get ready for the evening. We use our hotel room more than many people would as we tend to drop off packages and make a quick cup of tea while we change for various activities.

We collected a friend from the mob around Gordon’s wine bar and headed for the calm refinement of Rule’s Winter Garden for a cocktail before a laughter-filled dinner at The Barbary Next Door in Neal’s Yard. We like TBND because we always have a good time there. We finished dinner shortly before 9:30, and our friend decided he could stay out a bit longer before catching his train, so we headed for what we call the Toilet Bar, where we were treated to a cabaret and burlesque show. Another fantastic evening in London.

Saturday, April 29

I adore fashion history and what it tells us about living in a certain time period, so I booked the 10a entry to Style & Society: Dressing the Georgians at the Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace. Being 7 days before the coronation, the walk from Trafalgar Square meant passing all the preparations along The Mall, with fresh gold paint gleaming in the sun. I contemplated the paintings and clothing at length, managing to finish just in time to meet my partner at St. James’s Park tube station so we could zip out to his old neighborhood, Kew.

We gathered with friends for lunch and celebrated the first gorgeous Spring day of the year and the May bank holiday weekend. Kew charmed with cricketers playing on the green and blossoms everywhere. A lovely visit ended too quickly as early afternoon became late afternoon. We didn’t make it to the gardens, despite being members, because that’s part of living like a local…not doing the things on your doorstep. Back in central London, we dressed for dinner, then strolled through the abundant tulips in Victoria Embankment Gardens on our way to Somerset House for dinner at Spring. Despite the excellent food and elegant surroundings, I hesitate to recommend it because their service struggled to deliver to the point where a floor manager came by our table to apologize twice.

Sunday, April 30

We leisurely finished our packing and requested a taxi to Paddington. The cabbie, seeing us peering over our luggage mountain, quipped, “And you’ve only been here two days” not knowing he wasn’t far off. Back at Heathrow, we made it to the United lounge in time for the last of breakfast, where one can make a decent bacon sandwich from the offerings.

Our trips are a little different from others since they are a blend of me as tourist and him living like a local. For my partner these trips are about shopping, friends, and restaurants. I add in museums and other sightseeing to suit myself, and sometimes he joins me, sometimes not. I like the freedom of doing what most interests us individually for a few hours of each visit and meeting back up to hear what the other experienced. I visited London several times as a tourist before we met, so I’ve seen the major sights multiple times and focus on smaller, special interest museums or special exhibits. We try not to overschedule and leave time for a bit of serendipity. It helps that we always think we'll be back in a few months.

Sounds absolutely lovely. :)

thanks for the report - I learned lots I didn't know. I hope that the family treasures all made it home ok

Nancy, thank you for the details about The Barbary Next Door that you shared thru our private messages. I was able to make reservations this morning, so we’re set for a month from now.

What’s with the Toilet Bar? Apparently that’s your name for it, not the actual name. Are the restrooms extra special, or just supremely convenient, or is there an intriguing story behind you giving it that name?

Thanks TexasTravelmom!

Nigel, thank you...everything is in good shape including the model railroad set.

Cyn, it's called CellarDoor, a former men's public convenience turned cocktail bar under Aldwych. It's said Oscar Wilde was arrested here. The modern toilets in it are also a bit risque...they have clear glass that turns opaque when the door is locked. Hope you enjoy The Barbary Next Door!

Nancy, I did the Georgian exhibition on Monday! I thought it was quite good. I usually enjoy the audio commentary in that gallery.

Pam, it sounds like you've seen multiple exhibits there! It was my first time in the Queen's Gallery, and I'll definitely go back.

Nancy, I loved this! London is my favorite city and I've been several times as I lived in Germany and Italy for 10 years, but now I have a whole bunch of new things to do next visit. Thank you@