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Shetland and Orkney, June 2026

I think this will be long (and maybe boring), so be forewarned. It’s also late, but I realized I like writing these reports because I do sometimes go back and read them and am reminded of memories. :)

I’ve been to Scotland twice and have wanted to get to Shetland and Orkney since I first started researching in 2015. This summer, a couple of things changed, which made me cancel half my planned trip, and the timing seemed like it would be the perfect opportunity to substitute the north isles. (And it was.)

It’s not especially fast or easy to get to either. I was already in Thessaloniki, so I chose to fly BA to Aberdeen and spend a couple of nights. From Aberdeen, I flew to Shetland, then I flew to Orkney, then Orkney to Dublin (all of these on Logan Air). From Dublin, I flew AA home. There are ferry options, as well. I don’t know whether ferry or flights carry more risk of cancellation, but cancellation was definitely something I considered. In the end, I had great weather on flight days, but that’s certainly not guaranteed. The outline of the trip was: 2 nights Stonehaven, 9 nights Shetland, 10 nights Orkney, 2 nights Dublin.

2 nights Stonehaven: After arriving early evening in Aberdeen, I took the 727 bus from the airport to Union Square, the bus terminal, and connected to the X7 on to Stonehaven. Both were tap to pay.

From my end-of-the-line bus stop, it was a 5 minute walk to my really cute BnB The Belvedere Guest House. My new friend Vera from the bus walked me to the Coop for some food for dinner to be sure I wasn’t hungry and then to the BnB on her way home. By that time, I had all the scoop on bus passes for students & seniors, available housing, grocery stores, schools, and more for all the nearby villages. Because it was after 7, I had a code and lockbox check in, which was smooth.

This was also the night of Scotland’s last game of the World Cup, so Vera also gave me the scoop on where I could find a place to watch some of it - the hotel and pub by the train station - and which room the women would most likely be watching from. Yes, the room of younger men was full, while the more sedate lounge area had both men and women but was definitely quieter. I stayed long enough to sip a half pint of cider before heading back down the hill and bed.

On my full day, I had planned to go to Dunnotar Castle. However, it was a grey, drizzly chilly day. And that was made more complicated by the fact that my suitcase stayed an extra day in London, where I had changed planes. I am always equipped for a couple of nights minimum with my backpack, but I was not prepared coatwise to hike the down and up for the castle in the weather. So instead, I wandered the town and beach, and resupplied myself with a few things I needed, including a new contact case as I had walked off and left mine in Thessaloniki. After trying to buy one at 2 pharmacies, I stopped at a local optometrist, where they insisted on just giving me one.

On my second morning, after another great breakfast, I headed down to the bus stop back to Aberdeen for my late afternoon flight to Sumburgh Airport. I had planned to visit the Maritime Museum, but the rain started coming down in earnest just as I arrived. And with no raincoat, I lost interest. So I went ahead and bussed back to the airport, where I was re-united with my suitcase and worked on my Greece trip report.

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Shetland:

It’s only a 1 hour flight from Aberdeen and, despite the weather in Aberdeen, I arrived at 7pm on a glorious sunny evening. As we made our approach, it looked as if the runway extended right into the deep blue water, with the deep green hills surrounding it. It was love at first sight.

I had a small automatic arranged through Bolts Car Rental for my whole visit. One guy sitting at the desk just past the luggage carousel, paperwork signed, he handed me keys and said follow the signs to the parking lot and click the key button to find your car, return it same place, and drop the keys here when you come back. Ha! Then I was off for the 30 minute-ish drive to Lerwick. The airport sits at the southern tip of the mainland (main island), with Lerwick - the capitol and largest town - being around halfway up. It still takes my breath away to remember the beauty of that drive. A few minutes into my drive, I had this moment when I realized I was driving across the airport runway! Yes, there are barriers like a train crossing that go down when a plane is coming or going, but that’s the first time I’ve ever driven on a runway. LOL.

I arrived in Lerwick, easily finding the street parking in front of my apartment: Nortbode Serviced Apartments (the Sands of Breckon unit). I had a code for the outside entrance and one for my particular apartment. This wasn’t a cheap option, but housing is a bit limited - and with my somewhat late switch of destination, my options weren’t huge. However location was perfect and it was incredibly nice. It was serviced daily if I wanted and provided coffee,tea, milk, salt, pepper, and sugar. A quick walk down to a small Coop for a few immediate supplies and then it was time for bed.

From Lerwick (not in any kind of order):
I took the Mousa Boat to Mousa Island, walking around the island (2 miles) on a designated path, with a highlight being Mousa Broch, an Iron Age round tower about 40 feet high built about 300 BC. It is the tallest remaining in Scotland and one of the best preserved
prehistoric buildings in Europe. You can still climb the inside stairs to the top - I considered it but decided it might not be the best idea, plus I needed to get back to the boat on time. Another highlight was listening to the baby stormy petrols in their nests buried within stone walls around the east side of the island. Booking not required (and not available) - just show up and pay your £18 on the way back.
Tip: take water and lunch.

Jarlshof: a site containing Bronze Age houses, an Iron Age broch and wheelhouses, site of Norse long houses, a medieval farmstead, and a more recent lord’s house from the 1500s. Reservations ahead are recommended, especially on cruise ship days. However there were only about 5 or 6 other people there when I was.

Here’s a note about the weather. I did go to these 2 sites on consecutive days. For Mousa, we had a foggy ride over, then bright lovely sunshine and I was sweating in my short-sleeved t-shirt. The following day for Jarlshof, I absolutely froze in a long sleeved shirt, fleece jacket, packable down coat, and knit hat - and was afraid I might blow off the road driving to and from.

Scatness Broch: this is a small Iron Age village near Jarlshof. It is only open for visits during the summer and only by guided tour on Fridays. I really enjoyed this. It’s a small site, but the guide was one of the best I had during my trip. There were about 20 on the tour - and it’s the only tour of the week. It has original buildings but also some reproductions so you can see what it would have looked like. Although I didn’t, you can very easily visit Scatness and Jarlshof on the same day - and most times it would make sense to do so.

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I also did a full day’s drive to Unst, the northernmost island. This involved 2 ferries and was a very full day, but so worth it. I had read scotlandmac’s report on a day trip here and Skyegirl’s report on staying there - which I now know would be incredible. I stopped at the Viking boat reproduction, the Unst Heritage Center, and made it up as far as the Boatman’s House pull off before turning around. I can’t even begin to describe the scenery.
Tips: there aren’t a lot of places to eat. I stopped at the Final Checkout Cafe for a delicious bacon sandwich and coffee. (Sounds ominous, doesn’t it?) I actually had made ferry reservations for each leg and that might matter at some times. But not this trip. For the first ferry, I actually got in the wrong line (for people with no reservation) but still got on with no trouble. For all my other legs, I ended up not worrying about times and just went to the ferry whenever I ended up there - I got in the no reservation line and there was plenty of space for all 3 times. But I knew I was covered with a reservation, so wouldn’t have to worry about sleeping in the car. Ha! I guess the point is if you don’t think you can go because you didn’t get a reservation, try anyway.

Shetland Seabird Tours: There are a couple of tours that go to Noss Island for all the nesting seabirds - in huge numbers! This is the tour I took and I absolutely loved it. They even had binoculars for everyone (all 12 of us) to use. Sometimes they see dolphins or even occasionally whales, but we didn’t on my day. I ended up on the trip with a group of friends from England who had been on my Scatness tour, so that was fun. This was also one of 2 days where I used my waterproof pants.
Tip: don’t save this till your last day. I had scheduled about midway through my stay and my day got cancelled because of high winds. Then they were completely full the next 2 days. Fortunately there were a couple of other timeframes it would work for both me and them and am so glad.

Other things and places: Quendale Mill; the Shetland Museum; Douglass Arms for live music (8:00 on Thursdays); I actually went to a movie at the Mareel one night (never done that on travels before); walked streets including by The Lodberry (Season 11 of Shetland finished filming the day before I arrived - poor planning. Ha!); Charlotte’s Fort; church at St. Columba’s Church of Scotland; yarn shopping for one of my kids; and a drive to Scalloway.

I encountered Viking parades in both Lerwick and Scalloway on successive Saturday afternoons, small family- oriented events with lots of Viking costumes. It’s good to remember both Shetland and Orkney have more Norse culture and heritage than Scottish.

Final day visit to Sumburg Head: My flight didn’t leave till 3:45pm and I had not been able to get to Sumburg Head previously. I had tried once before (on that not-so-lovely weather day after Jarlshof when it would have been convenient by location) but it was drizzly, cold, incredibly windy, and not conducive to a further walk up to the visitor’s center and views.

But my final day was gorgeous and I had plenty of time - and even found a few puffins! But even without puffins, the views were incredible. It was a perfect way to end my visit to Shetland.

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Food: Food was not a theme. I had breakfast things in my apartment and ate a few times at restaurants. I figure there WERE very nice places, but I wasn’t willing to commit by making reservations. I ate at Frankie’s Fish and Chips, The Dowry, Magno, the Scalloway Hotel - and from the grocery store.

You have to have a few misses and mine was the Shetland Pony Experience. I love horses and made this reservation before leaving home (remember I was gone several weeks before getting to Shetland). The drive would have taken me to another area I didn’t get to. In my desire to tie up loose ends, I paid ahead of time via Wise (they don’t take credit cards). It was my last full day (the only day they had open) but they had to cancel for weather. There wasn’t weather where I was, but who knows what they were expecting the following day. While they were happy to refund, they had no easy way to manage it as a small family business. Eventually I got most of my money back via PayPal. I am sure both of us lost a little due to fees. I should have just chosen to pay cash when I arrived.

Other thoughts:
There were many other places I could have gone and hikes I could have taken (if I were a hiker). I had almost 9 full days and I know I could have made do with fewer. But I loved having the flexibility to stay in if it rained (I had 1 day with lots of rain). I do think a car or a tour is pretty essential to get the most from your time. For the most part driving was easy. There is lots of single track but the only place it bothered me was way up north on Unst past the Heritage Center, where we added curves and cliffs. But again, there’s not a lot of traffic. Bolts Car Rental was easy and relaxed.

I don’t think I used any cash except for the Mousa Boat. Cruise ships never impacted me, although I saw the ships.

I relied heavily on information from Pam, who has been here twice.

Scenery is amazing. Shetland just moved up to my favorite part of Scotland. I’ll add Orkney but it may take me a while.

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I love it so far! I need to run to the grocery but will be back to go back over the details. Thanks so much for writing this! And Noss sounds wonderful! I will definitely be checking that out.