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September 2026: Dolomites, the Veneto & Emilia Romana

We traveled to the Dolimites around Cortina, the Veneto, and a bit of Emilia Romana the first two weeks of September. It was an amazing trip, split between the mountains, the countryside and the bigger cities; and thematically between the natural world, World War 1, and the art of the Fresco. Many of the smaller places I just found on google maps as we put the trip together.

Part 1: the Dolomites
I would definitely watch Cameron’s Summer 2026 Trip Report on Monday Night Travel if you are thinking about going to the Dolomites. We watched it after our trip, and our experience was similar to his in the Dolomites, just farther to the east. And yes, blind curves + bicycles is unnerving.

Day 1: arrival Venice
We flew through Amsterdam. We spend 5 minutes scanning passports, etc. Very fast.

We flew into Venice and stayed in Tessera at the Marriot right next to the airport. We were going to pick up the car for the next day at the airport, so it didn’t make much sense to go much farther. There are a few restaurants and a café for breakfast in the little town.

Day 2: towards Cortina
Picked up the car and headed in the direction of Cortina. We made a quick stop at the Sacrario Militare del Montello, an Italian WW 1 monument. I was surprised there were a few motorcyclists there. We are usually the only ones at these places.

We drove on to Serravalle, which is part of Vittorio Veneto, and stopped to see the town. It’s a beautiful place with several 15th century buildings painted with frescos and a pleasant river running through it. The Palazzo Flaminio is very beautiful. We had a pleasant luch at a family-run restaurant on the plaza. It’s worth a stop if you want to break up a drive and stop for an hour or two for lunch or a coffee.

Then on to San Vito di Cadore. The drive up was impressive through elevated highways, numerous tunnels, and winding roads. I didn’t really know what to expect in this area, but even before you get deep into the Dolomites its beautiful. We stayed at the Best Western here, which was a good basic choice. San Vito is 15 minutes from Cortina and the prices are much better than Cortina. It isn’t a large town but there are plenty of restaurants and cafés. And there are beautiful mountains towering over it. Having been in Cortina, I was quite satisfied with the town. Given we were tired from the flight, took it easy the rest of the day.

Day 3: Cinque Torri & Cortina
The trip’s first hike in the Dolomites was at the Cinque Torri. I’m not sure how I picked this hike other than there are reconstructed WW1 trenches. And there are and you can walk in them and it is fascinating if you know the history. You can also look across the valley to the towering mountains that still have signs of the war. It cost us 25 Euros a piece to take the chair lift (to and from). It seemed a little expensive to pay 50 Euros for that, but I had been looking at prices for the Motorola Glacier and that was 45 a piece both ways. This seemed a better deal…I guess. The hike itself was very crowded and there were people I don’t think who should’ve been up there. I thought it was a moderate hike, but it’s quite difficult. It’s only 2 miles, but there are places where you need to sit on the ground so you can slide down to the next steps. I think there might be better hikes, and one that are less crowded. Also we got to the parking lot by 9 and it was 80% full.

Despite the short distance we were still tired (perhaps it was the altitude 7500 ft), so we came down the mountain and drove back to Cortina. Cortina is nice and lively and we walked the pedestrian street where all the design shops are. It won’t be my favorite town in Italy, but it is pleasant to pass a few hours there.

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Day 4: Tre Cima de Lavadero
This was an early day. We drove over to the Tre Cima, which was about 45 minutes from our hotel. Once you get past Cortina, it becomes very windy roads, full of switchbacks. And as a general theme, you see multiple trail heads that are jammed with cars even before 8 AM. We had a reservation for parking at the lot halfway up the mountain. It cost 40 Euros, which despite the cost, was worth it. This is a super popular hike and they make bank here. The lines for the buses top the top are perhaps 100 feet deep. The hike itself is beautiful. You’ll have a hard time not taking a good photo. Since we started so early, it wasn’t too crowded. There were a lot of people up there, but there were fairly spread out, except at the rufugio halfway through, then it was jam packed. Both at the rufugio and at the parking lot you had to pay to use the rest room, and they only took cash (rufugio’s often only take cash). The hike was worth doing but I’m sure there are ones that are less crowded. We were up there about 6 hours.

Day 5: Monte Piana
We drove back to the same area the next day. I knew the parking below the Tre Cima at the lake would be tight, so we left early, and got there at 9:30 to get one of the last spots in the lot. Monte Piana is a generally flat mountain that was a WW1 battlefield and is now an open air museum with a large number of restored trenches. I had read about it in a Tom Isitt’s excellent book Thunder in the Mountains (his website has a lot of great pictures from then and now). While you can walk up there, you can also take a jeep taxi to the top for 25 Euros per person. The road to the top is paved, but the last mile or so are switch back on the steep slopes that drop down a long way. It was an amazing place to visit, not only if you are into the history of the war, but the views of the whole area are incredible, giving you 360 degree views of all the mountain ranges completely unobstructed. And there was hardly anyone up there. It was so quiet and peaceful. Having an interest that takes you off the beaten path is my number one travel tip. We walked down the mountain road to get some extra miles in. We had only walked 2 miles or so in the 2 hours we were on the mountain. It went fast as that road sure is steep.

We drove over to Sacrario militare di Pocol outside of Cortina. Another of these almost deserted monuments. A much more interesting than the site we first saw and quite mournful with the wind whistling through some upper windows, and the red light from tinted windows. Then had lunch in Cortina before heading back to San Vito.

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Part 2: the Countryside
All of the places we visited over the next 4 days all had their charms and would be worth a half day if you are in the area. It’s really nice to get out to the smaller towns and away from the big city atmosphere. Pretty much everywhere we went in this part of the trip was very quiet with few tourists. It was definitely shoulder season already in these areas.

Day 6: Belluno
Belluno was a bit of a random choice when I picked it. It was close to the Veneto, but still in the mountains. The original plan was to do a hike near there, but the weather turned and when we left San Vito it was pouring down rain and there was thunder and lightning. I saw lightning bolts 3 times. Fortunately, the rain kept drivers off the road, so tailgaters weren’t much of a problem.

Belluno is a nice town with a Renaissance old quarter filled with old churches, winding streets, and frescos painted on the side of buildings. We walked around the town and had a nice lunch. After lunch we went to the town museum, which was very nice with an interesting mix of items, from Renaissance religious paintings, to woodprint blocks, to landscapes of the area dating back centuries. I’m sure the rain kept a few people away, but it was a quiet town tourism wise, and a nice change from some of the sites in the Dolomites. We stayed slightly outside the town in an old villa that is now a small hotel, Park Hotel Villa Carpenada. Quite pleasant.

Day 7: Feltre
The forecast was for heavy rain again, but we chanced it and drove over to Feltre, a former hill town that has long outgrown its previously walled redoubt. 30 minutes from Belluno, it’s the perfect day trip from Belluno. The old town is on a hill and you have to climb multiple flights of stairs to get up to it. You could also come in one of the two roads that bisect it, but otherwise the old part is isolated from the newer parts of town. Again, the town is full of old Renaissance Palazzos painted street facing frescos. The Piazza Maggiore is the jewel there. There was hardly anyone in that section of town (probably the weather more than anything). We had lunch just below in a café had a few sight seers and a group of locals playing some sort of card game.

After lunch we went to the Gallery of Modern Art Carlo Rizzarda. With these small town museums you never know what you are going to find. This was a fantastic museum. It is the former home of Carlo Rizzarda an artist who worked in decorative iron work. He worked in the 20s and 30s so much of his work has an art deco feel and is exquisitely done, especially his gates and fire grates. This was certainly one of the biggest surprises of the trip. Definitely worth the 5 Euro admission. And the old mansion it is housed in is a treat, too.

Then it poured down rain on the way back to Belluno.

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Day 8: Monte Grappa & Bassano del Grappa
We left Belluno after breakfast and headed towards Monte Grappa, which is the last mountain in that region and gives way to the plain of the Veneto. It was also a major battlefield in WW1 and hosts a large war monument on its peak. Monte Grappa was always on my list and it seemed a quick stop from Belluno on the way to Bassano del Grappa. We drove down to Feltre again and then began the climb up from that side. This was our most adventurous drive we’ve done in Europe, much more than the Kalamata to Mystras drive we did in Greece last year. It’s a windy road with constant blind corners and road edges that constantly seem to be dropping off the cliff. The road is well maintained and the occasional car that approached fit on the narrow roads, but it was an hour and a half drive through some amazing countryside. Once you get into the more plateau like section of the mountain, it switches to the occasional farm perched on steep hills—I still wouldn’t want to slide off one of those. I think we drove 30 kph the whole way, except when we went through the cloud bank and were doing 10 kph.

The monument itself is impressive. Given its closeness to Bassano and other cities in the area, there was more movement up there. On a clear day you can see Venice, but for us we sat atop the clouds, which gave the massive marble ossuary an otherworldliness that I might not have experienced. This was a Mussolini project so it has a certain largeness, but it is clean and quiet and doesn’t take away from the experience. If you look around the area you can still see shell craters. I had wanted to hike around the trails or visit the tunnel next the parking lot, but since the forecast was for rain, and I didn’t want to drive winding mountains in the rain again, we contented ourselves with a cappuccino at the Refugio and started the drive down to Bassano del Grappa. Even this drive was a bit winding especially, when you overlook the Veneto and the road switches back four or fives times in a quick descent.

We stopped at Bassano del Grappa for the rest of the day. Another of these charming towns with Renaissance architecture, frescos painted on the exterior, and pleasant streets to roam. We had planned to stay there, but it was hard to find a hotel we liked. It is a popular place for cyclists given the good climbing you can do in the area. The wooden bridge is the iconic image of Bassano. We could have spent more time there but we needed to move on. We found this place via a Monday Night Travel episode some time ago.

We drove to our agrotourismo Villa Premoli outside of Possagano. It is a 16th century villa converted to a bed and breakfast on the grounds of a prosecco vineyard. Very nice, if slightly out of the way.

Day 9: Asolo & Possagano
We drove 15 minutes over to Asolo. This was one of my favorite small towns. This is another hill town with a very small, abandoned fort, and several towers in the town square. The few streets there are wind amongst narrow lanes. The palazzo is lively with cafes and great views of the Renaissance palazzos and yet more frescos. It was Saturday and the town was full of cyclists using it as a water and coffee stop. There was activity, but it wasn’t overdone. We had lunch at a nice place that overlooked the countryside below.

After lunch we drove over to Possagno. The main attraction here is the Temple of Canova and the Museum Gipsoteca Antonio Canova, both of which celebrate the work of Antonio Canova. The former is his take on the Pantheon in Rome, and the latter is a museum of his plaster molds for his sculptures. Both are beautiful and worth a visit. The town itself seemed dead after Asolo. Asolo was the better choice for lunch.

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Day 10: Villa Masser & Citadella
This was our last day of small towns. We made a quick stop at Sacrario Francese di Pederobba, the French military monument 10 minutes from where we were staying. It was early Sunday morning and a group of locals were cutting the grass.

Villa Masser is a Palladian villa. There are tons of these around, but this was the only one that really fit our agenda. It might be one of the smaller ones. It was quite enjoyable. The frescos in the interior rooms are what make this a gem.

Citadella is a walled town about 30 minutes from Padua. The walls are 95% intact and you can walk the whole ring, which we did. It’s not for those with a fear of heights as it is maybe 30 feet up. The town itself will take you maybe ten minutes to walk from one axis to the other. We also visited a theater that was built in the 1820’s and had lunch at an outside café. There is more to see there, but we only had so much time.

From there we drove to Padua and dropped the car at the train station. We took the tram from the train station to near our hotel, Hotel Canton dell Orto, which looked over the basilica of Saint Anothony.

Part 3:
This section is a more typical journey through Italy, visiting some more well-known sites.

Day 11: Padua
Given we were only able to spend one day viewing sites, and given that it was a Monday many things were closed, but we had a full day of amazing sites.
• Scrovegni Chapel. It is amazing and a must. The way they do the timed tickets, giving you 15 minutes in the chapel is really the best approach to the over tourism issue at popular sites. 15 minutes is enough time, and then number of people is perfect. You don’t feel you are in a sardine can. The museum is very good. Don’t forget to the second floor like we did.
• Chiesa degli Eremitani – make sure to visit this church next to the Chapel. Although it was damaged heavily in an American bombing raid, there are some beautiful frescos.
• Pedrocchi Café – we went there on Ben’s Monday Night Travel suggestion. It was the most expensive coffee we paid for in Italy, 7 Euros, but we were there for the experience. The Pedrocchi Café is a kind of mint mocha, but very subtle. I would order it again.
• Battistero di San Giovanni Battista – This was a surprise. I knew it would be good, but it really was fantastic. It really is a must see and the audio tour and the way they use light to focus your gaze on the relevant points of the are makes this a unique experience.
• Diocesan Museum of Padua – comes with the Battista ticket. Not as impressive, but there are some impressive rooms with frescos.
• The Basilica of St. Anthony – I was pleasantly surprised how beautiful the basilica is. I am a sucker for frescoed ceilings with stary nights. The reliquary collection is something to behold. Well worth a short visit.

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Day 15: Ferrara
On our only full day in Ferrara we stopped at three excellent sites:
• Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Ferrara. It is all finds from the Po river delta and covers much of the pre-Roman period when they were influenced by Greece and the Etruscans. There were some impressive finds. The story of the looting over the years was also interesting. And the building itself had some great rooms. We were the only people there
• Monastery of Sant'Antonio in Polesine – Everyone says this is a special place to visit and it is. The thing that makes it special is the guided tour aspect of it. I know they do English, but we did it in Italian and relied on our Spanish. My wife is a native speaker, so she understood about 80%, me 50%. The single most fascinating fresco was the image of Christ using a ladder to ascend to the cross. Make sure to bring cash for a donation. We were the only people there
• Museo Schifanoia. Another amazing museum of frescos. Really a must. The frescos of the seasons are beautiful and have so many clever little details. We were studying it for ages. Using your phone’s camera as a magnifying glass or having small binoculars will help as it is a bit dark.
Day 16: 6 Hours in Venice
Originally there was no plan to go to Venice. We were going to spend more time in Ferrara, but we tacked one on at the end since our hotel was so close. As soon as the train arrived from Ferrara I knew I wouldn’t like it. The train terminal was so crowded with tourists. We took the number 5 bus to the Marriott, dropped our bags, and caught the bus back. The tap on tap off with your phone was a big help.

Venice is everything I hate about mass tourism, in particular the crowds and the lines that block the narrow streets. Generally, I will plan around it but with Venice that was hard. Yes, Venice takes nice pictures but is the only thing nice I can say about it. I know there are strategies, such as spending the night in the city itself, but the city is still just a tourist city where it is obvious that so much of what is there is for tourists only and the locals have long gone. What’s the point, then? I won’t be going back any time soon.

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A nice report, but I suggest editing the title so people won’t think it’s 20 years old.

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I really enjoy the detailed report with lots of useful information. Thanks for taking the time to share!