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Sensational Switzerland

My wife and I have always enjoyed traveling, taking our first European trip when we were around 25. At that point we picked Switzerland, because it seemed safe, friendly, and beautiful. Since then, we’ve visited Europe every couple of years.

Last year we left the kids at home and had a great time in Austria and Germany. There were so many sights that I thought they would have enjoyed, that this year I decided to take the kids with us despite their lukewarm interest. My son, probably enticed by the thought of good chocolate, suggested Switzerland. Since my wife and I hadn’t been there since that first trip, we thought it a good time to re-visit it.

As usual, my first stop was the Rick Steves videos on the topic. There are two main ones: Great Swiss Cities, and the Jungfrau Region. I enjoy watching the videos to get a general feel for the areas we might want to visit. After that, we pick a couple of places to use as bases, then figure out flights, hotels, and transportation. We generally try to stay three or four nights in each location.

In this case, we figured we’d spend a few days in Lucerne, then a few days in Mürren, then… we wanted to try to relive a portion of our first trip, the Glacier Express. We have fond memories of the long train ride through the many valleys and tunnels, so we wanted to both experience it again, and share it with our kids. The availability of tickets forced us to juggle our schedule a bit, and we ended up with a final couple of days of our trip staying one night in Zermatt and one night in Samedan.

We took an overnight flight from the U.S. to Zürich, then an immediate train to Lucerne. We had purchased an 8-day Swiss rail pass, but were spending 10 days in Switzerland, so we bought train tickets at the airport, and enjoyed the hour or so ride to Lucerne. When we arrived, it was just starting to rain, so we dug out our jackets and dragged our luggage a few blocks (in the wrong direction at first) to our hotel, the Renaissance.

We had booked separate rooms for the kids and for us. Our room wasn’t ready, but the kids’ was. Tired from the trip and not really having slept on the flight, we all piled into the single king bed and slept for a few hours. Once we woke up and unpacked into both rooms, were headed out to stretch our legs, check out the city, and find some dinner.

At this point I’d like to put in a thanks to T-mobile. When we arrived in Zürich and powered up our phones, we received texts telling us that we had free data and texts while in Europe, and that voice calls would be $0.20 per minute. Having a free data connection available everywhere is awesome. It’s great for using with maps, Trip Advisor, Yelp and Deutsche Bahn apps, etc.

Our walk had taken us out near the well-rated Wirsthaus Taube, so we popped in there for our first Swiss meal. The kids are generally picky eaters, which is one of the reasons we don’t take them on every trip, but they were able to find food that they enjoyed, as did we. The food was good, as was the wine. This was typically the case wherever we ate.

Over the next couple of days we visited the Lion, viewed the Panorama, climbed the towers, walked the promenade, and generally enjoyed the city. The Panorama, which I had thought was going to be a 360° view of Lucerne in the mid-1800s was instead a 360° view of men and horses dying during the Franco-Prussian war. I don’t know where I received my mistaken impression.

[To be continued]

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[continued from first post]

The weather having been much cooler than we had anticipated, even though we had checked predictions before arriving, and being about to head to Mürren in the mountains, we spent the last morning in Lucerne shopping for warmer clothing. We then took a series of trains to Mürren, ending directly across from where we’d be spending the next few days, at the Hotel Eiger.

I can’t say enough good things about the Eiger. We were welcomed by the owner, who showed us to our room, where champagne for us and orange juice for the kids was waiting. We had a corner suite, two bedrooms and two bathrooms, with a shared living room. The main feature, however, was the fantastic view of the mountains on the other side of the valley. Being able to sit on the couch or out on the balcony and simply drink in the view was one of the high points of our trip.

Mürren is a wonderful little town that reminds me of Hallstatt in its amazing natural beauty and touristy small-village feel. Everywhere you go, the views are stunning. During the few days of our stay, we visited the Schiltorn, hiked down to Gimmelwald, and climbed through Trümmelbach Falls. The high point of our stay in Mürren, and our overall vacation, was when the whole family went paragliding. We’re not generally risk takers, but for some reason everyone was on board with trying out paragliding. The Eiger arranged the venture, and it was fun and exciting for everyone. The photos and videos taken by the pilots using a GoPro on a stick were completely worth the extra money.

From Mürren, we took the train to Zermatt, where we were going to stay the night in order to catch the Glacier Express to St. Moritz early the next morning. We stayed at Hotel Alpenlodge, a nice little hotel that was sadly disorganized. Nobody answered the courtesy phone when I called from the train station to request a ride to the hotel. When we arrived, we were given the keys but not told which floor our room was on, and I was unable to interrupt the manager’s phone call. Worst of all, when we were about to have breakfast a half-hour before leaving for the train station, our kids got stuck in the elevator, which wouldn’t open for around fifteen minutes, leading to thoughts of missing our appointed train with its pre-purchased lunch. We made it, though, and the hotel sprang for a free ride back to the station.

The Glacier Express, which my wife and I remembered as a delightful old-style train passing through beautiful valleys and over breathtaking bridges, turned out to be simply an 8-hour train ride through beautiful Swiss scenery that we had been seeing for the past week or more. The lunch was good, but was served at our seats rather than in a classic dining car, and it didn’t include the performance-art serving style and wine-pouring tricks that we remembered from our previous trip. We ended up jumping off a stop early, in Samedan, where we spent our last night in Switzerland.

I had never heard of Samedan before planning this trip, but we found it delightful, with plenty of old buildings and cobblestone streets to wander around, shops to peek in, and restaurants to enjoy. We easily could have spent another day or two there, but the next morning we had to catch a train to Zürich and fly back home.

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I am enjoying your trip report, Lee! We are taking the 21 day BOE RS tour next spring and although we will not be all the cities from your trip, it is fun reading about Switzerland! I am especially interested in the chocolate parts :)

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Hi Kathy—

I'm glad you enjoyed the trip report, but I wish I had put more chocolate into it. :-)

At a gelateria in Lucerne, we had the bacio flavor, which we'd had in Italy but had found nowhere else. It's great.

In Zermatt, there's a chocolate shop in a little mall near the train station that has many different kinds of chocolate bark. Our favorite had red peppercorns in the chocolate. So good!

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Lee,
I have enjoyed reading your report. I am planning a similar trip for next June for my family with 2 college age children. I can't decide where to stay Lauterbrunnen vs Murren vs Wengen but after reading your report I am leaning toward Murren. Was it difficult to get from Lucerne to Murren and did you begin to use your swiss pass for that leg of the journey? The paragliding sounds right up our ally did you do that right from Murren? We also want to include Hallstat/ Salzburg and Munich in our trip too but need to figure out the rail pass/car rental options and if it is possible to include all in our 11-12 days. Thank you for your help!
Erin