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Self-Booked Norway in a Nutshell

Norway in a Nutshell

We did the Norway in a Nutshell route from Bergen to Oslo, in one day. I booked everything myself, saving us almost $200 Canadian (for 3 travellers). We were able to take advantage of the minipris advance fare and student fare (for my daughter) by booking ourselves.

We flew to Bergen from Copenhagen early in the morning, arriving at our hotel, the Grand Terminus, before 10 a.m. We were not able to check in that early, of course, but we were able to leave our luggage. Also, the hotel had a lounge/sitting room with a fireplace, coffee, tea, and fruit. So, as it was raining out, we started with coffee and fruit there. Weather reports were predicting a midday break in the rain, so we headed out, walking to the funicular and enjoying the pretty architecture. We took the funicular to the top and headed into the restaurant there for lunch while waiting for the rain to stop. Unfortunately, the rain got heavier and more socked in, meaning there wasn’t much of a view. So, we took the funicular back down and walked to the harbour front. We looked around there a bit, but by this time it was raining even harder. We had planned to take the bus to visit a stave church, but as this also involved a bit of a hike, we abandoned that plan and went back to the hotel to check in. Our room was very nice, with a double bed and a single bed. We got settled in our room and had a bit of a rest while we decided where to go for dinner. We liked the description of Pingvinen in Rick’s book, so that’s where we went. By this time, the rain had let up, so we had a nice walk to the pub, along a park with lovely flowers, statues, and a fountain. At Pingvinen, we had a wonderful meal of whale steak, potatoes, and cabbage. We decided to go back up the funicular, and we had much better luck with the view this time. We then returned to the hotel to shower and get ready for an early start.

The next morning, we had the breakfast buffet at the hotel, and it was very good, as breakfast buffets in Europe are wont to be. Then we crossed the street to the train station to wait for our train. We were the first ones on the platform, and we sat on a bench to wait. I had printed out our tickets at the machine the day before, and purchased the bus tickets, also (which turned out to be a mistake).

We couldn’t figure out, as the time for the train approached, why nobody else was on the platform. There was some construction blocking our view, but we made out that some people were standing in line at the entrance to the platform. We thought they must be on a tour or something, but in retrospect, I think the railroad officials made everybody do this, but we had been directed to that platform long before that. Anyway, the train finally arrived, and everybody rushed on. We managed to get seats that suited us, and the train departed. A few minutes later, the train stopped. We were told there was a problem with the train. We waited a while, wondering what was going on, and then the train returned to the station. There was mass confusion, as we all thought we were supposed to board an adjacent train, but it turned out that wasn’t the case. Ultimately, we were all squeezed onto a shorter train, which everyone rushed to, so getting to the station early did us no good whatsoever. This rushing for seats was the norm for the entire trip. Based on my research, we sat on the right side of the train. This was a mistake. The left side had far better views, in my opinion.

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We arrived at Voss late, but there were numerous buses waiting. Of course, everyone rushed for the closest buses, so we headed farther along, so as not to battle the crowds. Our bus ended up being the second last to depart. We sat on the left side of the bus, and it was okay, but the right side would have been better. We also discovered that our bus tickets, purchased the day before, had expired. So, it is not worth trying to get them in advance. I was prepared to purchase new tickets from the driver, but he kindly let us board with our expired tickets.

When we arrived in Gudvangen, we had no time to look around but headed straight for the ferry. There is an area near the entrance to leave luggage, so that was easy. Of course, the several busloads of people who had arrived before us had rushed to take the seats on the upper deck, and they had spread themselves out in such a way that it was nearly impossible to get onto the deck and find a spot. (i.e. They did not leave a pathway for others to get through.) Ultimately, after squeezing through the chairs, we found a couple of seats on the right hand, front of the deck, beside the cabin. I decided to stand at the front of the boat to start with, and I liked that spot so much, I stood there for the whole two-hour ride. The views were spectacular! From any given spot, one could see several waterfalls. Quaint little villages were nestled on the edges of the fjord, usually near a waterfall, while snowcapped mountains towered above them. We saw a seal, kayakers, and people in traditional dress at a wedding.

We had brought snacks with us, and I was glad, because I heard people saying that the wait to get lunch purchased on the ferry was 40 minutes.

Ultimately, we arrived in Flam, windblown and happy. Although the day before in Bergen had been very rainy, and much of our time afterward in Oslo was also rainy (with a “yellow” warning for rain), we lucked out and had a beautiful, sunny day for our trip through the fjords. It was chilly, though, especially standing in the wind at the front of the boat. (Chilly, but worth it.)

In Flam, we had a couple of hours, so we went for lunch in the Toget Café and found a sunny spot to warm up, with outlets nearby to charge the camera batteries, as I had taken so many pictures from the ferry, I was worried about running out of working batteries. We then went to wait for the Flamsbana, and ended up being first on the platform again. (Actually, another woman was there before us, but the attendant wouldn’t let her onto the platform to save spots for her eight companions who weren’t there yet.) The platform is divided into sections, and we were directed to board different cars in the train depending on where we were on the platform. Once the train arrived and we were allowed to board, of course, people were running to get ahead of us. This was not a problem—just an annoyance—come on, really?—as there were plenty of seats on the train. We sat on the right side of the train, and I think this was a good spot, although the most spectacular waterfall is on the left (but we stopped and got out there). Both sides seemed good, really. Getting out at the waterfall, it was a mob scene, but the waterfall was truly an impressive sight. The dancing woman in the red dress was as cheesy as I’d heard, but it didn’t really detract much from the scenery.

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We rode the Flamsbana the rest of the way up, ending up in winter at the top of the world. We waited for about an hour and a half at Myrdal for our train to Oslo. On the train to Oslo, we sat on the right side, but I think the left would have been better overall, with more valleys and lakes to see later on. The train to Oslo was not very busy, so this part of the trip was more relaxing. This train, part of the Bergen Railroad, travels along the tops of the mountains for an hour or so, through a frozen moonscape. It was truly stunning. It was drizzling a bit on the mountaintops, but not enough to interfere with the views. The scenery on the rest of the trip into Oslo was less amazing, but only in comparison, really. It was beautiful. We were fortunate in that we travelled at a time of year where we had light until we were in the city.

We arrived in Oslo and caught a bus to our apartment – Frogner House- which was beautiful and comfortable.

Overall, in spite of the glitches and the crowds, we were all very glad we did this. Norway is outstandingly gorgeous—and we are fairly jaded, living near Banff National Park, which has some of the most beautiful scenery on Earth. Our daughter, who has been going to school in Europe for the past year and has travelled extensively to many countries said that this was one of her very best days in Europe.

I do think those who have the time to spend a night en route and travel outside of the most crowded, Nutshell times, are wise, though, especially in summer. We did our trip on May 21, which is supposed to be slightly ahead of the peak season, and it was much too crowded for my liking, as I really don’t enjoy when tourism turns into a race and a competition.

Anyway, other than the bus ticket, we didn't have any problems as a result of having booked Norway in a Nushell ourselves. I had used the itinerary on the official site as a guide for times, and it worked out fine.