Scotland! (Isle of Skye, Glasgow, Edinburgh) Trip Report Part 3

ISLE OF SKYE

An Torr/Signal Rock Circuit
We are not experienced hikers but we are relatively active and enjoy natural beauty. This was the perfect length for a stop along the way. We spent about an hour, taking photos and our time. This is a beautiful forest walk and there are no epic views, even from the rock, which is surrounded by trees. The paths are reasonably well trod but there are plenty of spaces where it’s unclear. I can’t recommend the Walkhighlands app highly enough. It has a map and very clear directions that note landmarks and it also has a gps feature to show you where you are on the path.

Note- if you are at all unsteady or have joint issues, climbing onto the rock itself won’t be practical and there are a few spots along the trail that might be slippery or troublesome.

Aldi (Fort William)
Yes, Aldi is getting it's own spot on the list... anyone have a problem with that? ;) Aldi back home is great, but it’s really on another level in Europe. We got a large pre-made pan of paella for around €5 (Serves 2-3), and a carton of raspberries and one of cherry tomatoes for a euro each. A restaurant-quality caramelized onion flatbread was less than €4. We got some granola bars and water as well.

Ardcana
Agoda sent a 60% off offer to stay after I had perused options for weeks. The cabins are very lovely and modern with luxurious bathrooms and a large viewing window facing the mountains and water. (The view is interrupted by messy yards, old cars, clotheslines etc if that matters to you.) Despite the word “luxury" mentioned at every opportunity, the proprietor didn't provide sugar (forget milk) or cooking oil and this was not mentioned ahead of time even though the listing mentioned there was a fully stocked kitchen. Even the budget hotels and hostels I’ve stayed in have provided milk, sugar and cooking oil. (There was, at least, salt and pepper.)

She also requested we tidy and do our own dishes, but the previous guests had left grease-smeared pans and a dirty kettle.

There was a fire pit outside and when I messaged about where to find wood, the host mentioned a store 15 minutes away, noting the place may or may not have any.

No check-in instructions or directions were sent ahead of time. When we contacted the host at 5pm on check-in day, she sent the info and reminded us that check-in wasn’t until 4pm. (I assume she copied and pasted previously written directions?) It’s a newish property so the hosts may still be getting their footing.

Trotternish Loop
We stayed two nights so we had a day in the middle to explore. There is so much one could stop and do along the loop. You could take a few days, or if you are just driving, it would make a lovely morning.

Eilean Donan Castle
Tickets are £11.00 and the hours change seasonally but it’s open nearly every day, save January. This is one of the most popular castles on social media and that’s because it’s so very picturesque with its walking bridge set against the castle, mountains and water- basically Scottish Disneyland castle with a bit of history- a recreation with a gift shop, but there is enough history for the buffs. We saw one travel post suggest a 3-day Highlands itinerary and day 2 was just “Eilian Donan”. If you are very slow and meticulous, you’d have a hard time spending 3 hours.

Quiraing Walk
This is one of the most amazing things I’ve ever done. I’m a city girl when it comes to travel but I’m so glad we took the time to visit Isle of Skye and take this hike. It’s classified as easy (There is only a single moment of “climbing” required. The app refers to it as a “quick scramble” as you step on stones through a waterfall gorge), but that doesn’t mean it’s not treacherous. There are plenty of spots in which one could perish for a single false step and the rocks are slippery when encountered. If you’ve got even the slightest hangup with heights, it’s not a good idea. It was quiet when we were there but I can’t even imagine trying to pass others at some of the narrower points.

The very back end of the trail is being restored with rock and sand, but it’s through fields and is not clearly marked the entire way. This isn’t a huge issue since it opens into a hillside with a view of the car park, but it was not rainy before we hiked and the hill was utterly saturated. I slipped enough to muddy one side of my pants and the prints in front of us indicated nearly everyone preceding us had taken some slides along the way as well. Also, you should enjoy close encounters with sheep.

The Walkhighlands app was invaluable as there are many offshoots from adventurous travelers heading off onto cliff tops or dead ends and several spots where the trail is washed out.

The views cannot be captured in words. Each time we thought we’d seen the most stunning, nature outdid herself again.

Cafe Arriba (Portree)
Pricey for such a simple homey vibe and they were out of everything we tried to order so we went to another cafe...

Relish (cafe, Portree)
Very good coffee, very nice staff, very nice baked goods (the sandwiches looked nice too, but we packed lunch)

Deli Gasta
Nice, big, fresh sandwiches and homemade soups. Reasonably priced.

Urquart Castle
Tickets are £14.50 at the window but £13 online. It’s open daily. Though this is only “ruins”, the ruins themselves are actually modern recreations of… well, ruins. There is plenty of interesting history (although the intro movie is a bit sensationalized and selective). There are Loch Ness cruises that include a stop at the castle and I’m told the views are far better from the water. If we’d had the time, I think this would have been more enjoyable.

Dunnotar Castle
Open 361 days a year and £10.50 entry. This was far and away our favorite castle of the trip. From what we have read so far, it was strategically less important than several others, but famously hid the Scottish crown jewels from Cromwell’s army. The grounds are sprawling and there are many original ruins with footprints or even whole floors (no roof) intact. They’ve only closed access to upper levels recently, but you can still weave in and out of dozens of rooms including a mansion, servant’s quarters, prison hold, and kitchens.

There is a long-ish walk from the car park and steep stairs leading up, but the castle park itself isn’t difficult to navigate. The cliffs and roaring sea are the stuff of movies and novels. A few brave souls were hang gliding over the ruins.

EDINBURGH
I was able to visit in September and there is just no place like it so I was happy to return.

It was much busier this spring.

We stayed in the “Editor” apartment, Linton Collection North Bridge. We booked 7 months ahead of time on a special offer, so it looks like the price has shot up, but the location is fantastic, the apartment was modern but still had a certain Gatsby+Edinburgh feel that grounded it. The staff was extremely quick to respond and solve the problem when the washer didn’t work, but it was not sparkling clean. The apartments are very large (residential) so I think it may just be too much to clean after each stay since they allow any length. Things like the baseboards and corners had gathered dust/fuzz/hair, even in the bathroom.

Princes Street Gardens
It takes so little effort to stroll through the gardens since they’re on the way to almost anything in the New Town, but it could still be easily passed by if you’re just following google. J was after a good look at the gardener’s cottage in particular, but it’s a really nice stroll to the Ross fountain, where you can get some stellar photos with Edinburgh Castle as your backdrop.

Scott Monument
This is really hard to miss and it’s worth viewing up close. We didn’t take the steps to the top.

Victoria Street
I suppose one could visit Edinburgh without a walk along Victoria… but why would you? It gets very crowded, but early in the morning and late at night, you can stroll freely. If you want to shop, you’ll have to brave the crowd, but there are some really fun shops. Stroll down to Grassmarket and go to the market on a weekend or get some ice cream/visit a pub/cafe. .

Cockburn Street
Victoria’s fraternal twin? Plenty of views and shops here too.

Dean Village
This has become more popular since our last visit. There is nothing to “do” per se, but it’s very picturesque. If you’re into lovely old homes and streets and want to feel you’ve escaped into a little village in a mere 15 minute walk from the action, it would be worth your time. I generally try to be conscious of the residents in tourist-ridden cities, but with Dean Village, especially, the residents did not ask for this and I don’t think they expected it either, so I try to tread lightly.

Greyfriars Kirkyard
Immersively atmospheric and best enjoyed with a guide.

Leith Walk/Water of Leith Walkway
We’ve taken portions of this 12.2 mile walk a few times and it ranges from timeless and other-worldly to crumbling and polluted, depending on the area. We walked all the way to Leith this last time and enjoyed the escape from the crowds and the beautiful and sometimes odd sights along the way.

Roseleaf Cafe (Leith)
We were looking for a place to have a full Scottish (J) before we left and I had never had sticky toffee pudding and wanted a place that would let me order it for brunch. We got both in this eccentric and eclectic family cafe. It’s worn down but cheery and the food was good.

Banh Mi Bar (The Arches, Edinburgh)
Hard to find, tiny inside, but the reviews are earned. Lovely proprietor, beautiful ingredients. Options to customize for taste or dietary need. We were so glad we had one of these wrapped up with us when our flight was delayed.

The Milkman
Lauded, but often closed when we went by, we finally caught them and got very good (but not mind blowing) pastries. Their coffee options were limited.

Pakora Bar
My son, who does not care for cauliflower, still dreams of the cauliflower pakora from here and threatened to disown me if I didn’t return and allow him to live vicariously. They moved to a new, bright location, but the food was a letdown. It’s family owned and the family is very nice, but they seemed in over their heads at the newer location and our pakora was undercooked (some still gooey batter in the middle and hard cauliflower). The menu didn’t mention the wrap would be loaded with spicy onions and when we asked the waiter said “Of course! They’re on everything!” Oops. Too much of a good thing. We got an eggplant curry as well, but it was really just more onions with a couple cubes of eggplant… and I do mean a couple.

Bread Meats Bread
Important note. It is not always easy to find food at night in Edinburgh. You can drink till all hours, but if you’re hungry and don’t want fast food, plan ahead.) We did not intend to go here, but, after a dozen attempts, we were happy for an open kitchen. Anyhow, the sweet potato fries were very good.

Scran
Wildly popular though it may be, it’s for instagram purposes only, IMO. We were up against the dreaded 3pm/4pm closure of most casual eateries in the old town and it was next to our apartment. It took 30 minutes to get a waiter and water (only after going up to the counter and asking 4 chatting staff if they might be willing to take our order.) J’s pancakes arrived (literally) less than 3 minutes later. As you might imagine, they had not been freshly prepared and were as rubbery as you’d expect from microwaved pancakes. I got a “scone”. (I think maybe from a frozen restaurant pack?) After all that, we had to go back to the counter and practically beg for the check. I could not be induced to return.

Dishoom
This has been recommended… and recommended. After a couple weeks of traditional pub fare, it was appealing. There was a long line as I’d been warned about, but it moved very quickly, the staff served us hot chai and I happened to be in line next to a couple originally from Pittsburgh… They were in Edinburgh to see their son perform Swan Lake professionally- how fantastic?!

This was my favorite dining experience of the trip. The warm and lively atmosphere, the gorgeous decor and the wonderful and genuine service was only topped by the food. It was rich but light; simple but complex, sour/sweet/tangy/savory… all the good things. And priced well to boot.

Thanks for this write up as well. I love Scotland so much but have spent more time in Glasgow and not yet made it to Skye.

Fun fact : we lived in Scotland for a little over a year when I was a child, and we stayed the first few weeks in a hotel in Stonehaven (the town next to Dunnottar) before moving to our house. I was mad that our mom never took us to visit the castle and finally rectified that with a visit 40 years later (seven years ago) ! It is SO atmospheric there !!

Sleight, this trip report is amazing! Thank you so much for all the detail! I am heading to Scotland in three days and will definitely be accessing this while I am there and even before. It sounds like you had a wonderful time!

Love your report! We are leaving for Scotland on May 29, and we will be spending 4 nights on Skye. I want to do the Quirang walk but your description makes me a bit nervous. Why do you say a wrong slip could be perilous? Is it very steep, high, or on the edge? Based on my research, I didn't think this was a perilous walk. There are 4 of us, and we are all in our early to mid 70's. Is it worth it to just drive out there, even if we don't do the walk? I assume the drive must be scenic. Or is it worth it to do a partial walk for the views?
Thank you!

Thanks for the report. You were able to see a lot in Edinburgh for the short amount of time you were there. This gives me hope that I’ll get to everything on my list when I head to Edinburgh next week.

kmkwoo, I was wondering the same thing about the hiking. @Sleight, is it really that perilous? And I do have a fear of heights. I can sometimes contain it, but it depends on the circumstances.

To those who are worried about the Quirang hike, I’d say that, like beauty, peril is in the eye of the beholder. So I’d recommend you go, lace up your hiking shoes and set off. If you feel unsafe or frightened by the path or drop offs, turn back. If you feel it’s not for you, that’s fine - I recall my oft repeated mantra “he who fights and runs away, lives to run away another day”! But if you find you are OK with the route and conditions underfoot, it’s a magnificent part of the world with tremendous views, particularly behind you as you start out.

The only serious ‘hands out of pockets’ part I recall from my wander about up there was a steep grassy climb and descent to and from ‘The Table’ but again, if you can hack it, a memorable location.

Ian

@Mardee
I don't know if it would be enjoyable if you dislike heights, but I think moving helps. The hike is about 3 hours if you're taking your time and you could happily spend 30 minutes heading off on the trail and if you got uncomfortable, you could turn back as the subsequent poster suggests. The trail doesn't narrow immediately and the views are beautiful from the start. There are many spots where close encounters with height are a matter of choice and it's clear from the tracks, many are comfortable strolling up to the edge.

And there are plenty of stretches in which tripping would result in disaster. I don't think peril is quite as subjective as beauty. A dandelion is a weed or a beauty. A broken bone is a broken bone. But the trail is not statistically problematic. I was told people have been rescued from it (primarily because they hiked in bad weather- I wouldn't attempt it in high winds or ice), but I saw no reports of deaths there. (TBH, as an American, I was kind of surprised. We seem to be able to have accidents in the most benign places. Sometimes I think our obsession with guardrails has made us lose our common sense.)

This is what most of the trail looks like. This and this are other parts... with a good bit of this and some nice gentle areas like this.

As far as "hands out of pockets", as I said, it's a walking trail, not a climbing one... but I definitely had my hands ready for use. An amusing tweet my partner found as we departed the area https://twitter.com/Browna27/status/1437442040099479558

I personally felt more invigorated than relieved at the end of the hike. It is most definitely magnificent and to say I don't regret it is an understatement. I'm young but the condition of my joints is degenerative. I will be holding this day very dear for the rest of my life, I think.

@kmwoo
If I were in your shoes, I would play it by ear based on comfort level and trail conditions. There are absolutely parts where you can fall to your death if you stumble (see photos), but no one has yet, so if you are experienced and steady on your feet, I doubt you'll be the first! It's totally worth the drive since the drive itself is beautiful and there are lovely sights at the trail head regardless.

Thanks, Sleight - I think I will check it out and see how it goes. As you said, I can always turn back. :)

Thanks Sleight! We are not experienced hikers at our age any more. We used to do a lot of hiking and backpacking when we were in our 20's but that was obviously a long, long time ago. And I wouldn't describe us as 100% steady on our feet any more, either. Age is catching up to us. I have fallen 3 times in the last 15 years and have fractured my ankles. We did some easy hikes in Glacier National Park in 2021 but weather conditions were dry, and the trails weren't steep so if we fell I suppose we could have fractured an ankle but we wouldn't have fallen to our deaths.

Based on what you said, we will definitely drive to the Quirang and most likely start the hike, and we can always turn back as you say if we feel we aren't comfortable doing the full hike. As you said, the views are beautiful from the beginning. And I plan on wearing my hiking boots.

Thank you so much for your helpful trip report!
Karen

Sleight, I just looked at your photos. The first photo looks fine, but the second and third photos are a bit scary to me. I can see one of us tripping and falling, and either falling off the cliff, never to be seen again, or at the very least injuring ourselves. Most likely we will walk for about half an hour to see the beautiful views, and then turn around. We will be in the area anyways because we plan to drive the Trotternish Loop.
Thank you!