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Scandinavia Rick Steves Tour 5.22 - 6.04.2022

Where do I start? I’ve always wanted to see this remote part of Europe, my grandmother was born in Sweden so I’ve always been curious about “my people”. I’ve heard a lot about how happy Scandinavians are and how they like or don’t mind paying taxes for the government benefits they receive. This seems to have been confirmed by my guide on the tour, Gabriella, a terrific, passionate, and approachable RS guide. I’m sure he is proud of her.
I and 2 friends arrived 3 days early, the 2nd day we took the train to Uppsala, had lunch, shopped, and enjoyed the University town. The other 2 days, we went to Djurgarden, ABBA Museum, underwhelming, and saw the Saluhall, one of the best food courts in the world. Don’t miss this. One of my friends insisted on shopping everywhere. On my own, I would have seen the Drottningham Palace & the Nordic Museum. But, traveling with others, sometimes requires lots of compromise.

The tour: we had 22 people which is a good number in my opinion especially for eating in smaller restaurants that Rick likes. The weather was fantastic, coolish in the 60’s and in Norway colder in the mountains, 2 days there I had to wear my fleece jacket. Most of the women on the tour wore their fleece jackets everyday of the entire tour. Not me, I’m warm natured. Many days I only wore my ¾ length tops with my outer layer jacket (water resistant). We had rain and drizzle on the day in Kalmar which called for an umbrella. Many days we had brilliant blue skies except for 2 days in Bergen (& 2 days of blue skies, I had to stay an extra day because of a canceled KLM flight to AMS). Very windy in Copenhagen for 2 days and for 2 days on Aero Island.

The tour itinerary: Rick Steves designs his itineraries very carefully and this one is no exception. Every stop serves a purpose of introducing you to some important aspect of the country’s history, culture, etc. The local guides were excellent, the ones I especially liked were: Mia the guide for Kalmar Castle, she was young and very informative and engaging in her presentation and she was in costume which I liked. Excellent gift shop with quality items for sale.

I almost forgot to mention our visit to the Vasa Museum, Gabby did the tour of it and then our free time allowed us to linger in the museum. Extraordinary!

Special note about the local guides in Stockholm: It is a family affair!! Our guide for Gamla Stan, the Old Town, was Gabby’s father, forgive me, I have forgotten his name! We were so charmed by him and he promptly invited all 22 of us into his apartment in the Old Town. Gabby grew up here. We all gathered in his living room filled with floor to ceiling bookshelves and comfy sofas and chairs. They answered many of questions about life in Stockholm. Next day on our way out of town to Kalmar, we stopped at the Stockholm City Hall to meet our local guide, Ylva, who is Gabby’s mother! We learned about the history of it and the banquet for the Noble Prizes (physics, chemistry, medicine, literature, sciences) held here every December (the Noble Peace Prize is given in Oslo, Norway). Several tourmates visited the Oslo Peace Center in their free time and they enjoyed it. We toured the Munch Museum in Oslo in our free time and had an amazing lunch in the Museum Cafe, highly recommend the paintings and the food.

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Jane,
I haven't finished, I'm going to post on this thread the rest of my report as I write it. I hope people will write their questions and I can answer as I go along.

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Hotels: I liked all the hotels as they are centrally located in each city/town. Outstanding was our B&B on Aero Island and the Mountain B&B! Special mention should be made about the cabins dotting the mountainside that has been in existence since 1858 and operated by the same family. The dinner the owners cooked for us was wonderfully delicious using local ingredients. As many of you already know, Europe is the hotbed for local food/slow food as the movement is variously know. Breakfasts were always plentiful and delicious with a wide variety of bread, eggs, meats, fruits, cereals, etc. A special note is the breads were outstanding all over Scandinavia! Omg, the variety of breads wasn’t just whole wheat or rye or whatever, I couldn’t tell what kind it was but my mouth was in love with the bread there!
Group dinners: I’m not a foodie although I do like gourmet meals. It’s that I’m not demanding that every group meal be outstanding. Gabby and our darling bus driver shopped for picnic meals for us on bus days and that was always interesting and fun to try new foods. We ate outside at picnic tables in Sweden as many locals do when on road trips. At our mountain B&B, Gabby taught us how to make our lunch “packet” how I interpreted the term, to take for our lunch that day on the way to Flam to take the ferry for the Sognefjord cruise. In Copenhagen, Hans Christian Andersen showed up in his formal dress of the 19th Century and gave us a charming rendition of the Little Mermaid in the restaurant while we ate dinner. We had seafood often from herring to salmon and cod, reindeer and pork. At the Aero Island group dinner, the hostess said Rick Steves wanted us to have a traditional Danish Christmas dinner and so we did. It was delicious! Another note, for all group dinners, you could have wine, you had to pay for it separately. On my credit card statement, each glass cost anywhere from $12-15 a glass.
Money: I almost never used cash there. In Stockholm at the airport, the taxi driver said his credit card machine was broken so I gave him $80 USD. I don’t know if he was telling the truth or not but there were 3 of us with our luggage after a 9-hours overnight flight plus a 3-hour layover and we weren’t going to argue with him. As I said, we arrived 3 days early before the tour and one friend didn’t have a debit card and wanted to get some cash, this was before we realized that no one uses cash anymore. She and I ventured out to find a bank. We found Bankomat from which I got some cash with my debit card. It could be because we are not locals, but it took some searching to find a bank in Stockholm. We found one and banged on the door to be let in, like a couple of idiots! We were told you had to be a private client with an appointment, that you could not just walk into a bank as in America. I had to work to spend my cash in SEK before we got to Denmark.

Language: Everyone we encountered spoke excellent English. Gabby taught us a smattering of phrases in all 3 languages. I tried to learn a few but it was not easy to remember on the spot when you needed to use thanks, which is tak, for example. In Norwegian, they like to say tusin tak, meaning a thousand thanks!

Packing: My big regret is I brought a 24-inch 4 wheel spinner because of the heavier clothing I thought was needed for cold weather. I realize it could have been cold enough for these items but it turned out to be milder weather. For the most part, I could carry my own luggage but there were 2 places where some of the kind men on the tour offered to help when they saw me struggle. I have vowed never to use this suitcase again on an international trip. For my next trip, which is to Florence, in September, I’m bringing 2 carryon pieces. I think I’m out of space so I will write more in another post.

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3561 posts

Thanks for your report Judy. I hope to get back to some if the places on this tour and visit some ( like Sweden) for the first time. While it’s not a tour in my top five, it’s a maybe someday.

Judy, just a note-under your profile did you mean for your type to be so big?

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Judy B, the lines with your two most recent RSE tours are larger and brightly colored.

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Highlights of the tour:

I loved the itinerary because it gave me a taste of the best each country offers;
• Sweden – Stockholm’s Gamla Stan, Gabby’s family home visit & meeting both her delightful parents and learning about their lives. Hotel was the Wellington, a Clarion Collection Hotel, centrally located
o The Vasa Museum is a MUST, Stockholm City Hall, home of the Noble Prize Banquet and Djurgarden, walking through the parks
o Kalmar and the Kalmar Castle – history of the Swedish struggle against the Danes
• Denmark - Copenhagen – our hotel, Hotel Bethel, a former red brick church, was right on the Nyhavn or the New waterfront. Strolling through the pedestrian areas of town and the waterfront, I felt the city’s prosperity and the Royal presence. We saw young fathers wheeling their beautiful children in strollers. Lots of outdoor sculptures. 1 friend and I were determined to find the Little Mermaid, she was so little and not at all dominant on her rock’s perch as we imagined. We did love Hans Christian Andersen at our dinner! Not enough time in this charming city!
o Denmark – Roskilde, Roskilde Cathedral, 12th Century with the tombs of most of the Danish Kings and Queens. We toured this magnificent place.
o The amazing Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde which displays 5 Viking ships discovered in the inlet, Roskilde fjord. They were excavated and preserved in the 1960’s and are now housed in this museum.
o Aero Island – 2 nights in charming Aeroskobing, the village on this delightful island was a relaxing highlight of the tour. Everyone loved our stay here! Our local guide told us pre-Covid, there were 5,500 weddings performed there every year! His wife was the main Wedding Planner and they were trying to restart the business.
• Norway – I think most of our tour mates were looking toward Norway as their main highlight of the tour. I also loved Norway, all of it, the spectacular natural scenery as well as the cities.
o Oslo – I read an article before I went on the tour calling Oslo, the capital of Nordic Cool and I agree. The oil-rich nation is pouring money into cultural amenities such as the Oslo Opera House and the renovation and move to the waterfront of the Munch Museum! I’m sure there are many other renovations and restorations going on that I’m not aware of, but Oslo is an amazing place to walk. We walked up the entire gradual ramp outside the Opera House, I have no idea how far it was, but you eventually reach the roof and can look out onto the waterfront! We were there about 9 pm and it was still daylight, sunset was at 11 pm. There are tours of the Opera House you can book online, ask at your hotel or your tour guide. Our hotel in Oslo was a Thon Hotel Cecil, a lovely hotel!
o Frogner Park has the extraordinary Gustav Vigeland Sculptures, a MUST see. There are 192 sculptures he made of bronze and granite statue groupings on the land the city of Oslo provided for his sculpture park. Vigeland even planned the landscaping.
o Fram Museum with the ship that modern-day Vikings Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen sailed to the Arctic regions; this is the amazing original ship.

o Kon-Tiki Museum with the story of Thor Heyerdahl who sailed on the Kon-Tiki and then the Ra II raft. His story is heroic, he devoted himself to researching the peoples of Easter Island.

More to come, still writing!

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14731 posts

Judy, what a fun and interesting trip! Thanks for taking the time to write it up and post!

Usually the big type is due to starting that line with a character. For instance:

The pound sign at the front gives big letters and somehow underlines the text with a yellow stripe.

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Thanks, Pam. I’ve removed the pound sign, hopefully this fixes the problem.

I’m glad you like my trip report. I plan to add more posts.

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The tour of the Oslo Opera/ Ballet House is excellent. You get to see all sorts of fascinating “ behind the scenes” areas- stage sets in storage as well as those being constructed, costumes and how quick changes work, ballet practices, etc. It is well worth the modest price.

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TravelingMom,
One of my tourmates who stayed after the tour in Norway for a few days emailed me that she took the Opera House tour and enjoyed it. She also toured the new public library across the street from the opera house and sent me pictures of the interesting designs inside. Oslo as a city loves public sculptures and we saw interesting art on many squares and in parks. The Vigeland Sculpture Park within Frogner Park as I mentioned earlier is monumental and a world class art destination. It’s too bad it is not more well known; maybe the locals like it this way because they generally have the vast park to themselves!

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o Kon-Tiki Museum with the story of Thor Heyerdahl who sailed on the Kon-Tiki and then the Ra II raft. His story is heroic, he devoted himself to researching the peoples of Easter Island.
o Day 11 – we drove from Oslo to Lillehammer and the Maihaugen Open-Air Folk Museum! The village was moved from other parts of Norway to this spot. Amazing cabins with sod roofs and an other-worldly 12th Century Stave church. Our local guide told us about life back then. It’s a beautiful setting and several employees (I assume) were wearing the costumes of the past. One of the reasons I love Europe is the wonderful Cathedrals but the Stave churches here are jaw-dropping. Norwegians used the materials at hand to build their churches and timber was plentiful, not stone as in the rest of Europe. There are fewer than a hundred left in Norway when centuries ago there were thousands.

o At this stop, there is also an Olympics Museum and a Nordic History Museum which we toured in our free time (wish we had more time at this stop). This is the best history museum I have ever toured!
o Day 11 – We are leaving Lillehammer on our way to the Jotunheimen Mountains for our 1 night stay at the rustic and charming Roisheim B&B. We arrived at a collection of cabins dotting the mountainside! It was drizzly and the ground was wet and slippery. We checked into our cabin with 4 separate bedrooms and a living area with comfy sofa, coffee table and chairs. Mountaineers have stayed here since 1858. One of the best places we stayed. This tour is full of wonderful surprises! Dinner was fantastic, I already noted that earlier in my report.
o Day 12 – A spectacular day of scenery, all white, misty with snow everywhere! Our bus driver is exceptionally skilled and in command of the bus on the super windy and narrow road! We were driving down the 8,000+ foot Jotunheimen to Flam where we met our ferry for a leisurely cruise on the Sognefjord. It was a dream day, not rainy but a little bit chilly. We slept in Bergen this evening; hotel is Thon Hotel Rosenkrantz a block from the waterfront.
o Day 13 – Gabby took us on a walking tour of the Hanseatic wharf area (the entire town is a Unesco Heritage site). The original itinerary was to ride the funicular to the top of Mount Floyen but Covid intervened and she took us to a testing center as several tour mates were flying home the following day. She gave us each our funicular pass so we could do it in our free time. Our farewell dinner was tonight and there were only 16 of us because 5 people had tested positive and had to quarantine in the hotel. Nonetheless, dinner was hearty and filled with toasts to our sweetheart of a guide, Gabby! Wine was included in the dinner this one time.
o Day 14 – We met for breakfast and walked to the testing center only to receive an email from KLM that our flight was canceled to Amsterdam. I don’t want to go into all the efforts we had to make to get on a flight to Amsterdam that would connect us to a Delta flight to Atlanta. We had to take a taxi to the airport to talk to a person to change our tickets. Bottom line: we had to fly home a day later. And yes, we had to test a second time, both of us were negative both times.
o Our additional day in Bergen the gray, cloudy and drizzly weather gave way to brilliant blue skies and a cheerful sunny day. I promptly went out with my iPhone and took pictures of everything I had taken the days before just so I could look at a blue-sky background! I guess that proves I’m crazy after all.
I apologize for this lengthy report, when I started, I intended to be brief, but this tour called for details. I loved it so much and wanted to convey the wonder of what I saw, learned, and experienced.

Images, Memories, and final thoughts: Super clean cities and villages, red houses in the Swedish countryside, picnic tables at rest stops.

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Stave churches, dripping ice from the melting glaciers in the Nordic History Museum in Lillehammer, Maihaugen Open-Air Folk Museum. Aero Island and its colorful homes. Beautiful architecture, interesting histories of each of these 3 countries. Norse folk tales and Viking history, Viking ships. English spoken everywhere, helpful people. Signs of Royalty with palaces in Stockholm, Copenhagen and Oslo. Many excellent meals, of course, Norway’s glorious natural beauty. These are countries with socialistic governments with citizens that seem very satisfied with their lot in life.

I travel because I’m a romantic about traveling and perhaps I didn't include as much or the kind of details some of you may be seeking. If you ask, I will try to answer.

Thanks for reading if you made it this far!

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10193 posts

What a delightful report, Judy ! Thank you.

I loved my time in Norway last year and so want to go back !

Am excited to "taste" Copenhagen in a couple of weeks -- including being taken around a bit by a dear friend who has lived there for a few years.

Thank you for your report. Loved your "impressionistic" reflections to wrap up !

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Kim,
Enjoy Copenhagen, I definitely want to visit it again in the future! I hope you will post about your trip. I agree with you, I think Norway 🇳🇴 is a stunning place to visit. I picked up a book there by a Norwegian writer called The Bell in the Lake by Lars Mytting. It’s a terrific novel set in 1880’s Norway in a small mountainous village filled with mystery, Norse tales, farmers living on the edge and an historic Stave Church that outsiders from Germany want to move to Dresden. A Pastor new to the village makes a deal with the Germans to dismantle it and transport it. If you like to read about a place you have visited, this is a book for you that will make you want to go back.

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Thank you for sharing, Judy! These trip reports are really helpful. Did anyone opt for a morning bike ride on Aero?

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Mike,
There were about 7 or 8 people who went on the bike ride with Gabby. I didn’t because it was a very windy day, picture postcard blue skies and coolish temperatures. The report was they enjoyed exploring the island. I think they were gone an hour or so.

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Thank you so much Judy, I'm going next month.
I have a few questions:
1. Should I get any local currency in any of the countries?
2. Do any hottels offer laundry services? ( Im on Lufstanza due to airline changes, and have to take a VERY small carry-on)
3. You said the cab diver accepted US mnoney, does that happen often?
4. I thnk it may be colder thatn I anticipated. Was your weather typical?- looks like I wont need capris or shorts.

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Catsunderfoot,

Questions:
1. No, I wouldn’t get local currency because merchants and businesses everywhere asked for credit cards only. I only had one card that was tappable and credit cards that had to be inserted or swiped were accepted everywhere. I mentioned in my trip report that I did get some Swedish Kroner at an ATM but found it was a challenge to spend it. I did find a couple convenience stores that would take the Kroner.
2. Hotel laundry services: I don’t know if laundry service was on offer because I did sink washing along the way. Perhaps other tour members can weigh in on this. You can also call the RS office, you will find them very helpful.
3. Cab driver at Stockholm airport & US Dollars: I didn’t encounter this anywhere else. I remembered reading somewhere Rick Steves suggesting we bring $200 in cash on. us when traveling in Europe. That’s why I had US cash on me. I’m going to Italy in September and plan to have $200 cash on me.
4. Clothing for your August tour: I would track temperatures for this region on timeanddate.com. You can find up to 2 weeks of temperatures for each destination on the tour. I would bring capris for Sweden and Denmark along with long pants and perhaps warmer clothing for Norway. I’m warm natured and only wore my fleece jacket one or two days at the most in Norway.

5. Daylight: Stockholm today - sunset is 9:50 pm and sunrise is 3:57 am, that’s 6 hours of darkness! When I was in Stockholm in mid-May, it was 11 pm and 4:30 am. The twittering birds greeted us every morning at 4:30 am! Gabby told us the reason their strawberries are so sweet is because the longer hours of daylight. Who knew? You will learn so much on this tour.
6. Tips/things I’m glad I did: in Stockholm, take the train to Uppsala,a university town that’s very walkable and nice to wander. There are outdoors stores if you need to buy any clothing items you will need for the tour. Rain gear or hats or another jacket to layer. Definitely arrive 2 or 3 days early. I’ve read that Visby is a cool day trip, I didn’t do this. Unless you are a huge ABBA fan, avoid their museum on the Djurgarden. We didn’t go to Skansen but I read you need to go there near the end of the day for the live performances.
In Stockholm, go to the Saluhall, rated the best food court in the world. It’s amazing and has restaurants that I’m sure the food is fantastic. Also, two of our tour mates went on the boat tour of the archipelago- I wish we had done this.
In Oslo, try to book a tour of the Opera House, I heard it was fantastic. Do go to the Munch Museum in Oslo and have the best lunch of your life in the museum cafe! I was impressed by the range of his paintings and the length of his career. I loved his version of “Starry Night” and bought a refrigerator magnet. Who knew?
In Copenhagen, I wish I had toured the Palace, it costs approximately $40 for entry. There’s just more to see and not enough time.

By the way , I love your profile name, I have 2 cats 🐈 too.

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2510 posts

Catsunderfoot,
To answer your question - what food or drink I would recommend. I tried things I would normally not eat but I enjoyed experimenting with herring and all kinds of seafood. We had a Smorresbord lunch on Ærø Island with Schnapps and open faced sandwiches, so delicious! Also, everywhere bread was amazing, so many varieties. Every hotel offered an extensive buffet breakfast. You will not go hungry.

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1022 posts

Judy - thanks for the good info. I still am suffers from hey jet lag. We go home a week ago. Have not had time to do trip reports. We leave again a week from today. We are arriving in Stockholm two days before tour. Did you take the train into town from airport?

Kim

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Hi Kim,
We took a taxi from the airport to our hotel in Stockholm. There were 3 of us so we split the cost. The driver had a broken credit card machine so he asked for US dollars, we gave him $80 US. He was satisfied with that. The exchange rate went like this, approximately, whatever we were quoted, say 500 Swedish Kroner, we divided by 10 and that was the dollar amount.

By the way, our hotel was the Wellington a Clarion Collection hotel. It was on Storgaten.
I know you will love this tour!

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10193 posts

Thanks for the book recommendation Judy ! That sounds fab.

Kim in OK - we took the train in from Arlanda to town. I seem to remember there was a discount if you booked your ticket so many days ahead, so check on line and see whether you are still within that window. It was fast, easy, comfortable, and convenient. A far cry from taking the RER in from CDG !!!

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6971 posts

We took a taxi from the airport to our hotel in Stockholm. There were
3 of us so we split the cost. The driver had a broken credit card
machine so he asked for US dollars, we gave him $80 US.

To be honest, that sounds like you were scammed.

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Hi - we will be doing this tour on August 14. The one question we have about the tour is the overnight ferry from Denmark to Oslo. Are cabins provided? The itinerary doesn't say anything about it other than we would be sleeping on the boat. Any information about what to expect on the boat will be helpful. If no cabin (bed) what is available for sleeping?

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2510 posts

Sam,
Yes, cabins are provided on the ferry, if you are traveling on the tour as a couple or a single, your cabin will accommodate you accordingly. Mind you, they are small but contain a full bathroom en suite. For one night, it’s perfectly adequate. No window view but as I said, it’s only one night.
Our guide held a happy hour for us and that was a lot of fun. There are several restaurants on board and a night club.
Who is your guide? Mine was Gabriella Ylvasdotter, she’s so enthusiastic and fun, we loved her!
You will have the trip of a lifetime. I’m excited for you.

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627 posts

Just now reading this trip report, thank you Judy for all the great detail. It’s the next tour on my list due to grandparents born in Sweden and Norway.

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2510 posts

Luv2travel and Lisuza,
Thanks for your feedback.

Luv2Travel,
My grandmother was from Sweden one of the reasons I wanted to visit. If you do go, you will love it!

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I want to add a note for Monday Night Travel attendees: Gabriella Ylvasdotter will be the guest on the September 26 zoom meeting. She was the guide for my tour and I’m excited to see her talk about her native city, Stockholm! You likely know Rick and his MNT team is taking a hiatus for the month of August. I hope you will tune in and learn about the delights of Stockholm.

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5364 posts

Judy B, thank you for sharing your trip!

My only trip to Sweden was a business trip so long ago and so brief it barely counts - though I do have a few memories and souvenir reminders. I'd love to see that open air museum and the "other-worldly 12th Century Stave church" you mentioned. It sounds like the tour was fabulous and definitely the way I'd want to visit next time, so thanks for the encouragement!

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2510 posts

CWSocial,
I am glad you are considering visiting Scandinavia because it is unique in its culture and rich history. You will be well rewarded especially going on a guided tour as it is daunting logistically. Ærø Island is magical and the Jotenheimen Mountains where we stayed in the sod roofed cabins dotted along the side of the mountains blew my mind. I was trying to explain it the other day to a friend. When I visit England, France, Germany, Italy, I am so much more familiar with their cultures and histories because this is what I studied in high school and college. If you mention the date 1215 in regards to English history, we know it is the significant date of the Magna Carta. I knew hardly anything about Scandinavian history! It’s a revelation to spend time there.

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1601 posts

Thanks for your report Judy!
This was my first RS tour and I loved it!
Gabby's father's name is Håkan, pronounced Ho kahn.
He was our Stockholm city guide. We met Ylva briefly as she spoke to us from the apartment window.

I loved the Scandinavian hotels: no carpeting, sleek styling, white sheets/duvets.

At the time I thought I was part Nordic, but my DNA report has been updated and now I am Scottish and Welsh. I am glad for the previous misinformation though, because I loved loved this tour, the culture and the locations.

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2510 posts

Vandrabrud,
I remember I read your trip report of the Scandinavia tour way back when! I think you also did a tour scrapbook. This is one of my very favorite trips.

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25 posts

Thank you for this report. So happy to read it. I’m on this tour at end of august.
When you where in Flam, did the boat tour include the Naeroyfjord? I’m staying for 2 days more in Bergen after and was wondering if I should do “ Norway in a nutshell “ on my own Bergen to Bergen or would that duplicate most of what is in the tour already?

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2510 posts

Rachel,
I had to look at my photos in my iPhone to see the location and you are spot on, it is the Nærøyfjord! This is the fjord our ferry toured from Flåm, spectacular views! If you have a camera or a phone, you will have wonderful photo opportunities.

This is a special tour which will give you amazing memories. Enjoy!

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25 posts

Thanks Judy. If it’s really beautiful I’ll go back there through NIM, even if it’s already included.
I was planning on going to ABBA museum but I’ll do skansen instead late in the day. Thanks to all your tips.

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11569 posts

If you go to Skansen, please report back. Our hotel was next to it and we were discouraged by other visitors from going there.