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Scandinavia 23 days

We traveled for 23 full days on the ground in July in Nordic Europe excluding flying days. This report is broken into multiple sections because of length. In Copenhagen, Stockholm, Uppsala, Oslo and Bergen we mostly visited locations that are well discussed in the RS guidebook, so I don’t dwell on them unless we have something unique to say. I’ve concentrated on observations, experiences and data that I’ve not seen discussed much in this Forum. I also note experiences with topics that are perennial favorites on this Forum, e.g. US chip & sign credit cards. This report expands on or corrects previous posts I’ve made. Opinions expressed are mine or the person mentioned. References to RS guidance are taken either from the 2015 edition of RS’ Scandinavia guidebook or from the RS website. I thank Forum posters Morten, Anita and others who provided valuable pre-trip inputs.

Since we were on the East coast visiting family, we flew Dulles to Copenhagen via Keflavik on Iceland Air. We were unable to use our usual TSA Precheck because Iceland Air does not participate in the program. The first leg of the flight was on a twin-aisle 767 that was a surprise since I had read that Iceland Air flew 757s only. We did have a less roomy but adequate 757 from KEF to CPH.

Our experience at KEF was unexpected because I had not seen discussion in this Forum about KEF facilities. Looking back now, I see that I missed the single posting from Paul on 11/20/2015 about what may be important for some. That is: many aircraft at KEF do not use passenger boarding bridges (e.g. Jetway®) that provide a direct, single level access between the aircraft and terminal. I realize that this can take place at any airport and may be frequent at large, crowded airports. My use of the word “many” is based on my 2 observations: 1) there were many more aircraft sitting on the tarmac with boarding stairs next to them than there were aircraft pulled into gates on the days we landed there, and 2) none of the 9 or 10 gates I observed from inside the terminal had boarding bridges. So, on most arriving flights, ambulatory passengers walk down stairs to the tarmac and board a bus to the terminal. Upon entering the terminal, travelers needing a restroom note that those are in the basement level down a flight of stairs. My wife says that the TP in the KEF restroom was the “thickest and plushest” TP she has ever seen in a public place. She was also impressed by the futuristic looking Dyson combination water faucet and hand dryer at the sinks.

Travelers ready to move forward go up a flight of stairs for passport inspection. After clearing passport control and moving to their gate for connecting flights, passengers find themselves in a hallway with multiple gate numbers listed on locked glass doors at the end of the hall. It seems there are typically 4 or 5 gates in these hallways. Since the gate doors are locked, passengers line up in the hallway as best they can. If there are 4 flights departing from 4 adjacent gates in a hallway, it is likely to have several hundred standing people packed into these halls. There may be a couple of dozen chairs, but not nearly enough for all travelers awaiting flights. I noted that there was more space and more chairs behind the locked gate doors. These chairs were being used by airport staff for coffee breaks and smartphone study while passengers stood. Around loading time, staff would open door to the gate area. Gate agents provide no order, organization or direction so passengers simply crowd in to await boarding pass check. Then passengers descend stairs to the tarmac level, pack into a bus to the airplane and then stampede out of the bus across the tarmac to another set of stairs ascending to the aircraft. I heard one woman describe the queuing and boarding process as “like Southwest Airlines, but with absolutely no organization.” To Be Continued..

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Above in Part 1, I was writing about the less than desirable process to change planes at Keflavik. Passengers in wheelchairs do get the assistance they need, but they may not be first in line. I counted going up & down stairs 6 times to get from the arriving plane to the connecting plane, including 2 for a basement restroom visit. If a person is following the RS suggestion to use only carry-on bags this could be an annoying exercise with all the stairs to negotiate and jostling to endure, especially in inclement weather.

Up next, Copenhagen and comments.

Posted by
11294 posts

Sorry your trip didn't get off to the best start - hope the rest got better!

Please post the rest of your report in this thread (as you've already done, just reply to yourself to continue it). Otherwise, the different threads get separated, and no one can find them later.

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Part 2: Copenhagen & comments

We arrived at Copenhagen around noon and there was absolutely no checking of passports, security or anything. I later noted that Iceland is part of the Schengen Agreement so presumably the passport check in Iceland was sufficient.

I knew that our best bet to get downtown was to use the regular train. As we entered the main part of the terminal, we saw the red ticketing kiosks of the train system. I pulled out one of my USAA chip & sign Visa cards (for which we have PINs) and started the process of buying tickets. Something went wrong and I tried again. The second try failed and an attendant came over to help. She tried 3 times (with me entering the PIN privately) and finally declared the card was being rejected. I tried my backup card and it worked the first time. I’m unsure of what went wrong with the first card, but I think that perhaps I messed up the PIN. We easily found the train tracks downstairs. Arriving downtown, we walked from the main train terminal to our hotel that was just a few blocks past Tivoli Gardens and the City Hall.

We followed RS’ jet lag advice by staying up as late as we could. We had lunch at a nearby cafe and then decided to take the harbor tour RS suggests. It was a lovely day and we enjoyed the boat ride around the harbor. We extended it by doing a HOHO at the Little Mermaid statue and hanging out in that park for 30 minutes extra. After that we had another light meal at about 6 pm and then collapsed at the hotel around 7 after being awake for more than 30 hours.

On day 3, I needed some cold remedies so I searched for a pharmacy (Apotek in Danish). When I came across one, I found that Danish pharmacies, or at least the one I was in, are very limited in size compared to those typical in the US or even other European countries. The Apotek seemed to carry only prescription drugs and some limited high-end health care products such as contact lens solutions, fancy skin care products etc. It certainly didn’t have any cough drops or mouthwash.

The latest RS advice on phone SIM cards that I’ve seen is to go to a cell network provider store and get a SIM card, expecting that with the new EU roaming rules the card will work pretty much everywhere. In Copenhagen, we stopped touring long enough to give this a try for an iPhone. We went into both a Telia and a Telenor store. We got the same response in both. They could not help us since we were not Danish citizens. They recommended going to a 7-11 and getting a reloadable SIM card. We went down the block to a 7-11 and yes the clerks said they could sell us a SIM card. I believe the price was either 40 or 50 DKK including 10 DKK worth of cell time. They said we could add more time at any 7-11. They were unclear about the EU roaming situation and were very unsure that we could find another store in Sweden or Norway to load more time on the Danish SIM card. That being the case, I decided not to buy the SIM card and we managed the entire trip by using WiFi and printed information only.

After 5 days we departed to Stockholm by train. Despite the warning I had seen in this Forum from last year, and the same warning on the helpful website Man in Seat 61, there was NO passport inspection at the Copenhagen main train station for Sweden. In fact nobody on the entire trip except at KEF and in the US ever asked for our passports. So we hopped onboard the SJ200 high speed train and sped away.

To be continued...

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Part 2 Copenhagen continued..

For those following the discussion in this Forum whether to use planes or trains between European cities, I offer this. When I was thinking about how to travel between cities, I considered the alternatives and decided on trains because I got very reasonable prices ($53/each Copenhagen-Stockholm, $22/each Stockholm-Oslo, bought about 2 months prior on the SJ website following the advice from website The Man in Seat 61), I dislike the security hassles at airports, my spouse really dislikes needing to be at the airport early, and we both prefer the ability to walk around on trains over planes. I also reasoned that a “down” day between cities would be helpful in relaxing since we tend to pack a whole lot into each day when touring, and a train gives us more opportunity to catch up on e-mails, etc. One viewpoint I hadn’t considered was health related. When I catch a cold I tend to get very congested and my ears are an issue with the altitude changes in air travel. Having opted for trains, I was able to avoid ear pains twice in a 5 day period. Of course I didn’t foretell that this would occur, but my earlier decision worked in my favor in an unanticipated way.

Up next: Part 3 Sweden and comments

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Part 3:

In Stockholm, we again followed RS’ advice by doing a harbor tour. We elected to do the longest one (2 hours 15 min) called Under the Bridges of Stockholm to get the most value out of our purchase of the Stockholm Card. I don’t recommend it. Because of the way the harbor is laid out with locks dividing fresh and salt water, this tour is essentially an in-and-out ride over the same path coming and going. So it is twice as long as it needs to be. Pick a shorter one. Or both shorter ones to see both sides of the locks.

In Stockholm we saw an interesting minor historical site that RS does not cover. About 10 or 12 blocks north of the train station, there is a large rounded hill covered in trees. At the top of the hill is an old building with an odd looking dome. In the 1700s Sweden had its own prime meridian of Longitude (as did other countries, e.g. France.) The building is called the Stockholm Observatory and was established to set a prime meridian for Swedish navigation. Apparently there is a museum inside which may be of interest to history or geography buffs. BTW the park has a very good, free view of Stockholm, especially to the east.

Food cost is a Forum topic of great interest for Scandinavia. For dinner out in the 3 countries we spent in the range $22 - $73, with most of our dinners between $40 and $55. That’s about what we usually pay at home by the time tax & tip is added. Most evenings in Stockholm we had trouble finding a non-touristy place for dinner. Several of the places RS recommends were closed for construction or for summer vacation. One night we were wandering streets well away from tourist areas and we happened upon an unexpected choice: Paladar de Cuba at Tegnergatan 19. The food was good and very elegantly presented. Prices were in line with other typical Stockholm eateries, we spent about $55 for a meal. One other food note, we followed RS’ advice and had lunch one day at Kajsas Fisk, inside and downstairs at Hotorgshallen market. The recommended fish soup was around $13.50 each, but the bowls were quite large and really jam packed with fish. Delicious and a good value for Stockholm.

My spouse is very interested in church buildings and church art so in Sweden we continued to pop into all available churches as we had in Denmark. RS makes much of art in churches, which is not surprising since that’s where a lot of it is in Europe. After reading the history lessons in RS guidebooks and RS’ Europe 101 for History & Art, I had expected that much interior artwork in Nordic churches was purged during the Reformation, as it was in the British Isles. I was wrong. Many of the really old churches and cathedrals we visited in all 3 countries were actually quite full of interior art. Certainly, newer churches tended to have simple, more austere interiors. But old churches kept much if not all of the Roman Catholic art and decorative items that I thought were frowned on by reformers. In Uppsala, we visited a friend who teaches at an institute affiliated with the Swedish national Lutheran church. I asked her about the art & artifacts and she replied that the Scandinavians did keep most of the art, objects and liturgy from before the Reformation. She mentioned that when she attends the Lutheran cathedral in Uppsala she can barely discern it from a Catholic service, the only difference being “they don’t use incense”. Visiting churches to see art was almost as good in Scandinavia as in Italy since we saw numerous pieces of art or artifacts in all 3 countries that were 500-1000 years old.

to be continued...

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Part 3 Sweden continued..

We went to Uppsala from Stockholm by train. At the main train station, I started looking for ticket kiosks. But my spouse quickly latched on to the human powered Information booth and before I could have a kiosk CC problem again she had bought our train tickets for Uppsala. I believe that she did pay a 5% or 10% premium over the kiosk price for getting human help, but she deemed it worthwhile. In Uppsala we saw the University, some rune stones, the Museum, the gardens & house of Carl Linnaeus, and the ancient mounds just outside of the city all of which I believe RS recommends. We also indulged in the typical Swedish fika.

After 5 days in Sweden we had another high speed train ride to Oslo. The trip did take around an hour longer than I thought it should, due to the high number of stops along the way. Perhaps there was an express I should have looked for.

Up next, Part 4 Norway & comments

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Part 4 Norway and comments

There is much commentary on this Forum about the expense of Scandinavia, with Norway and alcohol in particular. I decided to pay some attention to this matter in Oslo and collect some examples. The booklet “What's On” available at the Oslo TI recommended 4 cheap beer bars. We tried one called Stargate in the Gronland district next to the Akers river, several blocks north of the train station. Their cheapest beer on tap was a local brand Ringnes, a light bland pilsner much like big corporate US lagers such Bud, Miller, etc., priced at 47 NOK (about $6) for 1/2 liter - almost in line with US prices at bars. We tried a Frydenlund Bayer as their dark beer. Similar to a US amber ale in color but with less body and taste, it was 72 NOK or about $9, definitely on the pricey side compared to home. In other Oslo restaurants and bars we saw beers ranging in price from 78 NOK to 110 NOK or about $10 to $14 - about twice as expensive as at home. We purchased one 500 ml can of hard cider in a food store for 42.90 NOK and also saw beers around the same price, again much more expensive than buying in a store at home. We found that Norway has strict time of day limits on buying beer in stores, I believe it was prohibited after 8 pm. We also noted that unlike beer & hard cider, wine is not available in food stores. Wine must be purchased in separate liquor stores. We did not look very hard, but never did see one of those.

I had noted while trip planning that in Norway the age for a Senior discount is 67. Since we’re not quite there yet, we were resigned to paying full price or using Oslo Cards (which we did). However I noticed that the Oslo Viking ship museum had a Senior rate for those over 60, not 67 as elsewhere. One other note about the Ship Museum. Unlike some other tourist attractions (e.g. the National Gallery in Oslo) entry to ticketing was not controlled or metered. This means that multiple tour bus groups can crowd in at once, which happened while we were there. I did a quick head count and estimated more than 300 people in building which was very crowded. So, go early or go late as RS says to avoid to the cruise ship crowds.

In Oslo, we decided to take the tour of Parliament. We went by about an hour before the tour time and saw that there was no one in line. We also saw a sign announcing that only 30 people get in. We went for a walk and were back at about 30 minutes before tour time. While we were gone, 29 people got in line. Long story short, my spouse got in but I did not, despite the guard assuring me that they would take me also. Lesson: arrive more than 30 minutes early and don't waste your time waiting if there are 30 ahead of you, even if the guard says otherwise.

We were not sure what the weather would be like and came prepared for cool & rainy. Almost every day was partly or mostly sunny in the high 60s to mid 70s and we had rain only 3 times. I had a fleece zip up, a very light puffy jacket, a knit hat, light knit gloves, a waterproof shell, 3 short sleeve shirts, 3 long sleeve shirts and 3 pairs of polyester travel slacks. I never needed the puffy jacket, hat or gloves. I used the fleece perhaps 5 or 6 times. I used the rainshell three times and was glad to have it. We considered doing some light hiking in the mountains so I brought 1 pair of street shoes and 1 pair of heavy shoes with thick soles (almost boots). My wife brought 2 pairs of sandals and one pair of light street shoes. My heavy shoes were overkill except for the one time we did go on a 2 hour hike in a mountain meadow. There were some squishy areas where I did better than my spouse whose street shoes got quite muddy.

To be continued...

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Part 4 continued

Our experience with using US chip & sign CCs was just as described by others who have posted recently. Danish automated kiosks wanted a PIN, while people e.g. waiters and clerks wanted a signature. Same for Norway and Sweden, except that in Sweden they also wanted to see picture ID to match the name on the CC. In Norway most car fueling stations are automated so a PIN is needed for the CC. We also found that many of these stations did not offer paper receipts. Despite being right in front of a mini-mart type place there was often NOBODY on site that could hand out paper receipts, so we did not get receipts in several stations. I was later told that one could reinsert the CC after the transaction to ask for a receipt but I can’t verify that it works. Scandinavians seem much more relaxed about paper receipts that Americans. We used CCs for every purchase no matter how small, and did not bother with getting any local currencies from ATMs. Two slight exceptions in Denmark. First, my spouse wanted to buy one plum from a small corner store. They wouldn't take a CC for such a small purchase. Second, one museum in Copenhagen, I think it was the Rosenborg Palace, required a locker for my backpack. The locker required a 20 DKK coin. We had zero currency, so the clerk just added 20 DKK to our entrance fee and gave us the coin. The locker returned the coin when I opened it later so we came home with the 20 DKK coin, our only handling of any Nordic currency. One museum in Copenhagen and Drottningholm Palace in Stockholm ran the transactions on my spouse’s CC with DCC without asking. She did not notice until I pointed it out later. Two restaurants in Copenhagen tacked on a fee for CC use. One was just over 1% listed as "credit card fee charged by credit card company" which the waiter explained as a "tax on foreign credit cards". The other was 2.95% with no explanation. No other places did such things.

We had a rental car in Norway for 9 full days and a fraction. Total mileage we put on the car was about 1300 km and total fuel used was 99L. That works out to about 30 mpg for the Citroen 5-speed manual. Fuel prices we paid ranged from 13.8 NOK/L ($6.79/gal) to 16.1 NOK/L ($7.93/gal). We drove the car from Oslo airport to Bergen for our 2 days there. I would avoid taking a car to Bergen again. As RS points out, it is not really needed and it is a huge hassle to park. We paid 180 NOK to park on the street 3 blocks from our hotel for the 3 nights we were there. After Bergen we drove on 7 of the 18 National Tourist Routes to see rural Norway. Do a search on “Norway National Tourist Routes” for more detail about these roads. We drove them in this order: Hardanger, Hardangervidda, Aurlandsfjellet, Gaularfjellet, Sognefjellet, Gamle Strynefjellsvegen, and Geiranger-Trollstigen.

To be continued...

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Part 4 continued

Just above I was enumerating the NTRs we drove on. I recommend these roads for anyone who likes scenery. We needed to use other roads in between to string the 7 NTRs together. In general the NTRs we were on tended to be older, narrower, slower and more scenic than other roads. However the route along E39 and 5 between Forde and Sogndal was just as beautiful as some of the NTRs IMO. Perhaps it did not qualify as a NTR due to lack of switchbacks. Several NTRs were not for the faint of heart. Although we have spent much time driving in the big mountains of the US, I am impressed at how Norwegians have learned to build roads up very steep cliffs by using switchbacks. IMO the most white-knuckle NTR was Aurlandsfjellet ( what RS calls the “Snow Road”). The climb up out of Aurland is on a roadway that is old and thus narrow. There’s nothing quite like trying to squeeze past a tour bus going the other way on a road no wider than a typical American 2 car driveway when you are on the outside edge of the road with a 1000 foot cliff about 18 inches beyond your passenger seat. The Gamle Strynefjellsvegen NTR is also very old and in fact is still a dirt road for much of the distance. Fortunately, that part is fairly flat. Paving appears when the road gets steep. I was impressed with the grandeur of the cliffs in the canyon-like portion on the west end near Videsaeter. We ended our NTR track with the Geiranger-Trollstigen NTR which is also impressive, but not quite as hair raising. If you drive the Geiranger-Trollstigen road south of Geiranger be sure to pay the extra toll (130 NOK) to take the side road up even higher to Mount Dalsnibba viewpoint. It has the most incredible view down into Geiranger and of all the peaks surrounding the Geiranger fjord. That road is fairly new and modern but it stands out in my mind along with Aurlandsfjellet for really tight and steep switchbacks. Get there early to avoid the numerous tour buses bringing cruise ship tourists up from Geiranger.

Having spent several hours wandering around Geiranger, I can't recommend spending much time there. It is a very small town shoehorned in between the water and the mountains that is overwhelmed with tourists and folks from the cruise ships. Recommended Movie: if you want to know something interesting about Geiranger get the Norwegian movie “The Wave” (Norwegian: “Bolgen”), or just look up Åkerneset in Wikipedia. In addition to Mount Dalsnibba there are many amazing sights in the Geiranger vicinity. Some Forum posters had recommended to me the ferry over to Hellesylt and back. They were correct. The ride is very beautiful with incredible cliffs and waterfalls. That portion of the Geiranger fjord is a UNESCO World Heritage site and deserves the designation IMO. Hellesylt is quieter, more pleasant and more photogenic than Geiranger IMO. Taking a car to Hellesylt is rather expensive so we avoided that. Be aware that parking in Geiranger while free is extremely competitive, at least it was the last week of July. After ending the Geiranger-Trollstigen NTR we cruised into Andalsnes on a pleasingly wide road. The next day we headed south on E136/E6 through Gudbrandsdal valley visiting Ringebu, Lillehammer, and Hamar on the way toward Oslo to catch our flight home. After driving the 7 NTRs, we felt that we had seen a good chunk of mountain and fjord Norway, a very nice complement to the cities.
To be continued...

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Part 4 continued

I do NOT recommend the Michelin Norway map for 3 reasons. First, the map does not provide enough “zoomed-in” detail for driving around rural Norway. The reverse side shows Sweden & Finland. If you need those countries buy them separately. The reverse side could have been better used for providing more Norwegian detail. We often passed roads and towns that were not on the map. Fortunately I had brought along supplementary maps that provided a more detailed view of the roads we followed. Secondly, the little dots & lines used on the map to mark distances were difficult to decipher. Lastly, we both found the keying and symbology to be quite odd, inconsistently applied, and difficult to decipher. Toll roads were not always marked on the map as such. Many of the stave churches that we saw were not marked on the map.

Tolls on Norwegian roads are frequent, to enter a town, to enter a tunnel, or just anywhere. About 10 days after getting home I saw an extra charge for about $100 from Avis show up on my Visa card. The issuing bank could not give me a breakdown of the charge. Nor could the US Avis Customer Service center, even though they claimed to be able to help me with international rentals. (Avis: “We don’t have a listing of what makes up that extra charge because it’s outside the rental agreement.” Me: “So you can’t help me find out what the extra charges were?” Avis: ”I didn’t say that sir. You just need to call the Toll Authority in the foreign country and they can tell you.” Me: “OK, thanks for your help.”) We had tried to keep track of tolls and our tally came out to about 400 NOK or $52. I don’t know if there were other tolls we didn’t notice.

We observed speed cameras in use mostly on main roads around Bergen, the Oslo metro area and the main arterial from Andalsnes south to Oslo. Blue signs displaying a white camera icon and stylized waves announce the presence of speed cameras. Sometimes I saw the signs, but didn’t see a camera installation. Speed cameras are tall, narrow, gray metal boxes mounted on tall poles. The boxes have 2 windows, 1 above the other. I assume one is the radar and one is the camera. I noticed that some of the boxes blinked white when I passed them, some blinked red and some didn’t blink at all. I was concerned by this and tried some experimenting (to the annoyance of cars behind me) where I slowed way down, far below what I thought the speed limit was. I still got blinking from some cameras, but not others. In some cases the speed limit was posted right before the speed camera sign, but not so in other cases. So I was sometimes guessing what the allowed speed was and I might have exceeded some of them. One other interesting note about speed limits. Our Citroen rental car had a display on the dash that read “MAX SPEED: ” followed by a number that seemed to change with the posted speed limits. I watched this closely and found that around 95% of the time the display was in agreement with the posted speed. I’m not sure how the car was able to discern the posted speed limit, but I came to rely on it for going through speed cameras.

There are 4 really notable features about rural Norwegian roads: steep mountain switchbacks, beautiful vistas, tunnels and Tesla cars. I’ve never seen so many tunnels. I would estimate that we drove through at least 50 tunnels. Some were modest but many were quite long. Tunnels of 4 or 5 km were common, I think our longest was 9 km. I was most impressed by the 2 tunnels that had complete traffic circles inside them. Though I’m not a car enthusiast, the large number of Tesla cars I saw in Norway surprised me. After looking up info online, I see that Norway has been number 2 or 3 in the world for purchase of Tesla cars. With such a small population, on a per capita basis, Norway is far and away the largest purchaser in the world. Go online to get details.

To be continued...

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Part 4 continued
Norwegian road signs can be a bit perplexing. Take the speed camera sign. Viewing it online before the trip, it was listed as “Automatic traffic control” which failed to alert me to what it really was. Sometimes Google Translate helped and sometimes not. “Gardstun” came across as ”farm yard” which made perfect sense. The sign “bom” translated as “barrier”, but we saw nothing we would call a barrier and we decided it must really mean what we’d call a “rough road”. Consulting Trip Adviser later I found this explanation: “Bomveg or Bomvei means a road closed with a metal bar, often a toll road or a place where you need a key to unlock and open the bar.” The “bom” and “bomveg” signs we saw did not announce any metal gate and did not seem to always coincide with a toll road. I recommend that ALL Norwegian traffic signage you can find online be download and printed for reference.

Near the Olso airport, roads are very good and I observed speed limits of 90, 100 and even 110 kph. Further away from Oslo, speeds of 70 and 80 kph were the norm on the best roads in rural areas. It was not unusual to have a speed limit of 60 kph (36 mph) or less when going through a village or a Gardstun group of farmhouses. On many rural roads it is difficult to exceed 60 or 70 kph as roads are quite narrow and twisty. I think many rural Norwegian roads are similar to the most difficult roads I ever saw in western Ireland: very narrow and very winding. I’ve already mentioned the switchbacks that tend to slow a driver down. Of course the one advantage of Norwegian roads is that at least they drive on the right side. The limitations of rural roads meant that we typically did not cover most rural distances quite as fast as I had planned and driving times stretched out our days.

As we drove south toward Lillehammer on the freeway-like E6 in Gudbrandsdal valley, my wife questioned why we didn’t take the possibly more scenic Peer Gyntveien road up on the hillside instead of simply zooming through the valley below. I pointed out the RS Guidebook recommendation that the Peer Gyntveien is an uninteresting, dirt toll road. She was not totally onboard with this call, pointing out that the main road in the valley we were using was fairly bland and very full of toll sections. On the other hand, if we had done that, we would have missed the town of Ringebu where we saw probably the best stave church of the 6 or 7 we saw on our trip. BTW, it was one of the stave churches not marked on the Michelin map and is not mentioned in the RS guidebook.

It took about an hour to get from our last hotel in Hamar to the airport. Road sign directions to the airport were clear and there was a well marked but expensive fuel station very near the air terminal, so we didn’t need to go searching for one to top off the tank. The road south of Hamar was so fast that we ended up getting there about 3 hours before flight time.

Out of norm for Ricknicks, we checked our rolling carry-on bags for the flight home, avoiding the need to lug them up & down the multiple stairways at KEF. While again waiting in KEF, I heard multiple English speakers, including one Icelandic native, express the opinion that Iceland has attracted many more visitors than their infrastructure in the airport and the island beyond can really handle well. That is my opinion of KEF. Of course I was likely there at the peak travel time. Maybe it’s not so bad in the shoulder season.

One last comment: RS advises that we tear up his guidebooks, carrying only the needed pages. We did this by each country and the pages got really dog-earred and chewed up. I think next time I will tear out the pages we DON’T want and leave the useful pages inside the covers where they are better protected.

I hope some of this may be of help to others.

The End

Posted by
11294 posts

Great report - thanks for posting. I'm especially interested in the details about credit card acceptance and fees.

I think plenty of Rick's followers check a bag, particularly on the way home. The ones who don't ever ever ever check a bag can be so vocal about it, that they intimidate those who do from talking about it. Particularly given your experience at Keflavik airport, it makes sense for you to have checked your bags to get home more easily. The whole point of traveling a certain way is to make things easier overall - not to follow "rules" for their own sake, whether they make sense in a particular situation or not.

Posted by
48 posts

Thanks so much for writing out your trip report. Great details and observations!