Please sign in to post.

Sarajevo/Mostar (Bosnia) - Croatia - Budapest

Day 1 Sarajevo The original plan was to start in Dubrovnik, but I started reading about the region. The novel "People of the Book" really made me curious about Sarajevo. I did not get to see the Sarajevo Haggadah, which is stored at the national museum and only shown to public twice/week. Nonetheless I was so glad I got to see this city. I changed around flight to land in Sarajevo. Used transportation from Booking-com site, since I heard public transport from airport not great and people with mixed results from taxis. Well the booking transportation worked well, but there were delays because they had two of us in van (which wasn't apparent on booking). Hotel wise I stayed in Hotel Old Town, which was recommended by the esteemed Mr. E and also had good ratings on Booking. I was happy with stay there. One sad thing, there was a little grassy park outside hotel. When I came back in evening there was a dog lying down, who didn't look great. I tried to feed him my burek but he didn't have interest. I was told by hotel front desk worker that Sarajevo doesn't have municipal services for animals. I posted dog on Facebook (and may have tried to take part of the continental breakfast to him), but he was gone in the morning. Guide-wise I emailed the person recommended in Rick Steves book. That person wasn't available, but recommended me someone else (who translated at The Hague I think). That person was going to give tour but something came up, so I ended up with selection from Get Your Guide. Tour was called "Sarajevo Old Town: Bosnian Ethnic Food & Coffee Walking Tour." The guide was excellent, company was OceanAir Travels. I went to the National Museum and the Jewish Museum on my own, and back to the central mosque in Old Town. I really enjoyed the mosque and all the excellent free water there. Also the bus/tram drivers (in my small sample, 2 out of 2) were the nicest of anywhere I've been.

Day 2 Sarajevo--> Mostar-->Dubrovnik I used daytrip for transfer. This was the most expensive part of my trip. I would have taken train/bus, but time was very limited. To the day trip driver's credit, he found me right away (the hotel is on pedestrian only street) sitting in front of an empty juice joint. It was beautiful to see the scenery go by. Mostar was beautiful but Old Bridge area crowded. It was a little disappointing next to Sarajevo. After only 1.5 hours in Mostar (probably I missed all the cool off the beaten path things) on to Dubrovnik. More beautiful countryside and then the coast.

Posted by
102 posts

Days 3 & 4 Dubrovnik I stayed at Booking apartment residence. Somewhat unremarkable. I picked it because it was within old city walls but flat part of town. All I can say is Dubrovnik gets crowded, even in shoulder season. It's a beautiful photogenic city. Honestly I didn't find "Walking the Walls" that easy - but I guess I should be in better shape. I liked the open market in town, and I enjoyed how the the city looks at night and sunset. The next day, I went to the Red History Museum by the port -- which I liked but probably not a must see unless you like topic.

Day 5 Korcula Island Sigh - short but sweet. My only regret here is that it was just one night. It was an apartment - named 'Old Town-Ocean View Apartment.' Just beautiful. I was even tempted to try to go into the water but instead I walked down and sat by bench. Also went a quick tour via Get Your Guide - I was the only one. The Boka Wine Bar delivered as expected. Most fun of all was just walking around at night in the old town alleys. TP Ferry there/back was easy, boarding was orderly. I found the times on getbyferry but bought directly from ferry company.

Posted by
4584 posts

Was the Red History Museum near the port of Gruž, about a 30minute walk from the old town. I only ask because we visited that museum in 2022 and we were told they were closing. I wonder if they are still open or just moved locations.

Posted by
102 posts

Hi - I looked up the port name and google maps - yes the museum is by Port of Gruz. I only knew it as Port Where My Ferry Was. The museum was definitely open, I'm happy to report. Also I had luggage and my first try at the bus didn't go well, so I admit I took a Bolt. [Also I have a few more places/days to enter here lol]

Posted by
102 posts

Day 6 2 hours of Split --> Zadar Welp, so my calculations weren't perfect and I ended up with only 2 hours in Split between ferry from Korcula and bus to Zadar. Initially I was hoping to spend a night - or at least several hours - but unfortunately I don't have the luxury of slow travel. Well, I spent about half my time in Split fighting with google maps, that did not want to take me to the Synagogue in Old Town. One or two very kind shop workers helped me find it. It was actually under construction/renovation, but I rang the bell and they were nice enough to let me in. I felt very bad that I didn't have more cash for donation.

This brings to the second thing about tourist-centric Split. Cash/Euros are good. They are not wanting to deal with credit cards at many places I found. Which is anxiety provoking if you don't have much cash. Anyway the Flix bus station is an easy walk from Old Town, and I finally settled down with a macchiato with a very kind woman from Bosnia. There were no tables left at cafe by bus station - she saw me with my luggage and forlorn look - and invited me to sit down. (She even offered me a cigarette, which in retrospect I almost wish I took, even though I don't smoke.)

To Zadar was quick/easy ride. My luggage made it. (I tend to worry when it goes "down under" on those busses). I cheated again and took a Bolt into town from the bus station.

The Zadar sunset did not disappoint. It was such a lovely communal experience being on the Sun Steps. There's a lighted installation too, but I didn't realize it only works till completely dark. Zadar was a lovely town, with important ruins right in the middle of town. I stayed in a Booking lodging in Old Town which was a great location for city. Honestly I hope to come back to Zadar one day. I took a tour with an amazing kind woman (Art sea booking and marketing - "Zadar: Guided Walking Tour."). There was a bit of snag with Google Maps -- that was directing me to walk into/through the city walls. As a result I showed up somewhat winded, and with all my luggage to tour. The guide walked me right away to a place that watched my luggage for free. Really <3 Zadar. At the bus station there was a stray dog -- older but in decent health -- still very sad. The teenager next to me was feeding the dog her pastry. I contributed some of the cat food I was traveling with.

Posted by
102 posts

Day 7 Plitvice Very doable on your own, by bus, in my opinion. I wanted to be there when crowds were less (late afternoon and 7pm opening) so I stayed in a lodging near Entrance 1. There are a few cute little Bed and Breakfast's there.

When I went the first afternoon I was worried that I would be too slow, didn't want to be the last one in the park. In retrospect I wish I had slowed down and seen more. I think the inner boat runs till about 7pm (not 100 percent sure) and whole park I think you could get by staying till at least 6 or 7:30pm. In the morning I got there at 7am and it was glorious! . Also I was worried about getting lost but there are frequent signs with letters, based upon which trail you pick. At one point I wasn't too sure of direction, but there was a kindly park staff who helped.

Also I'm happy to report it's fine catching the Flixbus on the street opposite the park; the bus stop has a cover and seats, and a cute log cabin motif. I fretted and waited at Entrance 2 for Zagreb, because I read somewhere there's more of a chance of finding a better seat, since it comes before Entrance 1, on the way to Zagreb. YMMV. It would have been fine to have used Entrance 1 Bus Stop actually.

Posted by
4584 posts

Glad to hear the museum is still open. What was interesting for us is that practically every item in the museum my husband owned or recognized. Heck, we still have some items in our apartment. We joked that we should donate them to the museum.