See the previous stage of our trip here (Madrid)
Although it requires an early departure, there is a high speed train between Madrid and Santiago de Compostela that cuts down the travel time considerably. It was fast and comfortable. Sadly, our luck with perfect weather ran out, and we arrived on a decidedly rainy day. Our Airbnb just south of Old Town was ideal for cozying in. We completed our grocery shopping and did just that, but not before lunch at O Tamboril -- a rice-centric restaurant specializing in paella and similar dishes. It was here we were introduced to the "Senyoret" variant of paella. According to legend, a gentleman (or a Senyoret) wanted paella without getting his fingers dirty with shells, tails, heads, etc. Thus this version of paella was born, in which only fish flesh is cooked in the rice. Still every bit as tasty!
The skies emptied themselves overnight so that our next morning was overcast, but dry. Mass was still underway in the cathedral, so we headed to the Museum of the Pilgrimage. Reviews and pictures don't do the museum justice, as it is an excellent and particularly well-curated space. Visitors are sure to walk away with a much more complete understanding of the pilgrimage route and its history, including how much of a political move the Route was in stopping Muslim domination across the top of Spain. We returned to the cathedral, finding it largely empty and quiet. It is every bit as impressive and fascinating as you've likely read, and I doubt there's much my own words could add. It is simply a place that evokes history, tradition, and reverence in beautiful combinations. Afterwards, we headed to a less prominent gem of the city -- the Cafe Casino. Built in 1866, it is easy to see how this became the favorite haunt of aristocrats and intellectuals. The large space is filled with sumptuous wood carvings and thickly upholstered chairs. Whether enjoying an espresso or a glass of wine, the room is filled with elegant taste and refinement. (FYI, it is part of the European Historic Cafes Association -- a group I did not know existed; but one's whose membership page I have definitely bookmarked for future reference). Our plan had been to continue in the afternoon with a local daytrip; however, the weather was still variable, and the next day promised better, so we opted for a leisurely lunch instead.
A word about our dining strategy in Spain. Because we opt for apartment rentals, we take advantage of full kitchens, buying groceries, and cooking dinners in. A small package of protein, some fresh veg, and an inexpensive bottle of wine can make for terrific two-person dinners, usually for less than Eur 15 total. Thus, we tend to go higher end for lunches, which coincidentally still have a lower price tag than dinners out. There's another benefit in Spain -- more control over dinner times. As much as we love Spain, we'll never get on board with 10:00 p.m. + dinner times. By cooking in, we can meet the Spaniards halfway; maybe 8:30 p.m.! Anyway, for lunch on this day we picked the understated La Tacita (Rua do Horreo 31), which specializes in Galician cuisine. It was a great way to sample regional specialties like broiled scallops in the shell and Caldo Gallego, a kale and white bean stew flavored with ham. We called it a day with that, hoping tomorrow's packed agenda could be well-timed with a day of sunshine.
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