I went on the RS Heart of Scotland tour, Aug. 2-9, 2026.
Flights: Arrived one day early, Aug. 1, on a KLM flight from Amsterdam to Inverness and stayed 3 days post tour in Edinburgh for The Edinburgh Royal Military Tattoo and the Fringe Festival events. We flew Delta Atlanta to Amsterdam on July 31 and Edinburgh to Atlanta Aug. 12. We gambled on our ticket purchase with separate tickets ATL to AMS on Delta, then KLM from AMS to INV. Delta’s projected arrival was 6 am; we arrived 30 minutes early. It took 3 hours to get through passport control, etc., baggage and then security for KLM for our INV flight at 9:45 am. We won our gamble!
However, our friend flew on the next Delta flight out of Atlanta, an hour late because of mechanical problems and landed an hour later in AMS. She didn’t have enough time to catch our flight to Inverness - she lost the gamble. Her ordeal lasted all day in the Amsterdam airport, and she didn’t arrive to Inverness until 11:30 pm. She was exhausted. If I had it to do over again, I would elect to stay a couple nights in Amsterdam then fly to Inverness. Amsterdam has so much to see, I would never get bored.
Overview of tour: This tour is designed for folks who don’t have a lot of vacation time but for me it is a perfect length, 8 days of intensified activities that I felt took me to the heart of Scotland. I like to add a day pre-tour and 3 or so days post tour to do my own thing.
Tour guide and bus driver: Paul is a terrific guide and tells stories with a dry sense of humor and Mark the bus driver kept us safe on the narrow lanes throughout our travels. They worked well together. Many, many times he had to back up or pull aside our huge bus to allow other vehicles to pass. One time there was such a narrow place that Paul got off the bus and walked over to where the other huge truck was to scope out the problem.
Tour members: There were 28 of us with 2 family groups, 8 members of one family from the Atlanta area and another with 4 members. There were 7 solo females traveling. I was with 3 of my friends and a couple of ladies from Calif who were friends since high school and a solo lady from Calif. We pretty much bonded together at group dinners and often sat at a table together. I nicknamed us “The Tartan Cuties” and everyone seemed to like that. Paul liked the fact that we hung out together. In fact, the entire group looked out for each other.
Day 1: Beginning in Inverness, we heard traditional music in the pub voted the best in Scotland, MacGregor’s, and excellent food. They also serve whisky flights. Bruce MacGregor plays in his own band, and we were treated to a fine concert on our first group dinner. We had 28 tour members, and everybody seemed to enjoy themselves immensely. On our first pre-tour day my friends and I ate fish and chips at MacGregor’s so you can tell we loved it. Also, one night we went to hear live music at a place where the group the Highland Nights played. Great traditional music with fiddles, etc. A bagpiper dressed in a traditional kilt performed on the bagpipes strolling all through the pub; there were young teenaged girls dancing in their kilts and tartans, too. A fun evening! Inverness is a great place to start this tour close to Loch Ness and other sights. I loved hearing and seeing the seabirds everywhere!
Day 2: We had a boat cruise on the Loch Ness and stopped at Urquhart Castle occupying a prominent position overlooking the Loch. We spent a couple hours exploring the beautiful ruins and had time for a snack in the café. Then we were off to Cawdor Castle, one of my favorites, still lived in with lovely, manicured gardens. Afternoon tea in the charming garden café was awaiting us. We ended this busy day with a visit to the Culloden Battlefield, a place of defeat for Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Jacobite cause to regain the throne in 1746. This battle was a slaughter and foresaw the end of the Highland Clan system.
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OP
Atlanta
2711 posts
As you can see, this is an intense touring day! But so enjoyable. The temperatures were in the 60’s, cloudy with occasional drizzle. In fact, the entire tour we enjoyed temperatures in the 60’s, blue skies in St. Andrews and Edinburgh. Perfect weather for me!
Day 3: We drove to our next stop in Perthshire, stopping on the way for a whisky distillery tour and tasting in Speyside. Then a visit to a woolen mill, only a few remaining now. We toured several buildings at the distillery to see up close the process of producing whisky. We tasted a couple, maybe a third I can’t remember. A 12 and a 15 year, the 15 year was smoother. There were engraved casks of whisky with designations in honor of workers who were retiring. I thought that was a nice touch. The Weaving process at the woolen mill was amazing! Over a couple hundred years in operation, they were producing fabrics for the top fashion houses like Dior and Burberry. I bought a cashmere tartan scarf I can’t wait to wear this winter. We enjoyed lunch in their café. A fascinating visit. After this, we had to hightail it to the sheep farm where the shepherd is strict about timing, 3 pm. If you are late, too bad! He demonstrated the commands and special whistles for the sheepdogs to herd the sheep. They heard their individual whistle and they obeyed immediately. He explained the dogs are working dogs and only want to work for you. There were 7 puppies bouncing and cavorting around the big dogs. Several were still nursing. We fed the lambs their milk by bottle and petted the puppies! Nothing beats this experience. Our day is not over! Next we arrive at our hotel, the Loch Rannoch Resort Hotel, a huge place with tartan carpeting! I fell in love with it. We had dinner in the library and a special treat after dinner. We were introduced to a grandmother who has played the bagpipes all her adult life, is married with 4 children and 6 grandchildren; all of them play the pipes or drums except for one grandchild holdout who went into art and design. She demonstrated each part of the instrument, explained her kilt and uniform, played some tunes for us. She has met the Queen and received the OBE (I think it is called). We were enchanted!
Day 4: Another action-packed day. A visit to the Crannog Center where young people demonstrate how iron age people lived back then. Super interesting and engaging as they showed us how people cooked food and made cloth. They lived in thatched dwellings. A crannog is built over the water, it is theorized to better catch fish. We then drove to Dunkeld, had lunch and took a walk in a forest and Black Linn Falls. A nice photo opp. Back to our resort hotel home for dinner.
Day 5: A surprise on the bus this morning, we saw a herd of sheep coming toward us on the road headed to their pasture. They were followed by their shepherd in a tractor-sort of vehicle with the sheepdog sitting next to him. We quickly took videos and photos. Sad to leave our resort hotel but we pressed on to St. Andrews, the renowned town of golf and the ancient University. We ate lunch, wandered the streets and byways and visited the St. Andrews Castle and went through it with the audio tour describing its history. I especially enjoyed the Wardlaw Museum where I found a scrimshaw on a whale bone tooth inscribed by a seaman on the Charles Darwin’s HMS Beagle in 1831! We crossed the famous Firth of Forth bridge on the way to Edinburgh, our final stop for the rest of the tour. Dinner on our own tonight.
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OP
Atlanta
2711 posts
Day 6: We had a 2-1/2 hour walking tour of Edinburgh with a local guide, Rita. The tour ended at the Castle so we could tour the castle on our own. We also stopped for lunch in the Red Coat Café, a cafeteria with good food and many choices. We were there at 1 pm when the cannon is shot every day, a signal of the time to the ships in the bay instituted back in 1861. A huge crowd of people were gathered around to see this, and I recorded several videos then stopped just as I heard the blast! Oh well, I was there in the moment. I loved the dramatic views!
In our free time this afternoon, we went to the fantastic National Museum of Scotland and the Greyfriars Cemetery to find the statue and grave of Greyfriars Bobby. My friend was in search of Tom Riddle’s grave as it was mentioned in the Harry Potter books. She and I then visited the nearby Greyfriars Bobby Pub which has a cool vibe, good food and drinks. I had a Guinness and 3 locals joined us at our table. One man at our table lives in Edinburgh and the other couple had driven in from Perthshire for Fringe events. So nice to chat with Scottish people, everyone is so relaxed!
We found dinner on our own for the evening, a small place on Grassmarket and ate at outdoor tables.
Day 7: This morning we made our way to elegant Holyroodhouse Palace, the Royal family’s home in Edinburgh, with an Abbey and wonderful gardens. This was a delightful place to tour, I enjoyed it very much. The audio guides gave just enough detail to keep your interest. Beautiful furnishings, paintings, huge dining room set with gorgeous china and crystal. I asked one of the young ladies on staff why there were no place settings at the head of the table. She explained the Queen, now the King, likes to sit in the center to engage with everyone at the dinner. She described to me how the china was hand painted and the draperies made when I admired them. She was very enthusiastic and knowledgeable. I find that people who work for the Royal family in any capacity take great pride in their work and love talking about it.
We walked through the beautiful gardens and woods outside the palace and saw the Abbey ruins. I almost forgot to mention the flowers everywhere in Scotland are full bloom. Also, at the entrance to the Palace the Queen’s Rolls Royce is displayed under a protective tent and you can admire its beauty, insignias with ER on them.
Our guide, Paul, then led us to catch the bus to Port Leith for a tour of the HMY Britannia! This whole day is one of the highlights of the tour. Paul had served in the Royal Navy and was assigned to the Britannia as an electrician for 3 years. He had met the Queen, Prince Charles, Diana and her young boys in the 1990’s (the Britannia was decommissioned in 1997), as well as most of the Royal family. There were many photos of the Queen showing her happy and relaxed. A wonderful exhibition. Then we toured the ship itself. I was struck by the ordinariness of the furniture in the living quarters, decorated in 1950’s style. However, the State dining room was set with 14 places on a gleaming dining table with china, crystal and silver befitting the heads of state that were entertained on board. The kitchen gallies were tiny and I was amazed that delicious food was prepared in them for large groups of people.
One of my friends and I had a Cream Tea in the Tea Room and drank Prosecco, a special commemorative 100-year anniversary tea for the Queen’s centenary of her birth (1926) and ate lovely scones and small tea sandwiches. If we couldn’t meet the Queen, we could dine on her yacht and drink to her long reign. Back to the hotel to put my feet up to prepare for our Farewell dinner tonight. Dinner in a pub, The Parliament Arms. Several tour mates had tickets to the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo afterwards.
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OP
Atlanta
2711 posts
Day 8: Tour Ends at 7 a.m. This day was loose so we had a late breakfast and relaxation time from the busy tour, write postcards, etc. My friend and I had plans for the next 3 days as we were staying for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo and a couple fringe events! We had tickets to an Improv act that I bought online a couple months ago, Mates: 90’s Sitcoms with 3 performers who took words the audience gave them to incorporate in their routine, they then riffed on 3 scenarios for a whole hour. Very entertaining! This act was at 7 pm so the Tartan Cuties had to have dinner earlier and we chose to eat at a wonderful French restaurant on Grassmarket, Petit Paris, where we dined 3 times! We became locals. I recommend buying tickets online before you arrive for the tour. Several friends did walk up to acts going on or starting up soon. I had tickets, one for each day, so we had something to look forward to.
Post tour day 1: Our big day for the Tattoo and Castle dinner experience! First, my friend and I had tickets for a folk singer at a local Jazz Bar at 11:30 am and we found it easily with my phone gps. My friend enjoyed the folk singer more than I did but it was pleasant. Most fringe venues and events are located around the Royal Mile and Grassmarket and around the castle.
We spend an hour trying to rest up for the big evening. We must arrive at the Castle to be in line by 6 pm for the Castle Dinner Experience which is easy for us as our hotel is on the street just below the castle, of course, there are many steps to climb. But we do! There’s an air of anticipation as we wait in line. We are ushered into the Queen Anne’s room where the tables are set for 10 people. We find our places with our names on cards and elaborate table settings for a 3 course meal of Scottish delicacies. We have not had a bad meal in Scotland! Excellent presentation and delicious food, wine, whisky and Prosecco! Soon a handsome bagpiper came in playing a tune and a dignitary made an introduction to us to begin the evening. After the meal, we were escorted to our seats in the Tattoo. We had bought our tickets a few months ago and someone on the RS Forum recommended where to sit for the best viewing experience, thank you! Our seats were very good. We adored the performance and were thrilled by the pageantry. We will always have fond memories of this special evening!
Post tour day 2: Several friends are going home so my traveling friend and I are still in Edinburgh winding down, resting and packing for our flight home tomorrow. I stay in the hotel a good part of the day doing postcards and packing. We eat our final dinner at Petit Paris, our favorite restaurant already mentioned. We had the Plat du jour with steak, etc. red wine and even dessert for our farewell. We ate at an outdoor table and chatted with our neighbors. Everywhere we have gone in Scotland, the people have been lovely, friendly and helpful. There is an overall relaxed vibe here that really appeals to me.
We are home after a smooth, uneventful flight. I’m unpacking my memories and writing this trip report which I hope will help you to appreciate Scotland.
Posted by
London
1647 posts
Thanks for sharing this, glad you had such a wonderful time in lovely Scotland. Petit Paris is one of my favourite restaurants in Edinburgh, too.
Posted by
New England
840 posts
Fun to read your report! The tour sounds very efficient and interesting, and the Tattoo afterward must have been thrilling.
Posted by
Chicagoland
2568 posts
Thanks for sharing your trip report. Sounds like you had a great time. You certainly packed in a lot of wonderful experiences.
Posted by
Sapulpa, OK, USA
6984 posts
What a great time you had, Judy! Thanks for the report; Stan and I may have to think about this tour for sometime in the future.
Posted by
United States
1069 posts
Wonderful trip report Judy! I have a good friend who is going on this tour this fall. I am hopeful she will come back with a similar amount of excitement you shared in your experiences. The sheepdog herding and calf feeding would have been enough for me with everything else just a cherry on top! So glad you had a great time!