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RS Best of Switzerland May/June 2019

My husband and I visited friends in Zurich, Switzerland many times when we lived in Germany in the ‘70’s. We had also been around the country one time since, but I wanted a chance to travel to more areas in the country and also to visit again the Lauterbrunnen Valley, which holds special memories for me. So I signed up for the RS Switzerland trip.

I arrived in cloudy, cool Luzern from Lake Como the day before our trip began. I had to make the mental switch from speaking Italian to speaking German, and found that my brain didn’t really like doing this. Throughout my stay in German Switzerland, I heard myself answering yes/no questions with sì, and thanking folks with grazie rather than danke schön. To my chagrin, the obverse was true when our trip led us to Italian Switzerland, with danke schön and ja making their appearance. 😳 While I waited for our group trip to start, I walked around the city, taking photos and refamiliarizing myself with the city. I also took a cruise on Lake Luzern, choosing this rather than taking the funicular to the overcast mountain peaks nearby. I took the opportunity to enjoy some Rösti for dinner, which was a change from my prior three weeks of Italian food.

The next day I met up with our RS group and guide, Fabian Rueger. Our Luzern time was mostly cold and rainy. We enjoyed a walking tour with the entertaining and informative Claudia and tasted yummy gourmet Swiss chocolate at a Max Chocolates. No comparison with US chocolate. And it’s everywhere! Even in the discount supermarket chain Migros there was an entire wall of chocolate bars and also a gourmet chocolate counter, similar to butcher counters in other stores. Wow!

On our way to Engelberg, our next destination, we stopped by Rütli Meadows, the site of historic pacts uniting Swiss cantons in the past and reaffirming Swiss defense pacts in the WWII era. We were accompanied by two St. Bernard dogs (called bari in Switzerland). My late husband was in love with St. Bernard’s when we lived in Germany, but fortunately saw the wisdom of not having one in our 5th floor one-bedroom apartment, so this was especially nostalgic for me.

Also on the way to Engelberg we toured a mountain fortress dating from WWII days. In the 70’s when we visited Switzerland our Swiss friends, who had served in the Swiss army, had alluded to the presence of these hidden military bases, even pointing out a scenic “hut,” which was actually a camouflaged entrance to one. So it was again a nostalgic as well as an interesting tour.

In Engelberg Brother Kung took us on a tour of the local monastery. I learned that Engelberg (Angel Mountain) had a daughter monastery in Mount Angel, OR, not far from my home, known to me, but the connection was a surprise to me. The monastery was beautiful.

Next morning our group took the two-cable car trip up to the summit of Mt.Titlis, which is covered year-round with snow. We hiked through an ice cave and then across a suspension bridge between two peaks. It was a bit scary, made even worse when lots of folks were on it and it began to sway. But, what’s a vacation for but adventures? As one of my tour mates, Karen, said, “Swiss engineering,Swiss engineering is a good mantra or situations like these.” After we came down from the peak, Karen, Gwen and I took the funicular up to the mountain meadow located partway up, and walked back down. While we were waiting for the funicular, Gwen noticed a vending machine in the lobby. We were amused to see the variety of items in one machine — fondue, hairspray, hand lotion, several kinds of cheese, nuts, dried flowers and hand cream. Had to take a photo of that! We ate lunch at a mountain cafe with an outside terrace. The weather was stunning, as were the views. Made it easy to forget the Luzern rain. The walk down was difficult, as the descent was sharp, but going down much easier than walking up, as we saw several people doing. (Continued)

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As we walked down, we enjoyed watching hang gliders as they soared overhead. That evening, instead of traditional buddy introductions, each person in our group told one true and one not true thing about their travel buddy, and the group voted on which was most likely to be true. I know that some people dislike this practice, but it was a very fun evening for us. We learned some very interesting facts about each other.

Our next destination was the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, the city of Lugano, so I turned on the internal language switch in my brain and resurrected my Italian. After a passeggiata (stroll) through town with local guide Julie the group took a cruise around Lake Lugano, ending at a grotto restaurant for dinner with a risotto cooking class. The weather was again beautiful and dinner on the lakeside terrace an enjoyable evening. The next day in Lugano we took a funicular to Mt. San Salvatore and enjoyed the lunch that came with the price of the funicular ride. In the afternoon Karen, Gwen and I took a boat part way around the lake and hiked back along the lakeside path. As we returned to town we ran across an impromptu parade of a local social group, who were dressed in elaborate costumes reminiscent of Venetian Carnival. I asked about this in the hotel and was told that this was just something they enjoyed doing. I suppose, when in upscale Lugano, one does such things...... In this hotel I had a room with a balcony and a view of the lake, so in the evening I enjoyed sitting on the balcony, watching people and reading a German novel I had bought that afternoon.

Our run of good weather continued as we visited Zermatt and got great views of the Matterhorn from our restaurant deck. Fabian had the great idea of taking an unusual group photo with the mountain in the background. He had us line up left to right and as he started from the left with a panoramic view he had people from the left end run around behind him to the right end of the line.This gave the effect of two views of each person on the same line. Fun!

After Zermatt we reboarded the bus and travelled to Mürren in the beautiful Lauterbrunnen Valley . Again, the weather was beautiful, and I had another balcony room with a view across the valley of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains. We took the cable cars to the top for breakfast in the James Bond-themed revolving restaurant and then enjoyed a free day hiking in the valley.

With a lunch stop in Gruyere, we then headed toward French-speaking Lausanne. On the way we stopped at family-run alpine farm, where the family makes cheese from the cows and goats they raise there in the summer. The farm was too high up and the roads too narrow for our bus, so we were ferried up in two groups in a large van. I was in the first group, and as soon as the proprietress found out I spoke German, she recruited me to translate as she explained the cheesemaking process we were watching. It was fun for me and allowed us to be less crowded in their small cheesemaking kitchen. The family had moved back up the mountain from the valley just the day before ,so we witnessed the first cheese making of the year. After Fabian and the second group had had their chance to see the cheesemaking process, our group enjoyed sampling cheese from the year before (the new cheese needed to age), homemade sausage, bread and water, soda or beer. We also had the opportunity to purchase some cheese, which I did. I LOVE cheese, and this was a great souvenir. Then the proprietress played her accordion and sang and yodeled for us. Fabian made a point of telling us that, while the family was paid for our tour and our snack, the singing and music were something she had done just because she enjoyed having us there and wanted to make us happy. Another great RS unique experience! (Continued)

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After our mountain farm visit, we drove to Lausanne. On the way Fabian had our driver stop so that we could take a short hike to a waterfall. He explained that he had learned about this waterfall while searching the local tourist bureau site for interesting info. The waterfall is unique in that it is present for only a month or so each year. It wasn’t until earlier in this century that local residents figured out why and where the source of the waterfall was, as it emerges from a flat rock face and is episodic. Apparently in the next canton there’s a lake with a pressure-sensitive natural valve on the bottom. When the lake level rises due to seasonal snow melt, the valve opens and drains the lake til it’s back at the usual level. So we happened to be there just at the right time to see it. Another RS extra due to Fabian’s diligence!

In Lausanne we visited the International Olympic Association museum and took a boat cruise on Lake Geneva to visit the Castle of Chillon. Afterwards we visited a Swiss winery on the steep lakeshore. As Swiss mwine isn’t exported to the US, this was a unique tasting opportunity.

On the way to Bern, our final stop, we stopped in Avenches, visiting Roman ruins from what had been a large settlement along a trade route. We toured Bern and had an interesting Q&A session with Diccon Bewes, a US ex-pat author of Swiss Watching, a book explaining the Swiss.

After our farewell dinner in Bern, I traveled to Zurich, spending the day using the remainder of my Swiss francs for souvenirs. I bought myself new glasses frames made in Zurich, so I’ll have a lasting remembrance of my trip, and also purchased some baby clothes (granddaughter born one week after my return!) and, of course, more souvenir chocolate.

The next morning I started on what would prove to be a 30-hour flight home due to late departure from Zurich and a massive weather delay in Atlanta en route home to Portland. I haven’t given any thought to my next trip yet. Still enjoying memories of this extended trip — three weeks in Italy and two in Switzerland.

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3561 posts

Great report Patricia! RS Switzerland is definitely a tour we would like to take. Just curious, since you are soli, did you take the single supplement?

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Yes, since my husband died, I travel alone and I always take the single supplement. First and most importantly, I don’t want to try to match up my sleep habits (light sleeper, early riser) with others, who may prefer later hours, snore, get up frequently during the night, etc. Also, as a bit of an introvert, after interacting with people all day on the tour, I need alone time to recover, reflect on my day, etc.

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6526 posts

Kateja, you can opt out of anything. People are encouraged to participate, but I've been on tours where some just said "No, thank you." and it was fine.

Patricia, thanks for the report. Sounds like you had a great time.

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1081 posts

Patricia,
Thanks for the excellent trip report! We are leaving for the RS Switzerland tour in 16 days and your report has really energized me!!

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3070 posts

Patricia, thanks for the great trip reports. Can’t wait to see your pictures of Switzerland and northern Italy and relive our South of Italy tour. You are the best “compadre” a novice traveler can have. Kathy

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As I drifted off to sleep last night I realized I had inadvertently omitted one of our tour stops, the city of Bellinzona, a historic trade route stop between Italy and Switzerland. We stopped here on the way to Ticino, visiting one of the three historic fortresses and enjoying lunch. Julie, our locale expat guide, took us through one fortress and on a passegiatta through town. It’s a charming city, one I hadn’t heard of before. And there’s great gelato there.... 😋

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Patricia, thanks for the great report. I’m headed on this tour in August and your report just increased the anticipation. Would you be willing to share what hotels the tour stayed at?

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In Luzern we stayed right on the lake at Hotel des Alpes, a great central location. In Engelberg we stayed at small, family-owned, friendly Hotel Engelberg. In Lugano we stayed at the large, business-type Hotel International au Lac. Mürren — Hotel Alpenruh, with stunning views of the valley. Lausanne — Hotel des Voyageurs, centrally located in the old town. Bern — Hotel Allegro Kursaal Bern, a commercial spa/hotel, just across a bridge from the old town. All hotels had elevators and all were comfortable and well located and offered hearty breakfasts.

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2252 posts

Nicely done, Patricia. I enjoyed reading your report and felt as if I was experiencing your tour right along with you! Thanks for taking the time to post. I think I may want to try Switzerland next.....

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2510 posts

Patricia,
I enjoyed your report - I’m intrigued by the combination of South Italy with Switzerland giving you a wider variety of experiences, culture and scenery and activities. Both tours are on my short list. Thanks for sharing!

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Lovely report, Patricia. This tour is definitely on my list!

I know a lot of travelers get sticker shock in Switzerland. How did you find the prices? I've been to the Lauterbrunnen Valley twice (courtesy of RSE!) and don't recall being particularly scandalized by how much things cost, but perhaps it's different in the cities.

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Yes,Switzerland is significantly more expensive than other European destinations, in small towns and cities as well, for food and also for souvenirs. I didn’t mind, because, in contrast to my spending habits in the USA, I don’t really budget while traveling. But there were some purchase prices that made my eyes widen. For example, my daughter was due to give birth to her first child after 15 years of marriage shortly after my return (it’s a beautiful girl!), and I wanted to buy her a special Swiss outfit. A onesie made in Switzerland and decorated with a cute Swiss cow cost me 50 SF, around $50. And I had planned to buy European glasses frames as a more useful and permanent souvenir for myself, since styles are more upscale and modern than US styles. Found a great pair, but they cost me nearly 600 SF. I know both of these purchases were extravagant and not the sort most people would choose for souvenirs, but for me they were worth it, despite the high prices.

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Found a great pair, but they cost me nearly 600 SF.

Jinkies! But you're right: that's not something every visitor would be planning to purchase.

Congratulations on your granddaughter!

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255 posts

Patricia, I loved this and your South Italy reports. What a great trip.
I like the idea of tours in 2 different areas. We did Sicily and South Italy together (hi, Buddy) and they included similar sights. Last year we visited Scandinavia then Italy—much better.
Glad to hear about the new granddaughter—congratulations