I flew DFW to Paris on October 13. Then I did something new, first time ever to take a taxi into the city. I needed to go to Gare St Lazare to catch a train to Rouen. And I knew I could do RER then metro but thought, come on, give yourself a break. So I did and, hey I liked it! I never sleep on planes so I’m pretty fried when I arrive, it was a good thing to keep it easy. So I followed everyone’s advice, I could practically hear Pam: ‘follow the blue footprints, have your credit card and written destination on a 3x5 card so everything is clear’. And it worked like a charm.
Boarded my train to Rouen and it was an easy walk to the hotel. I stayed at the Hotel le Vieux Carré. It’s in the RS book and it was ok and a good price but I wouldn’t stay there again. Another forum member, pbscd, posted a review of this hotel a few weeks ago and I pretty much agree with her assessment. Great location though. I was there 4 nights.
I’ve been wanting to go to Rouen for some time for the cathedral, the art museum and the Joan of Arc history and it didn’t disappoint. Avirosemail on the forum gave a great trip report about Rouen about a year ago that was helpful. I could have done it in 3 days instead of 4 but I’m just as glad to have a relaxing start to my trip as not. I loved the cathedral and went several times.
I loved the Joan of Arc museum. I deliberately try to travel as off season as possible and still hook up with a RS tour. This museum was clearly made for many more people on their timed tours than the 7 of us that took it that morning. You get an English language audio guide as you go through the whole thing. It was great I thought, very well done. I was the only one of our group that stayed in the last exhibit that talked about how Joan has been viewed and used throughout history. Very interesting. The far right in France have really claimed her, Jean Marie Le Pen and his political affiliations really affected the way the French do or don’t admire her today according to our tour guide, Virginie. Too bad. Such an amazing story.
I loved the Beau Arts museum, again very light crowds. It’s not often you can sit in front of an amazing Caravaggio as long as you want. It’s also free, and has a great cafe. I went in 3 different times. Unfortunately their Northern European art was not on display.
It’s a great city to walk around, relaxed vibe, I really enjoyed it. So then I took the train back into Paris, again took a taxi from Gare St Lazare to Gare Montparnasse. Got on my train to Chartres, it was very crowded, lots of people standing. Pro tip, board as early as you can to get a seat!
I checked into the tour hotel, big improvement over the last hotel and literally right across from the train station. I walked the city and went to the cathedral. Amazing. I was there 20 years ago and only remembered it as being very dark and gloomy. Not anymore, it is glorious. I went to 9:00 mass the next morning. Latin old school service complete with a relic behind glass you could line up to kiss at the end of the service. Whoa. I did not.
That evening started our Loire and S of France tour. 26 of us, several were first timers, several had done 3 or 4. Majority were retired but just barely. Several younger solo traveler women, and several older couples still working too. We were a good bunch, our guide was the wonderful Virginie. I’d heard of her before and knew she helped write the guidebooks and was considered a great guide. It’s all true. She knows everything and kept everything running smoothly for our 13 days.
To be continued….