We returned to Rome for the first time in 8 years, sort of a reacquaintance tour. Our intent was, in all seriousness, to eat our way through town enjoying favorites from our 5-year residency.
One must do something between meals, so we went in search not only of our old haunts and favorite walking routes, but sights and sites we had missed. We managed to find some great new places to eat, too.
While the lines at the Colosseum are as long as ever (we vowed after two visits many years ago never to return), we found four uncrowded and highly rewarding places to recommend. Whether on a first visit or the umpteenth, be sure to put these on your list.
I should author a book called “Rome the Umpteenth Time” highlighting the places we visited that were new-to-us. Rome may seem static, but she is always undergoing change.
• We had, remarkably, never been to the Capitoline Museums. Underappreciated, vast, uncrowded, with amazing statuary and Renaissance art plus a drop-dead perfect view over the Roman Forum. We passed a quiet hour with few other patrons around and no massive tour groups. Used the self-guided tour in the Rick Steves Rome book, by the way. Great for highlights!
• Palazzo Braschi, Museo di Roma, offers insight into how Rome has changed over the millennia, and startlingly over the past 100 years. We had visited once in 2012, but seeing these exhibits again made me realize my annoyance at the current state of pre-Jubilee clean up is a mere hiccup in this city’s progress. It would be nice if they were not renovating all the fountains at the same time. It was fun to see all the old photos and compare them to now.
• Largo Argentina, long known as a cat sanctuary, opened the sacred area in the past few years enabling one to descend to the area where the Roman senators murdered Julius Caesar. (You cannot walk in that site but still impressive!) And the cats are there too. Bonus.
• Forma Urbis, a new museum housing the surviving fragments of a stunning marble map of Rome carved early in the 3rd Century. An 18th Century grand map overlays the fragments showing the relationship to more modern locations. Hard to understand until you see it and the lights go on. A remarkable display, a quick visit, and uncrowded.
• Galleria Colonna was another repeat. We were there in 2013 on a rainy day. This time, we had dry, lovely fall weather and were able to tour the fabulous gardens which are not open when it is wet. The gardens alone were worth the price of admission. The Princess Isabella Apartments are an extra-cost add on that we popped for and were also worthwhile. Isabella was from a wealthy Lebanese family and married a Colonna prince. She used these fabulous apartments to entertain her guests. Sometimes called the Last Queen of Rome she is worth looking up on the Internet.
Part II will have a rundown of restaurants.