Eating our way through Rome was the plan after an 8-year absence. These places are worth seeking out and less frequented by tourists than many,
• Da Remo Pizzeria in Testaccio — not unknown but way off the path beat by most tourists. Only a 30-minute walk from Campo de’ Fiori, just about enough to justify the pizza eating. Thin, Roman style pizza, great suppli, fast service. The servers are practically a floor show. €32.50 for two pizzas, half-liter of house red, two suppli, water, and espresso.
• La Pratolina Pizzeria in Prati — only go if you have made a reservation because the chances of being turned away are about 99.999%. This is pinsa, a particular style with thicker crust. The crust is so delicious it is a sin not to eat every morsel. They have other menu items, but the pies are why people come here over-and-over. €59.00 for two pizzas, a bottle of red, and a liter of water.
• Taverna Rossini in Parioli — our old neighborhood place is still fabulous. We ate here about twice a month and managed to squeeze in twice during this one week. From morning coffee through midday pastas and on to evening pizza or a fancy dinner in the pescheria, Rossini never disappoints. Reservations highly advised for evenings and Sunday lunch. It is a €15 taxi ride from the Centro Storico, or about an hour’s walk. We did both — twice — for the local experience. You’ll feel like a real modern Roman. If you go, ask for the Baci di Cioccolato con Ripieno di Nutella (Chocolate covered balls of Nutella gelato served with whipped cream, hazelnuts, and chocolate drizzle). You can thank me later. This was a bit of a splurge but commensurate with what we would spend on a decent dinner at home with a modest bottle of wine.
• Osteria La Quercia — a stone’s throw from Campo de’ Fiori and a world apart. I found this place thanks to a posting on the Forum about a year ago. (Thanks to Michael from Bakersfield.) I heard a few words of English, but I think only from the waitstaff. This place was all Italian. Roman classics but creative. Things not usually on a touristic menu like bone marrow and sweetbreads. We were not that adventurous, but the moscardini were divine and you are not going to find that in Portland, OR. Another splurge meal, although after Switzerland it seemed not-all-that-bad.
• Siciliainbocca — also in Prati, you will not get food this authentically Sicilian without going to Sicily. We feasted on grilled calamari, octopus, and couscous alla pesce washed down with a favorite Sicilian wine by Donna Fugata. I had almost forgotten how good the wine is for the price. The biggest splurge of the entire trip.
• AI Pompiere — for classic cucina Romana this hostaria cannot be beat! It is at the edge of the Ghetto, a few steps off Via Arenula near Largo Argentina. In a peaceful area, run by the proprietor and a cast of assistants. Many Italian diners, always a good sign. We were lucky to be in Rome for the start of carciofi season and also to find puntarelle starting to appear on menus. I had not had that in 8 years. Roast pork and lamb for us with three antipasti plus dessert. Hey! It was our last night! Who knows when we will get to eat this way again. Reservations a must!