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Romania May 28-June 9, '24

Our Romania adventure was mostly done on the fly since on-line traveler information is light, and I did not research as much as I used to for the trip (traveling most of the time these days). We did utilize Lonely Planet guidebooks for this and the following destinations. For the most part, it worked OK not locking everything in. This was our 2nd country on a 2-1/2 month spring/early summer trip to Europe with the intent to go to some less visited countries (France before Romania being the exception).

Overall we really enjoyed Romania and would highly recommend a visit for anyone ready for a slightly off-the-beaten track destination. Food and wine were very good, lodging was inexpensive, food prices reasonable, people friendly, and the sights we hit were worthwhile. We did not experience the coast at all.

Meals were reasonable and large - we mostly split entrees. Lodging was very economical with well-located hotels or apartments around $50/night. Bathroom facilities while travelling ranged from decent at grocery stores to heavily used/abused also at grocery stores. Surprisingly, grocery costs were no different than France (based on Lidl).

Apartments thru booking.com were often the same or just a bit more than a hotel room often with the same good location.. Since we travel for extended periods, we often prefer apartments so we can dine “in” on occasion, take care of laundry, have a bit more space, etc.

I think the highlights of the country are doable by (slow) public transportation based on discussions with other travellers. However, as usual having a car is best for flexibility (but sometimes a pain for parking) and driving was not difficult on mostly 2-lane roads.

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Just bought flights. What towns did you stop in? How many nights? Any roads or towns worse than others for driving? Who did you rent your car from?

Thanks!!

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Based on our trip (and copying Steve’s rating system with ^ for a 1-3 rating) this is how we summarize what to see/do:

^^^ Sibiu (2 days)
Moderately sized quaint and easy to visit historic center with enjoyable restaurants, interesting history, and a peaceful vibe (at least in early June). The city has lots of festivals throughout the year (hotel prices can spike). Outside the town is a very large open air museum (^) .

^^^ Brasov (2-3 days)
More bustling and larger old town than Sibu with many areas to explore, many restaurants, and day trips possible to Bran’s castle, etc.

^^^ Sinaia (1-2 days)
Small touristic town with the main reason to go the very impressive Peleș Castle (^^^). Also worthwhile is a trip up the ski lifts near town to the summit for views of the valley and surrounding peaks (^).

^^^ Sighișoara (half day)
Small town with a hilltop historic area that can be done in a ½ day.

^^^ Bucharest (1-2 days)
Large city with lots of history which is worthwhile to take a walking tour to understand it all. Can be a bit gritty, and a higher rating may be justified with a more in-depth visit.

^^^ Viscri Fortified Church (1-2 hours + travel time)
Impressive small white fortified church which in a tiny dirt road village reachable by side trip between Sighișoara to Sinaia.

^^ Transfăgărășan Road (1 day w/travel time)
Scenic winding mountain road with a rickety old tram servicing the northern side (tram is open before the road in spring).

^ Biertan Fortified Church (1/2 hour + travel time)
Small village with a fortified church easily visited by car as a side trip between Sighisoara and Sibiu.

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Arrival

We flew from Lyon to Bucharest arriving at 8 pm. Based on a past RS trip report, we used “We Love Cars” for the rental car. It started off poorly when nobody showed up at the airport to get us to the off-site rental location (which email stated would happen). After repeated calls, WhatsApp messages, emails, etc., someone finally contacted us. For some odd reason they told us to go to the departure area which meant hauling our luggage upstairs and then wandering around to that location. When the van arrived the reason given for the delay/confusion was I had given them the wrong phone number (I think they did not use the country code?).

The other odd thing was during the paperwork the rep said we had to clean the car before returning - inside AND outside. I had never heard of this requirement for a rental car before! If we did not, it would cost 12 euros. Aside from that, it was a brand new VW wagon which was very good. We drove about a half hour to for a night near the airport in what seemed a bit sketchy area (or just industrial). Room was cheap but clean so ok. Side note - at the end of the trip we drove through a nasty thunderstorm with flooded streets so the rental car rep waived the cleaning fee.

Lesson learned - reach out to the company to clearly understand the pick-up means. WhatsApp is indispensable in Europe for communication…ensure you have it on your phone.

Sibiu - 3 nights

It took awhile to get out of Bucharest even though we were basically on a ring road. After that there was low traffic on 2-lane roads to Sibiu. We booked a hotel on the square as we drove to the town with plenty of availability. Parking is rather cheap - and definitely use the parking app which makes it easy to add time (parking meter has a QR code to download it). We used the parking app throughout Romania - it knows where you are when you open it which really simplifies paying, it's easy to add more time, etc..

Sibiu was one of our favorite towns in our central europe tour. Not too large of a historic center which is enjoyable to walk, very economical hotels right on the square (but prices appear to spike during some festivals), and overall a chill vibe. Nighttime can be somewhat sleepy in the historic area (at least in June), but that made it enjoyable strolling around almost by ourselves finding some very atmospheric night photos. Our weather was a mixture of sun and 70’s with some thunderstorms mixed in.

The room we initially booked at a hotel was back from the edge with windows opening to the inside covered courtyard…so we smelled the restaurant cooking. After a night we upgraded for a few euros more to a room overlooking the square which was smaller but still very nice.

We enjoyed the 10 euro walking tour offered by the city tourist office which offered good insight into the area. We also spent an afternoon at the Astra Open Air museum which left me with mixed feelings. On one hand it is one of the biggest in Europe with many structures that can take 2-3 hours to see. On the other hand, the majority of structures lacked any information whatsoever so you tend to just roam around. It seemed there was an audio guide for your phone, but as soon as we left the entrance building we lost wifi and cell coverage.

One of the many festivals, “Sunbreak Festival,” a mixture of electronic music, food, and other things was happening near the football stadium, an inexpensive Uber ride away. While there we befriended some members of a local Brazilian percussion group, who as it turned out convinced us to extend our 2-night trip for a total of 3 nights. No regrets as the town is great, but we had to scratch Cluj-Napoca from our itinerary.

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Sighișoara - 2 nights

On the drive to Sigi we side-tripped to Biertan for the recommended fortified church. We found it just OK and it probably took less than an hour to see. The “marriage prison” was amusing.

In Sighișoara we booked an apartment which was decently located at the base of the hill-top historic center. After Sibiu we were a bit let down with Sigi. The historic area was worthwhile to cover, but it seemed we could have done this as a side trip in a few hours while relocating instead of spending 2 nights. But...a low-key down day or two is ok as well. We only paid for one of the tower entrances which was combined with a 2nd museum about maps. Both small but interesting.

Brasov - 3 nights

On the drive to Brasov we side tripped to Viscri for the white fortified church. The town of Viscri has horse carts rolling around the dusty dirt roads. Don’t be discouraged…the church is pretty interesting. We found this more worthwhile than Biertan.

Brasov is bigger and bustling compared to Sibiu, but all in a good way. Our apartment was one street back from the square on a wide pedestrian only road. We spent our days doing a walking tour, hiking up to the Brasov sign then riding tram down (should have done that in reverse…), walked to the hilltop fort (can’t recall name), visited a few small museums (the Tales of Communism Museum is tiny but interesting), and enjoyed Gelato Mania (don’t miss for cheap and tasty gelato). We didn't take a day trip to Bran Castle which I regret. I think I read too many tourist trap comments, but later fellow travellers said it is worthwhile. Restaurant scene is thriving in the city and cool to experience.

Transfăgărășan Road side trip

I was unaware of this mountain road until the rental car company suggested we drive it on the way to Sibiu from Bucharest (but later rescinded that when he found out the road was not open for the season yet). In Brasov fellow travelers told us about a tram that goes up to the road top, so we added that to our plans. It would make much more sense to do this trip from Sibiu as it is a 1 hour drive, but alas we did not know about it until we were in Brasov which is a 2 hour drive…still a doable detour on the way to Sinaia.

At the tram there can apparently be huge lines, but we only had a few people when we rode up at noon. Seems I also recall the tram crew taking a lunch break(!), but we were ok. Also was stressed since it seemed credit cards were not accepted (euros were low). Turns out they do take cards and you pay at the top when you exit the tram instead of at the bottom. We arrived with patchy snow here and there around a pretty lake. After eating the lunch we packed we decided to hike down instead of taking the tram back. We had a bit of trouble finding the trail at the start since some snow was still around, but a trail app helped (Gaia GPS). It was a long 2 hour scenic hike down with occasional swarms of irritating flies to contend with (but no biters). I would love to return some day and drive the entire route - the south side is apparently also beautiful.

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Sinaia - 2 nights

This small town seems very touristic with expensive parking/dining with a ski area nearby, but the main draw is Peles castle. Despite seeing many such structures in Europe, I found Peles fascinating with amazing wood work interiors. The adjacent 2nd building which is available with a small upgrade fee is completely missable.

The following day after checking out of our hotel we drove as far up as we could, then walked 5-10 minutes to the first chairlift to ride to the summit of a ski area. This was an enjoyable excursion for a view of the town in the valley below as well as the peaks in the area. Pack clothes for cooler weather as you will climb to a high elevation.

Bucharest - 2 nights

After departing cool and refreshing Sinaia we dropped our rental car off at the Bucharest airport and Uber’d to our apartment in hot/muggy Bucharest. Although the city is a bit gritty in places, we enjoyed it mainly due to a general walking tour for context (and a communist walking tour), but it was certainly our least favorite stop in Romania. We are not big-city fans, and 90+ temps certainly didn’t help either. We were unable to see the dictator's palace due to a confusing reservation system and the fact you can’t book last minute. The much hyped evening fountains with musical accompaniment were OK but not as special as most made them out to be, and some down and out locals milling about.

Departure for Bulgaria:

Having read about some stress getting between Bucharest and Bulgaria, we opted to use Mini-bus transport only to Ruse, Bulgaria. Despite some confusion for the tourists (& drivers?) figuring out which of the 2 buses was heading where, the ride was decent in a mercedes bus thanks to decent A/C.

Bulgaria trip report to follow…

PS: PM me if you would like my Instagram username to see pics.

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Thanks so much for all this detail, as well as your impressions! I had most (but not all) of the places you went on my interest list but not yet in any organized form. So this is very helpful!