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Riga to Vilnius

This is the third installment a narrative of a vacation trip that my wife Frances and I took to the Baltic States (Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania) during August 14-28, 2017. This was an independent trip, not a package tour. We are in our early 60s, reasonably healthy, and used to walking. We are Americans, living in Alexandria Virginia. Neither of us speaks any of the languages of the three countries.

This thread covers a single, long, day, as we traveled from Riga to Vilnius.

Wednesday, August 23 (Riga to Vilnius)

Before continuing with the chronology, I have to step back and explain what we had planned before we started the trip. I am half-Lithuanian. My grandfather on my mother’s side was born in Žagarė, a village just south of the border with Latvia. My maternal grandmother was born in the USA, but her parents came from Kaunas, Lithuania’s second city and one-time capital. My ancestry was a main reason for taking this trip. Although we don’t have any information about living relatives in Lithuania or exactly where my ancestors lived, I still wanted to stand in the towns and have a look at them. Thus it was that we arranged for a private guide, Edgars Lazdiņš of Riga Taxi Tours, to drive us from Riga to Vilnius, with stops in Žagarė and Kaunas along the way.

Our original proposal was that we would stop at Rundale Palace in Latvia, proceed to the Tervete hillfort, make a stop in Žagarė, go from there to Kaunas, and at our hotel in Vilnius. Edgar pointed out that Rundale was out of the way, and it would be very late at night by the time he finished driving back to Riga from Vilnius. We agreed to cut out Rundale. (This didn’t bother us. Our trip plans usually follow the pattern of wanting to do too much and then cutting them down to size.) This exchange was carried out by email before we left home. Thus, we had a definite plan that morning in Riga: Tervete, Žagarė, Kaunas, Vilnius.
We had our breakfast, checked out of the hotel, and assembled with our luggage in the lobby. At the appointed time, I went outside to scout around and noticed a man standing on the other side of the street next to a silver-gray Volkswagen Golf. I went over and asked if he was Edgar. He was. We loaded our bags into the hatchback and set off.

As we drove out of Riga into the countryside we chatted a bit about who we were, what we were doing, and what we were seeing along the way. It was a grey cloudy day with the threat of rain in the air. I got my higher education in Iowa, and the countryside looked a lot like that: mostly flat, with fields broken by stands of trees. There were farmhouses here and there, and we would go through small towns along the highway. The architecture of the buildings, the crops, and the kinds of trees were all different, but the pattern of land use was familiar. Edgar told us about how the farms had been collectivized during Soviet times and were now being broken up into private hands again. Sometimes in the distance we would see manor houses from an even earlier time when the land had been divided into large estates.

Things began to take a strange twist when Edgar asked why we were interested in Tērvete. I said something about our interest in history and wanting see some of the country outside Riga. He remarked that Tērvete was based on a children’s story and was mostly visited by families. Our sides of the conversation didn’t seem to fit together. In short order it became clear that he was taking us to a nature park and not to a hillfort. At that point, I wasn’t sure if I had misunderstood something I had read before the trip, and so I didn’t push back about what we had planned. The hillfort was not a “must see,” more of a “by the way.” The nature park sounded like an interesting place to visit as well.

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Tērvete Park, Latvia

Somewhere around this point in the trip, Edgar suggested that after visiting Tērvete we would go on to Žagarė and then double back to see Rundale. We questioned this, because, as noted above, he had already told us that would be too much driving. He said, ah, well, he could sleep late tomorrow anyway. We weren’t about to turn down a chance to see Rundale, and so we agreed.

We pulled into the parking lot at Tērvete. Edgar showed us where the entrance was and told us he would wait in the car until we came back. We paid our admission and were given a map, which was entirely in Latvian. Off we went. Given the way our itinerary had expanded, we decided that we weren’t going to spend more than an hour or two. The park, of course, is too large to be seen in that amount of time. We walked down the main trail, a little anxious about losing our bearings, since the map that we couldn’t read would be of dubious assistance if we got lost. The signs in the park were all in Latvian too, of course. Google wasn’t good at translating signs cut into pieces of wood.

It was refreshing to get out into a natural area after spending so much time in cities. As Edgar had described it, the park has a theme based on some popular children’s books. I don’t know the details, but there are witches, ogres, bats, and a plucky little boy—the usual. We encountered large wooden bats hanging from trees, ogres sculpted from tree trunks as if they were emerging from the ground, dugout dwelling and elaborate treehouses. It was thus a combination of nature and some fanciful elements. It may have been the early morning or the fact that it was a weekday, but we encountered few other people. It was as if we had the park to ourselves.

When our planned time had elapsed, we made our way out by retracing our steps. We went through the visitor’s center, which didn’t offer much, although the restrooms were welcome. On our way back to the parking lot we came across some vendor stands and bought a couple of carved wooden drink coasters.

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Žagarė, Lithuania

We got back in the Golf and headed for Žagarė. Crossing into Lithuania was a non-event. I don’t remember if there was so much as a sign. Edgar told us that, after independence but before joining the EU, there were long queues of cars and (especially) trucks at the border.

In due course we reached our destination and stopped in the middle of town—a blocks-long oval of grass surrounded by buildings. I stepped out of the car and looked around. This moment was one of the reasons for the whole trip. I was standing on ground that my grandfather had left more than a century ago. Žagarė (sha-guy) is a town of about 2,000 people. It isn’t known for much of anything these days, although it has a long history It has a cherry festival in the summer that has turned into an arts-and-music event. Its Jewish cemetery is a memorial to its pre-war community (who were massacred in 1941, with the willing participation of Lithuanians). The town looked pretty ordinary to me: neither run down nor prosperous.

The cultural center is a moderately sized building at one end of the square. It displays the town name and the Lithuanian flag. We had Edgar take a picture of us standing outside it.

The Apostles Peter and Paul Catholic Church was not far from the cultural center. This was probably where my grandfather attended Mass. It was locked, but we could walk around inside its enclosing walls. There were outdoor shrines where you could follow the stations of the cross. I imagine there might be a procession among them during Lent.

A little further down, we found the town cemetery. We looked around a bit to see if we could spot my grandfather’s surname, without success. The cemetery was much larger than it seemed at first. It stretched off into the distance. Given our time limits, we decided to return to the car.

Edgar told us that he had been on the web and found that there was a manor house nearby that had been the home of the local prominent family. It was getting to be near 1:00 by this time. Fran and were exchanging glances about these unplanned extensions of what was promising to be a long day. However, there we were—maybe for the only time in our lives.

When we got to the manor house after a short drive, we learned that it was open for tours. However, the guide didn’t speak English (only Lithuanian and Russian). We paid Edgar’s admission (only a few Euros) so that he could translate for us.

We didn’t know much about what we were seeing at the time; I learned a bit about the manor later. The estate is quite old. At one time (in the 18th Century) it was owned by the same person who owned Rundale Paris. The current structure dates from the 19th Century. It is supposed to be patterned after an English hunting lodge, but it looks more continental to me (I’m certainly no expert). The manor is part of a larger park which (I learned later) has features that would have been interesting to see.

The owner certainly liked to hunt. There were heads of animals on all the walls. Furniture was made from antlers. It wasn’t just local game, either: There were stuffed ostriches and antelopes. One large upstairs room was crammed with what appeared to be found our salvaged objects: tools organized by trade, home furnishings, and military equipment from both world wars. I saw an old rotary calculator that was similar to one that my Dad used to have. There were old books, photographs, and phonograph records. I wondered who they had belonged to and what became of them.

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Rundale Palace, Latvia

We left Žagarė and headed back into Latvia to visit Rundale Palace. It was an hour’s drive. I don’t remember a lot about that segment of the trip. We pumped Edgar about life in Latvia and what it was like under the Soviets. He was about 40, and so he would have been a young adult when independence was restored.
We arrived at Rundale around 2:15. We were determined not to waste time, while still not rushing (yes, a difficult balance to strike).

Rundale (run-DAH-lay) is often called a little Versailles, and that was my reaction. However, it was built in 1736, about 50 years after the French palace. It was built by Ernst Johann von Biron, Duke of Courland and advisor (some say lover) of Empress Anna of Russia. After Anna was succeeded by Catherine the Great, the palace came into the hands of another favorite (and reputed lover), Prince Platon Zubov—who also owned Žagarė Manor. In the succeeding centuries the site had its ups and downs, including damage from neglect and war. It served at times as a school, a grain depot, and a stables. It was restored by the Soviets, a project that lasted from 1963 to 1972.

As a tourist site, the palace is well organized. You can buy tickets for a longer or shorter (self-guided) tour. There are guides or docents who help you get around and are reasonably friendly. While there were plenty of people visiting, we didn’t feel crowded. It certainly wasn’t the conga line of phones and selfie sticks that you experience at Versailles.

The palace is a stunning confection, with elegant ballrooms and opulent living quarters. The ceilings are painted with mythological or religious scenes. The walls have molded plaster statuary. The estate includes formal gardens, which are also reminiscent of Versailles, but on a more accessible scale. There are formal beds near the house, while further out are hedge-lined outdoor rooms enclosing pavilions. Out on the edge of the gardens is an outdoor theater that is integrated with the landscaping, not just plopped down into it.
We went through the palace in about an hour and a half, which was little enough time. On the way out, we breezed through the souvenir and food stands in search of anything to catch our interest. However, we didn’t stop anywhere.

At this point it was about 3:30 PM. We hadn’t had a meal since breakfast. We dug into our supply of Clif Bars (Edgar wasn’t interested—maybe he had brought his own lunch). Off we went again. It was a three-hour drive from Rundale to Kaunas. We were playing tag with rain all the way. We drove through brief showers. The terrain was so flat that we could see rain squalls off in the distance, complete with lightning, even when there was nothing falling where we were.

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Kaunas and Vilnius, Lithuania

The highways in Latvia and Lithuania are mostly two lane, much like the tier below the Interstates in the USA. They are heavily used, with many tractor-trailers (most of which seemed to be from Poland). It is difficult to pass on such narrow roads. Vehicles would hug the shoulder in order to let passing cars and trucks get by. It was clear that you had to stay alert for on-coming passers swinging into your lane and completing their operation at the last minute. It reminded me of my school days when I was on the backroads of Iowa. The people around us (and Edgar of course) knew the codes of behavior and cooperated. I imagine that it would have been nerve-wracking for someone who didn’t.

We saw a lot of private cars from Italy. Apparently, the Baltic states are a popular destination for Italians, who drive all the way in their cars. We even saw convoys of recreational vehicles with Italian plates. Edgar told us that these were organized tours where people drove their own Winnebago-type vehicles from campground to campground under the direction of a tour guide.

We rolled into Kaunas about 6:30. Edgar had a number of ideas about stops we should make. We were getting tired and cranky, more interested in completing our plans and moving on. We settled on two stops: Kaunas Castle and the center of town.

When we stopped at the castle, the temperature was dropping and the wind was whipping up. There was, of all things, a group of women from a hen party—all dolled up and taking pictures of each other with their phones. There isn’t much left of the castle, just two towers and the wall connecting them. We went into the closer tower and climbed the stairs to the top. There was a good view, and it looked like it was possible to walk along the gallery on the wall. However, it was so cold and windy that we decided to take a few pictures and move on.

Kaunas is a substantial city. The center is a built up and congested. Edgar had some trouble finding a parking space on a side street. We had to walk a couple blocks to get back to the main axis. It’s a pleasant area, with a wide grassy mall flanked by streets and then shops. We walked down this until we reached the plaza in front of the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul (yes, the same as Zagare’s little church). Fran took a picture of me there to record my visit to my great-grandparents’ home. I took a video panning around the plaza.

We certainly didn’t do justice to Kaunas. We hope to return someday. However, that was all we had time for that day (or, rather, evening), with Vilnius still an hour or more down the highway. As we approached the capital, the terrain turned more urban, and the highway widened to four lanes. The traffic increased commensurately, and the weather got a little worse. It was drizzling by 8:30, when we squeezed our way up Vingriu Gatve and arrived at the Hotel Rinno. We unloaded the Golf, said a hasty good-bye to Edgar, and entered the hotel.

The Rinno is lovely inside, with the look of an old-fashioned railway hotel. Our room was cozy and well furnished, about the usual size for the hotels we’ve used in the past (in other words, a bit cramped but manageable). One think that the Rinno doesn’t have is a restaurant. In ordinary circumstances, that wouldn’t have mattered to us. However, we were dead tired after 12 hours on the road. We were in a strange city, at night, where we didn’t know the language and the weather was turning bad. This was not a good moment to wander the streets trying to find a meal. Instead, we divided up our Clif Bars, unpacked, and went to bed.

Walking miles: 6.8.

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Another excellent report. Thanks for sharing. I have to admit that I wondered how you could write so much about one day as I started reading, but I got sucked into the narrative. It was interesting to learn more about the reason for your trip. Thanks again.