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Rhine River Cruise- part 1. Pretour and Basel, Colmar, Strasbourg

Pretour- I flew Finn Air from Seattle to Helsinki and then onto Zurich. I spent a night in an airport hotel, Dorint Zurich Airport, and then took the short train ride to Basel the next morning. My flights were good and I really liked making the connection in Helsinki. It is an efficient and enjoyable airport. Even though there were a few issues with a previous departure from the Schengen Zone, passport control went fairly quickly. The hotel has a scheduled shuttle at Zurich airport which runs every 30 minutes for the 5 minute ride to the hotel. The hotel was clean, quiet, and convenient. Just what I was looking for.

Basel is the first spot where I really had to start dealing with the issue of high heat. I had selected the Ibis Basel Bahnhof for my hotel in Basel for its convenient location. Just 5 minutes to walk from the train station and on the tram line. My transport was free was my Basel card from the hotel and I had a whole list of things to explore. Temps were in the high 90’s so I decided to wait a little later when things were cooling off to do much exploring. I walked back to the train station for the grocery store and had the most expensive hamburger I had ever eaten for dinner. It was still in the high 90’s. New plan- get up early in the morning and explore the old town area before it got too hot.

Onto the tram at 6:45 am for 4 stops and then a two hour walk around the old city. It was an extremely pleasant walk seeing some classic buildings, walking along the Rhine riverbank and seeing flotillas of floaters glide by in the river, watching stall keepers setting up for market, and school children making their way to school. I enjoyed this time of exploring.

Hotel check out meant it was finally time to begin my Rhine River Cruise. I decided to use Uber to get to the ship due to the high temps. We arrived at the dock only to discover no riverboat tied up there. It was a slightly remote, slightly industrial area and I felt more than a bit of anxiety at this point. I thanked the driver, grabbed my bags and headed for some near by shade. I turned on my US Phone line and called the company’s emergency number for travelers which is staffed 24/7. The agent informed me that low water had required the ship remain down river and the first three nights of my tour would now be done by hotel stays and bus touring. An email had been sent to me two days previously with new arrangements. I later found this email in my spam folder. Armed with address of the hotel I needed to go to, I arranged for Uber to pick me up. 22 minutes later it picked me up and I was able to join my cruise group. I learned to let the provider know the best way to contact me near my travel time is what’s app. It certainly wasn’t the cruise line’s fault it went to spam.

There are a 63 passengers on my cruise and 3 staff members present to facilitate our alternate plan. We have one night in Basel and two nights in Strasbourg before joining our cruise ship in Boppard for the final four nights of the cruise. It is disappointing to have plan B in operation but the cruise line is doing all it can to give us the best experience possible. Nice hotels, breakfast and dinner served at the hotels and €75 a person given to us to buy our lunches these three days. We are continuing to do the very excursions with local guides that we would have done from the ship.

All the other cruise lines are in this situation as well. One cruise line that did not retreat downstream fast enough has two ships “stuck” in Basel. Those passengers will do all 7 nights by bus.

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Part 1 continued. Colmar was our first stop. Our 63 passengers have been split between two large coaches. One local tour guide was assigned to each coach and gave a 2 hour walking tour. Let me be the first to say Colmar is lovely. I kept expecting Belle from Beauty and the Beast to turn up any moment. The temp was 99 degrees and there many other tourists. It made truly enjoying it a bit of challenge. We had free time in the afternoon and I opted for the air conditioned museum where I learned everything I could ever want to know about altar pieces which turn out to be really quite interesting. I was particularly impressed with how vibrant all the colors were. Many nice benches to just sit quietly and enjoy.

We boarded our coaches for the hour drive to Strasbourg. It reached 103 degrees in Strasbourg that afternoon and we were told it had the distinction of being the hottest place in Europe that day. I really don’t want to have that distinction very often! Our hotel here is the Sofitel which is well located but living on a bit of faded glory. Still, it met the need and is just a 7 minute walk to the Cathedral.

We started the next day with an 1.5 hour walking tour which was really well done. I followed that up during free time with a one hour canal cruise on a boat that was fully air conditioned. So pleasant to glide down the canals and learn even more about the region. Lunch was at a guide recommended restaurant where I tried a local specialty , Tarte Flambé.

A quick walk back to the hotel where I am writing this and will probably take a nap.

No one wants plans disrupted on a trip. I just keep reminding myself that though it might not be the exact experience I signed up for, it doesn’t mean it can’t be a good experience.

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5970 posts

Commenting as a reminder to follow. I'm always interested in Trip Reports and travel styles that are in places that I've visited, so I get the impressions of others. I know it's not what you wished for, but I get the added bonus of reading about what happens when the ship can't make it to some ports. Good attitude that it can still be a good experience.

What cruiseline are you on?

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5030 posts

This is specifically the reason we hesitate to take a river cruise. But it reads like they had a great Plan B and you got to see the places you were expecting to visit. I’ll be reading along…..

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12627 posts

Carol, I loved your description of Colmar and how you felt like Disney's Belle could have stepped out of it! I loved Beauty and the Beast and the charming town she lived in, so that is quite the commendation. I'm heading to Colmar in December with my sister to see their Christmas market and can't wait to visit the town.

I'm sorry about the delay and the low river levels, though. I've been hearing about that for the last couple of years and it sounds like it is an ongoing problem that probably will not be alleviated in the near future.

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5970 posts

Mardee, if you like Beauty and the Beast, make your way to Eguisheim. While all the towns in the area claim to be the inspiration for the movie, the town square in Eguisheim with its fountain is where I thought was the closest match to the movie's opening scene.

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12627 posts

Allan, that looks wonderful! And the photos of it show incredible charm. Definitely adding that to my list! Thank you! I'm tempted to add it into my Christmas market trip, but with only 2 nights in Strasbourg, and wanting to see Colmar, I don't know that we will have time (sigh).

My seatmate on my recent Delta flight from MSP to Duluth used to live in that area, and she mentioned Kaysersberg as a good place to visit as well.

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2430 posts

Carol, I'm impressed with your resilience between the insufferable heat and the hotel substitutions. We did a barge cruise in Burgundy many years ago. Due to water levels we had to leave the small canals midway in the trip and travel on the wide Saône River. No more biking and walking along the towpaths, but still a lovely trip.

Mardee, you're going to love the small villages around Colmar. And the best Tarte Flambée is at tiny restaurant La Soï. Reserve in advance.

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100 posts

Carol: sounds like you are pivoting nicely to the changes to your plans. Attitude is everything! I'm so glad you are enjoying Colmar....I found it lovely as well (but I was there in late November, so I think you and I packed different wardrobes! ;)

Mardee: I was in Colmar for the Christmas market a few years ago and the whole town was just something to behold with all the decorations and lights! Magical! Our favourite thing was wandering around at night, as many of the buildings had Christmas scenes/decor projected on to them.....it was so lovely! I second the recommendation to go to Kaysersberg.....it was also stunning! There was a glass blowing studio and shop that had the most incredible, large blown glass red and green apples lining their courtyard. I would have loved to bring one home but it would have been impossible. Look for the tower just above the town.....it is an easy walk and you can just climb up to the top (there was no one around and no fee) to get a beautiful view of the vineyards all the way to Germany. The other town we really liked was Turckheim, which is a quick train ride from Colmar, and had a lovely little Christmas Market. Wandering through the town was really special and every house seemed to be decorated. It was a very worthwhile day trip.