I wanted to thank everyone who gave advice and suggestions! Some magical moments - seeing the sunrise over canals in Venezia. Watching a really lurid thunderstorm coming in over the Grand Canal, followed by a downpour, a rainbow, a beyond-gorgeous sunset. Actually being in the Scrovegni Chapel, instead of just seeing pictures. Stumbling upon an early music concert while wandering through Mantova - at an intersection with Via Claudio Monteverdi, no less. Eating dinner in a trattoria in Verona with a birthday party going on in the next room, and being surprised by the birthday person giving me a piece of his birthday tiramisu. Going through the cactus area at the gardens at Trautmansdorff Castle along with a group of school kids who kept shouting "Buon Giorno, Cactus!!". (I was pretty excited about the cacti, myself.). Getting to hear the rude 'Dottore!' song on the street in Padova. Being mistaken for a resident, while standing quietly gazing at the Adige river in Verona - only lasted until I spoke... :(
I wrote in another post about the great cooking class in Padova, but also wanted to mention how vibrant and beautifully liveable I found the whole atmosphere of the city. I loved the big open-air markets, and the evening scene in the vicinity of the Palazzo Bo. There was music! Dancing! Flowers! Giant bubbles being created to amuse the kids! Loved it!
Really, though, I found myself spending as much time as possible in Venezia. It was my second time, I'd done a lot of reading in the meantime, and it was truly thrilling to have good ideas about what to see and do, and be able to find my way around well, while still experiencing the pleasures of serendipity. Gotta go back!
Thnaks for the great report - I am returning to NE Italy this summer, it's a beautiful area.
Thanks, Zoe - happy NE Italy travels to you, too.