Please sign in to post.

Report from Iceland,, Sept. 2025

(I’ve included our costs for food here to help others understand the relative expense. We ate several lunches using bread and peanut butter.)

We took advantage of Icelandair’s direct flight from BNA to KEF, stopping in Iceland for five days, six nights before traveling onto The Netherlands . We design travel based on our diverse interests: my husband is a geology major, and I’m an artist. The Netherlands trip report will be filed in a few days.
.
We splurged on premium seats, booking eight months in advance, and the expense was worth it to us. Since we had two distinctly different trips and went direct , checking our three bags made sense. I slept for four hours, and woke to the aurora over the North Atlantic. Upon arrival a beautiful blustery grey day greeted us. If one arrives from a non-Schengen country, planes park on the tarmac, passengers get on a bus and are driven to the lower level of the terminal. Signs indicating where to go were very clear. Passport control was easy, as was claiming our bags. What wasn’t easy was getting coffee. We made the mistake of going upstairs and were told we HAD to be served in the non-Schengen lower level. Coffee and a pastry $9.92.

Picked up our Toyota Aygo at Blue. Small snafu in getting there. It should’ve been less than a five minute walk to the Blue rental site, but a combination of tiredness and exhilaration had us stumble onto an unnecessary shuttle bus. Once rented, full insurance, all packed, we drove to Reykjavik, trying to follow Google’s directions, getting lost once, and somewhat stressed once we hit the city. I was not expecting sprawl. We finally got into the old town, lucked into a two-hour parking spot, checked into Hotel Centrum.

Advice for future travelers: download the Country’s parking app, Parka, before you arrive It works for the Golden Circle as well as Rejkavik. Our room was ready an hour before check-in, so DH parked as I lugged our bags totherooom.

Had Saeta Svinio gastro pub lunch (fish soup, lamb shoulder sandwich with loads of fries), $76.33. Sustained, we ambled through the town, enjoying murals, the crisp air and architectural details. Picked up bread, peanut butter, cheese and some at Kronan, along with some eucalyptus gum (who knew?) $44.76., Back to the hotel, then down to the harbor, enjoying the ships and drizzle.
For dinner Siri guided us to an excellent vegan restauran, Vegan World Peace, nicely spiced Tom Yum soup, great tofu salad, $42.64. Back to the hotel and a lovely sleep.

Posted by
9575 posts

Instead of making separate, new posts, post all of them here as replies. Otherwise, they will all get lost from each other.

Posted by
46 posts

Day 3
Walked to Braud for breakfast and coffee (happy marriage cake, sweet roll, coffee, $22.63), packed,left Reykjavik in heavy rain. Took about 30 minutes to clear suburbs but not the skies. Then the beauty of Iceland gob-smacked me. DH got us through the tunnel to Snaefellsnes, and I took over driving to our lodging, Langaholt. He explained geology while I kept the car under the speed limit, irritating locals who passed me. We did stop for a sheep escape, and enjoyed the look of the ewes and rams as they monopolized the road for a bit.

Langaholt wasn’t quite ready for us, so we stowed our bags and drove to Vatnshellir lava tubes “cave” up the road. Definitely not a dry cave, so keep your raingear on, and be prepared for slippery spiral ladders up and down. Stopped at Malarrif Lighthouse, walked to the Londrangar View Point and I was so grateful for this windy, thundering beauty.

Langaholt’s dinner was delicious, with a smorgasbord of seafood (the best mussels I’ve ever eaten) but pricey. Captured audience, I guess. $136.12. Early to bed, trying for another aurora, but clouds rolled in.

Posted by
46 posts

Day 4
After a Langaholt breakfast (coffee, juices, oatmeal, cheese, sliced meat, bread, $41.50) and an incredible sunrise, we drove to Hollnar, stopped by Raudfeldsgja’ Gorge. (This was the only clear, sunny day of our Icelandic tour).. Good waterproof boots are essential, and if you’re not steady on your feet, hiking poles. We got to the mouth of the canyon, and decided not to go further. At this point we noticed two buses of tourists following us, so we skedaddled to Arnarstapi for a cliff walk to Gatlettur and basalt formations, a visit to the weather-worn Statue Bardur, and soup lunch at Samkorvahusia Arnastapa (forgettable vegetable for me, good lamb for DH $55.76).

Tour buses arrived, we departed for the Snaefellsnesvegur National Park and Djupalonssandur, a black pebble beach scattered with rusted wreckage from the downed boat Epine GY7. In the midst of wild beauty, the story of this ship and those who lost their lives attempting rescues gave us pause.

We drove to Saxholl crater. If you go here, keep in mind the ascent is steep but manageable on gridded iron stairs. The wind was constant but not too bad for DH to enthuse about the lava. Our last stop was Svodufoss Waterfall, a short hike and almost interrupted a wedding at the base of the falls.

Now, I knew it’s difficult to find w.c.s in the wilds of Iceland. So we hurry to Olafsvik. Disappointment came because most establishments close Saturday at noon. We decided a very early dinner would save us, so two pizzas and a glass of wine at Sker Restaurant ($89.70). We happily settled down, overlooking Olafsvik’s beautiful harbor.

Bypassed the Snaefellsvegur volcano on the way back back to Langaholt. While the day had been beautiful, sunset brought clouds: no aurora.

Day 5
Langaholt served the same breakfast as the day before, but the sunrise brought a rainbow and a gorgeous gold to the day. We left Snaellfess via Borgarnes on our way to Thingvellir National Park. Unfortunately, DH relied on Google Maps, so we drove from Route 54 to 52, which quickly became a bone-jarring gravel road, liberally marked with potholes. On the bright side: no traffic, beautiful views.

After figuring out parking (kiosk at the lot, NOT PARKA) we hiked between the plates, easy hike, and a quick detour to the Oxararfoss waterfall. We aimed to “do” Golden Circle, so off we went to Geysir. BEWARE upon leaving the Park: speed limit is 30 K per hour not 40. I was going 38, and may have a ticket awaiting me at home. We “did” Geysir and Gullfoss after. I would not do it more than once, but for those who prefer a more accessible form of nature,this might be right up your alley.

Last stop of the day, Frost and Fire Hotel in Hveragerdi. The town used to have a big greenhouse industry until the Icelandic government privatized its utilities. Apparently it no longer makes economic sense to grow food this way here, as imports are cheaper. As greenhouses are razed, housing is constructed. Perhaps for former Grindavik residents? The hotel has several fumaroles and the river Varma behind it is warm-ish, according to the hotelier. Ate at the town’s Foodhallen ( ) met some tourists from Iceland. We traded stories about maternity leave policies.

Back to the hotel and a bask in a hot tub fed by underground water.. We watched the evening stars as clouds rolled in. No aurora. But great sleep listening to Varma.

Posted by
46 posts

Day 6
Because we’d spent the previous day circling Icelands Favorite Spots, we’d made room to hike to Sundhnukur volcano our last full day. Happy for my hiking pole, and warm layers as we climbed up. But what a amazing site to a world of active steam vents and recent lava streams. We got almost all the way to the volcano when the increasing winds and clouds persuaded us to return to our car.

We drove into Grindavik for sodas. After a few minutes, I realized this beautiful place is a ghost town. Businesses, schools, homes are all empty. At our restaurant, the hostess told me the 2023 volcano followed by smaller eruptions (and shrank the town from 7,000 to 200 residents. The restaurant keeps a You-tube feed on, with a shot of the volcano, a chart of seismic activity, and another chart of She seemed hopeful once the government fixed the schools that its citizens would come back. However,she also noted they had evacuated several times in June.

We left Grindavik, driving past the power plant that feeds the Blue Lagoon, and made our way to Keflavik, staying at Hotel Berg. DH allowed me to drive back into Reyjkavik for the “famous” hot dogs (—-). Not the best use of our last afternoon, as it reintroduced us to traffic. However, our hotel offered another hot tub, which was delicious. We woke up in plenty of time to return our car and check into the chaos of early morning Keyflavik security.

What We Packed that was essential:
Water-and wind-proof rain jackets with lots of zippered pockets
Water-and -wind-proof pants
A pair each of dry-wick tights
Hiking stick and knit knee brace for me
Two long-sleeved poly tees each
A merino wool sweater each
Quarter zips each
Waterproof gloves
Two pairs of wool socks each
Waterproof gloves
Knit hats
Small knapsack
Sunblock, chapstick, sunglasses
Real boots, not walking shoes

Posted by
10367 posts

Thanks for the trip report, watercolorwiz! I'm heading to Iceland next year with my daughter (plus Sweden and Norway) and this will be very helpful. I've been to Iceland before but only for a few days and that was back in 2018, so I definitely need a refresher.

I've saving this post as I think it will be very helpful, and thanks for including the costs of items! It sounds like you had a wonderful time and I can't wait to go back there!

Posted by
8423 posts

I now see why Icelanders remain slim with the price of restaurants. Sounds like a tough place to travel for the mobility challenged--like my wife.

Posted by
10367 posts

I'm glad you enjoyed Snaefellsnes as that is one place I would love to visit.

We finally got into the old town, lucked into a two-hour parking spot, checked into Hotel Centrum.

Where did you go after the 2 hours was up? Just curious about parking. I know it makes more sense to rent from the airport but I hate the idea of driving in the city.

Posted by
46 posts

Mardee,
DH found a spot about two blocks further away from the Hotel Centrum, in a residential neighborhood. It did require parallel parking. We noticed parking spaces really opened up after 4:30 p.m.

I think if had been me, by myself, I’d have used the bus service myself because of tiredness.

Posted by
10367 posts

Thanks! I used the bus last time. I guess it depends on where we go first. One suggest from another person here said to leave Reykjavik for the end, which might be a thought. But we'll see - so many decisions to make. 😊