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Renew the Soul on Iona, Lunga and Staffa Islands

In 1807, British poet William Wordsworth penned the sonnet, "The World is Too Much with Us":

The world is too much with us; late and soon,
Getting and spending, we lay waste our powers;—
Little we see in Nature that is ours;
We have given our hearts away, a sordid boon!

To reconnect with nature and the self, multiple cures are available, one of which is travel. Last month, I spent two nights on Iona Island in Scotland and took a tour of sister islands nearby, Lunga and Staffa. A visit to them definitely stilled the heart and calmed the soul.

With a population around 100 people, Iona felt like a visit to the era of beehive huts, scriptoria and high crosses. Founding the Abbey of Iona in the 6th century, St. Columba's spirit still permeates the site. I could imagine him, stylus in hand, on the small hill that once housed his writing cell. The view of the Sound of Iona is as beautiful as Big Ben, the Eifel Tower and the Colosseum. As expected, a tour of the isles of Lunga and Staffa to view the puffins, caves and geologic formations was great, but the it was the trip on the Atlantic Ocean that was the highlight. Even with a strong swell, the ocean felt like an embrace.

Wordsworth's poetry was in mind because I had also visited the Lake District, including his home Dove Cottage, as part of the same pilgrimage for a five-day hike. Disregard the world of getting and spending awhile and refresh the soul in Scotland and northern England.

Posted by
8549 posts

Especially now, I wish the forum had a love button! What a great post, thanks, Craig!

Posted by
210 posts

" refresh the soul in Scotland and northern England "

This is exactly how I feel when visiting Scotland but could never have articulated it so beautifully Craig.

Posted by
12732 posts

Craig, if you liked those islands, I. think you would really enjoy the isle of Raasay, which is a tiny island near Skye. It was a breath of fresh air after the crowds on Skye and the other islands. It was such a joy to be there, enjoying the solitude and lovely scenery.

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841 posts

@Mardee: Thank you for the recommendation. The Isle of Raasay sounds beautiful. For this journey, we had thought about visiting the Trotternish Peninsula, right next to Raasay, but opted for Iona because we had been in the Lake District in England for a week and wanted to spend a couple of days in the city, Glasgow.

And hello to Duluth. It's my favorite Midwest town. I visited and passed through a couple times on route to the Boundary Waters or Quetico in Ontario.

Posted by
2001 posts

This was just a lovely reminder of much less famous places that soothe the soul. I recall sitting on a hilltop in Burma in a small town & I could only hear human noises, nothing made by engines. It was SO soothing!

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12732 posts

Craig, I loved Iona, too, and loved your words describing it. I was scheduled to go to Staffa and Lunga, but the weather was bad that day and we couldn't even get close to the islands.

I will pass on your hello to Duluth. Luckily we have not been hit with the heat wave that has affected other places, and the weather is beautiful right now. It's starting to get a little warmer (mid-80s today) but no humidity.

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12732 posts

Sandancisco, I love moments like those and they are to be treasured.

Once when I was in Turkey, I walked from Goreme, where I was staying, to a tiny little village called Cavucin. The town itself is rather nondescript, but as I walked through the narrow cobbled streets, I saw an older woman walking along a wooden cart being pulled by a donkey. Farther down, a young girl was leading a goat down the street. Eventually I made my way up into the hills surrounding the town, climbed up a few hundred feet and realized I was sitting on top of the world with a view for miles around. All around me were magical fairy chimneys, caves dating back thousands of years, and hills covered with bright yellow wildflowers and poppies. The only sounds I could hear were birds and tiny insects—no planes, trains or roaring cars. I felt more peaceful and serene than I had ever felt before.

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I’ll be in Oban October 2 on the Rick Steve’s tour. Since the puffin season is well past by this date, is it worth booking on my own a tour to Staffa? On October 3 we visit the islands of Mull and Iona as a group.

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8549 posts

@Craig, I've been trying to find a simple map with a walking tour of Iona for myself and my 89.5 yr old mom. We will have two hours since I'm using the ferry, bus ferry package. I like she would be interested in the local crafts, history and the Christianity aspects, and of course we can't do it all. We will be there in October. Any suggestions? mom walks verrrry slowly. I wish we had more time on Iona, but such is life. . .

I feel like I've seen a map somewhere, maybe the newest RS guide, which I've requested from my library. I have a slightly older guide.

@Mardee lovely memory and writing.

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6144 posts

jules m - we just did Iona last month. We rented a car in Oban (saw you are doing that too) and took the ferry to Mull and took the lovely drive across the island for the ferry to Iona. We did this instead of a group tour package because 1) the cost was much less and 2) we could go at our own pace. We had about three hours on Iona and it wasn't enough. My son (a recent graduate of University of Edinburgh) featured Iona in his dissertation and he would have loved more time (he still lives in Scotland, so he can easily go back). I would also say that the scenery as you drive across Mull is stunning and it is nice to be able to stop and look.

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841 posts

@Ellen: I think it is worth booking a tour to Staffa despite puffin season being over, depending on your preferences. Though you will visit Mull and Iona as part of a tour, just crossing the sea to Staffa (and Lunga Isle, I hope) is worth it on your own. Plus, hiking on Lunga is great.

@Jules m: Iona is very small -- our B&B owner said the year-round population is about 90 people -- but your mom is 89.5 years old, so it will be difficult for her. One suggestion is to skip the stores and focus instead on the history and Christianity. There aren't that many stores, and the offerings were middling. Also, get Rick's guidebook and follow his Iona walk; the book has a map on pg. 293 of the latest edition, and it looks like you've ordered it from the library. His old editions will likely have a map. Focus on the nunnery ruins, the Heritage Center and the beautiful Iona Abbey. Make sure to visit the museum next to the Abbey, as it's sort of hidden from view. It's one of the best museums I have been to in 24 trips abroad.

As @Emily noted, the scenery on the Isle of Mull is to die for.

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8549 posts

@Emily, My word! How did I not explore that idea! I'm already renting a car for a day. I could add a second day and drive myself! Was there parking by the ferry to Iona? How did you find the driving on Mull? I guess being from Vienna, you also are not as used to driving on the "wrong" side. I'm told parking by my Oban hotel isn't easy, so I'd have to explore that.

@Craig, thank you. Good to know the shops are not as compelling as they looked in whatever video I was watching. I am so not a shopper! I knew I'd seen a map somewhere. Initially, I had a library RS guidebook. Lately, I'm working with my DIL's guidebook which did not have a map. So somewhere along the line a map was added. I recalled that whatever map/walk tour I found was super helpful.

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6144 posts

Jules m - Plenty of parking at the ferry dock to Iona (and one glorious seafood shack). Driving was no big deal for my husband. It’s a one lane road with pull offs. Very little traffic. As for parking in Oban, we just kept the car in the rental agency parking lot. Easy peasy.

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231 posts

Hi Craig, yes, nature is such a soothing element for the soul. Thanks for posting the Wordsworth sonnet.

I love when a person's name matches their profession. His words are really worth reading...;)

I really look forward to a return trip to Scotland someday and making my way to Iona and the surrounding isles.