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Regensburg, Munich, & Dachau

The Deutsche Bahn had tickets on sale last month, so quickly bought 2 round trip tickets to Munich for a total of 58 €, thanks to our 50% bahn cards.

Left Mon. morning at 8 and arrived at 11:15. We had made reservations at Motel One West near the train station, but this was still a short tram ride from the HBF on tram 19. We got a 3 day group ticket for 27 euro. The machine in the tram didn't work and for those who want to get tickets on trams, be aware that they only take EC cards, no bills, no coins, no credit cards. Hotel for 2 days including breakfast and wi-fi was 206 €. A tad more, but we wanted AC and boy, we were glad we had it. Munich temps were hovering at 100°F. and sleeping in a cool room was heaven.

After dropping off our bags, we headed into the city to explore. I like old churches so we popped into all of them that we passed. Walked through the Victualen Markt, but it wasn't really any different from our regular markets in Frankfurt other than the stands were permanent and ours are set up in different locations every day. Nothing looked tempting enough to stop and linger. We stopped at one of the bier gartens and had lunch. Tasty käse spätzle. More exploring and then finally back to the hotel check in, meet a friend, and then a light dinner at an Italian restaurant a block away. It was too, too hot to walk much farther.

Tues. morning we went on a private tour to Regensburg. This included a visit to the underground Jewish ruins found in the early 90's, a visit to the Abbey, and walking the circumference of the Roman Walls. Very massive and impressive. The bridge over the Danube is under construction, so no pretty photos. My favorite stop here was St. Peters which had the most gorgeous stained glass windows I think I have seen in Germany. The architecture of the church was very beautiful. Lunch at a little beer garden. It was decent food, but not exceptional. I really liked Regensburg and can recommend it for anyone looking for original architecture, tiny lanes, and interesting quirky bits through-out the city as shown to us by our guide, Taff. We would have never seen the imbedded Jewish grave stones in a house otherwise, nor the many Roman walls. He had all kind of things for us to examine, like Roman pottery, coins, armor, swords and helmet. Yep, he was carrying all of this with him, all day long. In the heat!

Wed. morning, we met with Taff again and went to Dachau. This is a quick train ride, but the bus from the station to the KZ was packed! For anyone worried about finding the way alone, signage is excellent. This was my first time to Dachau so I was interested to see the differences between this KZ and the others I have visited. There is an awful lot of text to read with lots of photos, but not really any artifacts like I have seen in Sachsenhausen, Bergen Belsen or Ravensbruck. The memorials there created by the various faiths were unique and moving. Taff had brought along a pair of original boots/shoes which was quite special to actually hold, as well as K-rations, shrapnel, and chits used by the prisoners. We liked that he explained the process of becoming an authorized guide at Dachau, which takes a year and includes lectures, meeting survivors, practical experience, and being filmed. At the gas chambers and large crematorium, we were to go in without him as guides are supposed to stay outside and let people be alone inside with what they are seeing. This keeps the guides from influencing this emotional moment. One of the plaques caught my eye, from the 4 British women who were raped, tortured and murdered there. I had not known of this.
We then walked the forest path were the many ashes had been strewn, pausing to read the various plaques and memorials. I think I found this to be the most moving, but maybe it was because there weren't many people back there? The rest of the memorial was quite crowded.

Posted by
8938 posts

Lot of student groups there from everywhere, Spanish, French, American, Dutch, and German. We discussed Rick's statement that all German students have to visit a KZ and we wonder where he had heard this as it doesn't seem to be true. Not in Bavaria, not in Berlin, and not in Hessen. Since there 16 states and each one controls their own education curriculum, it seems really doubtful that this is a requirement anywhere at all in Germany. Many classes may go there depending on their studies, but certainly not a requirement.

Often on the forum here, people ask which KZ they should visit because they are going to both Berlin and Munich or possibly someplace else in Germany. How do you compare something so horrific? You can't really, but here are my own recommendations speaking only of Germany. I found the exhibits in Bergen Belsen to be outstanding, though you will need a good portion of your day for this, including walking the grounds. There are many, many films to watch, and artifacts created by the prisoners, poems, pictures, etc to see. The grounds are very emotional to walk through as it is nothing but one mass grave after another. The whole camp was burned down by the British Army due to the Typhoid contamination, but that doesn't detract from the visit and they have not recreated buildings that were once there.

Ravensbruck and Sachsenhausen both have many original buildings as they were used after the war by the Soviets. Both have many artifacts to see and excellent museums presenting facts, photos, documents, and films. Ravensbruck has a completely different aura about it though, which I have written about in other trip reports. Going into the guards cabins, looking out at the lake with the pretty town across the way and thinking about how they closed their eyes to what was plainly in front of them. Presently reading a book about it and what went on here with the Communists, the Jehovah Witnessess, the prostitutes, and all the other women here will make you cry.

So, I am going to come out and say to visit any of those 3 instead of Dachau, simply because I found the presentations to be superior than to those that I saw in Dachau. I am glad though that we had a private guide for Dachau as he pointed out numerous hidden spots that we probably would not have noticed, and gave us much information that helped us understand what was going on here before Dachau was even built and the underlying reasons why it was built in this spot rather than someplace else.

We used Dark History Tours for both days of private tours. You would be hard pressed to find a more informative, as well as amazingly passionate, tour guide in Germany then Taff Simon.

Posted by
32692 posts

Great report, Jo, thanks so much.

We thought about going to Dachau this most recent trip but still have quite strong memories of the KZ there from our first trip there 15 years ago.

We love Regensburg, too.

I find that the easiest way to get transport tickets in Munich is to use the MVV app. I'm not sure if it is available for Android but the iPhone app is a peach. Is it absolutely trivial to buy any sort of MVV ticket and the ticket just stays on the phone. Easy to use with a credit card, they even scan the card with the iPhone camera so all you have to do is put in the security code. They activate a text type ticket that you tap and then it is a real validated ticket with security measures. We bought ours sitting in our hotel room, then used the rest of the app to tell us when to go outside for the bus to the station. It even had real time tracking of trams, S-bahns and buses. I just had my phone hidden away on my person in case there was a ticket check.

Posted by
7025 posts

Great report Jo! I too loved Regensburg, of the towns I visited in Germany last summer it was one of my favorites. Agree about St Peters and the beautiful stained glass. After reading your report I went back and reviewed my pictures, I had forgotten how many I took of both the inside and outside of the cathedral, the stained glass and the organ pipes. It's a gothic treasure.

Posted by
193 posts

Thank you for the nice report, Ms. Jo! I actually started to reply this morning but then got busy and never finished. But your comments, especially on Dachau, helped me get my notes in order for my on-going trip report. I have a few more countries to get to before Germany on my posts, but your details helped me jump to my notes and get some thoughts recorded. I am glad we visited Dachau, but I do not think its the most powerful concentration camp experience - not to discount the horrors that happened there by any means, but it's tricky to write about a place like that in the midst of all the nice experiences we had. It sounds like your tour guide was wonderful and helped bring more meaning to your visit.

Germany was the last country we visited and we hope to return in the near future to explore more.

Posted by
12040 posts

Thanks Jo, it's nice to read an "insider's perspective."

I'm surprised the bridge in Regensburg is still under construction. I visited about two years ago, and they were working on it back then. Looks like you missed their Bürgerfest, though, which is one of the better annual town fests I've encountered in Germany.

Posted by
564 posts

Thanks Jo for your report. I always enjoy reading your perspective knowing you live in Frankfurt.
I had always heard that students must visit some form of camp during their education in Germany.

Both my grandkids experienced this when they attended school in Germany while they were posted there as a U.S. Military family. The youngest (elementary) visited Dachau and the oldest (high school) visited Sachsenhausen.. They thoroughly enjoyed the 3 years they lived there.

Posted by
14499 posts

@ Diana...I believe having the students visit a camp depends on what type of secondary education school (Gymnasium, Realschule, Gesamtschule, etc, ) the student is attending, what the policy from the Ministry of Education is. It's very easy to check. In Berlin if the student is attending a public Gymnasium (the university tracked kids), as opposed to a private school such as Waldorf, or a Realschule, that student will be going to see a camp as part of the mandatory curriculum. It's not up to the teachers. I know that in 1971 Gymnasium pupils were visiting a camp. I met them, got to know some of them. They were a school group from the Ruhr area on a field trip at the end of August 1971. We were all staying at the Munich hostel where there were also lots of North American backpackers. I saw hardly any contact between them and the German Gymnasium kids who were only a few years younger. Maybe it was language or culture or just lack of common interests. Those kids were there in Munich not only to visit the famous art museums but also to visit Dachau. They and I discussed it afterwards. I never did ask the kids, these 17 year olds, whether going to Dachau was mandatory or a choice by their teacher, whom I met too at the insistence of his students.

Posted by
8938 posts

This claim recently popped up over on the Rick Steve's Facebook page, because he is filming in Germany. Somebody claimed that it was a requirement for all German students to visit a Concentration Camp. This is a myth and not true.

Having lived here since 1986, I have never heard of this except on the RS forums. My daughter went to Gymnasium, my son to Realschule and this was not part of their curriculum. Individual states would control this too, not the federal government.

I recently asked my friends who went to school in several different states (Hessen, Rhineland Pfalz, Baden-Württemberg, Bavaria, Berlin) and they found this to be absolutely absurd that people think this would be a "requirement" in Germany. It may be part of a students history class to do this, but it is not part of the school system requirements.

I wish Rick would stop saying that it is.