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Quick, short last minute trip to Malta

Backstory: We (husband and I) are in Croatia for a month visiting family. A cousin went to Malta last month with her daughter and loved it so much she wanted to go again with her husband. So, she asked us, we said yes, add another cousin. She made all the arrangements. She booked on Thursday, we went Wednesday. The cousins - 1 does not speak any English, 1 speaks very limited, and 1 can read and speak better English.

Flight - we booked through Ryan Air, €100 R/T. The flight was actually on Lauda Europe Ltd. A Maltese sub. The flight was very pleasant. The seats roomy, plenty of leg room. Travel time was about 1.45 hours from Zagreb.

Hotel - I wish. She booked through booking.com a 3 bedroom apt in St. Julian. Not a great location. We had to uber everywhere. Slim pickings when you book last minute. This was our first time with an AirBnB and last. I won’t bore you with the details and my complaints.

Tours - one 8 hour tour through get your guide entitle Malta: Highlights of Malta & Mdina Full day Tour with lunch. It was actually a very nice tour and very well organized. They picked us and other up near our apt and took us, to a parking lot where we then were grouped by tour and language. Off we went to see
San Anton Gardens - trees but no flowers or grass. A lotta dirt. Seems they have to rely on rain water.
Dingli Cliffs - nice photo op. Nothing else there.
Rabat - St. Cataldus catacombs, probably smallest of all the catacombs in the area and free. Could be the reason we stop here.
Mdina - walled old city, very impressive. If you’ve been to Dubrovnik it is much smaller.
Mosta - Sanctuary Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady, beautiful domed church with a WWII story.
Lunch - which was so much better than I expected. Pasta, pork chop with potatoes and Maltese specialty called imqaret, chopped dates in fried dough.
Ta’Qali craft village - filigree, pottery, and glass shops.
All in all a very lovely, unrushed day. I was quite surprised.

Malta Themed Tours.com - An early evening tour where the guide takes on the personality of a historic person who lived in Malta. Ours was the Sinful Secrets of Valletta: Blood, Booty and Courtesans. It was so much fun. The guide really got into character and made history come alive. I have to admit I love a themed tour. The guide did not drone on and on, he was great. Answered every question, even sent us info related to his character and our questions the next day.

We did see St John’s Co-Cathedral with the audio guide (which luckily was available in Italian which the cousins understand). We did not pre-book and waited about 20 minutes in line. Worth it for the Caravaggio alone, but the church is also quite impressive.

We were not able to get to the Hypogeum cause of the late booking.

Gozo - I know people rave about it, but for us it was ‘meh’. We took the fast ferry from Valletta then decided to do the HOHO bus because we didn’t want to be taking Ubers or public transport. Anyway, it worked out fine. They said every 45 minutes and they were very punctual. Gozo is very beige. Very beige. The buildings, the scenery, the ground (not much, if any grass), the beaches, very boring. If you are into scuba diving it is a paradise. But otherwise, you can miss it.

Birgu / Vittoriosa - lovely town across the harbor from Valletta. We took the €3 gondola each way. Went to the Inquisitor’s Palace and this was a highlight to understanding how Malta was much more ‘kind’ then other countries and their inquisitions.
We also stopped at the Norman House. Typical Maltese home open to the public. The owner gives a short tour, answers questions, donation.
We were fortunate to be there during the Candle Festival. The entire area was lit up with small glass enclosed candles, real flames, and people opened their doors for a peek inside, only lit up with candles. Also, all the churches were open.

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4807 posts

Food - A combination of many other ethnic groups, nothing I can recommend. They do serve rabbit and horse meat. They did tell us their cows are mainly for milk since they do not have much grass for grazing. Pork is their main meat. They export tomatoes and potatoes, their main crops.

summary - The Maltese people are extremely nice and open. Their official language is English but all children also learn Maltese. It is a combination of Arabic, Italian, and French, but sounds Arabic. We can’t quite describe the culture because it is such a combination of all the peoples who settled there. Even though the Arabic influence is very visible, they are a Catholic island and the majority of people still attend Sunday Mass. The island is very clean.

Money - cards were accepted most places. But always have some cash on you. The €3 gondola was cash only for example. It was not expensive by US standards. Very affordable, museums and food.

I have been wanting to visit Malta for a long time and happy we got to go. I didn’t do too much research since we were limited with our non-English speakers. And no, we couldn’t separate for various reasons. Would it have been a different trip if it was just my husband and I, most definitely. Did we have fun, most definitely.
Coincidentally, we are booked on a Celebrity cruise next September which stops in Valletta. I am already thinking about what we missed and need to see.

Posted by
3840 posts

Commending you for turning over the planning to someone else! Not sure I can do that…..
Glad you enjoyed your brief trip to Malta!

Posted by
1214 posts

Well the timing of your post could not have been more perfect. Just this weekend, my friends and I decided we wanted to see Sicily and Malta after our RS Turkey tour next year. Thanks for your insight!

Posted by
4807 posts

Yes Tammy, it was difficult but I survived, barely, lol.
Claudette, Definitely stay in Valletta, this is where all the action is and the bus station.
Avi, you crack me up with your subtle whit.

Posted by
1542 posts

Barbara, this is a wonderful report of your short last minute trip to Malta. I loved how you organized the report with appropriate headings and you write like you speak - really bringing us readers in with your vivid picture of the area.

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4807 posts

Oh, one important piece of advice I forgot -
Malta uses the same electricity as England, so bring a 3 prong adapter.

Posted by
5 posts

Thanks for the insights. We will be in Malta for almost 2 weeks next June (I am into slow travel). We plan on staying in Valetta 5 nights, Mdina/Rabat 5 nights. One operator suggested that we spend the other 3 nights in Gozo, without a car at the Kempenski. I was skeptical; I dislike being trapped at a resort with nothing/not much within walking. Do you know if the Gozo HOHO goes to/near this resort? From your description, we might try a beach resort within walking to a town on the main island instead and just do the day trip to Gozo. Community, let me know if you have suggestions!

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4807 posts

I have my HOHO map and these are the stops - FYI, we took the green bus (Gozohighspeed.com) which was a combo ticket with the ferry from Valletta. The red bus, (city-sightseeing.com) might have better stops.

Mgarr Harbour
Mixta Cave
Ramla
Ġggantija Temples & Ta’ Kola Windmill
Sabina Creativity Centre
Marsalforn Bay (Salt Pans)
Victoria Bus Station
Ta’Pinu Sanctuary
Ta’Dbieġi Crafts Village
Azure Window (Dwejra)
Fontana
Xiendi Bay
Victoria Bus Station
Xewkija Square
Mġarr Harbour

We only stopped at Victoria to see the cathedral and grab a sandwich and Ta’Pinu Sanctuary. Here the bus driver waits for about 15 minutes to see the church. There isn’t anything else there. Most of the stops are for swimming and diving. The craft villages were just very expensive stores and not too many.
Personally, I was not thrilled with Gozo, very spread out and very beige.
I don’t know if your hotel is on this route or the red bus.

Posted by
6083 posts

Sounds like a great getaway! What a treat to be able to "pop over" on short notice from Croatia.

Glad you enjoyed the trip, if not the accommodation ;-)

Posted by
7413 posts

I've got to respectfully disagree with some (perhaps a lot) of what's posted above. Tastes vary, as will individual experiences. That said...

We absolutely LOVED Gozo. We were in Malta/Gozo for about 2 weeks, spent out last four nights on Gozo, could have easily stayed longer, and Gozo was one of the highlights of our trip (we loved Malta, too). So for us, any characterizations of Gozo as "meh" and bland did not align with our experience, at all. Far from it - we thought Gozo was absolutely spectacular. Here are a few photos.

Now, we had a car, and made good use of it, to get around to all of both Malta and Gozo. If you're limited to just what's in walking distance of HOHO buses, you'll be among the cruise ship day-trippers, and you're not going to get out to a lot of the good stuff -- same as at any other popular destination. We found having a car on both Malta and Gozo to be extremely useful (having a car in Valetta itself was worse than useless, but to get outta town, where so much of the good stuff is, it was critical).

I'll add that the SCUBA diving from Gozo was just OK, not awesome (we are spoiled) but it was interesting enough to keep us happy for an afternoon (between the weird giant jellyfish which were plentiful and everywhere, to the impressive underwater topography, with gigantic collapsed granite arches and blocks, all fun to swim through). One day of diving was enough, since there was LOTS of jaw-dropping, eye-candy terrain topside, though admittedly some of it required a bit of walking across rocky terrain to reach (also true of a lot of amazing places on Malta). All well worth some time on any trip to Malta IMHO, don't skip Gozo! YMMV.

Posted by
4807 posts

I’m happy you loved Gozo David, but Tina states she won’t have a car, and didn’t want to be trapped at a resort. From what we saw, most resorts were kinda out there on their own. Also, no mention of scuba diving or swimming. We also did not have a car and did not want to go swimming. Having a car anywhere gives you a much different experience.

Also, since she has an option to stay at a resort within walking and on the main island, I believe it would be a better choice. It would be for us.

Posted by
5706 posts

I thought I had already replied, but apparently only on my head. So, thanks for writing this up, with all your details! Malta appeals to me but it keeps getting shoved down the list. This reminds me to move it back up.

Posted by
10722 posts

Both on Malta and on Gozo it does help if you are willing to use Public Transport- https://www.publictransport.com.mt/visiting-malta/

It's a shame that it is all now modern buses, not the deeply characterful older buses with their prayer cards and rosary beads, but the EU required the system to modernise, for accessibility and climate reasons.

That is how very many locals get about, and also (for instance) the Brits (and probably other nationalities) who go out to Malta in the winter for many weeks at a time. They neither rent cars or stay on resort all the time. The Hop on Hop Off Bus is not the only way to get around without a car. In fact it wasn't even an option for me when I docked at Malta Freeport at Marsaxlokk as opposed to in Valetta.

Personally I doubt whether many Cruise ship passengers would get as far as Gozo to use the HoHo bus there- there is just far too much else on Malta (indeed just in Valletta) to explore in a day's cruise call.