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Quebec City, Canada Trip Report /Part 1

June 2024/highlights/Part 1
Thursday:
Ile d’Orleans. Quaint island w/ adorable little villages, each named for a saint. Drove past vineyards, St. Lawrence in view, churches, strawberry fields.
This is great guide to follow: Best Spots on a Tour of Île d'Orléans | Visit Québec City (quebec-cite.com)
Breakfast at La Maison Smith in Ste Petronille (later learned is chain and enjoyed in Old Quebec too!). Lovely older woman and middle aged daughter chatted w/ . People were very friendly and spoke English. I used my google translate to make friends (“I don’t understand one word you’re saying but I love the hearing your French” is a good ice breaker!)
Parked at Chocolaterie and walked along “Pomenade Horatio-Walker” named for painter who painted rural Canadian scenes and lived here summers. From this view, we got our first glimpse at Old Quebec across the river, sitting up on a hill. We could see the Montmorency Falls across the bridge too.
Back to chocolate shop for treat.
Next stop: Ste. Laurant. Julia had scoped out a cute spot to buy jams. ADORABLE building. I taped the sing song French that was being spoken. She and Ron picked out jams to take home. Great view in the chairs right outside the store. Confiturerie Tigidou - Île d'Orléans : Île d'Orléans (iledorleans.com)
We drove to the Maritime Park but it really was more for people really interested in the history of wooden ship building. The girl at the booth told me to continue back on main road and park at the church for great views. We parked at Coeu de Jesus Church and soaked in the views.
Strawberries: YUM> Stopped at a market and enjoyed some berries while sitting at picnic tables with gorgeous views. EVERYONE was selling strawberries!
We drove through Ste. Jean: all the red roofs and rows of cute houses in the village. The gardens that we would have stopped at were not open til the next week so we missed them.
Seigneurie - Grands Jardins (seigneurieiledorleans.com)
The Observation Tower at the tip of the island in St. Francois is wonderful. It is an “old school” tower---you climb the wooden stairs to the top. SPECTACULAR panoramic views all around w/ placard at top pointing everything out for you. We saw the archipelago islands, and the St. Lawrence River Estuary—where the fresh and salt waters mix (marked by the red buoys), another direction was views of fields and fields of strawberries, and the view behind you is a large farm w/ its barn and silo overlooking the river. STUNNING.
From here, we did quick back track to another one of Julia’s picks, Fromagerie Ferme Audet (Fromagerie Ferme Audet - Île d'Orléans : Île d'Orléans (iledorleans.com), the “home headquarters” of a cheese and ice cream shop made w/ goat milk. It’s a lovely old home with a room for cheese tasting (we bought some!) and then a room to taste the homemade soft serve ice cream. We sat in the beautiful back garden meeting the goats and chickens enjoying the ice cream.
Ron stopped to get some local beer at the micro brewery in St. Famille ( I got him a tee shirt) Microbrasserie de l'Île d'Orléans - Pub Le Mitan | Visit Québec City (quebec-cite.com)
It was a wonderful day. We had perfect weather and 0 crowds.

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We came “home” stopping at the IGA in the town way up on the hill behind us. The neighborhood/homes much nicer up there. We came home to regroup before heading into Old Quebec for dinner. By chance, I noticed le Chic Shack on line as a fun burger place w/ homemade milkshakes so we went there. It turned out to be perfect spot for outdoor eating since it was literally across from the famous hotel that looks like a big castle/fortress that is on the old Quebec logos everything (Chateau Frontenac).
Contact - Le Chic Shack the poutine was not great, but the rest was fine. We strolled along Dudderin Terrace. This is perfect spot to people watch, view boats on St. Lawrence, look over at town of Levis. We could see the bridge to il d Orleans from here. Lots of people out enjoying the night, street performers etc. Chris wanted to walk up to the Citadel. It was a LONG walk but nice since all along boardwalk w/ steps that were not too steep along the way. I felt fabulous walking-no foot pain and dropping 17 lbs and my time at the Y has helped). We ended up at the Plains of Abraham site and saw a pretty sun set (later here) before walking past the Parliament Building all lit up and Tourny fountain right across from it. Explore Old Québec's Parliament Hill Area | Visit Québec City (quebec-cite.com)
We all slept well tonight!

Friday
Place Royale | Visit Québec City (quebec-cite.com)
We slept in a bit and headed to Quebec’s lower town. Parked and walked past large protest of city workers. Made our way to lower Quebec. Lots of cute shops. It definitely has a European feel to it. Rue to Petit Champlain, Umbrella Ally, a side street w/ gorgeous views of Chateau Frontenac towering up in the background (found by Chris). We walked down down down to Place Royale (Royal Plaza) which was a beautiful quaint square that marks where Champlain founded the city of Quebec in 1608. We enjoyed a drink and treat at the Quebec location of La Maison Smith (best Earl Grey tea of my life, served w/ frothed milk and so yummy. I later found out it’s the 2 pumps of sugary vanilla that does it). The staff here were young and so nice. (my google translate broke the ice “I’m sorry that I speak no French. I wanted to take it in high school, but my Dad made me take Spanish!”) The Notre Dame de Victoires Church is right here. We made a visit. I lit a candle for Tom Martin’s mom whose funeral is today and we are missing. I overheard a tour guide telling a group that this is the church used in the film “Catch Me if You Can” to represent being in France. Of course, when we got back to CT we had to watch it and it was very neat to see the church on film!
Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (church) - Religious Sites | Activities and Attractions | Visit Québec City (quebec-cite.com)

We walked back up to the upper area and visited the “other” Notre Dame . Basilique Notre-Dame de Québec (notre-dame-de-quebec.org)
The church has a “holy door” which was open because of the church’s 350th anniversary. There was also a great film describing the life of Ste. Francois de Laval who was first Bishop here, coming from France at age 36. Fascinating story of him developing parishes here and traveling back and forth to France through the years to convince the King of giving him money to extend the church in Canada.
Great shop right outside church where I found great “beachy” items I’ve been looking for. It’s called the 3 poules (3 hens). We later noticed they have a store on Orleans too!
We came home to refresh and then headed back into Quebec for dinner. We got an outdoor seat at Sapristi Bistro Bar on Rue Ste Jean. LOTS of people out and about on the street. I had a fabulous pasta w/ pesto and pine nuts. Saint-Jean Street | Sapristi
We walked around this street after dinner. Lots of street music (girl violinist). Finished up w/ ice cream for Ron and the kids and back home.
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Saturday
We headed to Beaupre to visit the Cathedral of St. Anne of Beaupre. Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré Sanctuary: Place of devotion and history – Sanctuaire Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré (sanctuairesainteanne.org) It is an absolutely gorgeous chuch erected in memory of Mary’s mother, St Anne. There is a relic of St. Anne there as well. We walked around the church and its grounds for a while.
From there we went on to Ste Anne Canyon The Canyon : Canyon Sainte-Anne

This was a highlight for me. A beautiful walk over bridges (some suspended!) that gave stunning views of waterfalls and nature. HIGHLY recommend. We were there for nearly 90 minutes I’d guess. Again, it was a joy to do all this walking w/ no issues at all. Loved it.
We popped home so Julia could change and headed back to Ile d Orleans to see the Vineyard and do some wine (and pizza!) tasting. Great set up. Ste-Pétronille Vineyard – A family affair (vs-p.ca) We did a wine tasting w/ 4 little jars of their different wines and ordered a couple of pizzas cooked right there. We sat outside w/ great view of vineyards. After we walked down as far as we could go (and chatted w/ some Spanish-speaking farm hands). Lovely outing. We went back to visit the goats (and have an ice cream) and Ron got some beer to go from the brewery.

After leaving Orleans, we drove up to the upper parking area for Montmorency Falls park. Parc de la Chute-Montmorency | Visit Québec City (quebec-cite.com) It was nearing closing time but, once in, we were fine. We enjoyed the views from the upper bridge (which we had seen from the road this week w/ people standing on it). It is beautiful but, to be honest, I liked the Canyon Falls the other day better since surrounded by nature (vs highways). But, still, it was lovely. We drove down to bottom area and walked all around there. From here, you could actually stand right below the falls. Reminded me of trip to Niagara Falls.

We came home and then headed into Quebec. We ate at a so=so restaurant in the lower city. I would not recommend. We did sit outside which was nice, but the guy at the next table was very loud and talked non stop (in French!) and the menu was not great. We walked down by the boats after and stumbled upon a free outdoor orchestra concert where we sat and listened to a few songs. We were in search of the silos that are lit like Aurora Borealis. We saw them (we think) but found them underwhelming. Walked a bit more and headed home.
Sunday
Rainy rainy day today. So glad we had great weather ahead of time. I think if the weather was nice today, we could have enjoyed walking/bike riding (we brought bikes but never used) on the trail that is right by our house and goes to Montmorency Falls. I think our 3 full days was a good amount of time. 4 days (w no rain) would have been great too.

Ron, Julia and I went to mass right up the hill near the IGA . It was all in French. Ron commented that the singing was “way better than any English singing at church”. Hee hee.
Julia had scoped out a tea place back on Orleans and, since it was raining, we decided to try it. It had just opened and was in an old house/barn with lots of antiques. It was oozing w/ Frenchness (the young woman who owned in had a scarf on and beret!). Julia made friends w/ the fat cat lounging on one of the couches. I can’t really imagine how this business could really make a go of it, but it was fun. It is affiliated w/ the jam place we went to on our first day on Orleans.
We decided we’d go back into Old Quebec. It was really raining now. We parked in the lower part of the city. Chris and Ron went to the Museum of Civilization (Musée de la civilisation - Quebec City | MCQ) they said it was an ok thing for a rainy day. Julia and I headed back to Place Royale to poke around gift shops. The rain was so bad. We ended up back to Masion Smith for tea (and to share their amazing Key Lime pie).
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Part 4 (final)
We had all decided we’d get a soda at the Chateau Frontenac to see the inside. So Julia and I made our way up the stairs in the pouring rain to upper town and to the hotel. WAY too crowded. Yes, pretty lobby. But nothing so spectacular. Ron and Chris made their way up. We decided to stop for warm meal. We found a cozy spot on our way up the stairs leaving the area near Umbrella Alley . Pub de Borgia (12 Rue de Petite Champain). We had nachos, wings and cheese and bread. YUM.
Chris had told us about a chain of dessert shops in Canada called Beaver Tails (“Queues de Castor”) that his friend Alex had raved about for their “fried dough” type desserts. We decided to stop at the one he found in Quebec on our way back to the car. Fun.
Back home to pack up and clean up for early start tomorrow…rainy most of drive home. We stopped in St. Johnsbury VT at cute place we noticed on Yelp called The Kitchen Counter Café that was a cute place for lunch. I’d recommend it. Homemade milkshakes, cookies etc….omelets were great. The town was very cute too…… Kitchen Counter Cafe (experiencethenortheastkingdom.com)
Got home early evening. Was so nice to get back while still light out etc….so much easier to unload vs camping days! We all agreed it was a great trip, great place, people etc. Great balance for “city” and “nature”. Plus we missed a heat wave in CT while we were gone!

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Good report and format so that it stays together after next week. Will make lots of notes as we are cruising to QCity in Sep 26.