Prague & London, October 2025

With supper done and back at my room, I unpacked, got settled and called dad to let everyone know I had arrived.

For Friday October 3, no big plans. The Újezd tram stop was right outside of my hotel and I jumped on trams 9, 15, 22, & 23 to get a lay of the land . The only thing scheduled for the day was a food tour with Prague Food Tour - https://prague-food-tour.com/ .

At 3pm I met up with Leona and the nine other participants for the food tour. I know very little about Czech cuisine, but the best way to begin to learn about cultures is through the food. Leona was an excellent host and guide, taking us to four venues while explaining Czech cuisine and history. The first stop was at Café Imperial where I got to enjoy kulajda which is a dill soup with mushrooms and poached egg and svíčková. Stop 2 was at Local, the longest beer hall in Prague. We enjoyed the beer while we learned about the different ways that the beer is poured along with sampling Prague ham, steak tartar, pickled cheese and a shot of becherovka. The third stop was at Kolacherie sampling koláč. The final stop was Myšák sampling pasties and sweet dishes such as buchticčky se šodó which is a sweet dough bun with vanilla cream. Waddled back to my hotel room around 8pm.

Saturday October 4, I headed to Prague Castle. My interest was to go and visit the locations of the 1618 Defenestration of Prague. Of course before finding the locations of the Defenestration I found a forged iron gate and really got distracted. I probably spent a good 30 minutes studying the construction details and taking detailed notes & photos, then I continued my mission finding the site of the Defenestration.

I have a tradition of bringing home coffee cups from the cities I visit, and wandering about all I encountered was the schlocky stuff in tourist shops made overseas. Look, I'm not going to Prague or any other city to buy junk souvenirs made in China. Sitting back in my room, I fired up Google to look for a local pottery shop, where I could find a cup. I came across Kafe & Hrnky. Here was a café that had a ceramics studio… or is it a ceramics studio with a café? They offered the opportunity to make a reservation to go and paint your own ceramics. Why not? I made a reservation.

Sunday morning October 5, showed up at Kafe & Hrnky, selected a coffee cup and sat down to paint my cheesy mug with a couple Czech flags, Praha and 2025. I paint ceramics like a 3rd grader. Afterwards, I just walked through the city. I strolled across Charles Bridge, through Old Town and found myself at the Steel Art Museum. OMG! I was overstimulated. It's a contemporary popular culture art museum featuring statues built from steel bits and pieces, that encourages visitors to interact with the exhibits. To get up close, touch, lay across, sit in, or sit on.

Monday I headed to Kutna Hora to visit the Sedlec Ossuary Church. My words fail me and I have a hard time expressing my feelings about visiting the church. I stood there looking right at a skull knowing this was a person with their own life and history. I couldn't help but to think of my own self, put back together with rods and screws. Going to the church took a bit out of me and I was done for the day. I headed back to Prague.

Tuesday morning I headed off to visit Bílá Hora, or the White Mountain Battlefield. White Mountain was the one major battle of the Bohemian revolt two years after the Defenestration and an early battle of the Thirty Years' War. Sadly not much of the battlefield left for such a pivotal event. Just a small field with a rock cairn, and no informational or interpretive signage. After Bílá Hora headed back to Kafe & Hrnky to pick up my cup. For 100czk they expedited the firing, best $24 spent on a souvenir.

Stayed six nights at Hotel Roma in Malá Strana. This was perfect. I avoided the big tourist crowds but it was still lively. A good clean hotel, where I had a room that looked onto a courtyard and it had a fully operable window. Breakfast was included in my rate. The Újezd tram stops were right outside the hotel and several nearby restaurants. I ended up most often at Hell Smoke, a Mexican restaurant Cantina Újezd, and a Czech restaurant Pivnice U Svejku. Hell Smoke and Cantina were pretty awesome and both brought heat to the food, something that I miss dearly when visiting Europe. Food at Pivnice U Svejku was awesome, the staff made a solo traveler feel very welcome and right at home. Thus ended my time in Prague.

October 8 would be the start of my journey to London. It was to be an all day train journey from Prague to Brussels. Up at 4am, packed up and double checked everything. Checked-out at 5 and out at the tram stop for the ride to the train station. First train journey was EC178 “Berliner” and left Prague at 6:28 and arrived at Berlin hbf at 11:24. With an hour & thirty-three minute connection at Berlin I headed back to McDonald's for brunch - there's a theme here. The next train was ICE558 and departed Berlin at 12:57pm and arrived at Köln hbf late about 5:40pm with about a 15 minute connection. The final journey was ICE12 and departed Köln late around 6pm finally pulling into Brussels Midi late near 8:00pm. Thirteen and a half hours, 680 miles. Glad I paid for first class, and reserved the single seats with plenty of room for my leg. Beautiful relaxed journey. Checked into Brussels Midi Pullman just after 8pm. Didn't feel like wandering far from the train station at that time of night, why not stick with the theme of train station fast food and found Quick. Huh, the Belgian answer to McDonald's.

For October 9, I was booked on the 12:57 Eurostar. Checked out of Pullman about 11:45 and walked thirty yards to the Eurostar terminal. Breezed through security and border formalities in about 5 minutes and received my last passport stamp. Departed Brussels about 20 minutes late and arrived late in London.

Back in 2023 and 24, when I arrived in London I'd get a taxi to my hotel. I herded my luggage with a cane and a taxi was just easier. Not this time. I got myself to the Piccadilly line, switched to the Central line, got myself up out of St Paul's station and walked to Locke-at-Broken-Wharf & checked-in. Aahh I'm home!

Friday October 10, I made a return visit to Hampton Court Palace. There is a big conservation project going on. So of course man, things were different than when I visited about 10 years ago.

Saturday I took a break. Back in March 2022 I'd gone for some kart racing at TeamSport Docklands. Three months later was my accident. This day I was going back. I went in with every expectation they would not be able to accommodate me. It would be reasonable. I was welcomed by one of the managers, Jessie. We went out to the track to assess whether I could get into and out of the kart on my own. Whether I could operate the puddles, especially the break. She was satisfied that I could operate the kart safely. Went to the safety brief and then they let me loose on the track for two races. Yeah I sucked, and the lack of flex in my left knee, meant I was riding the break. But oh goodness it was exhilarating, I felt free. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyWhBSxiO9g

On Sunday I headed to the National Gallery. It's always amazing to see the actual paintings, that up to that moment you've only ever seen in books or as jpg or png files. One painting I definitely wanted to see was Coalbrookdale by Night by Philip James de Loutherbourg. So it was off to the Science Museum to finally see the actual painting that I've admired for years.

Monday October 13, I made a side trip to Oxford. I wanted to visit the Ashmolean, specifically I wanted to see “Powhatan's Mantle”.
https://www.ashmolean.org/powhatans-mantle
https://encyclopediavirginia.org/1151hpr-b3276dcbaeee972/
The collection also includes three mid-17th century oak Virginia native long bows - the oldest surviving bows from North America. Spent several hours at the museum, then walked back to the train station. This is where I found a quirk in GWR's app. Of course in the US the app does not work, but I'm in the UK. Even in the UK on cellular data I'd get the warning that “the app works better in the UK, use the website”. Logged onto train station wifi and the app worked fine. Oh well.

Tuesday the day before I leave for home. I made my pilgrimage to Neil's Yard Dairy near Borough Market. Mature Sparkenhoe Red Leicester, Doddington, Pevensey Blue and Sparkenhoe Blue… OMG I spent $100 on cheese :-o. I'm going to be nursing this stuff as long as I can. Afterwards headed over to Wild and Wooly yarn shop. Bought some yarn and a book, The Art of Knitwear Repair by Minttu Wikberg.

Wednesday I left LHR for IAD on UA919 - a 777 - and then on to RIC. No upgrade this time, but I got the wonderful & lovely “SSSS”, so I got extra love. Right now I'm sitting in the C7 United lounge at IAD and while I have a long layover, over the last four years my checked bag always gets loaded on an earlier flight and is always waiting for me when I get to RIC. Tonight it will beat me by five hours.

This was an enjoyable and successful trip. There's no question whether I can handle the physicality of travel and getting myself around. But one of my injuries was a TBI, and I've become rather self conscious about the presentation or impression I create of myself as I interact with people. And I'm sure I'm my own worst critic and no one notices anything, but it's a feeling that just sticks with me and I can't quite get past it.

And so this was my trip to Prague and London.

I'm currently on a transatlantic flight from Amsterdam to Detroit following 8 days in Prague, and I did 7 days in London in April! So, I read your report with great interest.

Of note, this is the first time that I have read "thawed some mice" in a trip report.

I like to get a coffee cup, too, when I travel. Every morning, I pull a cup out of the cabinet and get reminded of a prior trip and the joy of traveling. I also get one other thing -- a Christmas ornament. Putting up the tree is a happy seasonal activity, but also a happy reflection on past travels.

This was my first trip to Prague. I loved it. I hope to return to see more of it and Czechia in the next year or two.

The final paragraph of your report was a serious and vulnerable reflection. Thanks for sharing. It's awesome that you continue to put yourself out there and continue to do something that you obviously love. Best wishes for future travel!

VAP, outstanding! I enjoyed it.

What a nice and thoughtful report. Thank you for sharing.

I enjoyed your report. And glad you are traveling. I have read each one since your accident and it is wonderful to see the upward trajectory.

Of note, this is the first time that I have read "thawed some mice" in a trip report.

LOL :-)
We're both introverts and get along great. She's the perfect pet. I can set her up with an extra water bowl and feed her the morning I leave and she's good to go for the couple weeks I'm gone. This trip when I left she was just starting her blue phase and shed while I was gone. Abs yeah it's normal to have a bag of 50 frozen mice in the freezer.

And thank you. I'm glad that y'all enjoy my ramblings.

Of note, this is the first time that I have read "thawed some mice" in a trip report.

Ha ha, I admit that caught my eye as well! I do like snakes, but I'm not so sure I would relish feeding them. But she sounds like a wonderful pet, and that's so nice you don't have to worry about her while you're gone.

Thanks so much for the trip report ,VAP! I really enjoyed it. Did you ever find out why you were upgraded to first class? That never happens to me (sigh).