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Prague and Copenhagen in April

My friend and I try to travel each winter/spring together. This year was Prague and Copenhagen. Odd combo to be sure, it was based on available flights and timing as we were leaving directly after attending a wedding.

We departed IAD to CPH on a Monday night. We were already tired upon arriving at the airport as we had driven from NJ where the wedding had taken place the night before. IAD was chosen because we live in VA. Flight was on SAS and due to depart around 6:30pm. That's where the fun started . Our flight ended up being 3 hours delayed; another traveler advised this was due from the plane being delayed coming across the ocean to begin with, it was not related to the storms that were occuring. Finally get on the packed flight. Not sure what plane we were on, only that economy was extremely cramped with the seats ahead of you in your lap when reclined. Bumpy flight, only one meal service which I declined. Unhelpful flight attendants. Upon arrival, our Ryanair flight to PRG had already left (we had allowed a 2.5 hour layover). Since we weren't on one itinerary SAS would not help us at all, and were pretty rude about it. We ended up having to shell out $267 for a last minute flight on KLM. That was a wonderful flight--attentive flight crew, short flight yet we still had beverage service, comfy and relatively spacious seats. By the time we arrived to our hotel, we had been up over 36 hours. Needless to say, we crashed, hard.

Day 1: We woke up fairly refreshed. Stayed at Hotel Leon in Old Town. Huge, I mean huge, breakfast included. Met our guide, Filip, that we found from a guest on Rick's podcast (Prague Walker). Filip took us on a 3 hour tour of the Old Town and hit the highlights; Jewish Quarter, Main Square, Astronomical clock, a couple of historic churches, and exterior walk at Prague Castle, Charles Bridge. We saw them setting up Easter markets (that was a first for me) but unfortunately opening was the day we were leaving. Looked so cute though. Filip gave recommendations on where to eat, and when he dropped us off at a local cafeteria style restaurant, gave us great instruction on how the line and payment system would work there. That night we did a ghost tour that I found threw Viator. While entertaining, it wasn't scary enough for our taste. It was also a big group. Got to see some of the sites from earlier in the day but at twilight and night which is charming. Always worth paying a little extra for a personal guide IMHO. Weather was partly cloudy and low 50's.

Day 2: We braved train travel and took a regional train to Decin, Encountered some language barriers there but had a lovely stroll in their square and ate a pastry while we waited for the bus to Hrensko. Our end goal was hiking at Bohemian Switzerland, which we did up to Pravcicka Gate. Beautiful hike, beautiful views. It was clear blue skies and around 65F. Walked back to Hrensko from there to catch bus then train. So interesting to me that Hrensko was so German, but it is directly across from Germany at Elbe. Did some shopping when we got back to Prague at a cute 2nd hand store. Cleaned up, realized we were starving but too tired to walk anywhere so ate at the Italian restaurant next to the hotel, Kogo. Food was very good but at that point I'd probably have enjoyed a cardboard box.

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Continued...

Day 3: We decided to be unstructured this day with the only goals being making it to lunch at a restaurant I'd found in district 7- Holesovice and on to Strahov Monastery. Did our souvenir shopping, strolled through the Old Town, then figured out the metro to get to Holesovice. Felt very residential. Ate at The Eatery-one of the best meals I've had in years, and definitely the best in Prague. Seasonal menu, great service, modern space. Walked around the area a bit but didn't really find much to do outside of some shopping. Lots of restaurants though. Metro back then figured out the tram to the monastery. Walked around the monastery grounds, we did not go into the library (regret that now). Had a beer in the biergarten, then took some gorgeous photos from the higher elevation there. Walked all the way back to Old Town for evening classical concert in Mirror Chapel. Acoustics were great, the orchestra players and opera singer were amazing. Such a steal at $25 per ticket. Afterwords, we watched the sun set from the Charles Bridge then people watched for about an hour. Grabbed a wurst on rye bread from a stand at Main Square followed by gelato. Soaked up the beauty of Prague at night then back to pack up for travel the next day.

Day 4: Arrived in CPH on Norwegian Air. Another short but pleasant flight. Metro to town, walked to Hotel Kong Arthur for our one night stay. Very cute boutique hotel that has been modernized. Dropped off luggage as room was not ready then hit the road. Headed to city center, along with apparently a lot of the locals. Did not expect to see so many locals out and about but it was a gorgeous day. Clear blue skies, warm sun, cool air. Well, cool to us but not to some of the locals--was amused to see some sunbathing. I hadn't realized Copenhagen was such a bike culture. Did a canal tourist cruise which was very disappointing. They crammed us on, we were stuck on the inside aisle. Windows were dirty so we couldn't even see out for the majority of the tour. Worse was the MC was an American woman who clearly wished she was in the theater as she would break out in song under every bridge. She spoke confusingly in English, sounded like she was even worse in Dansk. Seemed like she was always a site behind in what she was describing. After that was over, we crossed over to Christianshavn for lunch at Cafe Wilder. Another winner of a meal! Since we felt like we hadn't seen much from the boat, we rented Lime bikes and took our own tour. Can't even tell you where we went, other than our stop at the Little Mermaid statue. Went through neighborhoods, around parks, just truly got the vibe of the town. Dropped the bikes off in front of Tivoli, giggled at the screams coming out of it, then headed in the National Museum to check out the Viking Sorceress exhibition. Really interesting interactive exhibition with a very robust Viking artifacts and information room at the end. Learned a lot that day! Sat at the canal with a bottle of prosecco with the locals and soaked up the last bit of sun of the day. Ended the day with a pizza and some wine in the hotel room.

Day 5: We had a little over half a day so after checking out and storing our bags, we headed back to city center. Got a breakfast at chain cafe but it was still very tasty. Souvenir shopped, then headed to the canal for Christiansbourg Palace. We opted for the Ruins and the Reception rooms. The ruins were incredible--the underground where the original foundation and support walls of the first castle are shown. Another great exhibition here about 3 witches and the witch hunts particularly in the 15th-17th centuries. We literally spent about 2 hours down there, and could have stayed longer. Reception rooms were beautiful, interesting to learn the the longetivity of the monarchical house in Denmark. Ate a hot dog and back to the airport for home. Another delay from SAS but only an hour this time.

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155 posts

Thanks for this report. Copenhagen looks like a neat place to visit. Did it still get dark in Copenhagen quite early in April? Or was everything well enough lit that it wasn't a concern?

Posted by
7325 posts

Since we weren't on one itinerary SAS would not help us at all, and
were pretty rude about it.

What did you expect? You bought a ticket to Copenhagen from SAS, they brought you to Copenhagen. What you do after that is not SAS' problem.

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@PlannerMom
We were not really out late, it was still twilight when we came back to the hotel. That said, it was also around 6:30pm and just getting dark. We felt safe the entire trip, both in Prague and Copenhagen. I even remarked while in CPH that the crime rate must be fairly low as bikes were not chained and baby buggies (and dogs) were left at store entrances without anyone monitoring them. I have no data to back that assessment up, just how we felt while we were there.

Posted by
32 posts

Great trip report! Made me miss Copenhagen so bad, and you’ve gotten me in the mind to check out some new places!

Might be a bit expensive for just two, but if anyones traveling with up to eight (I think?) and you want to see CPH from the water but this report has turned you off a canal tour, there are companies that will rent a little boat for an hour or two and show you how to get around the canals and you can bring snacks on board and they will sell you wine :) really nice experience.

Also, re bike theft, Danes are convinced that bike theft is rampant but they only lock the back wheel of the bike. An American once asked “why can’t they just pick it up by the back and drive it on the front wheel” and the Dane he was speaking to was like “well that would be suspicious” gotta love it

Posted by
2748 posts

Thanks for sharing. Sorry about the awful canal cruise, but also, LOL.

Posted by
7325 posts

I didn't expect anything from SAS. Except maybe some empathy.

I think empathy is only available if you fly business class, you have to check the fine print. 😀