Prague: Meet up with another couple who are close friends and stayed at the Marriott Hotel for another week. We hired Kamil Vondrous, a private guide noted in Rick's book for two half day guides through Prague who later in the week drove us to Chesky Krumlov 2.5 hours south of Prague. Kamil was an excellent guide and we enjoyed his company very much - very highly recommend him and believe he has the ability to guide a number of different individuals or groups of people. All of us were charmed by Prague and it's a very walkable neighborhoods despite it's size - Old Town, New Town, Castle, Jewish Quarter, Little Quarter up to their Eiffel Tower via the funicular. Recommended eats: Krcma, an Gothic cellar locals restaurant near Kinsky Palace, Kostecna 4 (Stare Mesto) recommended by Kamil - shared tables in the back quieter and check out the bathrooms. Late night dinner at U Golema (another pork knuclefeast) near the Jewish Museum; French restaurant Brasserie La Gare right across the street from the Marriott was very good and a pleasant change from Czeck cuisine; excellent lunch at a Czeck chain - Kolkovna walking back from Petrin Hill on Narodni, good pasta and roast goose; excellent dinner in the Ungelt courtyard called Indian Jewel outside on a warm evening on the terrace; delicious lunch outside the Castle past Golden Lane cross street into the left - believe it was the Lobkowicz Cafe.
Posted by
OP
Seattle, WA, USA
12 posts
Continuation of Prague 2012
Kamil gave us several other excellent recommendations but we just didn't have enough calorie time... Try the often found street pastry - rolled and toasted dough on a stick sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar; visit the famous teahouse at Lucerna Pasaz, a once magnificent shopping passageway built by Vaclav Havel's architect grandfather which is the floor above the upsidedown horse, (those of you who shop and want to get their VAT back via Blue Global, their office is on the 2nd floor just outside this passage area near the Metro station but read up about the rules first), look for small "farmer's/merchants" seasonal markets in the city besides Havel's - there was one next to our hotel for two days - lots of fresh fruits, roasted meats and seafoods, handmade items, juices, music, etc. Note to keep change on hand for bathrooms everywhere (in Europe)-rarely free but they are well kept and keep people employed! Even Starbucks, KFC, etc charge for their restrooms but nicer restaurants don't.
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OP
Seattle, WA, USA
12 posts
Later in the week our guide, Kamil, drove us this lovely 16th c UNESCO town about 2.5 hours drive south of Prague. It's also very accessible by bus as explained in Rick's book - comments later. Castle tour very good and walking about the town and along the Vltava River on the non-town side wonderful and relaxing. We stayed for 4 nights because my husband went fly fishing with a guide in the nearby countryside for two full days. He had a grand time and raved about the beautiful countryside and locals that he met both on and off the river. I enjoyed taking numerous walks both inside this very small town and outside
where the locals live - staying inside the old town can easily make you feel "cramped." Warm evenings and early mornings were most magical for wanderings - day tourists gone and fun to wake up with the locals. Lots of canoeing and rafting options on the Vltava just under the Castle walls and be prepared to get wet - we saw several unplanned dips! We stayed at Rick's recommendation of the Castle View Apts-excellent, very helpful staff, spacious with a small kitchen (microwave, toaster, coffee maker, mini-frig)/living room which was just a bit noisy in the late afternoons-early evenings because it faced the very popular restaurant Krcma v Satlavske - reservations were necessary due to its popularity; food good and our last roasted pork knuckle for 2. The apartment stay comes with an ample breakfast buffet at a hotel seconds away.
Posted by
OP
Seattle, WA, USA
12 posts
Other meals: Restaurant u Dobraka, twice - charming location and atmosphere, very charming waitress (grumpy chef/owner) but the food was just okay. Simple menu and it seems the chef uses the same marinade/sauce on both fish and meats- tastes like the base of it is a Knorr soup mix. But this tiny place (looks like it could of been a medieval blacksmith shop) is very popular with locals and tourists. They had a local band performing American bluegrass music sung in Czeck on our first visit! Rybarska Restaurant: Fisherman's next to the river for lunch which I can't recommend nice but the waiter and cook were very nice. Large Czeck styled food restaurant in the town square right next to the Chinese restaurant for lunch that was very good and we would of returned but it was booked two nights in a row. I had to try the Chinese restaurant needingsoy flavored foods and rice - in a pinch it did the job but that was all however what an incredible migration story they must have... They do have an excellent view of the city square from their second floor level. Lovely bus ride back to Prague: bought tickets at the TI on the main square, recommend in advance of date; bus station short walk and relatively easily found outside of the west bridge/entrance to the old town; beautiful bus, relaxing ride to see the lovely scenery, charming hostess more like a flight attendant offering complimentary coffee and snacks at a charge, spoke excellent English - two stops b/4 Prague, can't recall the name of the railway station but cross the street, down to Metro underground connections.