Easy flight with LH from Frankfurt to Porto and then took a taxi to my Albergue, Lost Inn. Pouring rain, so after check-in, put on my Altus Poncho and went sightseeing at the Cathedral and the cool train station, San Benito. Found an Indian place for dinner, which turned out to be not very good, but what the heck. Went back to my Albergue, which was located right under the cathedral and got my stuff ready to walk the next morning. Chatted with a few people. The Albergue was quite nice, with pod beds/curtains, lights, plug and locker under the bed, in a female dorm.
Set off the next morning in the rain, after a cup of coffee from their automat and one of my croissant snacks. Hoped to find something open soon, but it was a few km before I found a cafe. The walk from the cathedral down to the river at dawn was pretty and then along the river with lots of birds. Found a cafe and had an excellent pastry and coffee. Continued down to the Ocean and eventually Matosinhos, my stop for the night. The scenery was beautiful and Matosinhos is a nice little small town. Ran into another woman who was looking for the same guest house - Fish Tail Sea House. I had a private room booked there. We went exploring for lunch and dinner options. It is a nice place that also has dorms with the pod beds and curtains. This was my 2nd time to stay here.
Had coffee and some breakfast and we left at dawn. The coast was gorgeous. She walked faster than me and about 2 hours into the walk, we separated as she had farther to walk that day then me. (we met up again in Padron and walked into Santiago together) Continuing down the coast past photogenic fishing villages until getting to Vila Cha where I stayed in a municipal. These aren't usually my favorite places to stay, but this one was quite nice, with linens and towels, huge kitchen and a restaurant across the street.
Continued down the coast, which is all board walks and very easy to walk on. Took lots of photos of waves crashing on the rocks, and the Callia lillies which seemed to grow wild everywhere. At Vila do Conde, it was time for me to switch to the central route. The ancient Roman aquaduct was really cool and it pretty much goes all through the city. After wandering around the city all day and having some lunch, decided to take a taxi to my next town, Sao Pedro de Rates. Got out and continued walking through town to my albergue, which was a donativo. These kind of places are run by volunteers and you donate what you can for the night. The dorm was pretty crowded, but the shower facilities were ok. Nice common room and a nice little restaurant across the street for dinner and breakfast. It was pretty cold that night, so happy to have my sleeping bag. Pouring rain the next morning, so after breakfast, headed to Barcelos.
The hills were starting to get to me with some breathing problems, so about 5km outside of Barecelos, took another taxi into town. Gave me time to explore and Barcelos was really beautiful. I could see staying there for a day or two just sightseeing. Found my guesthouse, Casa da Rosa and had a twin room all to myself for about 13€. Nice snack bar next door for dinner and early breakfast. After a good nights sleep, had to walk about 900m. to get back on the Camino.
Pretty easy and short walk (12km) today to the town of Arborim and a beautiful, private albergue, Casa de Santiago, where again, had a single bed in a twin room for 25€. The hosts were fantastic and went out and got us pizzas as everything was closed in town. The house was so beautiful, it was surprising they opened it up to pilgrims like us.
Had another short walk today, starting at sunrise, after breakfast. Only 12km to Casa Fernanda, one of the most famous albergues on the Portuguese Camino. The hostess and host make a fabulous dinner and breakfast for all of us and are so funny and friendly. Single beds for everyone. Location is in Vitorino.
(to be cont.)