Portugal for the Second time Oct 2-18, 2023

After the tile museum, I headed to the river for a water taxi/ferry to Cacilhas for an early dinner. It was nice that the Viagem card worked on this ferry and also the funiculars, metro and busses. I didn’t ride any trams on this trip as it turns out. Tram #28 was a load of fun during the 2015 trip and so, I planned on trying the trams in Porto during my short stay there. Alas, it didn’t work out because it was just too rainy and my timing was off in Porto to take the trams.

EDIT: actually the Viagem card did not work on the funicular. You need a separate ticket

So, I arrive in Cacilhas and wander around this pretty low key fishing village dropping into a sweet shop selling baby clothes and layette items. Since my niece just gave birth to her second child, I had to get something cute and cuddly. I made arrangements with the very nice shop lady to engrave the baby’s name on a blankee. She assured me if I came back to her shop before closing at 5 pm, the blanket would be ready. I’m walking around trying to find a restaurant that looks good and finally decide on a place (Solar Beira) about four doors down from the baby shop, at an outside table. I order a nice small bottle of wine and cataplana (seafood stew). The seafood was so fresh and sauce very tasty and my white wine was perfect with the stew.

Well, I guess time got away from me and I’m not finished with the meal - I look at my watch and see it is 15 minutes before the baby shop closes. I run inside the restaurant and try to explain that I have to leave for just 5 minutes to pick up my baby blanket just down the street but to please just hold my delicious cataplana and wine and I would be right back. They looked at me like “is this a crazy American tourist, or what”? I pay the bill and said I would be right back. Let me just say, I have never done anything so silly but it worked out very well. It may have been a combination of the wine and the heat of the day. The restaurant staff was so nice. They kept the food warm, the wine cold, and gave me a new set of tableware. Consequently, I tipped them well for the extra effort for this crazy tourist.

I can’t stress enough about how hot it was in Lisbon and later Coimbra (10/4). It was so bad I had to devote some time to purchase a cool dress and a couple of very light weight tops. Two hours later, I enjoy a much deserved lunch of grilled sea bream at Taverna Alfacinha. It’s nice to eat here for lunch because there are not that many tables and dinner seating gets filled fast.

After lunch I head to the MAAT (Museum of Art Architecture and Technology) located near Belem. This museum is fairly new and quite interesting if you like repurposed buildings and quirky art. The main building is an old power house converted to showcase some fabulous huge art pieces. One piece that stood out for me is called “Valkyrie Octopus” - a structure made of fabric, felt, steel mesh, LED lights and cotton crochet. Just the walk up to this museum is an architectural masterpiece and I highly recommend this new museum in Lisbon. The Monument to the Discoverers wasn’t very far from the MAAT so I picked up a cool refreshing popsicle and made my way there. I love this part of Lisbon honoring some of the explorers of the world but it was time to head back to the guesthouse and melt into bed.

This day (10/5) was devoted to a tour by Lisbon Riders to Fatima, Obidos and Nazare. Our guide, Tanya, is a tiny little thing packing a big punch. I think she really loves her job because she was so animated talking about the huge waves and surfing scene of Nazare. Our small group of about 12 appreciated her concern at every stop of where the restrooms were and she gave tips on the good restaurants. Unfortunately, due to it being a holiday, some of us were quite challenged to find good restaurants open in Nazare. We were up on the hill in Sitio, so maybe it was different down by the beach.

Fatima was interesting what with the walking on the knees up to the church and all but, since I’m not particularly religious, I couldn’t understand the need to do that. Inside the church was beautiful and the tombs of the three children who experienced the Virgin Mary were lovely.

In Obidos, Tanya pointed out the ancient wall and where we could walk around the town if we chose to and after we tasted some ginjinha in a chocolate cup, she just let us loose to explore for about an hour or so. Obidos is a cute town with beautiful flower shaded back roads and streets but it is pretty touristic. I’m simply amazed at how some vehicles navigate the narrow streets in Portugal though. Obidos has its share of narrow roads and pathways.

This day (10/6) was devoted to a tour to Sintra with Peña Palace, Quinta da Regaleria (Initiation Well, grotto, tunnels) and a short stop in Cascais. Carlos, our guide booked through GetYourGuide, was good about letting us know ahead of time how much walking we would be doing - I’ll admit though, it was a lot at times. Many Forum members caution that the inside of Peña Palace is skip-able, and I might agree with that if you are on your own, but since I was on a tour and had a guide, it made a difference, I believe. Of course, the outside of the palace with all the wonderful picturesque towers and spires, just is not equaled anywhere I’ve been (well, maybe Antoni Gaudi’s creations at Park Guell come close). The Peña Palace grounds are stunning with all the gorgeous bougainvillea, wisteria and palm trees - it’s a wonder to behold. After the palace, we walked to the Quinta da Regaleria and later explored the labarinth of tunnels, grottos and the Initiation Well. This was a very nice experience and I much appreciated the cool climate after battling the heat for days on end.

This day (10/7) was basically for meeting up with a RS Forum friend, Kathryn, for lunch and walkabout in Cascais with some beach time. It can be hit or miss when planning meetups with people you don’t really know but I’ve found the Forum members I’ve met over the last 10-15 years have been very enjoyable experiences. Kathryn is a treasure trove of information for anybody interested in Portugal and I am grateful for her candid opinions on Portugal in general and also for anyone interested in moving to Portugal. I’ve been thinking about relocating for some years now.

Kathryn and I enjoyed our meal at a pretty place near the center of Cascais called Maritimo. It was a good choice both for atmosphere and the dishes they served were delicious. After lunch, we said our goodbyes, I took some beach time, and then hopped on the train back to Lisbon. Before heading to the guesthouse and all those stairs, I found the shop for conservas (tinned fish). It is the RS recommended place called Loja das Conservas. I can admit that I might have gone a little overboard on the tinned fish as it weighed my personal item way down. Oh, there’s a TSA story about the tinned fish to be told later.

This being the morning of the Lisbon Marathon (10/8) I planned to head to Coimbra. So, after a good breakfast at my guesthouse, I made it slowly down the stairs and off to the Oriente train station via the metro for the approx 2 hour trip to Coimbra. Goodbye Lisbon, until next time.

Coimbra (10/8-10/13):
Accommodations:
Pharmacia Guesthouse, at Rua Ferreira Borges, is a unique guesthouse converted from a pharmacy located on the main street in Coimbra. The reception area and lobby are lined with old medicine bottles and other devices that a pharmacist might use back in the early 1900’s. It didn’t provide a breakfast, but there was a coffee/tea station on the ground floor which included a microwave and refrigerator for guest use. Fresh fruit and small prepackaged pastries were also on offer. I chose to have coffee and breakfast at local cafes. I sure appreciated the elevator, rooftop courtyard, air conditioning and the bed was very comfortable.

Meals that stand out:
Cafe con leite and pasteis de nata at Biquinha near train station - I have a story
Breakfast bowl of savory chicken, cabbage, carrots, avocado, mango & poached egg on rice at OCroisant
Octopus rice and side roasted veggies at Solar Bacalhau
Seafood ravioli and bruschetta at Il Tartufo

What I Did:
Being insecure about how far away my guesthouse was, I took a ridiculously short Uber ride from the train station. (10/8). I could have walked. Upon arrival, I nearly couldn’t see my guesthouse for all the student revelry going on. Celebration to welcome all new students to the University- It was a weekend long event that thankfully, I arrived on the last day. Students walking around in strange outfits, biting on what I think were turnips, and drinking beer. Families giving them space and support all along the street. I settled in and went out for an early dinner after navigating the student crowds.

Laundry had to be done, so I spent a couple of hours getting that accomplished while enjoying a cafe con leite at nearby Biquina. (10/9) The rest of the day I did the RS Old Town Walk up to the University stopping in at the Mercado and then took the elevator/funicular up the very steep hill for arrival not far from the Uni main square. I enjoyed a simple cafeteria lunch and then headed to the Joanina library (timed entry). It’s beautiful but I decided a guide would be useful. I thoroughly enjoyed the school of chemistry, and then relaxed at the botanical garden. It was a slow HOT walk back to the guesthouse. Thankfully I was able to rest up in the cool air conditioned room before heading back out for the fado concert at Fado ao Centro. This concert is recommended so often, I just had to sign up and I have to agree that the show is very well done. I love the 12 string Portuguese guitar - pretty sure he was playing a steel string instrument. The voices were wonderfully full and vibrant and the performance was somewhat theatrical-loads of emotion portrayed. I much prefer the all male Coimbra fado compared to the fado performed by predominantly females in Lisbon.

The next 3 days (10/10-10/12) I basically did tours and museums. Before heading to Conimbriga by bus, I stopped back into the cafe (Biquina) near the laundromat for another pasteis de nata and cafe. As I’m sitting there along with about three other guests, in comes a neighbor shop keeper, ordered up an espresso, knocked it down and proceeded to tell her story - something clearly upsetting her. She first greeted the barista and then started in. My goodness, I just wanted to take her hands and say it will be alright. I didn’t understand a word she was saying and I don’t think it was an emergency or anything but she just went on and on about what happened. I came away with a warm and fuzzy feeling that this encounter probably happens on a daily basis - where some neighbor down the street comes in to chat. Love that community feeling. Something I don’t get much of anymore.

Conimbriga (Roman city) was great and I highly recommend taking the time if you have more than a couple of days in Coimbra. I loved the House of Fountains at the end. To enjoy the fountains flowing, pop in a 50 cent piece into the little kiosk. It was lovely and thankfully covered for shade.

Coimbra continued:
Next day, I took the student guided tour of the University including the library and attained so much more perspective about student life in Coimbra. We were able to get a fabulous view of the University and beyond at a viewing platform/catwalk off the Grand Hall. On the walk back to my guesthouse (downhill, yeah!), I met 3 very tall male law students dressed in their black capes presumably selling post cards. This is a common occurrence, especially in the beginning of the school year. The students are trying to outfit their dorms and any extra funds are appreciated. I had a nice chat about my own career in the legal field, gave them a Euro and wished them well in their law studies.

On the last day in Coimbra, I enjoyed Museum Machado de Castro for its underground Roman city. I love to visit Roman ruins but it was weird with this one because it seems like I was the ONLY ONE THERE. I became a bit insecure with all the endless walkways and tunnels and started wondering if I would be able to get out on my own. You know how sometimes our minds play tricks on us? Anyway, I was FINE - but ended my visit after so many sculptures and statues. That night, I finally tried some bacalhao. It was tasty but didn’t agree with my stomach because the next day in Porto, I had to rest a bit upon arrival due to a stomachache. I know my body and had a feeling about salted cod and should not have tried it. Now, out of the heat and on to cooler Porto.

Porto (10/13-10/15):

Accommodations:
In Porto Gallery Guesthouse, R. do Bonjardim: I loved this sweet guesthouse for the lovely courtyard gathering place for our included European breakfast every morning. My room was so inviting with a canopy bed and balcony overlooking the pretty courtyard/garden. There was no elevator, but I was only up one small staircase. Gilbert was very engaging and was always around for any help I needed. I shared a video of my daughter on her paddle board filming orca whales in her neighborhood. He had never seen anything like it.

Porto continued

Meals that stand out:
Cheeseburger with home fries and cool beer at Pimms
Half barbecue chicken with salad at Pedro dos Frangos

What I Did:
I mentioned earlier that I was experiencing stomach problems so, upon arrival in Porto (10/13), I checked into the guesthouse, opened the balcony doors and rested on the comfy bed for an hour or two. It was raining too so I felt extra cozy inside. Eventually I headed out and explored by taking the first half of the RS Porto Walk (city center) starting out on the busy Avenida dos Aliados just a block away from the guesthouse. I took a couple of photos of the Imperial McDonalds decked out with chandeliers and iron work and continued on the walk up to the Praca de Lisboa Park (a park built on top of a parking garage). The upper city walk concluded at the beautiful Clerigos Church and Tower created by famous architect, Nicolas Nasoni. I had read about the Bolhao Market in many guidebooks and websites so I ended the day and enjoyed a big cup of fresh fruit to ease my stomach.

Next up (10/14) was the continued RS Porto walk in the rain to the Sao Bento train station to admire the wonderful tiles depicting early life in Porto, then on to Rua des Flores passing many shops and some pretty awesome street art (huge cat mural on a side street), then to Henry the Navigator Square and the Stock Exchange Building. I really wanted to tour the Stock Exchange building but by the time I arrived there, the English tours were full for the day and I was leaving the next day. A real disappointment. I stopped for a quick lunch of cheeseburger and home fries at Pimms just before hopping on the little ferry from Ribeira to Gaia and the port houses. Thankfully, the rain stopped and I spent a nice afternoon stopping to taste port at Calem. The English tours were booked for the day and I was again disappointed about not having a tour. I’ve read now on the Forum that someone else didn’t think the tour was all that great so, maybe I didn’t miss out on much. The port was delicious and I purchased a small bottle to take home. I took the ferry back to Ribeira and stood in line for the funicular that takes you up the very steep streets to central Porto. It was a long wait in the heat but I was thankful.

Returning to my guesthouse after quite a packed day, I just wanted something convenient for dinner. Well, lo and behold, the place where many locals go for family meals and one that was highly recommended on TripAdvisor, Pedros dos Frangos, was open and not terribly crowded (no reservations accepted) and was steps away from my guesthouse. They seated me upstairs where I savored about half of the half chicken barbecue plate over nearly a couple of hours. As I left the restaurant, there were people lined up on the stairway and out the door. Thank goodness I started my meal early (think it was around 7:15). Oh, and the leftover chicken was nice on my second night in the Douro…..

Douro Valley (10/15-10/18)

Accommodations:
Quinta do Tedo, equidistant between Regua and Pinhao: the grounds at this Quinta are beautiful with many small alcoves to rest and relax in and to look at birds flitting among the lemon and olive trees.my room, Douro DOC, was very spacious and very nicely decorated and the bed very comfortable. The bathroom was huge with a large window that was screened in (not found in Europe very often) and overlooked the river and the Quinta swimming pool. I absolutely loved my accommodation here at the Quinta.

One thing that must be mentioned, if you do not have your own vehicle, getting around the area is difficult as there is no ride share companies operating here and only 4 taxi drivers that serve Regua and Pinhao.

Meals that stand out:
Grouper with couscous and cockles at Quinta do Tedo
Sea bass and caramel mousse at LBV in Pinhao
Quinta breakfast served every morning by sweet??.?

What I Did:

The weather was pretty socked in upon arrival (10/15) so I settled in and made reservations for dinner at the Quinta. The grouper served on a bed of lemony cockles and couscous was absolutely delicious. The glass of a local white wine paired very well with the meal.

The weather cleared up a little bit after breakfast (10/16) so I asked to borrow a pair of binoculars from the Quinta staff and set out on a birding walkabout among the grapevines, olive groves and lemon trees. It was very nice to just be out in nature with a calm mind and spirit for a bit. Later that afternoon, I joined several other Quinta guests and others for the tour of the winery. The tour and tasting was included in my stay at the Quinta and did not disappoint. This farm is a small producer of port and even does the stomping of the grapes at the end of the harvest that takes place in September.

The next day (10/17) I was able to get a taxi, arranged by Quinta staff, to Pinhao for a riverboat cruise and lunch in town. Weather was not ideal for a cruise on the river but I enjoyed the views anyway and had a great conversation with a couple from North Carolina that were in Portugal on an apartment hunt for an eventual move. It was their third scouting trip. Lunch was great at LBV-grilled sea bass with potatoes and cabbage. I topped off the lunch with a yummy but rich caramel mousse.

Here’s where my difficulties getting around the Douro without a rental car comes in to play. I looked everywhere in Pinhao for a taxi and none were to be found, so I walked back to the restaurant and asked them to call me a taxi/ride. You know how in films you see tourists being offered rides from a “friend” “cousin” “colleague.” Well, pretty much that is how I got my ride. I’m not joking, Alex from LBV Restaurant called his friend, Ricardo, who arrived in 10 minutes and he and his friend drove me to the Quinta. We had a wonderful conversation on the short trip and I arranged for them to transport me to the Regua train station the following morning. Now normally, I would be a bit concerned with getting some random dude give me a ride, but for some reason, I felt perfectly safe probably because the young man at the restaurant seemed very professional and responsible and so did his friends. His friends were starting up a business very much like what Uber or Lyft does - giving rides to tourists. They also said they manage several BnBs in the area. I was FINE.

Encounters I’ll remember always and closing thoughts:

Conversation with handsome Scot from Glasgow at bus stop in Reykjavik at 4:00 am

Coimbra - Biquina cafe, lady shopkeeper upset telling story

“Taxi” with Ricardo and friend, recommended by Alex at LBV in Pinhao

TSA at Frankfurt airport very thorough search of my green carry-on. He flipped it open and my hearing aids fall out of their container and onto the floor. Then he wants to inspect each sardine can because he wondered about the liquids in each can.

Uber ride from Frankfurt airport to Holiday Inn “airport”. I was so nervous that the driver was not taking me to the correct address and he didn’t speak much English. It turned out okay and we were in the correct place but the Holiday Inn clearly wasn’t anywhere near the Frankfurt airport. It was about 11 kilometers from the airport.

This second trip to Portugal was something of a scouting mission and to see if I would come away with the same feeling I had the first time, that I wouldn’t mind living here. At least I’m fairly certain of what areas I probably would not try to move to. I found that the towns away from the coast were generally too hot for me and I like small cities that are easily connected to public transportation. The one city along the coast I did not get a chance to explore is Aveiro. I’ve been following the Facebook page called Americans&Friends.pt for almost six months now to learn all about what is involved in becoming a temporary resident of Portugal. I’ve learned a lot and come away feeling more and more committed to doing just that. Family ties are strong and my elderly Dad is still with us so it will be at least a couple of years before I take the plunge. I’m hopeful and very happy to have had the opportunities to travel these past 15-20 years. Next year, I’m focusing on domestic travel and being with the family a bit more. Then, I may take a river cruise on the Danube with my cousin.

Mistakes, Mishaps or What I Could have done differently:

1. Missed out on some plans in Reykjavik (pools, sun voyager sculpture, knitting store) due to some extent on not following my plans more closely for first and only open day in Reykjavik.

2. I spaced out at Frankfurt airport and forgot to check my bag at TAP airlines.

3. Short changed time in Porto; should have cut Coimbra after I had decided to take day trips from Lisbon instead of from Coimbra.

4. Ridiculously short Uber ride from train station to guesthouse in Coimbra. I should have taken a moment at the train station, and look at Google maps for directions before hiring an Uber ride.

5. As mentioned, I had Transportation difficulty in the Douro. I should have rented a car for a couple of days during my stay.

6. Should have packed at least one cool dress and one cool top.

Great trip report. Thanks for posting. We were in Lisbon there same time you were and I can tell I’ll enjoy returning. There’s just so much to do and explore in Lisbon and surrounding areas.

I didn’t find Lisbon hot though. We live in there southern United States and we’re coming from much hotter and humid weather. I did find it was quite sunny midday and I could have brought my hat to cover up.

Thank you for your trip report. I could relate.

I was recently in Porto and Lisbon for the very first time the end of October. Loved it although I made my mistakes

Like yourself, I have problems with my knees needing a replacement for the right one.

I do not remember if it was hot or cold but it was wet and I did tell someone that I felt like I was growing leaves.

I was in Porto the 22nd and Lisbon the 23rd until the 27th.

Lisbon was still very crowded.

Great trip report and definitely not too long. I’m going to take your suggestions for our trip next October and add a day or two to Porto. I’ll probably visit Coimbra as a day trip. We will be visiting around the same dates, September 24 to October 7. I have notes about checking the marathon date for next year.
One question - do you remember any temperature numbers? I thought it might be cooler at the time but I’m beginning to guess I might be wrong.

I enjoyed reading your trip report to pick up ideas for my eventual next visit to Portugal. It sounds like you had much hotter October weather than I did in 2022.

I know exactly what you mean about the tunnels in the Museum Machado de Castro. I looked around at one point wondering if I was the only person down there!

I liked reading about your stay at the Quinta. I took the train to Pinhao as a day trip. On my next visit, I'd like to see more of the Douro Valley and you've given me some ideas. Thanks for taking the time to write this up!

Muriel-understandable that you didn’t find the temp too hot since you come from the southern US. I live in a somewhat temperate zone in Seattle. Frankly, the climate is changing globally and the norm now is vastly different from the norm only a few years ago.

Bostonphil- yeah, my knees and hips hurt if I don’t use them, or the flip side, if I over use them. Targeted exercise helps with pain. I read your recent TR and I too travel with Voltarin or the generic equivalent to alleviate pain.

Barbara-I’m excited for you to venture out to Portugal. You’re familiar with driving in Europe, I believe, because you travel to Croatia often. So if you and hubby make it up to the Duoro, my advice is to rent a car.
The locals were all saying the high temp in October was unusual. It was 31-32 C or nearly 90Fin Lisbon and Coimbra when I was there in early-mid October. I’m not used to that.

Catherine-Thanks for the kudos on my TR. it does take a fair amount of time to write up. I do it for me too as I go back and re-live the trip when I am going through withdrawal. Lol! I really appreciated your report and actually didn’t know about the Roman ruins at the Museo de Castro until I read your TR. Rent a car if you go back to the Duoro.

Great trip report Linda. I spent way too little time in Portugal in 2019 and had planned on going back in 2020 but…..
At any rate, hopefully 2024. I’ve bookmarked your report in the hope that a near future trip happens. Thank you!

Trotter, I hope for the best for you to travel to Portugal. It’s a lovely country where I felt safe and accepted.