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Portugal: 3 weeks in October 2025: Part 1

My self guided trip with college friend Bruce: We both have seen enough Churches, museums and religious sights to last a lifetime, so this trip will be slow and relaxed with 4 nights in Porto, 3 nights in Nazare, 6 nights in Lisbon, 4 nights in Lagos and 3 nights in Amsterdam. Be forewarned, this report is very wordy and detailed.
We flew non stop on KLM flight from Portland to Amsterdam and then on to Porto arriving Tuesday morning. I booked a seat in Economy Comfort + section which gives 4 inches more leg room and a little more seat recline. We had no issues with our flights and our Welcome Pickups driver got us to the Moov Hotel Porto Centro in the Batalha area for our 4 night stay. After checking in, we ventured out to visit the huge indoor market Mercado do Bolhao and then had dinner at the Cervejaria Nortada brewpub nearby. Wandered around the hilly city until our feet were exhausted and called it a night.
Day 2 in Porto:
After a nice breakfast at our hotel we rode the Hop on, Hop off bus red line for a 2 hour trip through town sightseeing and to the west coast beach area finishing at the Ribeira area next to the Duoro river. We wandered along the Ribeira water front, had lunch then crossed over the lower span of the Luis I bridge. Took the cable car up to the top span and walked back over for a break back at our hotel. Both of us are suffering from jet lag and lack of sleep. We go out later for dinner and call it a night early. Weather has been cool in the low 70's with overcast skies and some sun breaks.
Porto day 3:
We start the day riding the Hop on, Hop off bus blue line which takes us across the bridge to the Villa Nova de Gaia part of town. The 8 scheduled stops are not explained well but include some Port wine tasting companies. We get off and find the Quinta da Boeira winery where we learn about the Port wine making process and taste some Tawny red and some white wine. Later we got off at the wrong stop and missed the next bus so we hoof it 1/2 mile and walk over the Luis I bridge to get back to our hotel. Later we wander down to the river for our 6 bridges boat tour with some nice views. Walked back up some more hilly streets to get our legs worn out and back to our hotel for another break. Later we had dinner at the reasonably priced Italian Republic Aliados restaurant. Some gelato finishes off our night and we are off to bed. Purchased train tickets on the CP app for our journey up the Duoro river to Pinhao tomorrow.
Porto Portugal day 4:
We take the 2 ½ hour train ride from the Sao Bento train station to Pinhao to view and experience the Port wine vineyards and some wine tasting. We arrived around noon and wandered around this small unique town with a beautiful waterfront area with a nice hotel on one end and some quaint cafes on the other. We started to walk towards the Quinta das Carvathas winery across the river but it wasn't open for 2 hours so we pivoted and took a 1 hour boat ride further up the Duoro with some nice views of the vineyards on the steep hillsides.

Returned to Quinta das Carvathas where we learned more about the making of Port wine and then we tasted some varieties outside along with some snacks. The return train got us back around 7:30pm and just outside the Sao Bento train station is the Time Out market which consists of many restaurants inside along with a nice outdoor seating area. It is a warm Friday night and the place is bustling with young local people and many tourists, so we sat outside where we met a lovely couple Clive and Grace from the United Kingdom (UK) who were on holiday for a few days. We drank some Super Bock beer and had some laughs about our current political situation and after they left we got a pizza inside for a nice late dinner. We also met a large group from Hungary who sat at our table who were very nice.

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Part 2: Nazare day 5&6:
Saturday morning we took an Uber to the bus station in Porto and found the correct Rede Expressos bus #16 for our 2 hour 45 min trip to Nazare. Arrived around 2:30pm, then a short Uber ride to the Hotel Praia which is a couple of blocks from the beach. We shared a Suite in this very nice hotel which has incredible views from the rooftop pool, a bar and a wonderful breakfast buffet. Nazare is a crusty beach resort town famous for it's surfing and enormously high waves during the late fall and winter. Check out the HBO series 100 foot Wave. After our daily infusion of Super Bock beer at the Bar Da Adega, we wandered along the boardwalk and later we ate at the Tabernassa restaurant where we had amazing grilled Tuna and a Caesar salad. There are limited tourist sites here but on Sunday we took an Uber up above the beach area to the surf museum which is located in a 16th century fort with a lighthouse on the cliffs above Nazare. Beautiful sunny weather in the low 80's provided great ocean views from this amazing viewpoint. Uber back to our hotel for a siesta and some relaxing time in the pool. Later we returned to the Tabernassa restaurant where I tried the octopus while Bruce had cod fish along with a tasty Montanheira salad. More strolling along the beach and some required Gelato finished our evening.

Nazare and Obidos day 7&8: This morning we took an Uber to visit Obidos with it's 14th century wall around the city. We climb the ancient stairs and begin the treacherous walk around the westside section with some trepidation as there are no handrails to prevent a 45 foot drop over the edge. Amazing views reward our valiant effort and fortunately a gate on one side forces us back down to safer ground. The small town has beautiful narrow streets with increasing number of tourists filling the lanes. We stumble upon an outdoor cafe which serves us some ice cold Erdinger German beer. After our brief visit in Obidos another Uber gets us back to Nazare for some more Super Bock beer on the beach and then a dip in the hotel Praira rooftop pool. Later we once again have another nice dinner at our favorite restaurant Tabernassa. The following morning we board a Rede Expressos bus for the 2 hour ride to Lisbon the capital of Portugal. We arrived on time and after some confusion locating our Uber driver near the main street, we are whisked to the ibis Styles Lisboa Centro Liberdade NE for our 6 night stay in a suite on the 8th floor.
More Super bock beer and after the bar tender gives us some restaurant recommendations, we walked a few blocks to Cacho Dourado for some amazing white bean soup with carrots and cabbage along with the daily special tuna for my friend Bruce, while I try the savory pork. Yum yum! We take a short walk around the neighborhood then call it a night.

Lisbon day 9: We took an Uber to the Castle of S. Jorge for some beautiful views high above the city. After touring the castle grounds and museum we head down the steep streets in the Alfama district and stop briefy for a Ginjinha which is a cherry liquor often served in a small chocolate cup. We continue down and find more view points along the way and some Super bock beer when we take a break. We finally make it down to the waterfront area and locate the Metro station for a quick ride back to the hotel.
After some needed rest we head out for another dinner at Cacho Dourado close to our hotel then ride the subway two stops to find the Carmo rooftop bar. My phones GPS eventually gets us to the bar via some back tracking and climbing too many stairs but we are rewarded with some nice views of the city and the Santa Justa elevator. We go back down through the busy Baixa shopping district full of tourists eating and shopping while heading towards the waterfront. Near the end we walk through the Praça do Comércio square then take the Metro back to our hotel.

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Part 3: Lisbon day 10: This morning we tackle the most challenging and ultimate Lisbon area tourist adventure with this underlying question, is it possible to go from our hotel in Lisbon to Sintra and then up the hills to the Pena Palace for our timed entry at 11:00 AM. After many hours of research reading guide books and using Google AI, we leave our hotel at 9:15AM. Walk to the metro subway station, ride the Azule (blue) line to the Restaurantes stop. Then we walk to the Rossio train station, and board the fully stuffed tourist train to Sintra. Exit the station and get on the #434 bus which slowly crawls it's way up the winding narrow road to the Pena Palace park entrance, but wait there's more. Now we wait in line for the green shuttle bus for the remaining trek up the final hill where we arrive at 11:00 to walk up a few more steep paths to the Palace entrance which has hundreds of other tourists also with a 11:00 AM entry time. The Pena Palace is packed full of visitors so the people in line are sporadically allowed in. We finally win the lottery and get in at 11:25AM. We see many beautiful rooms full of ornate furniture and finally escape this painful overrated tourist slog one hour later. We take a seat in the outdoor cafe and enjoy some strawberry slushies and a tuna sandwich. If I had to do over again, skip the interior visit and just view this magnificent Palace from the outside, no ticket or timed entry required.

On the way down on the shuttle bus we met a family from eastern Canada whose father shared such a passion for old VW's that we were caught up in the conversation and we forgot to exit the bus to visit the Moorish castle below. No worries, seen one castle, seen them all. We grab a quick beer and then do the return train/subway maneuver to get back to our hotel. After an afternoon break we have a nice dinner around the corner at Bruso Brasil Bistro.

Lisbon days 11-12: We took the blue (Azule) and green (Verde) metro subway trains to the riverfront to catch the above ground train to Belem. Walked along the water to visit the Monument to the discoveries and the Belem tower which was undergoing some renovation. Then we visited the Maritime museum, took a beer break then walked to the Pastéis de Belém which was the birthplace of the famous custard tart. The place was a bit of a madhouse but the takeout counter had no line, so after a quick view of the kitchen area, we left with a custard six pack equipped with powdered sugar and cinnamon packets. The hotel hair dryer works well to warm up these delicious custard tarts. A quick train, green and blue metro subway ride and we are back at our hotel. We ate at a nice meal at Banze a Petiscaria which was another great seafood restaurant recommended by the bartender at our hotel.

The next day (Sat) we rode the metro to the Rossio train station area then hiked up the hill where the Elevador da Gloria trolly had the recent horrible derailment accident that killed 16 and injured 23. The trolly is no longer in service. Taking the trolly up the steep hill was supposed to be the beginning part of a Rick Steves (RS) Europe audio walking tour of the Bairro Alto-Chiado neighborhood.

The RS walking tour introduced us to some great views and narrow streets in some new unexplored Lisbon territory. We walked past the Yaroz Doce bar which offers a free shot to anyone who gives up their bra. Ok, that is different. We walked through Pink Street which has colorful umbrellas and a pink motif. Ended our walking tour near the waterfront at the Time Out Market which was a food court and fresh produce market on steroids. Every possible food, desserts and drinks were available inside this covered arena of joy. After getting back to our hotel we later had another quick dinner meal at Luso Brasil Bistro.

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Part 4: Lisbon and Lagos days 13-14: On our last day in Lisbon (Sunday) we rode the metro subway and then took the 45min train ride west to the seaside town of Cascais. Just by chance, Cascais was hosting the Ironman triathlon event this weekend so there was a flurry of activities near the waterfront. Imagine doing a 3.8km (2.4 mile) swim, 180km (112 mile) bike ride then finally you run a 42km (26.2 mile) marathon. Holy pain in the butt Batman!

We wander around the waterfront for a couple of hours then take the train and subway back to our hotel. Later we go back to the high town neighborhood to have thin crust wood fired pizza and pasta at Mezzogiorno. After dinner we walk up some more hilly streets to have a beer at Trinidad which is known as the oldest brewpub in Lisbon. At the bar we watch them craft some amazing seafood combo platters while keeping us full of liquid gold beer. Return on the Metro then walk to the hotel to crash for the night.

The next morning we take an Uber to the Lisbon airport car rental center and after getting our car, we drive south for about 3 hours to Lagos in the Algarve on the southern tip of Portugal. Our hotel the Iberostar Selection Lagos makes us feel like we won the lottery with it's lavish accommodations near the beach with 4 swimming pools and indulgent staff. We walked to a beach restaurant nearby called Berlim for grilled tuna and swordfish meal.

Lagos Portugal day 15: Our hotel the Iberostar Selection Lagos is apparently rated at 4 or 5 stars depending on the reviewer. One thing is clear , we don't belong here nor do we deserve this level of luxury for only $165 USD per night. We have been waiting for the inevitable knock on our door by the impeccable hard working dedicated staff telling us there was a huge mistake, you must get out of here.

But, until then, we have been enjoying the unbelievable accommodations, the incredible breakfast, the 3 outdoor pools, along with indoor pool, gym, lunch snack bar, and of course the bar with incredible ocean views. Tuesday we walked along the beach 2 miles into the small town Lagos for some touristy shopping and sightseeing. After taking an Uber back to our hotel, and a swim, we venture out again to the beach area to eat Seafood Curry at the Gaivota Branca restaurant. After our dinner they brought out some very long stem decanters for a complimentary taste of Port wine.

Lagos Portugal days 16-17: On Wednesday we drove our rental car to a few scenic spots just west of Lagos on the coast then we stopped in the quaint fishing village of Salema which has a beautiful wide beach. Then we drove to Cape St. Vincent which is the most south western location in Portugal and Europe. This place has some beautiful coastal cliff formations and several tacky souvenir vendors but there was a German couple with a food truck selling "die Letzte Bratwurst vor America" which translates to "The last Bratwurst before America ". Of course, I had to have one of those delicious bratwurst sandwiches. On the way back to our hotel we did a drive by of the Cape Sagres fort where Henry the Navigator trained many ship captains who explored the world back in the 15th century.

On our last day of sightseeing outside Lagos Portugal, we drove east to hike around the coastal Benegil caves and later to Algo Seco with beautiful limestone rock formations. After we returned to our wonderful hotel we enjoyed the nice hotel pool and lounged around on this beautiful sunny 82 degree day. Tomorrow we drive back to Lisbon and then fly to Amsterdam for a few nights before heading home.

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Part 5: Lagos, Amsterdam Netherlands: days 18-19: Friday morning we had our last amazing breakfast buffet at our Lagos hotel, then we left at 8:30am to drive 3 hours back to the Lisbon airport to drop off our rental car and board our TAP flight to Amsterdam. We stopped to refuel the car, but struggled a bit when my credit card wouldn't work at the pump but we went inside to pay and get the fuel flowing. All the rental car companies return area was inside a minuscule parking garage which was a madhouse, felt like we were at Disneyland on the bumper car ride. Managed to avoid scratching the car on the many guardrails and returned the car with no issues.

Flight left on time, we arrived in Amsterdam around 7, found the Uber pickup area and after enduring the cold rainy weather, we finally were picked up and arrived at the Westcord Fashion hotel around 8pm. Amsterdam weather is on par with Portland, light rain, moderate winds around 50F. A very long travel day but everything worked out fine.

On Saturday we took a vacation from our vacation given the inclement weather and enjoyed our nice hotel amenities by using the indoor pool, and paying 5 euros to use the Turkish sauna, infared sauna and the regular sauna. All three saunas have a nude no bathing suits requirement. Really? After changing out of my bathing suit and covering the family jewels with a towel, I entered the regular sauna to discover it was coed but my glasses immediately fogged up so everyone's private parts were obscured. Gotta love the Netherlands. After taking a cold shower, and getting my clothes back on, we walked around the block to Norma Pizza and split a salad and a pizza Norma. The food was great and our waitress originated from New Zealand.

Amsterdam day 20: We started the day with a great breakfast buffet at our hotel and then after digestion was completed, did some walking laps in the indoor pool. At 1pm we secured some umbrellas and walked 1/4 mile enduring some light rain and moderate winds to the light rail tram 17 and rode 30 min until we arrived at Central Station. We started walking towards the historic Heineken brewery for a tour later around 3pm.

The wide streets with cars, light rail, scooters and many many bicycles was organized chaos but was very efficient. We were amazed walking along the canals and narrow pedestrian streets that there were so many restaurants and businesses along our trek. The streets were full of locals and tourists on this overcast blustery day but we lucked out with no rain during our sightseeing walk. After 2 miles we arrived at the Heineken brewery for a nice tour which included a couple of beers. We were getting hungry so we found a wonderful restaurant nearby called Venster 33 which had some great starter snacks and tasty pale ale from "The Two Chefs" brewery. Our server and host Adrian interpreted the menu to help us get some great starters as they weren't serving dinner until 6pm which was 2 hours away.

Hand crafted french fries with homemade mayonnaise, fried mozzarella sticks, fried rice balls, and fried spring rolls along with great sauces satisfied our hunger pangs. We thanked our host Adrian and walked a bit then quickly boarded the red line #1 light rail back to our hotel. The next morning we took a taxi to the airport for our non stop KLM flight back to Portland. For the return flight, I booked a seat in the Economy Comfort + section but two hours into the 9 ½ hour flight, I was offered the last seat in Premium Economy to give the couple sitting next to me more room. Wow, I am definitely spoiled now and will find it difficult to sit in the economy section again. We arrived back in Portland, my friend Bruce flew back to central California with no problems. Cheers Scott

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Thanks Scott for a wonderful trip report. Sounds like you had such a good time. It reminded me of my most recent trip to Portugal.

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we forgot to exit the bus to visit the Moorish castle below. No
worries, seen one castle, seen them all.

I don't think we can be friends ;). If I had a bumper sticker on my car it would say "I brake for castles." I enjoyed the Moorish Castle far more than Pena Palace, and the walk through the forest to get to it was spectacular. Having said that, since you visited St. Jorges castle in Lisbon you'd get the general idea of what a Moorish castle looks like.

I walked the walls in Obidos last year and I agree that there can be some nervous moments. There was a couple times when I needed to pass a person taking a photo that was completely oblivious to their surroundings. I was nervous they would back into me while I was trying to pass.