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Poland & Prague--Part 1, Poland

I've just returned from my vacation to Krakow, Warsaw and Prague and very pleased to report that all my plans and connections worked out perfectly, the weather was mostly good and I've fine-tuned several aspects of packing lighter--for a 12 night trip I took a packed bag that weighed 28 lbs and had plenty of room for souvenirs coming home, with 1 extra pair of jeans, 4 short and 4 long-sleeved tops, 2 light sweaters, light jacket and 4 pair socks, 5 undies and a spare pair of shoes.

I arrived in Krakow around 2 pm on Sunday and took a taxi to the Hotel Unicus on sw. Marka, just off Florianska and thus right in the middle of the bustling Old Town. Lovely hotel, very spacious room, excellent breakfast included. I immediately set off to explore the Rynek Glowny--crowded but not unpleasantly so. Cloth Hall is full of touristy souvenir stuff but the Polish art museum on the top floor is well-worth a visit for art lovers. I wandered several side streets to get my bearings, map in hand, then back to the square for food. Lots of activities going on--music, vendors with more interesting hand-made items and food and beer stands. The stand full of all kinds of grilled meat and sausages was a no-brainer, got an enormous kielbasa and potatoes and a beer and sat down to enjoy at a family-style table. Within 5 minutes I was being pestered by a beggar--I attribute this to the fact that I was sitting down as standing up I am tall and imposing. At any rate, I told him in no uncertain terms to go away. He continued, leaning entirely too close to my food so then I got loud and testy. This he seemed to understand as he backed away, bowing as he went. Sigh. Annoying but nothing to be upset about.

Monday and Tuesday were all about exploring the beautiful and easily walkable old town, museums and Kazimierz district. Wawel Hill had several museums but the ticketing procedure is confusing and leaves a lot to be desired--I wasn't able to get in to Lady with Ermine and decided to find the dragon and then move on into Kazimierz, which I loved--real people there, walkable streets not thronged with tourists and some great shops with antiques and artist collectives, plus beautiful architecture and Jewish cemetaries. Schindler's Factory museum was really well-done, great history of WWII in Krakow and very moving. The Contemporary Art museum was free on Tuesday--fans of contemporary art will love it, I felt so-so about it. After that a visit to the Ethnographic museum changed the mood as I loved the depictions of life in Poland, their costumes, customs, traditions and folk art. Jan Matejko House on Florianska was interesting and I entered various churches as well. It was hot while I was there so it was always nice to step into the Planty with a drink to rest my feet a bit. The old town and square were walked and explored each day, really liked the feeling of it. Wednesday I took a guided day trip to Auschwitz, picked up at 7 and returned around 3. Small group of 19 people worked nicely, didn't get to enter all the buildings but really, that was fine, I saw more than enough and will never forget what I saw. It is as expected, in some ways, and yet I felt a strange sense of serenity there. Birkenau was much more desolate and creepy, to me.

The remaining nights I had dinner at a place called Antler--craving a hamburger and they had an excellent variety and also poutine, then a small pizza at Cyclops near my hotel and the last night I braved the market again for a pork knuckle and potatoes. Food and beer very affordable, plus numerous marketplaces around the old town if you want fresh fruit and vegetables, and not hard to find a coffee shop for a latte if needed.

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Thursday I took the PKP Intercity Express from Krakow Glowny to Warsawa Centralna--2nd class ticket just $13 US, and they serve drinks and snacks. I sat next to a charming doctor and we had a good chat, arriving in Warsaw in just about 2.5 hours. Taxi to MaMaison Le Regina on the edge of Old and New towns, due to my own schedule goof I had to stay one night there then move to another, but that worked out fine as I easily walked that first day to the Museum of Polish Jews (interesting and highly recommend) and the Marie Curie museum--not much to see but the building has a great mural of her and the Po and Ra symbols. That night I wandered a bit into the square and ate outside at Krolewski, basic Polish cuisine. If I didn't know Warsaw had been levelled I wouldn't have realized, their rebuilding efforts are incredible and it feels very old.

Friday I checked out and headed over to my hotel for the next 3 nights, the Bristol. Super fancy! But only $115 US a night and again I loved my room. In the early evening I would often hear someone playing an accordion on the street below, something I found charming but perhaps not to everyone's taste...This was on the main street and much busier, but again not at all frazzling, and the streets are closed to cars in the evenings. That day I walked to the National Gallery and saw wonderful Polish art and explored that area and Chmielna before finding a place for a salad, which I was craving, Kultura just across from the hotel and next to an art-house cinema. A good place for coffee in the morning and various fresh snacks is Caffe Green Nero, several branches throughout Warsaw. In the old main square I found a wonderful shop called Pol Art, basically a collective selling folk art made by Polish craftspeople--not tourist crap. Lots of funky wood carvings, pottery, embroidered and woven items, etc. Nothing like it anywhere else.

Saturday I made a long day trip to Gdansk by PKP, again just $13 US each way and 3 hours. Left on the 6:30 am train and returned on the 5:30--it was a cold, windy and drizzly day there and I wanted nothing more than to be wrapped up somewhere warm, but you have to get out and do while you can so I made the best of it. Gdansk is well-worth the effort and the architecture is so different and the setting on the Baltic just adds to it. I easily walked to the old town from the station in about 10 minutes, saw a Polish cheerleading competition complete with bad Euro-pop music, wandered about taking pictures and looking in churches and then took a boat ride out to see Westerplatte. Back in time for a pasta lunch, weather getting colder but I was determined to see the Solidarity sites & museum so back I trudged toward the train station & then followed signs to shipyard. Lots to see outside, monuments, etc, but the new museum is really spectacular & interesting, spent a good 2.5 hours. At the McDonalds in the train station--warmth, coffee and free Wi-Fi!-I was approached by no less than 5 beggar kids in rapid succession. Pushy little devils, and looked clean and well-fed but again I was firm and increasingly loud and the Polish man next to me said something magic because then they all disappeared.

Sunday was my last day in Warsaw and after a leisurely start I visited the Royal Castle--free on Sunday--and back to the Pol Art shop for a few things, a bit of people-watching and more walking and photographing, including Lazienski park. Dinner was at the café in the hotel.

Monday I headed to the airport for Prague so will continue as a separate post for my experience there. I fell completely in love with Poland and the people there-beggars notwithstanding- very kind and helpful, pleasantly busy vibe, the cities were continually being cleaned, countryside was beautifuI, excellent food & the exchange rate was very much in our favour. Mostly European tourists. I found the Poles to speak enough English to be helpful, not much for conversing. I would gladly return!

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Glad you had such a great trip to Poland, Christa! I was born and grew up there so I like to read positive experiences from other travelers. I would have never guessed so many people would be visiting (at last). I think it's a very good value compared to other countries, and there are plenty of interesting things to do. I would say that, next time you're there, don't be shy about taking the metro/subway in Warsaw (especially from the central train station). It's very easy to get around in and it's quite new/modern. It connects most attractions (and others can be accessed via the street trams). I don't think I've ever needed to take a taxi there, although they are probably cheap.

Also, if you like Polish arts and crafts, check out "Cepelia" (you can see google images online) plus they have really neat stores in Krakow and Warsaw. I always pick up something there and bring it back with me.

http://www.folkartandcraft.net/members/the-foundation-cepelia-polish-art-and-handicraft/

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Yes, I really feel quite pleased that I chose Poland this year, the idea occurred to me when in Budapest last summer and as a huge history nerd, particularly about WWII and Communism, I became more and more convinced I needed to visit this lovely country. It's most assuredly a place I will add to my "must return" list, while Prague is not on that list. I would definitely like to spend more time in the Gdansk region.

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Sadly, I agree with you about Prague. It's so lovely. But SO crowded. I went in 1992 and it was that way even then - I can't imagine what it would be like now. I have to admit your writeup about Mucha Museum, Jewish cemetery, etc. makes me want to go back, but then I think about the crowds and change my mind. There are lots of other beautiful places in the world (including other Czech cities) that haven't been as heavily marketed as Prague, fortunately.

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Christa, thanks for you informative report on your travels in Poland. You have done exactly what I am hoping to do next Spring. I am earmarking your post so to be able to refer back to it when I start planning. Thanks again!
Lisa

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2596 posts

Lisa--I've been back a month now and still find myself thinking very happily about my time in Poland, raving about it to anyone who asks. Interestingly, it's mainly men who are really keen to hear about everything I saw, thanks to The History channel-where the Civil and second World Wars never end!