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Peru -- Trip Report September 2024

Peru is a comfortable country to travel in. People are honest-- even gentle. Total cost (used points to fly there and back) was $5600 for 2, 28 days, $200/day for two people. Travel was independent but with plenty of assist. No cellular service during trip. We chose a middle path, independent travel with a lot of upgrades in transportation. Multi-day tours cost 3-5 times more per day than we paid. Shoestring travel could probably be done for less than $40/day using the local transport options.

This was a retirement trip composed of a lifelong Peru wish list of sights, having never been. I filled an itinerary of 4 weeks of travel to be able to see everything I had hoped to see. The basics were Inca ruins, the Andes, Lake Titicaca, Nasca Lines, and the Amazon River. Although we were not on a tour (there was no tour offered that covered everything I wanted to see, and I wasn’t going to compromise sights), we used what I call transit tours on a couple occasions which is something they offer in Peru, to go from one tourist destination to another with set stops along the way at sights, and with a guide. I thought this was nice compromise over not taking a days-long tour. We also hired a driver for the day twice, which was another way to enhance independent travel by easing the logistics (at a price of course). In the end we never took the cheapo combis or the basic long-distance buses to get from place to place, I guess thinking we are too old for that. The deluxe long-distance buses are really something, with virtually lie flat seats and privacy curtains, and a goodie bag with water and snacks, about $25 for a 10-hour journey.

ATMs were a problem that was unexpected. Typical local fees for an ATM are 35 soles (about $10) PLUS a percentage of the amount withdrawn. This is not a dynamic conversion issue, these are the basic fees charged. The only exception was Banco de la Nacion with their MultiRed ATMs which had no fee and are fairly common, but unfortunately are restricted to about $105 worth of soles withdrawn per day (for Mastercard, Visa debit cards can withdraw $210). There is often a line for the MultiRed ATMs. So avoiding the fees become a problem, but I managed to spread out the ATM visits to 6 over the trip, always taking out the maximum allowed, and nearly always had enough cash. I did have to change a US $50 bill at a restaurant in Ollantaytambo in a pinch; the rate wasn’t bad. Only using cash when necessary (admissions, taxis, tips, places not taking cards) I needed about $750 in cash or about $200/week as a minimum. Some travel forums say you can get by with just a card but that’s not true, you will need a lot of cash. I left home with about $250 as an emergency stash and needed more than half of that. Usually on Europe trips all the dollars I take come home with me.

Flights were on American via Miami, day flights. During daylight time in US, Peru time = Central Daylight Time, ie no jet lag w/10 hours of flying. I had churned a couple of AA Citibank cards for the sign up bonuses and had points required for 2 business class tickets (but not lie flat seats, these were single aisle jets). Had lounge access both directions in Miami, and needed it since after booking the layovers increased and so had 5 hour and 7 hour connections. Note that neither of these American jets had screens in First Class or Business Class, but free streaming to a phone was pretty easy. Kind of like Southwest….

As an aside, I’d had a yellow fever vax but my wife had not. Checking around home I could only find a vax for about $800, and it’s not covered by insurance (it was in the old days). I found that I could drive to Winnipeg (6 hours) and get one for less than $200 US but passed on that. Decided to get one in a local clinic in Lima or at the airport there, $50.

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Part 2
Arrived Lima about 8:30 pm after a long day of 2 flights. Slight wait for bags, then we had our first usage of the driving service Taxidatum. And there he was, a driver with a sign with my name on it, drove us 45 minutes though horrendous traffic to our Lima (San Isidro) hotel. We would use Taxidatum again something like 9 times total, in Lima and in Cusco area. Forgot it was a cash only service so had to pay $20 for a $18 fare. The Holiday Inn Express was extremely nice, ended up on the 22nd floor. Slept very well and had a wonderful included breakfast buffet, really something, more like a person would get at a hotel in Scandinavia, and not the usual US HIE drivel.

Lima is cloudy or foggy in the winter but only a tad cool, like upper 60s for high temps. Walked the 30 minutes to the clinic for the vax, down a street that had a lot of embassies. On arrival discovered that they won’t (ever) vaccinate people over 59 for yellow fever in Peru and my wife passed that date by 3 months. So no vax was possible even for cash, an unfortunate discovery. Tried a public clinic nearby, free vaxes even for foreigners and no wait, but the same 59 age rule was in place. Decided to make sure when we got to the Amazon to use copious bug spray. Walked to the ocean and admired the cliffs and water. All in all Lima is a lot like LA, dry with distant mountains and a lot of traffic. Researched yellow fever later that day to discover that the Iquitos area hasn’t had a case in years.
Flew mid-morning to Cusco (Taxidatum again, this time I had the right bills), stopped at a MultiRed for more cash on the way. Flew highest class and got the front seats, water bottle, snacks, an hour flight maybe $85, LATAM, great airline. Arrived in Cusco, now in the sun and out of the clouds, Taxidatum guy already there with sign, drove us the 2 hours to Ollantaytambo, $32. I had booked an AirBnb in the old Incan part of the town, it was a good 500 yards on cobblestones down a narrow street to the house. It looked great in the pictures but ended up a little too rustic: main floor toilet smelled, main floor dark, kitchen spartan, the upstairs was light and spacious but unfortunately there were barking dogs in the night, 2 of the nights, hard to sleep through it even with earplugs. It was wonderful to stay in a 500+ year old town and old colonial house however, surrounded by locals often in colorful dress.

Ollantaytambo (4 nights): Object here was to stay in an unpronounceable place (just kidding), main reason was it’s the best place from where a person can day trip to Machu Picchu without a crazy long day. From Cusco it’s almost a 20 hour trip. Also at 9000 ft it is lower than Cusco which is 11,000 ft and I used the time to help with altitude acclimation. I have had issues with altitude previously. And there are several great ruins right above the town. First day visited the main ruins on the mountainside west of town. Was able to beat the Cusco tour crowds (it’s on the Sacred Valley tour) by visiting in the morning and really enjoyed the climb, gasping the whole way due to the altitude. Went all the way to the lookout above. Marveled at how dry nearly all tourist Peru is, it’s cactus and yuccas, practically no trees in the Andes at all except small groves of eucalyptus and some isolated native pines. Probably a controversial statement but the Andes are less pretty than I expected. Just naked rock for the most part with patches of snow on the top. In the wet season there would be green grass, I wonder if I would have preferred that, or maybe May right at the end of the wet with some green.

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Part 2a

Our second day we climbed to the ruins on the mountainside to the east, less busy but also quite interesting and great views, still lots of gasping due to altitude. Had very good meals in this small place and this was our introduction to Peruvian food: it’s very, very good, beautifully presented, both Chinese and Japanese influences, clearly their food is a pride of the nation. Ate everything with abandon, and no gut issues ever.

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Part Three
Here we go, the Machu Picchu visit. Overall impression: it’s really a production, it’s busy, it’s enjoyable but I am taking a deep breath just thinking about it all. Train and MP tickets were booked about 4 months previous since in the dry season anyway it’s all booked up well in advance. It’s pricy, cheapest train tickets are $100 and middle of the day costs more (RT, each, something like 20 miles EW). Was lucky to book the MP ticket before June because I nabbed the basic ruins circuit plus Inca bridge. Starting June 1 they dropped this ticket, and to do both would require 2 tickets (about $42 EA). Picked the 10-11 am MP admission to avoid morning fog, many people who go early have poor visibility even in the dry season.

Started 6 am with a 30 minute walk from house to train station, got checked in, walked to train car behind musicians and dancers in native dress (a bit much), about 2 hours to go the 20 miles to MP Pueblo, the service town on the river below the ruins. It started to rain on the train, bummer. Had breakfast and hoped rain would stop, it didn’t, had purchased the shuttle tickets already online, got in line, waited about an hour to get on the bus. Takes about 30 minutes to drive up to the ruins. Climbed up to the famous viewpoint over the ruins—just clouds, can’t see a thing! People are taking selfies with a gray background. Turn to the Inca Bridge entry and check in there at the booth, it’s a nice walk along a cliff on an trail built by Incas, get to the lookout of the Inca Bridge, it’s impressive, glad we were able to do this. Turning back I see that the valley to the south is clearing, I can even see the river all the way down, so fingers crossed. We get back to the main lookout about 30 minutes later and over the course of about 10 minutes the clouds gradually clear and there it is, Machu Picchu in all it’s famous glory.

We walked through the ruins, amazingly here (and most Peruvian ruins) there is very minimal signage, a few words at best, then made our way through the ruins and crowds, taking in the mountain peaks and the llamas, trying our best to avoid other people. Some of the famous places are roped off and not visible, another bummer. [Aside: the tour groups can be big and tend to stop on stairs and other obnoxious areas and really clog things up. Without the tours it would be a smoother visit for everyone.] The best part was near the exit where the views open up and to the left is MP and the mountain above it, and ahead and to the right is the Urubamba river valley, the river far below with peaks behind. Here the clouds really added to the visit the way they swirled around the mountains like a Chinese watercolor. Repeat all the steps before except have the time to walk down to the town so do it. The forest comes up from the Amazon and into the Andes from the east and so this is jungle here and a nice relief from the normal desert that tourist Peru is, so I enjoyed walking down through the trees. It was a bit disconcerting how many people were running down the steps to catch their trains, the line for the shuttle was too long for them to wait.

Had a plenty of time to have a leisurely dinner, found out that one of the shuttle buses crashed coming down from MP right after we went up, many injured and the trains were delayed because some had to carry injured people out.

By 7 Pm or so the train delays were minimal and so we got back on the train and back to O not that much later than expected.

Current websites, usually just choose one rail company:

Machu Picchu Ticket

IncaRail

PeruRail

Shuttle Bus

Note that trains DO NOT allow suitcases or large backpacks

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Part Four

Cusco (5 nights) Catch Taxidatum again, this time a day tour to Cusco with stops, 6 hours, $58. Driver waits at the 3 set stops and then delivers us to our AirBnB in Cusco. First was a very busy Maras salt mine, a vast terraced mountainside set up by Incas to distill salt from mineral spring water, very pretty and fascinating, still a working production. Second was the Moray circular terraces, then the town and Inca ruin of Chinchero. Decided to skip lunch and got to Cusco about 4 pm. This time a much better AirBnb with an attentive couple who host it and live across the hall. Got some great restaurant recs and went out for our first of many great meals in Cusco.

We had bought the tourist ticket which included admissions to many ruins and museums, so we started going through the small included museums. A couple were pretty interesting, the Regional Historical Museum and the Contemporary Art Museum, a couple less interesting. The second day we got an Uber ($4) up to the Sacsayhuaman ruin above the city, big, interesting quarters esp at the rear, and massive Inca stone walls overlooking the city (these were the walls Leonard Nimoy said were built by aliens in the 70s TV show “In Seach Of…”). Still having gasping issues at the altitude even after so many high up days. Walked back to our AirBnB all downhill, saw the colonial aqueduct on the way, interesting.

Decided to do the full through hike at Pisac Ruin. From the top/rear all the way down to the town of the same name. This website was a godsend, thanks Nick! Again used Taxidatum, 5 hours, $58. Plan was to get dropped off at the top/back, then do the 3 mile hike along the ridge and through all the various ruins and terraces and end up down in the town where the driver would be waiting for us. At Pisac, because it is so much effort to reach, the sacred sun stone is available and can be seen basically alone (there’s a guard), the one at MP is not open to the public. Didn’t know how long this would take (generally guidebooks were not very helpful anywhere in Peru), but guessed 2-3 hours (it took 3-1/4) and told the driver that. I was worried about the tunnel halfway along because the only way down is via the tunnel and in the pics looked pretty small (I just squeezed through, lucky because I don’t think I could have climbed all the way back up and out the way I came).

This was one of our best days in Peru, the ruins were great, the crowds thinned after about 30 minutes of walking south, practically no one does the through hike so we were mostly alone the next almost 3 hours. Views were spectacular as was the weather (unlike when at MP which is on the wet side of the Andes), so an amazing day. For the main complex with the sacred sun stone it was just the 2 of us and a really good Incan ruin with walls and rooms. With the crowding at some of the major ruins I so much appreciated this day, probably a superior experience to MP. Just packed enough water, 5 bottles, I thought it would be plenty, did I say Peru is super duper dry? It’s like the Sahara on Steroids. If you have any sinus issues, with the altitude you will be a little miserable, bring saline nasal spray.

Last day in Cusco we visited the old Inca temple, absorbed partly by a Catholic church, Qorikancha, very interesting, more good Inca construction. At the base is another museum with mummies and displays on how they formed babies’ skulls into cube shapes. Walked around the historic old town one last time, Cusco is a bit like Rome with all the Incan walls incorporated into modern buildings.

Restaurant recommendations:
Tunupa
Morena

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Part Five:

Puno (2 nights) Tour bus to Puno (“Route of the Sun”), left early, 3 stops along the way included with guide, in Andahaylillas saw a gorgeous church with a painted ceiling, one a museum of stone artifacts, and another an Inca ruin, this time on a flat area and not clinging to a mountain. I am not really a tour guide person but I tried to make the best of it; it’s very convenient to travel to sites this way. Was fascinated by the guide’s account of a ruin we saw from the highway and how it was the Incan east gateway to Cusco, and that there were other gateway ruins on the south, west and north. Investigating when I got home, found out this is completely false, there are no 4 gateways, and the ruin we saw was an Incan irrigation project. I find this happens a lot with guides, some elaborate info provided is totally false, or a speculative theory is presented as dramatic fact.

Was on the fast track in Puno, just a day to see Lake Titicaca so booked a tour in advance. Nice hotel here, Tierra Viva, about $80. The travel agent couldn’t get the credit card payment to work online , so agreed to meet me at my hotel the evening of our arrival to pay the night before. Coordinating via WIFI and Whatsapp I met her in our hotel figuring I could pay by card. She insisted on US dollars, I looked at her and paid, $54, later told my wife I am sure I was just scammed by a woman named Maria, but 7 am the next morning there she is in the lobby waiting to guide us to the shuttle.

Tour boats on Lake Titicaca are a big business and we just did the basic day tour. 1 floating island with presentations by the locals and repeated sales pitches to buy stuff, again I don’t like tours partly for this reason. But we learned a lot about the construction with reeds and how people live on these temporary floating islands. Some went for a reed boat trip (think Kon-Tiki) but we passed. Later we went to a solid island with a very pleasant walk up and over the ridge with great lake views. It was all so touristy but I can’t think of another way to get out on the lake easily. Set lunch was all people from the boats but pretty nice really.

Colca Canyon (2 nights): Next up was Colca Canyon, claiming to be the deepest canyon in the world (although it’s more like a gorge) and to see the famous Andean condors that live there. Again we did a tour shuttle arranged by the lodge, just tourists with set stops, 2 days of transportation with guide and then 1 day at the lodge just hiking around. First day we saw flamingos in a lake, transited a dry remote land on an earth road for a couple hours avoiding road construction, saw lots of alpacas and vicunas in this remote area. Went up to 16,000 ft (!) were there was a stop on the highway to get a panorama of volcanoes, all the way around the horizon, one of them sending up a lot of smoke. Drove down into Chivay and changed to a taxi to the lodge, Killawasi, very nice a bit of a splurge. We continue to be over 11,000 ft, now for 9 days straight. Second day we took it easy, swam in the pool, and took an afternoon guided hike (included) which was very scenic and had a lot of ruins. Guide’s English had a peculiar East Enders accent, he claims he got it from watching movies (?). Last day we are shuttled to the national park to see the condors. We had a great guide who knew which lookout has the most condors and we saw them one after the other pretty much just our group at the lookout, sometimes 5 at once, which was amazing since there are only 70 left. The main lookout was packed and they saw few condors there. Continued on to Arequipa and the end of the tour.

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Part Six:

Arequipa (2 nights) AirBnB was a hotel but room did not meet wife’s standards so we paid for a nicer room, which was worth it. Arequipa did not really meet expectations, but the views of the 5 or so snow topped volcanoes was great, the climate is great, and we are finally back under 8,000 ft so can get our breath. We toured the famous monastery, St Catalina, it’s just huge and amazing, only recently opened to the public. It has very old parts, and the rooms have original furnishings. Loved the grilled reception area where relatives could talk to but not see the residents. This is a highlight of the country. Walked around a bit the next morning then the bus to Nasca for the lines, got to the station by Uber, $2.

Restaurant recommendation:
Il Caffè Della Nonna

Nasca (1 night): Arrived by deluxe bus (Cruz del Sur) from Arequipa, 160 degree recline with privacy curtains, snacks and a water bottle, nicer transport than any tourist bus so far. Left about noon, pretty drive along the Pacific before sunset, almost like Big Sur, arrived 10 pm Nasca, walked to another AirBnB that’s really a guesthouse, nice enough, only $25. Again pressed for time, just booked a guide/driver from the guesthouse so we were up and ready at 8 am to see the lines. Decided to have a thorough ground tour with tower viewing over taking one of the overflights, wife concerned about motion sickness (she would have barfed for sure). I was hesitant to skip the flight but the tower gets high enough to see 3 geoglyphs well, then there are 2 others that are made to be seen from the ground anyway, so not the usual Nasca Lines experience but still very rewarding. I suspect the lines are more mystical from the air, because at ground level they seemed easily made. Guide was pretty knowledgeable and had good English. It’s a long way in and out of Nasca for the lines but I thought it was worth it. Afternoon deluxe bus to Lima (Cruz del Sur), arrived again about 10 pm, quite near the Holiday Inn Express so just stayed there again.

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Part Seven

Amazon (4 nights): Early flight to Iquitos (Taxidatum again, to airport, always on time if not a little early). Back to the chaos of domestic Lima airport, all but a few of the LATAM flights leave from the same doors that open to buses that go to stands out on the tarmac. It’s not Peru at it’s best. Arrive to the tropics, hot, humid and noisy, feels like India or Indonesia with the loud chaotic traffic. Stayed at an old rubber baron house turned into a hotel, huge on the character front, very high ceilings, all original wood doors and tiles, overlooked the Amazon. Casa Morey, $60. Toured a nice river boat museum. Really hot.

Next day went on the real splurge of the trip, Explorama Lodge, all inclusive but close to $200/person/night. Amazonia is cheaper in Puerto Maldonado but I wanted to see the Amazon and it starts with the joining of 2 rivers near Iquitos. Also met a Singaporean woman who went to a lodge near Puerto Maldonado and saw no animals! Shuttle pick up at hotel and bused to boat. Iquitos is a big place, but still it’s only accessible by boat or plane. We are the only guests at the far rustic lodge, so we get our own boat and guide. It’s about 90 minutes by speedboat on the Amazon. Despite a drought and record low levels, it’s still an impressive river. At about the same distance from the sea the Mississippi has only about 1/5 this amount of volume, but the Mississippi gradient is 3 times steeper so faster flow there.

We split our time between this far lodge without overnight power (no night fan, day highs of 94 F) and the closer one with tour groups and AC, I loved the first one but not so much my wife. At Explorama Lodge (without AC) we had our own chef and he made great meals, all the staff was for us and our stay, to help carry things or get things for us. The rooms had screen walls and the insect/animal racket all night was quite something, almost deafening.

We had a personal guide 24 hours for both lodges. Night hikes, dawn hikes, jungle hikes, boat rides—whatever we wanted. The guide was amazing with birds, knew them all and pointed them all out, we saw dozens of species. I was glad to have packed binoculars which were greatly used (warm clothing packed was never used, however, half the suitcase). Also spotted 3 monkey species, and snakes, caimans, pink dolphins, a capybara. We got our money’s worth of animal sightings, which was the point of splurging. The AC lodge, Ceiba Tops, was mostly tour groups, there was a medical volunteer team, then a few tables set up for the independent folks. I missed the chef prepared food at Explorama, this was a buffet. FWIW: most of the tours were Chinese groups.

Ultimately only saw one mosquito the whole time and neither of us had a bite.

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Part Eight:

Lima (3 nights): The Explorama people got us all the way back to the Iquitos airport for a late flight, almost an hour to drive across Iquitos, front seats again on plane, Taxidatum waiting for us again at Lima airport (there with name on sign, on time), and this time whisked off to an AirBnB in a high rise condo in the Miraflores district, where most of the tourists stay (San Isidro is the commercial downtown area of Lima, so business clientele). The first day we explored the pre-Incan ruin right in town, Huaca Pucllana, 5 blocks walk, impressive, comes with tour. Walked around Miraflores, it’s nice but lacks character. Our last day we took an Uber to the old part of Lima, very impressive buildings facing an enormous square. Wished there was a tour book that had a walking map with opening times on it, I tried my best but mostly the walking map I came up with was a miss. Many sites still closed from covid or closed because of renovations, the main mansion required reservations and sold out before I looked, couldn’t get in the cathedral (I think it was closed for the day), also the famous Merced church only open mornings. Worth it but less than it could have been. Wondered how we would get an Uber back to the condo without cellular service, but I checked and poof there was free WIFI from somewhere, so ordered it. Then noticed that by chance we were standing next to a McDonalds, hence the free WIFI. Both Ubers about $5.

Restaurant recommendation (Miraflores):
Cevichería Barra Maretazo

6:30 am flight back home so ordered (you guessed it) Taxidatum for 4 am pickup, right on time and we get to the airport without traffic in barely 15 minutes. A quirk of the Lima airport is that liquids are allowed through security, but US bound passengers get a second bag check for liquids at boarding. So there were a few hapless Americans who tossed their water before the main security, bought a new bottle after security, then had to toss that one boarding their flight, a double water bottle forfeit experience.

Final thoughts:

Peru is pretty easy for independent travel, and a person can dial into transit tours or drivers for the day as needed making some more complicated visits nearly free of stress. Planning still takes a lot of time, I probably put in 100 hours in planning. The food is really good, and safety isn’t much of a concern (but I didn’t take public transit anywhere).

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Also: A lot of the guidebook series are going down the toilet, not enough good information included, seems everyone now is going to TripAdvisor for free info and forgoing buying guidebooks. It makes the Rick Steves operation even more impressive to me, that they can keep good guidebooks coming and getting people to buy them. A Rick Steves style book for Peru with good maps and walking tours is badly needed, nothing out there I saw worth buying.

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Enjoyed your report. Would love to visit Machu Picchu but fear we've missed out and now it's too popular and crowded.

A lot of the guidebook series are going down the toilet, not enough
good information included, seems everyone now is going to TripAdvisor
for free info and foregoing buying guidebooks.

There was a post a week ago about a travel writer that skips out on the travel part of the job, so I question the online content now as well. You're right, thank goodness for RS and his dedication to reliable content. It would be great if he or someone else could carry on with that format in other parts of the world.

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5625 posts

I am reading every line and getting so much good information from your trip report before my July trip to Peru. Thank you so much for taking the time to write this up with so many useful details and interesting descriptions.

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No cellular service during trip.

Did you opt not to have cell service during your trip or did your expected cell service not work?

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2897 posts

Great report, very interesting -- friends of ours didn't click with Cuzco or Lima so it's cheering to get your perspective

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6877 posts

Great report, thank you for the very useful info on a trip we have on our list but also that we have done little work on actually planning. I'm still going through this, will have some follow-up questions as I get through it all, but wanted to get my thanks in early.

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Did you opt not to have cell service during your trip or did your expected cell service not work?

We opted out, it was either $100 or $10/day and didn’t think it was worth it.

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We opted out, it was either $100 or $10/day and didn’t think it was worth it.

Ah, Verizon. I don't blame you. Thanks for the info.

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2118 posts

Thanks for sharing an excellent and comprehensive trip report! And thanks for including prices, I mean, that’s a big issue for us in planning. Continued safe travel wishes

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Adding a few things:

LATAM: We usually bought the highest ticket because it made sense financially. Say the cheapest economy is $50 but it does not include a checked bag or seat selection. By the time those are added in the cost exceeds the highest ticket. Also we ended up getting a refund for one flight because the price dropped and the lowest price tickets are not refundable. And the Delta miles for the highest class (premium economy) given is worth about $12, the lesser classes it's really peanuts. Checking a bag was really required due to the hiking poles and hiking boots.